Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1025)

A truly superb and rare example of a Georgian mourning ring, the navette-shaped crown set with a mourning scene on ivory covered with a rock crystal dome. The scene depicts are pair of doves perched on the edge of a fountain. The doves are worked in a thick application of enamel so they stand out from the ivory background like a bas-relief. Doves were commonly a reference to the Holy Spirit The fountain itself is made with gold borders (presumably 15K) infilled wth enamels and highlighted with floral swags applied with watercolors. A matching swag, centering a seed pearl, is suspended above the birds and fountain. The crystal is surrounded by a border of bright green and white enamel worked in a scalloped pattern. White enamel is rather uncommon and was nearly always used sparingly to reference the purity of a deceased woman. The use of green is extremely rare. The interior of the shank has an engraved monogram and a partial date that was obscured when the back of the shank was sized. At the time of the sizing, the interior of the shank was also stamped with a modern American 14K hallmark. The shank itself, however is completely original and is actually 15K gold, as is the crown.

Origin: England, ca. 1785. Condition: excellent, minute loss to enamel, sized. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: crown, 7/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 5.2 grams.

A beautiful Georgian mourning pin worked in 15K yellow gold with black enamel accents. The domed crystal cover encloses a watercolor on ivory memorial scene highlighted with snippets of hair. The scene depicts a rifle and hunting bag, a dog and a willow tree. The rifle indicates that the brooch was intended to memorialize a gentleman and the willow tree was a symbol of sorrow. The dog waits patiently at attention by his master’s belongings, symbolizing loyalty. The concept of loyalty was an important symbol in Georgian jewelry, but the dog motif is not often encountered. The leaves of the willow tree and the grass on the ground are made from very fine snippets of hair. The design is completed with the monogram “L St.” The brooch retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1790. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/32” x 25/32”.

A marvelous Georgian cross pendant worked entirely in seed pearls and centering an oval cut citrine in a 9K gold push-up setting. Seed pearl jewelry became popular during the last quarter of the 18th century and remained in fashion for about fifty years. The forms were cut from pieces of mother-of-pearl then drilled with tiny holes. Strands of horsehair, bleached to become white and translucent, were used to sew hundreds of tiny natural seed pearls to the form. The center citrine adds a bit a sparkle to what would otherwise be a very chaste piece. Some of the pearls in this piece are quite large for seed pearl jewelry. Although pearls are associated with purity, crosses are difficult to find in seed pearl jewelry. The 14K gold bale is recent.

Origin: England, ca. 1775. Condition: excellent, some glue reinforcement of the horsehair in places on the back. Size: 2” x 1-3/8”.

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A wonderful Art Deco 14K yellow gold baton-link long chain, studded at intervals with oval moss agate cabochons. The long chain was a traditional Victorian style, but in this case was updated by replacing the usual small links with long baton-style links. The resulting linear look would have been considered much more modern and stylish. The links are interrupted by nine 7.5x9.0mm moss agate cabochons. The gemstones have very nice medium- to dark-green lacy moss-like inclusions against the colorless transparent background. Notice that the stones are set closer together toward the middle of the chain, and farther apart toward the ends. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 28” long. Weight: 18.9 grams.

A magnificent Art Deco 18K white gold ring set with a 1.49-ct Burmese ruby surrounded by round diamonds. The ruby has a pure, vivid red color and eye-clean clarity. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The back of the mounting is enhanced with a pierced gallery and geometric engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, SI clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are also presenting matching earrings (Item #1306948).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 1/2". Finger Size: 5-1/4. Weight: 2.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.49 cts; diamond, .54 ct.

A very fine and exceedingly rare mid-17th century low-karat gold “Stuart crystal” memorial slide. Such pieces were secretly worn by loyalists to mourn the deposed and executed King Charles I in 1649. Eventually, they were used to mourn other deaths, as well as to celebrate betrothals and weddings. This is a particularly fine example, combining a crystal-encased miniature portrait of a well-nourished lady, regally dressed in a gown of red velvet with gold embroidery and ermine fur trim. A black mourning veil with a widow’s peak covers her hair. Four rose-cut crystals appear at the corners. Two of them enclose a gold wirework crown over a bed of woven hair, while the other two feature gold wirework entwined “CC” ciphers over a hair background. Slides such as this were threaded onto a wide black ribbon and worn on the wrist. They are generally oval or rectangular with rounded corners, but the addition of the four “jeweled” corners is most unusual. Since the portrait miniature depicts a woman in mourning, it is most likely that the image is of the slide’s owner herself rather than the deceased. The entwined “CC” cipher used in conjunction with the crown imagery suggests that this slide is an early piece that actually commemorated the death of King Charles rather than a later piece memorializing someone in the lady's family. To the casual observer it would have looked only like a miniature portrait with decorative corners, allowing the lady to express her secret grief without unfortunate political consequences for herself.

