Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

An excellent multigem "Sputnik" ring in the style of H. Stern. Stern, the world's largest dealer in colored gemstones, created this design in the 1950's to showcase the variety of colored stones available from its Brazilian mines. This particular ring has a very brightly colored selection of stones including dark and light green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, amethyst, citrine, spessartite garnet, almandite garnet and aquamarine. The stones are collet-set above the yellow gold dome in a way that simulated the appearance of Russia's Sputnik satellite. The shank is marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.75 cts; spessartite garnet, 1.08 cts; amethyst, .91 ct; aquamarine, .70 ct; almandite garnet, .69 ct; citrine, .46 ct.

A very rare pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. designed as coiled dolphin-like sea monsters. The scales are highlighted with translucent blue champleve enamel and the eyes are set with cabochon rubies. The cufflinks are hinged and clasp together by inserting the creature's tail into its own jaws. The interior of each cufflink is marked "Tiffany 18K". There is no designer mark, but the work is very similar in style, quality and aesthetic to the designs created by Jean Schlumberger and Donald Claflin in the 1960s.

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, a 1/32" nick to the enamel on one cufflink. Size: 1" x 1-18". Weight: 21.6 grams.

A fascinating pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with emeralds. This is only the second pair we've seen with this particular type of mechanism. The "wheat-style" chain is inserted through the cuff and then wrapped around the emerald-set head. It works much like the more traditional stirrup-style, but with more flexibility. Each head is set with a pair of rectangular emeralds. As is typical of the Retro period when trade was restricted by World War II, the emeralds are synthetic. The stones have beautiful, deeply-saturated color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 3/8 x 1/8 inch. Weight: 10.2 grams.

A very attractive pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval turquoise cabochons. The gold is enhanced with foliate engraving. The turquoise has a fine medium greenish-blue color with reddish-brown matrix. Marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.3 grams.

Of the thousands of cufflinks we’ve handled over the years, this is the first pair of Art Nouveau bean-back cufflinks we’ve ever seen that have a matching design worked on both the primary face and the bean back. The 14K yellow gold links are worked with a repousse design of a maiden wearing an ornate headdress filled with the scrolls and whiplash curves typical of Art Nouveau design. The connectors are hallmarked by Krementz and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp details. Size: large faces, 3/4” x 9/16; small faces, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 5.2 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This style, in the form of equestrian stirrups or "etrier" is a classic design created around 1940. Aside from Hermes, De Percin made variations of this design for prestigious houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The cufflinks are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the master's mark of De Percin.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 5/8". Weight: 15.7 grams.

A very attractive pair of Victorian beanback cufflinks, the oval faces set with with pyrope-almandite garnet cabochons. The gemstones have a much brighter red coloring than many garnets. The gold settings are decorated with foliate scrolled borders. The backs of the faces are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.0 carats.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A fine Edwardian platinum and natural saltwater pearl necklace. The strand comprises 72 natural pearls of graduated sizes (3.7 to 5.0 mm) strung between platinum links. The pearls have symmetrical button shape, white body color with cream overtones, and excellent luster. The pearls are well-matched for size and quality throughout the strand. The necklace is finished with replaced 18K white gold clasp.

The necklace is accompanied by a gemological report from the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie indicating that the pearls are natural saltwater.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, replaced clasp as noted. Dimensions: 17-5/8" long. Weight: 10.7 grams.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A nice pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with faceted disks of bloodstone. The bloodstone has nicely mottled red and blackish-green coloring attractively accented with a gold bars in the center of each face. The connectors are marked for 14K gold and bear the hallmark of Enos Richardson & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 15/32" diameter. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A chic pair of 18K rose gold earclips in bow form, each suspending a pair of tubular chains terminating in platinum-set diamonds. The bows are pave-set with small single-cut diamonds (J/K; SI2) and are accented with arches of round brilliant diamonds (I/J; SI2). The larger diamonds (I; SI1) at the ends of the chains dangle freely for added sparkle. The uneven lengths of the chains complements the asymmetric design of the bows. The backs retain the original clips and posts have been added for pierced ears. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4 x 1-13/16 inches. Weight: 18.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.68 carats.

A very fine 18K yellow gold fob charm set with coral cameos. The faces are similar to comedy and tragedy masks, with one frowning, one smiling and one somewhere in between. The cameos are very nicely carved and have the strong coloration typical of Mediterranean coral from the Italian coast. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with beading and twisted wirework. This is one of the nicer and more unusual large fob charms we’ve seen over the years. The fob is marked “750” for 18K gold and bears an Italian maker’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-9/16” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 18.1 grams.

