Catalog (2449)

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks from the era of Napoleon III. The navette-shaped faces are simply decorated with interlaced swirls. The faces are joined by chains. The cufflinks are stamped with French "tete de cheval" hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4" x 5/16". Weight: 6.0 gr.

An exceptionally fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces hand-pierced with an ornate depiction of a mythological griffin. The workmanship is superbly done with heavy chased detail throughout. The surfaces show a mix of polished and semi-matte finishes. The backs have an ingenious folding mechanism that clasps the cuff without being too obvious. The clasps are marked with 19th century French patents, as well as hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Weight: 14.9 gr.

An exceptionally fine and very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces cast and hand-pierced in an ornate design of a mythological griffin. More properly, the creature is a Basilisk with the body of a serpent and the head and wings of an eagle. Deatailed scales and feathers are engraved for added interest. The back faces are worked in a laurel pattern. The quality of workmanship is so superb that even the back side of each face is entirely engraved to match the front. The cufflinks are stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimensions: front faces, 11/16 x 5/8 in. Weight: 10.4 gr.

A pretty 18Kyellow gold pin in the shape of a salamander from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. Animal brooches were very popular in the mid-19th century, and reptiles were especially favored. The salamander has a long history in France, and was the personal symbol of King François whose rule began in the late 15th century. This example is beautifully engraved with delicate scales, claws, and eyes. The back is set with a line of alternating seed pearls and Persian turquoise cabochons. The head is set with a larger turquoise. The original clasp is marked with the “tête de cheval” hallmark used only outside Paris between 1838 and 1919.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/16” long. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with Persian turquoise cabochons. The stones are nicely matched for color. The gold surface is stippled and engraved in a rayed pattern with a foliate border. The engraving on the back takes design elements from the front. The interior has a glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The original bail, also engraved and set with a turquoise cabochon, is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A lovely 18K gold locket, the front cover bezel-set with rhodolite garnets. The garnets have very fine color with bright shots of violet. The gold surface is stippled. The back cover is ornately engraved in a checkerboard pattern. The interior has a hinged glass cover. The locket is deep enough that it was likely intended to contain both a portrait and a keepsake of some sort. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” (excluding the jump ring)
• Total Gemstone Weight: 3.71 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

An outstanding pair of Napoleon III 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved rhodolite garnets centering small collet-set natural pearls. The garnets have a strong purplish color and excellent clarity. The edge of each face is accented with scalloped ropework border. The faces are joined by figure-8 connectors. Stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 6.49 grams.

A lovely mid-19th century locket worked in 18K yellow gold set with rubies and natural seed pearls. The setting is enhanced with geometric appliques, engine-turned engraving, rope twists, and a beautifully fashioned bow concealing the bail. The rubies have very good color and are unheated. The locket retains its original reeded jump ring, as well. The back is decorated with engine-turned engraving. The interior retains the original gold frame and glass cover. Faintly marked with French 18K gold marks and a maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1” x 2-1/16” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .21 carat
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A very attractive pair of Napoleon III 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the canted square faces studded with round mixed-cut rubies and old mine cut diamonds. The rubies are in the finest color-range, with strongly saturated, very slightly purplish-red hue. The nature of the inclusions in the stones suggests they are Burmese in origin. The diamonds are of similarly fine quality. The gold surface has a very subtle texturizing treatment that suggests moiré silk. The connectors are marked with a variety of French 18K hallmarks, including that of the guarantee office in Nancy and the “tete de Mercure” mark used 1840-1879.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 10.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .128 ct; diamond, .112 ct.

A very fine 12-piece set of gilt silver and mother of pearl dessert, fruit or cheese knives presented in their original fitted box. The tapered mother of pearl handles are tipped with silver finials and ferules decorated in a Louis XVI-style ribbon and reed motif. Most similar sets have plated blades, but these are silver. The silver is gilt, a process that is decorative, but also serves to prevent corrosion from the salts in cheeses which were often served in France as a dessert course. The gilding has faded to a very nice, light lemony color. The interior lid of the velvet- and silk-lined box is marked by the maker, “J. Fayard/Fabricant Orfèvre Joaillier/St Etienne”.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: knives are excellent, no dings, no cracks, normal fading of the gilding; the box shows considerable wear and has a slightly warped lid. Size: 7-1/2” long.

14K gold ring featuring a detailed portrait of a Native American wearing a feathered headdress. The portrait is surrounded by a twisted rope border. Originally an Edwardian bar pin, the ring has been fashioned with the original pin's scrolled ends connecting to the medallion. The reverse is marked "585 Pr FSH" for 14K gold.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca 1900.
• Dimensions: crown, 13/16" diamter.
• Finger Size: 6-1/2.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail.
• Weight: 5.9 grams.

A fine pair of modernist silver cufflinks by master Danish designer Niels Erik From. The large concave round faces are each set with a round amber cabochon in a dark reddish-orange color approaching that of cherry amber. The cabochons are set at the edges to create a very modern, assymetrical look. From moved away from traditional Scandinavian design in the 1960’s with very bold, angular designs such as this. The connectors are marked “Sterling/Denmark/N.E. From/925S”.

Origin: Nakskov, Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, polished. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A nice example of an antique scrambled glass paperweight by the New England Glass Company. The set-up contains a colorful variety of complex canes, filigree and twists in a nicely compact grouping. There are least three complex canes with white eagle silhouettes against a field of dark purple. There are no annealing problems and few bubbles in the set-up. The glass of the dome has good color and clarity. The bottom is concave with a basal ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, a fairly light ½-in scratch to the dome, no dings. Dimensions: diameter, 2-7/8 in; height, 1-13/16 in.

A stunning cut double-overlay white/cranberry/clear cologne bottle, mostly likely by the New England Glass Company. The broad base is slightly footed and decorated with opaque white casing cut in a classic foral vine pattern to a transparent rose-cranberry base. The panel-cut tapered neck is enhanced with a faceted applied ring. The open-top tulip-form stopper has a long knopped neck and white/cranberry panel cutting on the petals. The concave base is polished.

Origin: America, 1850-70. Condition: a 1/16" flake on an upper edge of the stopper visible on careful examination in raking light. Dimensions: 3-3/4" wide; 6-1/2" high.

A delightful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold circle pin, the center set with an enameled trillium blossom. The petals are beautifully enameled in translucent shades of ivory and green. The gold surface below the enamel is intricately engraved. The blossom is centered by a pale coral bead. The periphery of the circle brooch is set with small seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked 14K and bearing the hallmark for Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, the swivel bale has been removed but can be replaced with no solder work necessary. Size: 31/32" diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

Handsome hexagonal faceted glass paperweight featuring a detailed frost intaglio of a lion pressed into the base. The New England Glass Company made several different types of intaglio paperweights, and this piece is possibly an example of the company's work.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, no chips, normal wear to base. Size: 2-7/8" diameter; 1-3/16" high.

A very good fruit bouquet paperweight by the New England Glass Company. Four pears alternate with cherries and foliage around a central pear. The lampwork fruit is particularly nice in this weight. The bouquet is presented against a spiraling double latticinio basket. The dome is high and offers nice magnification. The crystal is a bit sugary, as is typical of many NEGC weights. The concave base has a wide basal ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, absolutely minimal surface wear to the dome. Size: 2-1/2" diameter; 2-1/8" tall.