Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold enameled flower pin with a full-blown blossom centering a seed pearl and a half-opened blossom. The petals are decorated in soft shades of ivory, green and rose iridescent translucent enamels. Delicate floral pins of this kind were popular gifts for new brides in the Victorian and Edwardian eras due to the sentimental meanings of various flowers in the Victorian flower language. The back is hallmarked by Whiteside & Blank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 11/16"
• Weight: 3.4 grams.

A delicate 14K yellow gold bracelet by Krementz fashioned as a chain of pansy blossoms. Each pansy is centered with a small baroque pearl. Alternating links are in a foliate style and are set with round brilliant cut amethysts. Pansies held special meaning in the Victorian period as flowers of remembrance. The use of purple and white gems mimics the flower’s most classic coloring. The cleverly concealed clasp is marked with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/16” wide, overall length, 7”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.06 cts.

An outstanding American Art Nouveau pansy brooch/pendant in a large size, enameled with translucent enamels in shades of royal blue, cream, yellow and maroon. The flower is centered with a .20-carat old European cut diamond of H color, SI2 clarity. The pansy is very nicely shaped, with deeply rippling petals that beautifully enhance the enameling. The back is stamped “14K” and has an unidentified maker’s mark “DeEs”og. The piece can be worn as either a brooch or pendant.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: enamel has one small nick at the bottom left edge (less visible than in the photo) and light surface scratches; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”.
• Weight: 11.8 grams.
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

Very nicely detailed 14K yellow gold Victorian stickpin in the form of a maple leaf set with 5 seed pearls. The back is marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/4" long.

A pretty Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold locket by Elias Rees & Son, depicting a young woman surrounded by a bower of flowers. The back cover bears a period monogram, nicely worked in ornate Art Nouveau script. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers on both sides and is hallmarked by Rees.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; nice detail. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 5.8 gr.

An elegant large-scale 18K gold hinged bangle bracelet with repousse floral decoration by Charles Armsheimer & Son. The design is so expertly worked that the hinge is nearly invisible when the bracelet is being worn. Armsheimer’s workshop was located on Maiden Lane, the heart of New York’s jewelry industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “18K” and also has the maker’s mark for Charles Armsheimer & Son.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no dings or dents
• Dimensions: width, 3/8”; inner circumference 6-7/8”
• Weight: 24.1 grams

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

An unusually fine and large 14K yellow gold sunburst brooch set with 105 natural seed pearls surrounded a .33 carat old European cut diamond (graded I, VS2). The pearls have very fine color and lustre. The piece retains its original folding pendant bail and pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. Sun-themed jewels were meant to symbolize “life-giving force” or “divine light,” and were often set with white stones such as pearls or diamonds to suggest “purity.” Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.6 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

An elegant Edwardian bracelet worked in fancy curly-cued gold links, each with a slash of platinum-set rose cut diamonds for a little added sparkle. A collet-set ruby appears between each of the links. The rubies have nice color and are unheated. The links are formed loosely, so the bracelet has nice movement when being worn. The tongue of the concealed clasp is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-3/4”; width, 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.2 carats; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 14.5 grams

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

Elegant Edwardian 14K gold brooch in the form of a floral bouquet. The flower petals are enameled in soft iridescent silver and then “jeweled” with a thick application of translucent amethyst enamel. This unusual treatment creates a feeling of depth in the flowers. Each blossom is centered with a natural pearl. The leaves look very much like water lilies foliage and are beautifully decorated with translucent green enamel fading to yellow at the tips. The back retains the original clasp and pinstem marked “14K” and hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 4.5 grams.

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

A large and extremely rare 18K gold scenic locket depicting a detailed image of four passengers in an early automobile waving as an Antoinette monoplane with two passengers flies by. The car's headlights are set with rose cut diamonds. The detailed scene includes a flock of birds dispersed by the airplane, a plume of exhaust smoke behind the car, and another automobile with passengers and a village in the distant background. A female passenger leans from the side of the car, waving her handkerchief at the passing airplane. The bottom edge bears a signature, likely that of Holy Frères, partly hidden by the applied scalloped border. The interior retains the two original photo frames. The back cover is engraved with an ornate three-letter monogram and the date 7-12-1915 (December 7 in the European dating system). The bail is stamped for 18K.

