Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A handsome pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl plaques, each centering a bezel-set pink sapphire cabochon. The color contrast is quite attractive. The connectors are removable for ease in putting on the cufflinks. The cufflinks have nice weight and are comfortable to wear. Each is marked “18K” and also bears French import marks.

• Origin: possibly England or America, ca. 1910.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.12 carat.
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings or chips.

A delightful Imperial Austrian silver brooch set with three reverse-carved Essex crystals by the Imperial jeweler Georg Adam Scheid. The domed pin is finely engraved in a basket-weave motif and is pierced by three Essex crystals, each depicting a lap dog, perhaps a Pekingese. The dogs are well carved and colored, with tiny blue bows under their chins. The crystals never had a mother-of-pearl backing like those produced in England and France. Except in France, Essex crystals were not widely used in Continental European jewelry. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The hinge is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks for 800 silver and with Scheid’s hallmark. The brooch retains its patina, but could be polished if desired.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1880. Condition: all original, silver is excellent, some wear to the paint on the crystals. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 8.3 gr.

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold wreath pin by Krementz. The leafy wreath, worked in shaded green enamels is studded with tiny gold berries, four seed pearls and four small old European cut diamonds. The sparkle of the diamonds against the colored enamel is very nice. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, marked with Krementz’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Size: 7/8” diameter.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .06 carat.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau four-leaf clover honeymoon watch pin, the leaves beautifully enameled in shades of translucent green, yellow and rust. The 14K yellow gold crescent moon is set with a graduated row of pearls, while an old European cut diamond centers the clover. The back retains the original clasp and watch hook. In Victorian flower language, the clover symbolized "good luck." When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was "honeymoon," and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family. Since the meaning here is "good luck on your honeymoon," we'd have to assume that this particular pin was a gift from the bride's mother rather than from her groom. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" x 1"
• Weight: 3.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 ct

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with ornate engine-turned engraving in a sunburst pattern with laurel leaf borders. The front cover is centered with a blue sapphire cabochon with rich coloring. The locket’s back cover is more simply decorated with engine-turned stripes. Even the interior edges, which are hidden from view, are engraved in a foliate pattern. The locket is suspended from its original laurel leaf jump ring that matches the border of the front cover. The interior retains both of the original portrait frames. The overall style is typical of French or Russian jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-3/16” diameter (excluding jump ring). Approximate Sapphire Weight: .24 cts. Weight: 10.3 gr.

An extraordinary pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the shape of thistles. The leaves and choke of the thistle are bead-set with round cut emeralds, while the blossoms are set with pale round cut amethysts. The emeralds, though small, have medium-dark tone, intensely saturated green color. Though the individual stones are small, the strength of color creates a very good appearance, and there is no sign of treatment. The faces are connected by chains to ropetwist baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 13.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, .48 ct; emerald, 1.08 cts.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks featuring oval agate cabochons collet-set in 10K yellow gold. The stones are an interesting honey color streaked with rust and gray. The connectors are marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/8”.

A curving band of old European, transitional and single-cut diamonds sparkle in the yellow gold ribbon top of this Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet. The larger diamonds are clasped in buttercup settings, while the smaller ones are bead-set with milgrain accents. The diamonds are good quality, averaging J color and SI1 clarity. The back of the bracelet has a caged structure that mimics the openness of the front. The clasp is stamped 14K.

America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at top tapering to 1/4" at back; fits a 6-5/8" wrist.
• Weight: 26.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.47 carats.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A fine pair of Victorian bean-back cufflinks, each oval face set with a round color-change sapphire flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds. The sapphires change from blue in sunlight to violet in incandescent light. One stone exhibits a more pronounced color change than the other. This is normal because of the difficulty in matching a pair of stones for size, clarity and color under varying lighting conditions. The diamonds are fine quality with bright color. The gold surfaces have the softly-bloomed matte texture prized in the Art Nouveau era. The bean backs have original bright-cut monograms. Marked “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .44 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A 14K gold Art Nouveau enameled violet and horseshoe pendant using the Victorian language of flowers to convey the sentiments "good luck" and "I'll always be true." The violet is centered with an old European cut diamond and the horseshoe is studded with seed pearls. The back retains the original pin and a folding, so the piece can be worn as a pin or pendant. The clasp is marked "14K."

• America, ca 1900
• Excellent condition; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8" excluding bail
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat
• 4.0 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau locket worked in 14K yellow gold depicting a poppy blossom and buds. In the Victorian language of flowers, the red poppy represented "consolation," certainly an apt choice for a locket that might hold a portrait. The interior of the locket retains both of the original frames and glass covers. The jump ring is marked "10K", but the locket is tested and guaranteed as 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; the back cover appears to have had a monogram removed. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 6.9 gr.

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with a rich reddish-orange citrine. The pearls have very attractive lustre. The back retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is stamped with the mark for Charles S. Crossman & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Citrine Weight: .43 carat.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of a pair of dolphin-like fish facing one another. The bodies are scaly and they have ornate flowing gills in the classical manner. The oval seal is engraved with a four-letter monogram and also T. E. Co. 1918. The fob retains its original reeded jump ring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1918. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Weight: 4.7 grams. Size: 1-5/8” x 1”.

Art nouveau 14K gold and enamel circle pin in the form of stylized orchid blossoms enameled in iridescent lavender and cream. This pin is a nice example of how Art Nouveau sensibilities took a standard Victorian design=--the circle pin--and gave it a new aesthetic appeal. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; all original
• Dimensions: 15/16" diameter
• Weight: 3.5 grams