Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

An outstanding American Art Nouveau pansy brooch/pendant in a large size, enameled with translucent enamels in shades of royal blue, cream, yellow and maroon. The flower is centered with a .20-carat old European cut diamond of H color, SI2 clarity. The pansy is very nicely shaped, with deeply rippling petals that beautifully enhance the enameling. The back is stamped “14K” and has an unidentified maker’s mark “DeEs”og. The piece can be worn as either a brooch or pendant.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: enamel has one small nick at the bottom left edge (less visible than in the photo) and light surface scratches; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”.
• Weight: 11.8 grams.
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

An excellent late Victorian silver baton link watch chain, the batons decorated with niello in a checkboard pattern. The batons are joined by gilt silver curb links. Even the dog clip and bolt clasps are enhanced with striped niello. The chain is stamped “800.”

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all niello intact
• Length: 16-1/2”
• Weight: 10.4 grams

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

A spectacular example of Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival jewelry from the period 1876-1918, this necklace features a central pendant drop in the form of a leaping stag suspended by pearl-enhanced chains from a neckchain of sapphire- and ruby-set plaques. The necklace is enameled throughout in shades of opaque white and black, and translucent green, red and purple. The stag is decorated with realistic shaded brown and gold enamels. The stag is set with a sapphire- and ruby-encrusted saddle. The neckchain has alternating wing-shaped plaques set with rubies and decorated green and white enamels, and buckle-shaped plaques set with oval sapphires enhanced with red and white enamels. The backs of the pendant and chain are also enameled. Exposed areas of silver are lightly engraved.

• Origin: Austria-Hungary (likely Vienna), ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original; only the faintest of wear to enamels on the high points of the stag (visible under magnification).
• Dimensions: necklace length, 15-1/2"; pendant, 1-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long (including the pearl chains).
• Weight: 29.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.03 carats; ruby, 1.58 carats.

An unusually heavy pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces worked in an intricate engine-turned design. The faces are actually round, but the designed makes them appear octagonal. The backs are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.1 grams

Very fine pair of late Art Noveau 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The faces show a beautifully designed young woman's face stylized wisps of hair cascading around a porthole-like frame. The design is really superb. The connectors open so the cufflinks are easy to put on. The backs are marked with French 18K import marks. The rather severely stylized design suggests that they are of Belgian or German (possibly Austrian) origin.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

Edwardian 18K gold and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds. The front faces are fashioned as spheres, the top half worked in platinum and the lower half in gold. The top of sphere features a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The back faces are designed as a crossbar set with diamonds, the ends terminating in smaller spheres, each set with a diamond. The appearance is very attractive, with a little sparkle but an overall masculine appeal. The backs are marked with unidentified Continental hallmarks.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: spheres, 3/8" diameter; bars, 3/4" long. Weight: 7.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .70 ct.

An elegant 14K yellow gold gold bracelet constructed with modified gatelinks, each enhanced with engraved details. The five center links are set with round sapphires. The sapphires have intense coloring and excellent clarity. The interior is stamped "14K" and also has Crane & Theurer's maker's mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide; 7-1/4" long
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .60 carat

An impressive Edwardian pendant featuring a large cabochon amethyst and diamonds set in platinum. The amethyst is pierced and set with a .25ct H/SI1 diamond and surrounded by a halo of small old European cut and rose cut diamonds. The bail is similarly set with rose cut diamonds. The pendant has a very dramatic appeal, yet the openness of the setting keeps it from being overpowering. Tested and guaranteed platinum (chain is silver).

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 32.75 cts; diamond, 1.25 cts.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

A handsome and colorful pair of reverse-carved Essex crystal cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The faces feature color fly fishing lures in shades of red white and black against mother-of-pearl backgrounds. The front faces are attached by bar connectors to simple gold backs that are original to the cufflinks. The backs have never been monogrammed. The connectors are marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no chipping or damage to the crystals. Dimensions: front faces, 19/32" diameter.

An elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The gold oval reserves are enhanced with engine-turned engraving in a striped pattern and are surrounded by engraved platinum borders. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1910

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16”

Weight: 8.8 grams

Edwardian enameled 14K gold “bean-back” cufflinks. The faces are decorated with elegant engine-turned engraving and a wide border of opaque white enamel. The shanks are marked for gold content, and also for the maker, Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Co. (1909-15) of Newark, NJ.

Origin: America, 1909-15. Condition: faces are excellent with no damage to enamel; the “bean” backs have the usual light dings from normal wear and one shank is slightly bent (does not affect wearability, stability or appearance). Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A sweet good luck charm in the form of a 14K gold wishbone entwined with a branch of bright blue enameled forget-me-nots. In Victorian flower language, forget-me-nots represented remembrance. Combined with the wishbone, a piece such of this might have been given as a farewell gift. Stamped with the maker's mark for Winthrop Manufacturing Co (Attleboro, MA).

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: perfect enamel; original pinstem and clasp were removed and replaced with a hidden bail by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1/2".
• Weight:2.7 grams.

An elegant pair of Edwardian sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with purple guilloche enamel accented with a border of opaque white enamel. The backs are stamped "Sterling."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 23/32" x 7/16" (18 x 11 mm)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.

