Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut green tourmaline. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-15/32” overall length; snake, 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A superb 19th century French figural fob seal worked in silver and 18K gold. The gorgeously detailed wolf's head is worked in silver with gold accents such as the collar and the long tongue that hangs from one side of the very toothy jaws. The eyes are set with small rubies. The carnelian seal has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a very small flake on one corner of the carnelian, jump ring is a later addition. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.7 grams.

A very attractive and early pair of Art Deco silver cufflink from Taxco, Mexico. The square faces are decorated with an applied and incised design faintly suggestive of a stylized butterfly. The faces are connected with simple oval connectors. Each face is marked with pre-World War II marks “Taxco Silver”. Earlier Mexican silver cufflinks with pre-war marks are becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp details, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 15.1 grams.

A very fine pair of late Edwardian/Deco transitional cufflinks, the 14K yellow gold faces set with scissor-cut citrines, amethyst and green tourmaline. Each of the stones fits into a gallery beautifully engraved in a scrolled motif. Most unusually, instead of traditional prongs, the stones are held in place by lozenge-shaped plaques of platinum, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The stones have very attractive color and excellent clarity. The connectors are removable. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 6.36 cts; amethyst, 3.17 cts; tourmaline, 3.68 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A very fine vintage pair of double-sided cufflinks and three matching shirt studs by Tiffany & Co. The classic design features round brilliant cut sapphires surrounded by a wide, flat gold border finely incised with lines radiating outward toward the edges. The sapphires have the most desirable color (B6/6--medium dark vivid blue) and have eye-clean clarity. The stones show no indication of heat or other treatment. Each piece is marked "Tiffany & Co." and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 19/32" diameter; studs, 3/8" diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.932 carats.

A superb pair of vintage couture 18K yellow gold and carnelian cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. The square faces, with rounded corners, support round carnelian plaques of very rich color. The gold structure beneath the carnelian shows through the translucent gemstones to create a strong geometric pattern typical of Cardin's aesthetic. Cardin was fascinated by the juxtaposition of squares and circles beginning with his famous "Bubble Dress" in 1954, and he returned to the theme repeatedly over the next two decades. The faces are attached with solid arched connectors to spherical backs.

In the 1960's, Cardin collaborated with a handful of young modernist jewelry designers such as Jean Dinh Van to create fine jewelry items. There were never many of these designs, and they were only sold at Cardin's flagship couture boutique in Paris. Some of these rare designs have now entered the permanent holdings of the French national jewelry collection at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The cufflinks are signed "P. Cardin" and are fully hallmarked with appropriate French stamps for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8 x 5/8". Weight: 15.1 grams.

Rare, heavy and handsome 5-piece dress set by famed 20th century jewelry designer Cipullo. The double-sided cufflinks and studs are designed as highly-detail scallop shells set with cabochon natural rubies. The workmanship is superb, utilizing combinations of highly polished and matte surfaces to achieve realism. The rubies have very rich, even color. The overall style is similar to the shell designs of Verdura. The cufflink faces are joined by chains stamped with French hallmarks for 18K gold. The findings of the studs are marked “18K”. Cipullo designed for many of the major jewelers of the last century—Tiffany, Cartier, etc.—but also designed independently. This set is part of his independent production and was originally purchased from his estate.

Origin: France, circa 1955. Condition: mint. Size: cufflink large faces, 11/16” x 9/16”; cufflink small faces, 9/16” x 15/32”; studs, 19/32” x 1/2". Weight: 30.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.54 carats.

Extraordinary pair of early Cartier cufflinks, the round faces featuring brilliant green guilloche enamel in a starburst pattern, bordered with rose-cut diamonds set in delicate double-milgrained platinum borders. The enamel plaques are engraved in a manner that gives the enamel a distinct two-toned appearance and are set into 18K yellow gold backs that are attached to one another with gold chain links. The chains have a spring ring clasp, so one face can be removed for ease in attaching the cufflinks to a shirt. The backs are signed "Cartier Paris" and have serial numbers. The cufflinks are appropriately marked with "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold (the cufflinks predate the law requiring marks for platinum). Enameled Cartier cufflinks of this quality simply do not appear on the market.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, light surface wear to enamel visible under 10x magnification. Weight: 9.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.52 cts.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik†because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped “18Kâ€.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8†diameter. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.12 cts.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. Each rectangular face is bead-set at one end with a round brilliant cut blue sapphire. Engraved lines emanate from the gemstones in a sunburst pattern. The sapphires are a medium dark strongly saturated blue in color and contrast nicely with the bright gold. The backs are marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 23/32” x 1/2”. Weight: 17.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .40 carat.

NOTE: We are offering a matching tie bar as Item #1001380.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

An elegant pair of Art Nouveau floral double-sided floral cufflinks worked in 20K yellow gold. The faces are very finely hand-chased with an ornate pattern of daisies. The high gold content gives the cufflinks are very bright yellow color and heavy weight. The connecting chains are marked with an illegible maker's mark and a continental European mark for 20K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16" x 11/32". Weight: 7.8 grams.

An extraordinary gentleman's dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with cabochon cut blue sapphires. The design is very simple and sophisticated. The sapphires are of unusually fine quality to be cut en cabochon. Using the Gemological Institute of America's grading system, they are medium-dark, vivid strongly violetish-blue with excellent symmetry and polish, and very good clarity. The set was retailed by Cabochon Jewellers, Bangkok's most luxurious jeweler, located in the lobby of The Oriental Hotel. The set is accompanied by two original bills of sale, indicating the weight of the gemstones. Each piece is marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Thailand, ca. 1978. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16" x 15/32"; studs, 1/2" x 13/32". Weight: 24.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.51 carats (cufflinks, 9.53 cts; studs, 5.98 cts).

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

A handsome set of 14K yellow gold, platinum, pearl and mother-of-pearl cufflinks and shirt studs in a classic style. Each octagonal face is edged with a platinum border engraved in a floral design. The rich coloring of the mother-of-pearl contrasts beautifully with the platinum. Each piece is marked “14K” and has Larter’s manufacturer’s mark. The dress set is presented in its original fitted box, with the inside of the lid inscribed “J. E. Caldwell & Co./Philadelphia”. Larter was one of the most important American manufacturing jewelers and produced many pieces for elite stores such as Caldwell, Tiffany, and Bailey, Banks & Biddle.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 9.1 grams.