Origin: England, ca. 1650. Condition: excellent, vivid coloring to the portrait, no losses or water damage to the wirework or hair. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-1/16”.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with mother-of-pearl inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was still lead designer at Tiffany & Co. After establishing her own luxury boutique, she continued to make similar designs under her own name. The earrings are marked “Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 15.7 grams.

An exceedingly rare Georgian 18K yellow gold pendant locket celebrating the first manned flight by the Montgolfier brothers from Paris in 1783. Hot air balloons were one of the scientific wonders of the late 18th century, and balloon designs were worked into furniture, textiles, clothing and jewels. This locket features a hot air balloon carved from a piece of mother of pearl and then decorated with gilding and realistic painted detail. The balloon is affixed to a pale blue silk background and enclosed behind convex glass in an 18K yellow gold frame bordered by a ropetwist motif worked in gold and natural seed pearls. The edges of the frame are further accented with a beaded ogee design and bright-cut stippling. The back of the locket, also glass covered, features a mother of pearl plaque painted with the initial "F.H.", also affixed to a blue silk background. A piece such as this would most certainly have been made-to-order, so it is not surprising that it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The rarity of this pendant really cannot be overstated. Very little late 18th century French jewelry survived the Revolution and pieces with a Montgolfier theme are exceptional.

Origin: probably France, ca. 1785. Condition: excellent; a small piece of the balloon carving has become dislodged (probably from the top finial of the balloon) and slipped toward the bottom of the frame (the frame could be opened the the loosened piece reattached). Size: 1-7/8" x 1-5/8".

Fabulous Art Deco 18K yellow gold box, the lid decorated with opaque red and black champlevé enamels depicting a roulette wheel. A black enamel linear pattern and fan motifs at the corners complete the very Deco design. The can be used to hold either cash or mother of pearl gambling counters. For those who are curious, the case perfectly fits $2,500 in $100 bills folded in half. The superb workmanship shows, not only in the enameling, but in the solid construction techniques such as attaching the lid with a full piano hinge for extra security. The inner lip and thumbpiece are hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” mark in a hexagonal reserve used on French enameled 18K gold. There is also an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no monogram, no enamel damage, a pinpoint ding on the bottom side of the case. Size: 3-7/16” x 2-13/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 142.5 grams (4.582 troy ounces).

A lovely and very unusual 18K yellow gold, rock crystal, mother of pearl and aventurine glass ("goldstone") locket. The locket is constructed as a beveled oval frame of aventuring enclosing a pair of rock crystal windows, one of which opens to allow access to the inside of the locket. A mother-of-pearl plaque can be left in place so two photos can be displayed or removed so the locket can hold a lock of hair or a pressed flower. This is the only aventurine locket we have seen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.

A stunning Retro 18K yellow gold strap bracelet of flat hexagonal links in the Van Cleef & Arpels style. The bracelet is engraved at regular intervals with highly-detailed honeybees, their bodies represented by elongated cabochons of hessonite garnet. The use of hessonite garnet instead of the more common similarly-colored gemstones such as citrine is an inspired choice. The interior of hessonite has a wavy, “heatwave” appearance that gives the stone visible texture. It is this texture that so successfully mimics the striations on the body of a honeyee. The engraved legs and wings are beautifully executed. Van Cleef & Arpels created the strap bracelet of interlocking hexagonal plates (the “Ludo Hexagone”) in 1935 and it quickly became a favorite motif of luxury jewelers worldwide. They are occasionally set with gemstones, but this exampled with engraved bees is a first! The clasp is marked with illegible hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 23/32 in. wide; 7-1/2 in. length. Weight: 61.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.3 cts.

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

An elegant small 14K gold enameled flower pin featuring a pair of white four-leaf clovers with green veining. Each flower is centered with a seed pearl. During the Victorian era, flowers were used to symbolize specific sentiments, and the white clover meant “think of me.” Small pins such as this were often given as presents to new brides and are sometimes called honeymoon pins. The back of the pin is stamped with Hammerman’s mark and 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1946. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 2.4 grams.

A very good, large 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is studded with a variety of bezel-set tourmalines, amethysts, citrines, aquamarines and garnets. Stern popularized the style in the 1950’s to show off the variety of gemstones mined in the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design eventually became known as “Sputnik”. The rings were made in a variety of dome sizes, and this example is exceptionally large. The inside of the shank is marked with Stern’s hallmark and with 18K hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Size: dome, 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 cts.