A superb pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the octagonal faces worked in platinum over gold. Each face features sugarloaf cabochon sapphire of fine, vividly saturated blue. Each cabochon is flanked by four rectangular sapphires flush-mounted with milgrained borders. The faces are joined with chain connectors. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.99 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.16 cts.

Very nice Victorian 14 karat yellow gold stickpin in the shape of a horseshoe, set with nine seed pearls. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2" long.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamond in an openwork mounting. The diamond crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 3/8" (9x9mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .11 ct.

Lovely Edwardian bar pin of 10K white laid over 10K yellow gold, beautifully worked in an ornate filigree and millegrained pattern, centering a 1-pt. round brilliant-cut diamond. The back is marked "10K" and also has a maker's mark.

Origin: America, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/32" long.

Lovely Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring small seed pearls set in a diamond-shaped mounting. The faces are connected to the torpedo backs with beautifully crafted chains. The faces are marked “18CT” and the chains have an additional hallmark that is illegible.

Origin: probably England, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/8” x ½”. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the hexagonal faces fitted with round mother-of-pearl plaques centering gold lozenges set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have attractive color that accents the iridescence of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The faces are joined by solid bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8 in. diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .10 carat.

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

An attractive pair of simple Art Deco double-sided cufflinks, each face formed from a round cabochon amber simply set in a 14K yellow gold collet. The amber has superb clarity and appears to be foiled underneath to enrich the color to a strong yellowish-orange and to create a stronger reflection. The result would look good with a blue suit, but even better with khaki or brown. The backs are signed for Sansbury & Nellis and are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

An Edwardian gilt silver ("vermeil") locket enhanced with bright turquoise blue guilloche enamel. The starburst design of the champleve is enhanced with gilt accents in the enamel. The locket retains the original insert frames on both sides. Stamped with English hallmarks; the city mark is obscured, so we can't be certain of the exact date letter, but we believe it to be 1917.

• England, ca 1917
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Weight: 13.0 grams

A very fine Art Nouveau pendant formed from an exceptionally large natural freshwater pearl mounted in platinum and gold and set with diamonds. The floral platinum mounting features a .15 carat old European diamond and nine single-cut diamonds. The bail is shaped as a clover and is set with three additional diamonds. The pearl has fine luster with rose and green orient. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 14K gold. The contemporary chain is 14K white gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-9/16" x 1/2"; chain, 16"
• Weight: 5.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .45 carat

An outstanding pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the simple oval faces set alternately with round rubies and old European cut diamonds. The faces are joined by unusual arched connectors that give the cufflinks a nice, comfortable spread to fit the wrist. The cufflinks may be worn with either the diamond or the ruby sides showing outward. The gemstones are of fine quality. The diamonds are graded as G color with SI2 clarity; and the rubies as medium-toned, moderately-strong slightly purplish-red color (slpR 5/4) with eye-clean clarity. The connectors are fully hallmarked by Bippart, Griscom and Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 19 mm (9/16 x 3/4 in). Weight: 14.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; ruby, .31 ct.

An elegant square locket worked in 14K yellow gold. The locket is simply decorated with an engraved laurel leaf border. The cover is set with four rubies surrounding a demantoid garnet. The bail is placed at a corner, so the locket hangs in a diamond shape. The interior retains the original frame insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good, a few pinpoint dings to back cover, never monogrammed
• Dimensions: 1” corner to corner
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .14 carat; demantoid, .08 carat
• Weight: 4.1 grams

A fine 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with deep translucent guilloche enamel over an engine-turned background surrounded by a reeded border enameled in opaque white. The front is centered with an old mine cut diamond. The trefoil-shaped bail is an especially nice touch. The interior retains the original frame insert. The bail is marked for 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark.

NOTE: This locket was very difficult to photograph. The purple enamel is deeply saturated and looks quite dark viewed directly. When the light strikes at an angle, however, the translucency of the purple comes shining through to show the underlying enraving.

• America, ca. 1910
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage; no dings; no monogram
• Dimensions: 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .04 carat

A perfect way to wear a little of the Gilded Age right on your own hand! The lovely navette shape is slimming on the finger and can even be worn on the middle or index finger. The ring has a delicate appearance but enough length to make a statement. The warm glow of medium-toned center ruby contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the four diamonds (I/SI2) surrounding it. The yelow gold shake is set with a four additional rubies flanking the navette. The interior of the shank is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/4 (easily sized up or down several notches). Dimensions: 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, .40 ct.

A delicate Art Nouveau 10K gold pin featuring a pansy decorated with translucent violet, pink and cream enameled. The flower center and a bud are set with small seed pearls. The brooch retains its original pinstem and clasp stamped "10K." In Victorian flower language, the pansy conveyed the meaning "Think of me." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for new brides.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good; a small enamel flake to the tip of one petal (superficial only and does not affect the color)
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/8"
• Weight 2.5 grams.

An elegant pair of classic Edwardian double-sided cufflinks, the octagonal faces decorated with engine-turned engraving in the form of a spray of acanthus leaves against a stippled background. The faces are completed with an octagonal platinum border. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Howe. The backs are also engraved with a period “RD” monogram.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 8.0 grams

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blister pearls, by Carrington. The pearls have very lustrous surfaces with good iridescence and are simply set in gold frames. These cufflinks would look particularly good worn with a dark shirt. The backs are stamped with Carrington's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 3/4" x 9/16"; back faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 7.5 grams.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr