Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A very fine vintage pair of double-sided cufflinks and three matching shirt studs by Tiffany & Co. The classic design features round brilliant cut sapphires surrounded by a wide, flat gold border finely incised with lines radiating outward toward the edges. The sapphires have the most desirable color (B6/6--medium dark vivid blue) and have eye-clean clarity. The stones show no indication of heat or other treatment. Each piece is marked "Tiffany & Co." and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 19/32" diameter; studs, 3/8" diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.932 carats.

An elegant pair of 19K yellow gold "Contas de Viana" earclips. The domes are covered with concentric circles of ropetwist appliques in the ancient Etruscan style. The clips are stamped with older Portuguese hallmarks for 19K.

Viana beads were modeled on ancient Etruscan jewels found in archaeological sites in Portugal. The circular patterns of filigree and granulation were thought to resemble the eyes of a partridge, bringing luck and protection. A Portuguese girl received her first bead from her godmother at birth. Whenever the family could afford it, another bead was added to the collection with the goal being to create a complete necklace—a circle of protection and good luck—in time for her marriage.

Origin: Portugal, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 9.9 grams.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring collet-set rectangular garnet plaques in a deep wine red shade. The faces are connected by chains to classic baton backs. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an illegible master goldsmith's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 11/16" (14x18mm).
• Condition: excellent.
• Weight: 13.2 grams.

A stunning late Art Deco pair of diamond and palladium dress clips by Tiffany & Co. The clips are fully convertible with a duette mechanism into a single round brooch of substantial presence. Each clip features a pair of stylized flowers with curving foliage and are faintly in the cornucopia shape popular in Deco and Retro jewels. The clips are extremely versatile--they can be worn singly, as a pair or joined as the larger brooch. The diamonds are G color and VVS2-VS1 clarity. The back of each clip is marked "950 Palladium Tiffany & Co." and each as a scratched inventory number. The duette mechanism is worked in gold. The clips are presented in their original Tiffany box.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 3/4" each; 1-3/8" x 1-1/2" joined. Weight: 16.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.88 cts.

A fascinating pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with emeralds. This is only the second pair we've seen with this particular type of mechanism. The "wheat-style" chain is inserted through the cuff and then wrapped around the emerald-set head. It works much like the more traditional stirrup-style, but with more flexibility. Each head is set with a pair of rectangular emeralds. As is typical of the Retro period when trade was restricted by World War II, the emeralds are synthetic. The stones have beautiful, deeply-saturated color. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 3/8 x 1/8 inch. Weight: 10.2 grams.

A handsome pair of reversible heavy 18K yellow gold flip-up cufflinks. One side of each end is finished smooth, while the reverse side is engraved in a zigzag pattern. The flip-up style was popularized by Cartier in the 1930s and continued to be popular in France through the mid-century. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with the “tete d’aigle” stamp for 18K gold and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 11.6 grams.

A handsome pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Georg Jensen. The rectangular faces are severely designed in the Art Deco style, with only a series of parallel raised bands as decoration. The solid connectors are attached to hinged oval backs. The cufflinks are marked with the pattern number 80 and bear post-1945 Jensen hallmarks.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16" x 3/8". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

A fine Retro leaf brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and sapphires. The curved leaf is lightened by the use of wire construction, a technique often seen in French jewelry of the period. The lower edge of the wire leaf is enhanced with antique cushion and old European cut diamonds, and the upper edge with a row of blue sapphires. Two larger old European diamonds are nestled among the solid leaves to one side. The three largest diamonds range from .55 to .30 carat. All are SI1 clarity I-J color. The sapphires have bright pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The design is versatile and the pin can be worn horizontally with the wire leaf to the left or vertically with the wire leaf at the bottom.

The use of such a range of antique diamond cuts in a piece of this era suggests that the pin was custom-made using diamonds (and possibly the gold) from one of the client's older jewels. This was a common practice during the shortages of World War II. The pinstem is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1948
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 1-1/8"
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 carats; sapphire, .46 carat.
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

A lovely 14K yellow gold round brooch featuring a reverse-carved intaglio of a marlin or swordfish. The fish, recently hooked, is pictured leaping high above the waves. The crystal is nicely painted and retains its bright coloring. The crystal is set in a sunburst frame. Essex crystals first became popular during the Victorian era and usually featured sporting animals such as horses, foxes and fish, or domestic pets. They continued to be popular through the Edwardian period, but few were made after World War II. The back of the pin is marked “14K” and has the maker’s name “Crossroads”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/32” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A chunky French tank bracelet worked in rose and yellow gold. The 1937 World’s Fair gave rise to a fashion for “tank jewelry,” so called for its perceived resemblance to the treads of armored tanks. This bracelet features angular ridges alternating with rounded elements that creates a woven visual effect. The angular segments are reeded, and the center reed of each is stippled for textural interest and is worked in bright yellow gold to contrast with the rose tint of the rest of the bracelet. The tongue of the clasp is marked with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1940
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-1/2”
• Weight: 56.0 grams
• Condition: excellent, no dings

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round faces are engraved with concentric circles around central old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright H-I color and VS clarity. Each piece is marked by Larter, who manufactured jewelry for leading houses including Bailey, Banks & Biddle; Tiffany; Cartier, etc. The set is presented in its original Bailey, Banks & Biddle fitted box. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .29 ct.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A striking pair of David-Andersen sterling silver double-sided cufflinks, the faces decorated with guilloche enamel in a translucent deep red shade. The underlying engine-turned engraving is in a sunburst pattern. The hinged connectors are marked with appropriate sterling silver hallmarks and the maker’s mark used from 1925.

• Origin: Norway, ca. 1930.
• Face Dimensions: 31/32” x 15/16”.
• Weight: 11.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; tiny age-appropriate surface wear visible under 10x magnification.

A very good Retro tank ring worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and natural sapphires (natural sapphires in a Retro ring are rather unusual). The larger diamonds (.40 ct, .25 ct, and .25 ct) are all old European cuts. The smaller stones are single cuts. The ring is broad across the finger and is laid out in a very geometric style typical of tank jewelry. The diamonds I color and VS2 clarity. The sapphires show no indication of heat treatment. It is very uncommon to have natural colored stones in a piece or Retro jewelry. The back of the shank is stamped with French import marks for 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” x 5/8”; shank tapers to 7/32” at the back
• Weight: 11.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, .44 carat.

A 14K gold and natural ruby Retro figural brooch worked in fashioned as a stem of cherries. The fruit are fully three-dimensional and set with round unheated natural rubies. The design is finished with a gnarly branch and a pair of gold leaves. The rubies have fine clarity and intense color, without the pinkish cast frequently seen in rubies in Retro pieces. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked “14K”.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3-3/16” x 1-7/8”
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 4.2 carats
• Weight: 28.0 grams

A lovely antique 14K yellow gold floral wide band depicting twining branches of roses, each set with a ruby at the center of the petals. The flowers are separated by round brilliant cut diamonds. The band is finished with scalloped edges. The diamonds range from SI1 to I1 with G color. As is typical of the wartime period, the gold has generous weight and the rubies are synthetic. The interior is stamped with “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1945
• Condition: very good, typical surface wear to rubies
• Finger Size: 6
• Dimensions: 3/8” wide
• Weight: 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; diamond, .18 carat