Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's mines in Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This bracelet has strong, saturated colors in autumnal hues. This design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets; the bracelet is by far the most difficult piece to find. This bracelet is marked for 18K and is also marked with one of Stern's early hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: all excellent except one dome that has a ding around one of the stones (not particularly visible unless you're really looking for it). Dimensions: 27/32" wide; 7-1/2" long. Weight: 23.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.34 carats.

A striking 1950s extra-large bracelet charm by Van Cleef & Arpels. The charm is a fully-functional roulette wheel studded along the edge with collet-set round cut sapphires and emeralds. Under crystal dome, a tiny ruby bead serves as the marble. The moveable handle spins the dial, causing the ruby to skip along until if falls into one of the depressions on the wheel. Instead of numbers, however, the wheel is engraved “Je t’aime” (I love you…)/”Un Peu” (…a little)/”Beacoup” (…a lot)/”Passion” (…passionately)/”A La Folie” (…crazily)/”Pas Du Tout” (…not at all). The gemstones, as would be expected, are of the finest quality. A plain roulette wheel charm, without gemstones and engraved only with numbers, appears in a 1955 VCA print advertisement. The back is marked “Van Cleef et Arpels”, “Made In France” and has the serial number “16V507”. The maker’s mark appears on the bale. This piece can be worn on a heavy bracelet, but would be even more spectacular worn as a necklace.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/16” diameter. Weight: 22.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; emerald, .35 ct; ruby, .1 ct.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A large 18K yellow gold Sputnik pendant by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, garnets, green tourmalines, and most unusually, a very rare blue indicolite tourmaline and an even rarer neon green tourmaline with paraiba-like coloring. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to showcase the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian ines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a different appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. This pendant has very strong jewel tones. The back retains the original pinstem for wear as a brooch and the original folding bail for use as a pendant. The back is stamped with Stern's older hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.65 carats
• Weight: 6.6 grams

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features a "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond in the center and spiraling outward in a clockwise direction, the first letters of each gemstone's name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spell "DEAREST." The tree is enclosed in a open twist border, in turn surrounded by a broad pleated border. "Tree of Life" charms were usually set with the birthstones of children or grandchildren, so the acrostic version is quite uncommon. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co., 14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .64 carat
• Weight: 13.8 grams.

A very good example of a mid-20th century pearl and jade cluster ring by Ming's of Honolulu. Wook Moon opened his shop in 1940 and specialized in creating interesting designs that combined traditional Hawaiian motifs and gems popular in the South Pacific and Asian communities. This cluster ring features are green, black, white, yellow and red jade spheres nestled among ivory-colored pearls. The jade has good translucency and the pearls have very attractive luster, smooth surfaces and distinct gold overtones. Most rings by Ming's had gold leaves interspersed among the gems, but this example is particularly attractive because there are no leaves--just 22 colored spheres tightly packed into a very large cluster. The back of the ring is constructed with a double shank to provide more stability. The setting is entirely handmade and is stamped "Ming's" and "14K".

Origin: Hawaii, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4 x 1-1/8". Weight: 14.7 grams.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone autumnal colors. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A large pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed, if desired. Marked with an older Stern hallmark.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1955.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.
• Weight: 12.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.11 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

A fine example of some of the best enameled silver produced by David-Andersen in the late 1950s. This brooch represents "Spring" from the "Four Seasons" line designed for David-Andersen by Thorbjorn Lie-Jorgensen in the late 1950s. The set of designs represent an abstract aerial views of the same landscape in each of the four seasons. "Spring" is worked in lush shades of turquoise, teal blue, gold and brown. The back, with the original patina, retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, and is marked "D-A", "925S" and "Norway-Sterling".