A nice 18K yellow gold pendant or charm in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines and garnets. This jewelry design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Unmarked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good; under 10x magnification some stones show normal surface wear consistent with their age. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 1.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.03 carats.

A heavy, beautifully-detailed 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a pine branch complete with needles and fully three-dimensional pinecones attributed to Laykin et Cie. The workmanship of the brooch is very fine. Each spray of needles is accented with a prong-set round brilliant diamonds of fine quality (I/VS). The back is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark. We have seen this exact brooch with a clear signature for Laykin et Cie, the leading Hollywood jeweler of the mid-20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 2-5/16” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 21.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .35 carat.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik style collet-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets, aquamarines and citrines. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company's native Brazil. It later came to be known as "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance resulting from the specific combination of gemstones used. This pendant has rich look with unusually saturated colors. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings; pendants are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 25/32" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 3.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.81 cts.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold charm or pendant in the Sputnik style, bezel-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines and garnets. The design was created by H Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each Sputnik piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific combination and placement of the various gemstones. This particular example has strong contrasts between the darkest and lightest stones. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings. Pendants and charms, especially large ones that are fully spherical, are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 6.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.98 ct.

A lovely vintage aquamarine in diamond ring set in 14K white gold. The ring features a fine 21.74-carat oval mixed cut aquamarine flanked by a pair of .136-carat round brilliant cut diamonds. The split shank holds the aquamarine high above the side diamonds in a cage setting. The aquamarine is graded as light, very slightly grayish, slightly greenish-blue (slgB3/3) in color; good cut, and Type I eye-clean clarity. The aquarmarine is quite large, but its light tone and color saturation gives the ring a lighter feel than it might have with a darker stone. The diamonds are both I color and good cut, one with SI1 clarity, and the other with VS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”.

America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 7/8” x 15/16”. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 21.74 carats; diamond, .27 carat.

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).

A lovely and heavy vintage Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold charm in the form of a treasure chest. The surfaces are heavily decorated with beading and ropetwist tracery surrounding collet-set pearls. The chest's lid is hinged and operational. Fully hallmarked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/16" x 1" x 1" (excluding bail). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A lovely mid-century 18K yellow gold pendant featuring a deeply-colored elongated piece of coral in an ornately scrolled and beaded setting in the Venetian Etruscan style. The goldwork is entirely handmade. The coral has a faceted surface which is an unusual and difficult enhancement. The coral has the deep coloring found in Mediterranean coral in the waters near Naples. The color is entirely natural, as can be seen from the natural pale spot at the upper corner of the gem. There is another small dot on the right side of the gem, but those at at the bottom are light reflections. The back is marked "750".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 15/16". Weight: 9.4 gr.

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan Revival style fob charm of elongated lantern form set with almandine garnet cabochons. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with beaded and ropetwist decoration. The jump ring is marked “Italy 750”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” long excluding jump ring. Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.1 cts.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

A heavy 18K yellow gold egg-shaped fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob is further enhanced with oval and round coral cabochons. The coral is the intense orangey-red shade displayed by coral along the Mediterranean coast. Unlike most fob charms of this type, this example is hinged and opens to serve as a small container. In Victorian times, such a container would have held a small pad soaked in perfume so a lady wouldn't have to endure the smells on the streets. Marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 13.6 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold ovoid fob charm decorated with ornate beading and twisted wirework in the Victorian Etruscan Revival style. The fob features oval and round mixed-cut citrines in fluted collet settings. The stones along the sides are in a medium honey color, while the bottom stone is deep amber. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 15.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 32.2 carats.

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A fine modernist pendant designed as an 18K yellow gold frame enclosing a square plaque of smoky quartz with beveled edges. The front side of the gold frame has two geometric insets, a large square that occupies a fourth of the surface and a small quarter-circle at the opposite corner. This asymmetrical use of complimentary symmetrical shapes is reminiscent of the Mondrian paintings that inspired Yves Saint-Laurent’s 1965/66 couture collection. The pendant retains its original jump ring, stamped with the unidentified master goldsmith’s mark “JG.” The frame is also fully hallmarked.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: the quartz has small flakes at its corners (they are only visible upon very close inspection and could be removed by having the quartz re-beveled); all original. Dimensions: 32mm x 32mm (1-1/4 x 1-1/4 in) (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 18.8 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik†because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped “18Kâ€.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8†diameter. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.12 cts.