An elegant 18K yellow gold bracelet in a modified curb link design, with alternating links set with round diamonds. Despite its substantial weight, the openness of the oval links creates a delicate appearance appropriate for daily casual wear. The added sparkle of the diamonds allows the bracelet to be worn for dressier occasions, too. The bracelet is signed “Cartier” and has the serial number “Paris 68219”.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 8-1/5” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 19.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .80 carat.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A classic 18K yellow gold link bracelet in the "Atlas" pattern by Tiffany & Co. The design is based on the Roman numerals from the clock over the doorway of Tiffany's NY flagship store. The clasp is signed by Tiffany and is dated 2003. This bracelet is currently available only in white gold and is priced at $3,700.

Origin: Italy, 2003. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/16" wide; 7-1/8 long. Weight: 28.7 gr.

A very fine and rare Bohemian garnet pendant featuring an openwork butterfly pave set with rose-cut garnets and enclosed within a heart-shaped gilt metal frame. Most Bohemian garnet jewelry was made in the more traditional styles popular in England and America, but this pendant--in the more stylized Germanic Jugendstil--is particularly striking. Some of the butterfly's wings are set with large, deeply colored stones, while others are set with smaller, brighter stones to provide contrast. The pendant is completed with a 20-inch gold-filled chain.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; chain is a later addition. Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/2 x 2-7/8".

Superb Mikimoto brooch in the shape of a harp. The harp’s sounding board is set with a row of ten fine AA pearls graduating from 3.3 to 5.8 millimeters, and the strings are studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The neck and column, both worked in gold, are beautifully detailed. The pearls are of exceptional quality with light cream body color and rosé overtones. The luster is very bright and the pearls are well matched. The diamonds are SI1/2 clarity and G/H color. Mikimto figural brooches are very rare, and this example is nearly certainly a custom-made piece. The back is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K gold. The brooch is accompanied by a March 2006 written appraisal from the Mikimoto specialist at Bailey, Banks & Biddle for $3,250.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-1/32” x 1-5/32”. Weight: 11.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .12 carat.

A heavy 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm in a crown form, set with five oval brilliant cut amethysts and four pearls. The amethysts have nice intense coloring and good clarity. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with ropetwists and rosettes. Marked 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/16" x 1-3/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 11.83 cts.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs of this pair are accented in a severely geometric ridged pattern and their slight tapering prevents the appearance of being overly heavy. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A delightful vintage 14K yellow gold disc charm or pendant by Tiffany & Co. The center features an intricately cast "Tree of Life" bedecked with gemstone flowers. Starting with the diamond and spiraling outward in a counterclockwise direction, the first letter of each gemstone’s name—Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire and Topaz—spells “DEAREST”. The tree is enclosed in an open twist border, in turn enclosed in a broad “pleated” border. The back is marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Acrostic jewelry spelling out such sentiments was very popular in the Victorian era. The gemstones are 19th century antique cuts and Tiffany apparently custom-set them in this piece at a client’s request. The nature of the clarity characteristics suggests that the ruby is Burmese in origin, while the sapphire is Kashmir. Neither shows evidence of treatment, nor are the emeralds filled. The “Tree of Life” pattern was often set with birthstones representing the owner’s children or grandchildren, but the acrostic “DEAREST” is most unusual.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 17.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .35 ct.

A very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold watch fob seal in the form of a seated hound dog. He (it's very obviously a male dog) is extremely well-detailed and is highlighted with a black enameled collar and cabochon ruby eyes. The carnelian seal was never engraved. This fob seal is a little larger than most and has an imposing presence. The fob is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" tall. Weight: 17.4 grams.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

An attractive pair of 18K yellow gold baton-style cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut G/H color diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The gold surfaces have a semi-matte finish that accents the brilliance of the gemstones very nicely. Solid bridges connect the faces to hinged backs. The bridges are marked “750” and also have serial numbers, but no maker’s mark.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 16.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, 1.28 cts.

A delightful Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a smoking monkey. The face is beautifully detailed and he grasps a small pearl at the edge of his mouth to represent a cigarette. The surface is highlighted with a slightly rust-colored bloomed finish. The back is stamped with the mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.9 gr.

A handsome pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring an ornate pattern of woven gold “threads”. The faces are joined by chains. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in silver and 10K yellow gold. The pendant consists of an openwork triangular silver plaque with a pair of plique-a-jour enameled mistletoe leaves below a band of opals and above a band of brilliant green moldavites, themselves over a square-cut pink tourmaline suspending a semi-baroque pearl drop. The whole is suspended from a round brilliant cut pink tourmaline set in gold. The combination of colored gemstones is lovely and nicely accents the enamel. The opals have a particularly nice play of color in tones of blue and reddish-orange. The overall design strongly suggests the work of the Pforzheim studios in Germany, but the “Sterling” markings on the back indicate an American origin.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 1-5/16” x 2” (to top of bale). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, .96 ct; opal, .33 ct; moldavite, .20 ct. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A delightful 14K yellow gold money clip in the form of a wishbone. The back of the clip is marked "14K" and has an unidentified maker's mark. It is interesting to note that we've seen this exact money clip with a Cartier hallmark. Leading houses such as Cartier and Tiffany often bought gold objects such as money clips and cufflinks from the better manufacturing jewelers in the New York and Newark area.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" x 1-3/16". Weight: 12.1 grams.

