Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold fob seal, the surfaces ornately decorated in a repousse pattern of flowers and foliage. Fobs in this design are more typically English than American. It is very generously sized to make an impression when being worn. The citrine plaque is engraved with the monogram “WKV”, so we’ll just assume that was for William K Vanderbilt (LOL!) The ring is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1840
• Dimensions: 1” x 7/8” x 1-1/2” (excluding ring)
• Weight: 19.5 grams

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’épargne enameling in scrolling floral pattern. The delicate enamel design is further accented with a stippled background that adds a sense of depth.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no exterior dents. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 6-1/8” interior circumference. Weight: 9.5 gr.

A stunning Belle Epoque brooch in the form of a fern worked in silver-topped 18K gold and set with 89 rose cut diamonds. The curving shape and the delicacy of each individual diamond-set leaf gives the piece a lightness that is very attractive for wear with today's clothing styles. The pin could also easily be converted to a pendant by attaching a gold chain at either end. In the 19th language of flowers, fern conveyed the sentiment of "sincerity." The back is stamped with French 18K marks.

France, circa 1870

Excellent condition

1-3/8" x 2-7/16"

9.9 grams

Approximate total diamond weight: 1.33 carats

A wonderful Victorian equestrian pin in the form of a horseshoe nail enhanced with a cluster of small natural pearls, sapphires, and rubies. Nails were a popular motif in Victorian jewelry, and the red, white, and blue color scheme had momentary popularity around the time of the American centennial in 1876. This piece is a pin, but can easily be worn as a pendant suspended from a chain without alteration. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1876
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 2-1/8” long
• Weight: 5.6 grams

An intricately designed 14K yellow gold chain comprised of a double row of reeded oval links enhanced at regular intervals with engraved acanthus leaf plaques. The chain is from the late Georgian or early Victorian period, and is completely handmade. The clasp is a large bolt, reeded to match the links. The individual links are open enough that the chain could be used to hang charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 20-1/2" long; 7/16" wide
• Weight: 28.1 grams

An outstanding 18K gold shield-form perfume locket ("vinaigrette"), opening to reveal two compartments separated by a hinged crystal cover. The front cover is worked in an ornate pierced and engraved design in the Persian taste. The tiny pierced openings are concealed within the design and are intended to permit the escape of scent from a tiny perfume-soaked sponge that can be wedged inside the front cover. Vinaigrettes of this sort were used by ladies to ward off the unpleasant odors of the streets. The back cover is more simply decorated in a stippled pattern that vaguely suggests fleurs-de-lys. When opened, the back side can accommodate a portrait. The two halves are separated by a thick crystal cover with beveled edges set in gold. The locket hangs from a scrolled bail ornament. The gold has a slightly rosy tint. The inside edges are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: very good, sharp detail; the back cover has a few small dings visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 15/16” (40 x 23 mm)
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A wonderful 18K yellow gold and Essex crystal stick pin dating from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. The head features a reverse-carved crystal decorated with a scene of a horse and rider jumping over a stone wall in a grassy field. The coloring is very finely done in pale shades. Essex crystals—especially those with sporting themes—were very popular in England and the United States. Occasionally, they were made in France, as well. French examples can often be identified by the use of a gold background under the crystal instead of the mother-of-pearl more frequently used in the US and England. The back of the gold mounting is stamped with the “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold and also with an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no damage or wear to the crystal. Size: overall length, 2-15/16”; head, 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A rare Victorian 14K yellow gold stick pin featuring a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a Chihuahua. Various dog breeds were depicted in Essex crystals, but this is the only piece we’ve seen with a dog that looks like a Chihuahua. The round setting, with its simple but finely crafted rope-twist border highlights the carved crystal. The colors are strong. The background appears to be silvered instead of the more usual mother-of-pearl. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: some oxidation to painted details. Size: head, 13/16” diameter; overall length, 2-3/4”. Weight: 6.75 grams.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.

Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".

Finger Size: 7 1/4.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

A lovely pair of Victorian earrings worked in 14K yellow, rose and green gold depicting a mother bird watching over her nest of three tiny eggs. The bird is nicely three-dimensional for added interest. The design is simply finished with a zigzag border. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, earwires are replacements
• Dimensions: 5/8” diameter (excluding wires)
• Weight: 5.2 grams

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A nice quality and heavy 18K gold watch key enhanced with black enamel and seed pearls suspending a pair of foxtail chain tassels and a dog clip clasp. This was originally the cross bar and fob attachments for a Victorian watch chain. With the entire assembly attached to a necklace using the existing jump ring, the key and and tassels would make stunning "charms" and another charm of your choice could be attached to the dog clip. This last charm could be changed up depending on your mood! Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: watch key, 1 1/2" long; longer tassel, 1 11/16"
• Weight: 7.9 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A fine Victorian locket in 10K yellow gold, the front face featuring an enameled bouquet of white lilies against a striking turquoise enameled background. In Victorian flower symbology, the white lily represented sweetness or purity. The surrounding areas of gold are ornately engraved in a swirly design that is repeated on the back cover around a shield-shaped reserve. The interior retains the original frame and glass cover. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca 1880

Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no monogram or removal

Dimensions: 1" x 1-3/16"

Weight: 10.5 grams.