A delightful 14K yellow gold money clip in the form of a wishbone. The back of the clip is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark. It is interesting to note that we've seen this exact money clip with a Cartier hallmark. Leading houses such as Cartier and Tiffany often bought gold objects such as money clips and cufflinks from the better manufacturing jewelers in the New York and Newark area.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" x 1-3/16". Weight: 12.1 grams.

A very nice vintage H. Stern style "Sputnik" charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and collet-set with a variety of colorful gemstones including amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, pink tourmaline and green tourmaline. This design was popularized by Stern, the world's largest source of colored gemstones, to show off the range of colored stones available from Brazilian mines. The pointy design was reminiscent of the first Soviet satellite and was nicknamed "Sputnik". A variety of pieces were made in this style, but charms and pendants are among the most difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" diameter (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.07 cts.

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

A very cute and heavy 14K yellow gold dachshund pin, the gold body accented with small emerald eyes and a white gold collar studded with small diamonds. The pin is very finely modeled with clear definitions of musculature and the Florentine engraving nicely mimics the short hairs of a dachshund’s coat. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 12.7 grams.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold dome earrings studded with bezel-set tourmaline, topaz, garnet, citrine and aquamarine. This style was popularized by H Stern in the 1950’s and was used to show off the variety of gemstones available from the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design was eventually called “Sputnik”. The style was mostly used for rings, but also for pendants, charms and earrings. Earrings are quite uncommon. The earrings retain the original post-and-clip backs, but the posts could be removed if desired. The clips are marked “MN 750”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.36 cts.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A colorful pair of 14K yellow gold earrings by popular New York jewelry designer Sonia Bitton, whose collections have been sold at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. The earrings feature round cut amethysts, citrines, peridots, blue zircons, pink tourmalines and garnets, each set in a movable bezel. When being worn, the bezels move freely on their framework, allowing the gems to shimmer. The back are signed “Sonia B” and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, .8 ct; amethyst, .8 ct; zircon, .7 ct; tourmaline, .5 ct; peridot, .5 ct; garnet, .6 ct.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A very good 14K yellow gold brooch featuring an enameled four-leaf clover. The clover's petals are beautifully detailed with enamel decoration and are centered with a prong-set round brilliant cut diamond of very fine quality. The clover is surrounded by a chunky round gold border. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, and is hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; a tiny ding on the outer edge of the circle. Size: 1-11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .08 carat.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved bi-color watermelon tourmaline in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The colors of the tourmaline are nicely contrasting an dhighly saturated. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. The interior of the shank is signed "Burle Marx/18K" and "Ind Bras/GB/791".

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, green and pink tourmalines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This pair has strong, saturated colors in the stones. Each earring is marked for 18K and also has the early maker's mark for H Stern.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.86 cts.

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The pin was available in several sizes, this example being the second largest. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The back is dated 1983, is marked by Tiffany & Co., and is signed Paloma Picasso. The pin is presented with its Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 2-5/8”. Weight: 22.5 grams.

A stunning 18K white gold and blue sapphire ring from the "Paris Nouvelle Vague" collection launched by Cartier in 1999. The collection was inspired by the dynamism of the City of Paris. The ring is designed as an unending double spiral of white gold with one loop extended into an oval. The band crosses over at the top and is set with a row of eleven vivid pure blue round brilliant-cut sapphires. The interior of the shank is signed "Cartier" and is marked "750" for 18K gold and "55" for the size. It is also marked with the serial number 34958B" and with "tete d'aigle" marks for 18K gold. The ring is presented in its original red leather and suede fitted box imprinted Cartier and includes the original matching outer box. This ring is no longer available at Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1999. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2 to 8. Dimensions: width varies from 3/16" to 3/8". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.06 carats.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A delightful Retro 14K yellow and rose gold lucky four-leaf clover pin by Tiffany & Co. In the typical Retro style, the gold surfaces are large and mostly unadorned except for simple veining along the middle of the clover leaves. The back retains the original “fur clip” allowing the pin to be worn without actually piercing a garment’s fabric. The back is marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 7.9 gr.

A very fine vintage 14K yellow gold three-stone ring featuring an oval mixed-cut ruby flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds. All the stones are of very fine quality. The ruby has the pigeon's blood color found in the finest quality stones. It is graded at medium-dark, strong, slightly purplish Red (slpR 6/6); excellent cut; Type II eye-clean clarity; with no indications of heat or other treatment. Rubies of this quality are exceptionally difficult to find now. The diamonds are of similar quality, graded as VS1 and VS2 and both with VG cut. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, mid-20th century. Size: crown, 5/8 x 5/16". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.09 ct; diamond, .80 ct.