• Origin: France or Switzerland, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 1 9/32" diameter
• Condition: excellent; a pinpoint ding to the back cover
• Weight: 8.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond eight: .03 carat

An exquisite Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a peacock. The bird is worked in stunningly applied translucent enamels in shades of rose, blue, green, yellow, black and violet. The curling tail feathers are set with seed pearls and body is surrounded by an assymetrical frame set with seed pearls and suspending a small old European cut diamond and an oval brilliant-cut peridot. This is one of the very finest enameled bird brooches we’ve seen. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .03 carat; peridot, .59 carat.

An extraordinarily fine and rare Art Nouveau sporting brooch featuring an enameled fox head superimposed over a horseshoe, a riding crop and a whip. The horseshoe is set with old mine cut diamonds simulating the nails. The fox's eyes are set with rubies. The pin is beautifully enameled in lifelike colors. The fox's mouth is open to show fierce jagged gold teeth. An identical brooch was featured in the "Masterpieces of American Jewelry" exhibition held in 2005 at the Museum of American Folk Art in New York. It is also published in the exhibition book by the same name. The pin in unmarked, but is a known Alling Bros. design.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 15/16" x 1-15/16"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .05 carat; diamond, .10 carat

A lovely, delicate 10K white gold filigree ring set with a buff-cut amethyst. Buff-cut stones are somewhat uncommon with their smooth domed tops and faceted bottoms, but were popular in the Edwardian era. The shank is marked "10K."

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, minute surface wear to stone visible under 10x magnification; sharp details on setting. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/8". Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.0 cts.

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

A lovely carved coral cameo of a maiden in an elegant 14K yellow gold surround set with small pearls. The cameo is deeply carved and has nicely even color. The back retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and has the maker's mark for Erlich & Sinnock, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 25/32" x 15/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 6.0 gr.

An elegant 14K yellow gold gold bracelet constructed with modified gatelinks, each enhanced with engraved details. The five center links are set with round sapphires. The sapphires have intense coloring and excellent clarity. The interior is stamped "14K" and also has Crane & Theurer's maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide; 7-1/4" long
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

A spectacular 14K gold horsehoe brooch updated as an elegant pendant necklace. The sapphires are very fine quality with bright violet-blue color ad eye-clean clarity. There is no evidence of heat treatment. The sapphires alternate with pearls of similarly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K. When turned points up, horseshoes collect and capture good luck!

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-5/8" x 1-7/16"; length, 21-1/4"
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.31 carats
• Weight: 9.4 grams.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

A beautifully detailed 18K gold tombstone-shaped pendant dedicated to St. George. The front shows George on horseback killing the dragon with his spear. The sun is depicted in the background with a glowing red ruby cabochon. The reverse depicts a fishing boat carrying Jesus and several disciples across the stormy Sea of Galilee, with the Latin motto “In Tempestate Securitas” (“safety in the storm”). St. George medallions do not always include the ship imagery, but when it’s there, the piece was intended to protect against the perils at sea. Generally, St. George is the patron saint of knights, soldiers, scouts, fencers, and archers, but he apparently also had a knack with the plague, leprosy, and venomous snakes.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-1/16” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 14.4 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .05 carat.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

A sophisticated Edwardian ring featuring a rectangular cabochon of moss agate nestled in a 14K yellow gold filigree mounting. The quality of the piercing is superb. The moss agate is nicely transparent with intense deep green wisps that seem to float in the stone. Moss agate is a rather unusual gemstone selection for this style of setting, but the stone seems to have been a favorite of the designers at Larter, as we have seen several fine examples of its use in unexpected ways. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K" and has Larter's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Dimensions: 17/32" wide at crown, tapering to 1/16" at back of shank
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamond in an openwork mounting. The diamond crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 3/8" (9x9mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .11 ct.

An elegant 18K gold and platinum marquise ring set with a central row of oval sapphires surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The sapphires have nicely saturated coloring, and the diamonds have good brilliance. The design is finished with a pierced gallery along the edges. Marquise rings were very fashionable in the Edwardian period and have a very elegant appearance on the hand. Today, they are among the most desirable shapes for engagement rings. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Crown Dimensions: 15/16” x 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .70 carat; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 3.5 grams

A lovely small locked in the form of a four-leaf clover worked in 18K yellow gold. One petal is set with a round ruby. Each of the leaves is shaped in an exaggerated heart form, perhaps to suggest the beloved contents of the interior. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers, as well as photos of the original owner’s young husband and little girl in period clothing. The locket and jump ring are both stamped with French gold marks. Interestingly, the back of the jump ring is engraved “2016,” perhaps as a reference to when the locket was passed along to another generation.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 7.1 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .14 carat.