A nice 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an ornate scene of two hunting hounds sniffing through tall grass for their prey. A picket fence can be seen in the background and then a sky lightly engraved with clouds and a sun or moon represented by a star-set old mine cut diamond. The back of the locket has a nice 3-letter monogram (“MAC”) original to the period. The interior retains its original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter, excluding bail. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A very nice pair of 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks by L. E. Garrigus & Co. The oval faces center buff-cut amethysts surrounded by gold borders ornately engraved in a foliate pattern. The smooth upper domes of the amethysts contrast nicely with the faceted pavilions that add a little shimmer. The connectors are stamped with Garrigus' 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16 x 9/16 inch. Weight: 6.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.6 carats.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A magnificent Art Deco 18K white gold ring set with a 1.49-ct Burmese ruby surrounded by round diamonds. The ruby has a pure, vivid red color and eye-clean clarity. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The back of the mounting is enhanced with a pierced gallery and geometric engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, SI clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are also presenting matching earrings (Item #1306948).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 1/2". Finger Size: 5-1/4. Weight: 2.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.49 cts; diamond, .54 ct.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with round brilliant cut amethysts. The stones have a beautiful, rich color with nice brilliancy. Amethysts used in cufflinks of the period were more frequently cut en cabochon rather than fully faceted as are these. The gold surfaces have a the soft matte “bloomed” or “Russian” finish sometimes seen on jewels from the Art Nouveau period. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.58 carats.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

A superb pair of modernist sterling silver cufflinks by Danish master Niels Erik From. The large domed faces center beautiful amber cabochons with strong deep reddish overtones. The amber is surrounded by a border of black patinated silver that contrasts beautifully with the natural silver and the amber. The backs are fully hallmarked for N. E. From with the marks used after 1966.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 17.2 grams.

An outstanding pair of antique 18K yellow gold cufflinks set with diamonds and rubies in the "Japanesque" style produced by Tiffany & Co. for a very brief period following the opening of Japan to western trade in the 1850s. Pieces in this style were wildly popular and always drew from traditional Japanese natural motifs, in this case chrysanthemum blossoms. Each slightly-domed face is ornately worked in a series of overlapping petals, centering old European cut diamonds and cushion cut rubies. The prongs holding the gemstones are fashioned as tiny flower petals--an element not visible except under magnification. The diamonds are estimated at H color and VS1 clarity, while the rubies are strongly-saturated medium-dark, slightly purplish-red in color. The rubies show no signs of heat treatment and are likely Burmese in origin. The faces are joined by chain links, and the backs are marked "Tiffany & Co." in the old style. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The chrysanthemum was a symbol reserved exclusively for the use of the Japanese emperor and his immediate family. As a further nod to the Japanesque style, Tiffany chose to use gemstones in shades of red and white--the official colors of the Meiji Imperial dynasty.

Origin: America, 1877-1883. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .172 ct; ruby, .367 ct.

A lovely vintage aquamarine in diamond ring set in 14K white gold. The ring features a fine 21.74-carat oval mixed cut aquamarine flanked by a pair of .136-carat round brilliant cut diamonds. The split shank holds the aquamarine high above the side diamonds in a cage setting. The aquamarine is graded as light, very slightly grayish, slightly greenish-blue (slgB3/3) in color; good cut, and Type I eye-clean clarity. The aquarmarine is quite large, but its light tone and color saturation gives the ring a lighter feel than it might have with a darker stone. The diamonds are both I color and good cut, one with SI1 clarity, and the other with VS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is marked “14K”.

America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 7/8” x 15/16”. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 21.74 carats; diamond, .27 carat.

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

A handsome pair of heavy Edwardian double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The ornately-shaped yellow gold faces are edged with beaded and stepped platinum borders and feature black enamel tracery around round old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright color (estimated at I) and SI1 clarity. The faces are joined by solid connectors marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 carat.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A beautiful pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold and natural green chalcedony cufflinks by Krementz. The cut-cornered rectangular faces are set with plaques of vivid green chalcedony surrounded by borders decorated in an angular raised diamond pattern. Cufflinks set with green gemstones are difficult to find, and this is a particularly attractive pair. The connectors are stamped 14K and have the Krementz hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8 x 1/2 inch. Weight: 9.3 grams.

