Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1586)

An unusually fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “stirrup” (“etrier”) style popularized by Cartier in the late Art Deco period. Rather than the usual triangular shape, however, the cufflinks display a double cyma-curve shape. Each of the sides is decorated with an angular ridged pattern at the edges. The solid bar is hidden inside the cuff when the cufflinks are being worn. Most “etrier” cufflinks have a hinged opening at the bar, but this pair opens at the point where the two sides meet. The mechanism is invisible when closed and the style gives the cufflinks considerably more appeal than their cousins. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 13.0 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks, the faces set with ornately carved amethyst cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds and centering collet-set single cut diamonds. The borders of diamonds are set in millgrained platinum. The carving on the amethysts is finely done and the surfaces have a matte finish that gives the stones a deep velvety appearance. The faces are connected with chains to gold lozenge-shaped backs centering round cut diamonds. All the diamonds have bright color and good clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 1/2"; backs, 7/8” x 5/16”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.14 carats, amethyst, 9.48 carats.

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

A fine and very early pair of silver cufflinks in the “Maya” pattern by Margot de Taxco. Margot established her own studio in 1948. The “Maya” pattern, displaying a strongly-featured native Mexican man in profile, became one of her iconic designs. The cufflinks are generously sized and retain a nice patina. The backs of the faces are stamped with marks used before the introduction of the eagle system in 1948, so the cufflinks can be dated to a very early date for Margot.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1948. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 13.6 grams.

A beautiful pair of Art Deco double-faced cufflinks, the faces decorated in checkerboard fashion with diamonds and sapphires. The round brilliant-cut diamonds are estimated at I color, VS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone and are vivid slightly violetish-blue in color. The gold surfaces are treated in the matte Russian finish. The faces are connected by chains. The backs of the faces are signed “A E Betteridge”, a luxury jeweler in Connecticut since the late 19th century, and are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .61 ct.; sapphire, 2.48 cts.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’epargne enameling in a delicate floral pattern. Some lesser bracelets are enameled only on the front side, but this one has decoration in complimentary patterns to both front and back. The design is further highlighted by intricate bright-cut engraving that adds sparkle. The bracelet’s clasp mechanism has an 1870 patent date. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no dents. Dimension: 5/8” wide; 6” interior circumference. Weight: 25.3 gr.

An interesting and massive pair of 22K yellow gold cufflinks, each formed as a square plaque comprising four large curb links arranged around a central bead. The backs are attached to heavy chains to baton backs. Each cufflink is stamped with unidentified hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 22K. Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, one baton back has been replaced. Size: 1” x 1”. Weight: 18.8 grams.

A very attractive pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces set with oval garnet cabochons. Cufflinks of the kind are usually made with a simple bezel setting, but this pair has a double border of gold around the garnets, giving them a more substantial look. The garnets are very fine, with vivid red coloring. Each cufflink is marked "14K" and is signed wtih the maker's mark for Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 9.3 grams. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 10.84 carats.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

Very pretty vintage floral pin in 14K yellow gold set with a cluster of six pearls. The setting looks somewhat like a poinsettia blossom. The Florentine finish and pierced veining add a nice bit of detail to the setting. The pearls, ranging from 4.5 to 5.0 millimeters, have ivory body color with very rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and very lustrous. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8” diameter. Weight: 14.5 grams.

A classic pair of Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz worked primarily in 14K yellow gold. Each face is formed from a carved mother-of-pearl disc set in an engraved platinum border and centering a cabochon blue sapphire. The sapphires, though small, have good blue color that nicely accents the irisdescent surfaces of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K” and have Krementz’ hallmark. The platinum portions are tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.1 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .68 ct.

A most unusual and attractive dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, the faces featuring bezel-set lapidary cabochon amethysts. The amethysts have good, even color and the faceting adds a bit of sparkle. Each piece is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflink faces, 7/16" diameter; stud faces, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.58 carats.

An 18K yellow gold buckle ring enhanced with enamel in Gucci's trademark Kelly green. The simplicity of the design is classic Gucci. The interior of the shank is signed "Gucci 18" Italy".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Dimensions: shank, 3/16" wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 3.4 grams.

An exceptionally fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces hand-pierced with an ornate depiction of a mythological griffin. The workmanship is superbly done with heavy chased detail throughout. The surfaces show a mix of polished and semi-matte finishes. The backs have an ingenious folding mechanism that clasps the cuff without being too obvious. The clasps are marked with 19th century French patents, as well as hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A nice pair of Edwardian double-sided cufflinks worked in platinum over 14K gold. The hexagonal faces are decorated with ornate engine-turned engraving and are set with French-cut blue sapphires with a strongly violet tint to the blue. The backs of the faces are marked "Plat on 14K" and the connectors bear a maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .21 cts.

A heavy pair of 18K yellow gold mesh stirrup-style cufflinks. A round diamond is set into each end of the closing mechanisms. The mesh is distinguished with diamond-shaped punched decoration that adds more texture to the design than is ordinarily seen. The diamonds are of nice quality, graded as I/J color, SI1 clarity. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and also bears an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8" wide. Weight: 20.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in a modified oval stirrup (“etrier”) style. Stirrup cufflinks, originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era, are typically triangular in shape. The oval version, with its concealed hinge and clasp mechanisms, creates a seamless band of gold around the cuff for a very striking look. The surfaces are accented in a severely geometric ridged pattern. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16” x 5/8”. Weight: 9.7 grams.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the square faces set with calibré cut blue sapphires in a raised frame. The sapphires have deep, saturated color that contrasts very nicely the surrounding gold. The surfaces are expertly engraved in what at first appears to be a basketweave pattern, but is in fact a complex plaid pattern. The cufflinks close with an unusual snap mechanism that requires the ends of the back baton face to be pressed in. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15 x 15mm (9/16 x 9/16 in). Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.15 ct.