Origin: Norway, ca. 1959. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-5/16". Weight: 16.25 grams.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated mid-tone colors throughout. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik style ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite lanched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance that depends on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This example tends toward the pastel side with a fairly large number of aquamarines and lighter-toned amethysts. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, one amethyst has a small chip on the surface only visible upon careful examination with a 10x loupe. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome diameter, 19 mm (3/4 in). Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.90 cts.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold dachshund angel pin by famed Beverly Hills jewelry designer, William Ruser. The dog, shown sitting up in a begging position, is beautifully detailed. His eyes are set with tiny rubies and he wears a halo of seed pearls. The dog-angel’s wings are made from natural freshwater pearls, as are the clouds on which he floats. The back is signed and is marked “14K”.

Ruser, the personal jeweler to Hollywood’s elite such as Loretta Young and Joan Crawford, created a number of pieces featuring dogs, but they are almost always poodles. Sometimes, the animals are shown as angels. These probably were created to order to memorialize favorite pets. Joan Crawford often wore a set of poodle pins. Ruser remained one of Beverly Hills’ most exclusive jewelers until the late 1960s when he sold his Rodeo Drive boutique to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 1-7/16”. Weight: 13.7 gr.

A lovely vintage 14K yellow gold heart pendant pave-set with 62 round brilliant rubies by Tiffany & Co. The heart is slightly domed and shimmers in vibrant red. The workmanship is simply outstanding. The back has a folding bail and a pinstem so the piece can be worn as a pin or suspended on a chain. Marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 6.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.5 carats.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Sern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and peridots. The spheres are suspended from a bar of three larger gemstones. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It later came to be called “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. Most Sputnik earrings are clips. This is only the second pair of Sputnik drop earrings we have seen in twenty years. The earrings originally had lever backs which is where the Stern mark would have been. At some point, this pair was changed to a post and clutch system. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and to be made by Stern.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” long; 5/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.72 carats
• Weight: 6.9 grams

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold Sputnik bracelet by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. The Sputnik line was made in rings, earrings, pendants, charms, brooches and rarest of all, bracelets. The clasp is marked for 18K and has Stern's older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: length, 7-3/4"; width, 15/16". Weight: 28.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 19.0 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set iwth round citrines, amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It last came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite of launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank has a worn hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 1" diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.57 cts.

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

A fabulous pair of 18K yellow gold Sputnik DANGLE earrings by H Stern. The spheres are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridots, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are the only examples of dangle Sputniks we have ever seen. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: spheres, 19/32" (16mm) diameter; length, 1-5/8" (44mm)
• Weight: 6.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.2 carats

A delightfully fun 14K yellow gold ring featuring a perky bunny rabbit standing on his hind legs. The ring was created from a vintage lapel pin with the addition of a 14K gold shank. The back of the rabbit is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: rabbit, 7/8" x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A stunning pair of vintage 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips set with diamonds by Cartier. The clips are worked in heavily textured gold that resembles a flame motif that ascends the earlobe when being worn. The recessed parts of the texture are unpolished, creating a strong contrast with the remaining highly-polished surfaces. Each clip features a irregularly shaped cluster of nine platinum-set round brilliant diamonds, graded as E-VVS2. These earrings are a lovely example of Cartier's prevailing style in the early 1960s. The gold shortages that followed World War II were in the past, so jewelry could take on a heavier look; and there was a pronounced fondness for chunkier, daytime jewelry that reflected the modern woman. It was important, however, that the jewelry could be worn in the evening as well. The backs are signed "Cartier France" and bear all the appropriate marks for 18K gold. The clips are original and never had posts, but posts could be added without disturbing any of the signatures or markings.

Origin: France, ca. 1962. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 carat.

Elegant vintage 14K yellow gold brooch set with eight beautiful Mikimoto pearls. The pearls are, of course, of the very finest quality. They have bright white body color with silver overtones. The surfaces are very smooth and the nacre thick. The pearls range in size from 5 to 7.5 mm. The back of the pin is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “K14”.

Origin: Japan, circa 1950s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.0 grams.