An extremely desirable pair of of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting American birds, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The faces have beautifully rendered depictions of a ruffed grouse, a sandpiper, a standing mallard duck, and a mallard duck in flight. Each of the birds is brilliantly colored and set against a mother-of-pearl background. The connectors are marked "14K" and are signed "AF" for Abercrombie & Fitch.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

A rare pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces with repousse decoration representing Poseidon (“Neptune”), god of the sea. The god is identifiable by the trident that forms his crown. The background at first appears to be a simple stippled pattern, but careful examination shows that the background is actually worked in a very fine pattern of fish scales. Mythollogical subjects were very popular in men’s jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but this is the first time we’ve seen cufflinks with the image of Poseidon. The bean backs are marked by an unidentified American maker and are stamped “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 11/16” x 1/2". Weight: 5.3 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's mines in Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This bracelet has strong, saturated colors in autumnal hues. This design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets; the bracelet is by far the most difficult piece to find. This bracelet is marked for 18K and is also marked with one of Stern's early hallmarks.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: all excellent except one dome that has a ding around one of the stones (not particularly visible unless you're really looking for it). Dimensions: 27/32" wide; 7-1/2" long. Weight: 23.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 18.34 carats.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces collet-set with jasper chalcedony cabochons. The stones display a nice variety of swirling colors in hues of rust, grayish-green and cream. The figure-eight connectors are marked “14K” and have Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pansy pin enameled in rich shades of dark plum, violet, cream and saffron. The jeweler used a matte enamel to suggest the velvety texture of pansy petals. The flower is centered with a prong-set round cut diamond that adds a nice sparkle against the matte enamel. The back of the pin is marked for 14K and also has a maker's mark that we've not seen before. The pansy is most definitely a Newark or New York piece and is very similar to pansies by Hedges and Larter. Unlike most other pansies, the pin has rather substantial weight. The pansy was a popular flower for jewelry and in the Victorian language of flowers, it signified remembrance.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .09 ct.

A very fine dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The connectors and stud findings are in 14K yellow gold. The sapphires have fine, vivid coloring and excellent clarity. The connectors are stamped with Krementz's hallmark and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 13.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .78 carat.

A very nice vintage H. Stern style "Sputnik" charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and collet-set with a variety of colorful gemstones including amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, pink tourmaline and green tourmaline. This design was popularized by Stern, the world's largest source of colored gemstones, to show off the range of colored stones available from Brazilian mines. The pointy design was reminiscent of the first Soviet satellite and was nicknamed "Sputnik". A variety of pieces were made in this style, but charms and pendants are among the most difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" diameter (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.07 cts.

A very handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with garnets. The design is completely reversible so the cufflinks can be worn with either the rectangular plaques or the navette cabochons facing forward. The connectors are stamps that were used in Prague before 1921. There is also an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Czech Republic, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: plaques, 5/8"x 3/8"; navettes, 3/4" x 1/4". Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.1 cts.

A beautifully-designed Victorian ball locket enhanced with rose-cut diamonds. The two strap-like decorative elements on either side of the locket lift away, allowing the sphere to be unfolded into a locket accommodating six photos. The sphere is bisected by a band of rose-cut diamonds enhanced with engraving on either side. The original bail is set with rose-cut diamonds. As is typical of French jewels of the period, the diamonds are set in silver over the gold. Ball lockets with multiple panels are extremely rare, and this example is of particularly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A beautiful and very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet set with blue sapphires by Tiffany & Co. Each link is designed as a pair of ropetwist arches joined by a prong-set round sapphire. The links are hinged, so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable to wear. The sapphires are medium dark blue with moderately strong saturation, and show no indications of heat treatment. This classic design would look good with a business suit, a cocktail dress or jeans. The box clasp is marked “18” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2" wide. Weight: 56.0 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.6 carats.

A fine pair of Edwardian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces designed as pairs of coiled snakes. Two of the snakes have an old European cut diamond set into its head, while the other two have a round emerald. In Victorian symbology, the coiled snake represented eternity, and a pair of snakes coiled together suggested “eternal love.” The snaked as attached by chains to baton backs worked in a twisted motif, itself suggestive of the coiled snakes. The backs are marked “750” for 18K gold.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: faces, 17 x 15 mm (5/8 x 9/16 in). Weight: 10.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 ct; emerald, .035 ct.

A very cute and heavy 14K yellow gold dachshund pin, the gold body accented with small emerald eyes and a white gold collar studded with small diamonds. The pin is very finely modeled with clear definitions of musculature and the Florentine engraving nicely mimics the short hairs of a dachshund’s coat. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 12.7 grams.