Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

An elegant 14K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in a twisted braid design. Interestingly, the bracelet tapers toward either end, leaving the middle heftier. This subtle detail gives the bracelet great elegance. The bracelet could be used to suspend up to 18 charms by passing thin jump rings through the center of each twist. That said, it’s really rather attractive all on its own. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 3/8” wide at center
• Weight: 15.7 grams

An incredible Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of an 1880’s style oil derrick. The details are amazing, complete with a pump house, a suspended drilling bit inside the derrick and a collection vat. Even spare parts lie around on the base. The entire piece is completely handworked and was almost certainly a special order and was probably made shortly after the first commercial oil well was drilled in Pennsylvania around 1860. Figural fobs of this quality are extremely rare. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram on seal. Weight: 12.5 grams.

A very attractive pair of Victorian beanback cufflinks, the oval faces set with with pyrope-almandite garnet cabochons. The gemstones have a much brighter red coloring than many garnets. The gold settings are decorated with foliate scrolled borders. The backs of the faces are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.0 carats.

An elegant pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings fashioned as lover’s knots, with neither beginning nor end. The gold surfaces are decorated with an ornate foliate pattern, enhanced with flush-mounted antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. The gemstones are of fine quality, with deeply saturated color and eye-clean clarity. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1876
• Condition: excellent; replaced wires
• Dimensions: 3/4” x 1-1/8” from top of wire
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .52 carat; ruby, .23 carat; sapphire, .23 carat
• Weight: 8.7 grams

This substantial Victorian 14K gold chain can be worn alone as a statement piece or be used to suspend a heavy locket or pendant. Each link is reeded to add extra texture and shine. The links are open so the chain can be used to suspend a series of charms, if desired. The chain is completed with a spring ring clasp. The clasp is marked "14K" and the chain is tested and guaranteed 14K, as well.

• America, ca. 1880.
• Excellent condition.
• 22 3/4" long.
• 16.4 grams.

A elegant brooch worked in 18K yellow gold filigree centering a round brilliant-cut amethyst surrounded by natural seed pearls. The amethyst’s collet is enhanced with millegraining, as is the remainder of the filigree work. The edge is finished with a border of wirework rosettes. The quality of workmanship is superb. Filigree of this delicacy is usually only seen in platinum. The amethyst is moderately pale with a slightly pinkish tint. The back of the pin is marked “18Kt”, and there is an indistinct mark on the original c-clasp. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8” on the diagonal; 7/8" x 7/8" on the square
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: .68 carat.

A large 15K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an applied floral motif. The flower’s petals are set with Persian turquoise cabochons while the leaves are set with seed pearls. The pearls and turquoise are of good quality, with bright coloring that enhances the dramatic appeal of this large locket. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, interior frame intact. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (excluding bail). Weight: 18.0 gr.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

A delightful mid-Victorian worked in shades of 14K rose and green gold. The small pendant/pin depicts a green gold frog against and engraved background of rose gold cattails and other marsh plants accented with green gold leaves. The overall design is really fun. The back of the pendant/pin is gold-filled, but is original. A folding bail has been added so the piece can be worn as a pendant or as a pin. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, a tiny ding underneath one of the bottom corners. Dimensions: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

An amusing late Victorian brooch fashioned as two crossed golf clubs. The shafts are worked in 18K yellow gold, while the heads are made in platinum. A small pearl, representing a golf ball rests against each club. Sporting jewelry is quite desirable, and golf-related pieces are particularly rare. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp. Stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 3/8”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

An intricately designed 14K yellow gold chain comprised of a double row of reeded oval links enhanced at regular intervals with engraved acanthus leaf plaques. The chain is from the late Georgian or early Victorian period, and is completely handmade. The clasp is a large bolt, reeded to match the links. The individual links are open enough that the chain could be used to hang charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1845
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 20-1/2" long; 7/16" wide
• Weight: 28.1 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.

A very fine Victorian festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold and set with variously cut amethysts and tiny seed pearls. The central element features two oval and one antique cushion cut amethysts suspending a large antique cushion cut amethyst flanked by a pair of pear-shaped drops and further suspending a more triangular pear-shaped drop. Each of the stones is set in an ornate ropetwist, beaded and scrolled setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The chain itself is handmade in an equally ornate style of s-scrolls and beading. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 16.5” long; central element, 2.5” long. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 31.05 cts.

A striking pair of double-sided cufflinks made from Georgian cut steel and garnet buttons joined with 15K yellow gold chains. The garnets have very attractive medium-bright purplish-red coloring that contrasts nicely with bright sparkle of the cut steel “gems.” The garnet cabochons are held in place with fleur-de-lis shaped prongs. The faceting style of the steel indicates they were made in an earlier period, likely no later than 1790. The connecting chains have spring rings, so one face of each link can be removed for ease in placing the cuff hole. One of the spring rings is 9K and the other is gold-filled. They can easily be replaced with 14K by any jeweler. The back of one face has a worn engraving and the date 1871—probably they year the chains were added to the then 100 year-old buttons.

Origin: England, ca. 1770/1871. Condition: very good. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 30.7 cts.

A pretty ring converted from a French 18K rose and yellow gold and ruby stick pin. The design shows a detailed rose gold snake curled around a yellow gold flower. The serpent's head is set with an antique cushion cut ruby of rich red color. The 18K gold snake is mounted on a 14K gold band.

In Victorian times, the snake was used to represent never-ending love. Prince Albert gave a snake ring to Queen Victoria on the occasion of their marriage.

Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized up or down). Dimensions: snake, 11/16" x 3/8". Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 ct.

A very nice Victorian watch fob chain of woven hair accented with 14K yellow gold fittings. The weaving is very nicely done from hair in a soft chestnut color. The center of the chain features a paneled gold fitting from which is suspended a gold-mounted pendant drop with acorns and leaves. Hairwork jewelry was a cottage industry and was made both as memorial jewelry and as love tokens. Each end of the chain is finished with gold fittings, as well. A contemporary gold filled chain has been added to the back to transform the fob chain into an 18” long necklace.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 18” long (with extension); 12-1/2” long (without extension).