An outstanding Venetian Etruscan Revival 18K yellow gold fob charm in the form of a crown. The bottom of the charm is set with a 9-carat oval brilliant amethyst of nice color. The sides of the charm are set with small round glass gemstones imitating small amethysts. The upper scrolls of the crown enclose a round cultured pearl. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 1-1/4” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.04 cts.

A fine and large pair of 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik earrings by H Stern. This classic modernist design features goldn domes studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending upon the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored gemstones from Stern’s Brazil mines, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its spiky resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The clips are marked with an older Stern hallmark. The earrings have their original clips and never had posts. Posts could easily be added. Marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” diameter; 1/2” high. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.79 cts (green tourmaline, 2.67cts; citrine, 2.29cts; aquamarine, 2.09cts; pink tourmaline, 1.58cts; aquamarine, .70cts; amethyst, .46cts).

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold egg-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with oval and round coral cabochons. The coral is the intense orangey-red shade displayed by coral along the Mediterranean coast. Unlike most fob charms of this type, this example is hinged and opens to serve as a small container. In Victorian times, such a container would have held a small pad soaked in perfume so a lady wouldn't have to endure the smells on the streets. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 13.6 grams.

A nice pair of vintage “Sputnik” earrings set with citrines. This style was popularized by H. Stern in the 1950s as a way to show of the company’s unparalleled access to the world’s finest colored gemstones. The design eventually became known as “Sputnik” because of the perceived resemblance to the Soviet satellite active during the early years of the space race. Generally, Sputnik pieces were set with multi-colored stones, but occasionally a piece turns up set only with one stone, as in this case. The citrines have medium-dark, strongly saturated yellowish-orange color that contrasts beautifully with the more yellowish color of the gold mountings. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 9.92 carats. 15/16" in diameter.

A large 18K gold, ruby & diamond love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“more than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand author of “Cyrano,” in 1889. The word plus is represented by a plus sign set with a small rose cut diamond, while “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with small synthetic rubies. The medal is surrounded by a lacy Gothic-style gold border. Alphonse Augis began designing these love medallions in 1907, and the styles have changed over the years.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter.
• Weight: 5.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .04 carat.

A lovely pair of 14K yellow gold earrings in a swirling foliate pattern set with pearls. The pearls, ranging 4.5-6mm, have cream body color with rose overtones. The surfaces are smooth and have fine luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1” x 7/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

A nice vintage 18K yellow gold spherical charm studded with red cabochons (possibly stained red chalcedony). The gold surfaces are nicely decorated with bright-cut engraving that simulates the beading of classic Etruscan pieces. Large charms of this sort were very popular during the 1950s and 60s. Marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams.

A very attractive vintage 14K yellow gold link bracelet, each link set with round brilliant cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are textured to resemble the tree bark. The diamonds are graded as I/SI1. The clasp is stamped with a French mark for imported 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-5/8”.
• Weight: 57.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.14 carats.

A nice Italian Etruscan style 18K gold lantern-shamed fob charm enhanced with coral cabochons. The midsection of the charm is left open to give it a feeling of lightness and to bring more life to the coral. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire and rosette decoration. The charm is stamped “750” for 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” wide, 1-1/4” long (excluding jump ring)

A nice smaller-size pyramidal Etruscan style 18K yellow gold fob charm set with carnelian and dyed green chalcedony cabochons. The gold surfaces are finely decorated with beading and wirework in the antique Etruscan manner. The original jump ring is stamped with Italian 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” long (excluding jump ring) x 3/4” Weight: 6.5 grams.

Very pretty vintage floral pin in 14K yellow gold set with a cluster of six pearls. The setting looks somewhat like a poinsettia blossom. The Florentine finish and pierced veining add a nice bit of detail to the setting. The pearls, ranging from 4.5 to 5.0 millimeters, have ivory body color with very rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 14.5 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly tourmalines in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The tourmalines have greenish blueish overtones. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings. Posts could be easily added to compliment the omega clips.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
• Weight: 16.8 grams,