Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A delightful Imperial Austrian silver brooch set with three reverse-carved Essex crystals by the Imperial jeweler Georg Adam Scheid. The domed pin is finely engraved in a basket-weave motif and is pierced by three Essex crystals, each depicting a lap dog, perhaps a Pekingese. The dogs are well carved and colored, with tiny blue bows under their chins. The crystals never had a mother-of-pearl backing like those produced in England and France. Except in France, Essex crystals were not widely used in Continental European jewelry. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The hinge is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks for 800 silver and with Scheid’s hallmark. The brooch retains its patina, but could be polished if desired.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1880. Condition: all original, silver is excellent, some wear to the paint on the crystals. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 8.3 gr.

Very fine pair of late Art Noveau 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The faces show a beautifully designed young woman's face stylized wisps of hair cascading around a porthole-like frame. The design is really superb. The connectors open so the cufflinks are easy to put on. The backs are marked with French 18K import marks. The rather severely stylized design suggests that they are of Belgian or German (possibly Austrian) origin.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A fascinating pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with square rock crystals. The crystals have concave circles in the center and the edges are finished with an oxidized surface that gives the impression of hematite. The clear circles reveal quirky, almost cartoon-like portraits of dogs that have very rigid demeanors like those often seen in 19th century portraits of people. These are not to be confused with reverse-carved Essex crystals. These cufflinks are made in an entirely different way and we’ve never seen a pair like them. The square faces are linked with chains to gold baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one dog is turned slightly sideways, but it appears to have always been that way. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.9 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces with engine-turned engraving in a swag pattern around cornflower-blue sapphires. The gold has a very nice dark, rich patina. The connectors are marked by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and are stamped for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A sophisticated 18K gold necklace, the baton links enhanced with black and white en plein enamel. The batons are separated by seed pearls that reappear as a band across the middle of the teardrop-shaped onyx pendant. The pendant hangs from the clasp, so the necklace can be worn alone or with the pendant. Both the clasp and the mounting of the pendant are stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: very good, some enamel nicks on the baton links visible with a loupe, but none show the underlying gold
• Dimensions: chain length, 20”; pendant length, 1-1/16”
• Weight: 14.9 grams

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A pair of silver egg-shaped earrings decorated with ornate floral guilloche engraving below translucent golden enamel. The enamel gives the appearance that the eggs are constructed entirely of gold. The ridge around the center of each egg was left unenameled for color contrast. The upper half of each egg is set with an old European cut diamond. The 14K gold wires are possibly original, but more likely replacements. The bail of each egg is stamped with illegible hallmarks. Purchased in Paris.

• Origin: Russia, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide; 3/4" long (excluding wires)
• Weight: 7.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A very elegant pair of double-sided Edwardian cufflinks in 14K yellow, rose and white gold. The faces have engine-turned stripes in alternating colors surrounded by a yellow gold border of laurel leaves. One face of each pair has a square reserve for a monogram (never used). The cufflinks are stamped with an unidentified maker’s mark “T14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Dimensions: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 9.6 grams.

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A superb dress set, comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, by Tiffany & Co. Each face is fashioned from a disc of abalone centering a old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The borders of the faces are worked in platinum enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, VS clarity. The abalone has deep luster with strong overtones of iridescent red, green and orange. Cufflinks made from abablone are much less common than those made from gray or white mother-of-pearl. The added sparkle from the engraved platinum contrasts nicely. The backs and findings are worked in 14K yellow gold, but only the platinum shows when being worn. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co./14K” and “Plat. & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 13.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A stunning platinum lavaliere and rose cut diamond necklace from the Belle Epoque (Edwardian period). The platinum chain transitions at the middle to rows of rose cut diamonds in millgrained platinum collets separated by knife-edge spackers that meet in a matching inverted pear-shaped plaque set with a large pear-shaped rose cut diamond. A second smaller diamond below exaggerates the pear-shaped motif. The plaque in turn suspends a rose of individually-hinged rose cut diamonds before terminating in another large round diamond enhanced with a halo of smaller diamonds. The diamonds have excellent clarity for rose cuts and have a bright white sparkle in daylight and warmth in dimmer lighting. The necklace is stamped in multiple placed with French platinum marks. The necklace is presented in its original fitted blue leather box lined in blue velvet and cream silk. Delicate necklaces suspending small pendants came into fashion in the 17th century and were named after Louis XIV’s last mistress la Comtesse Louise de la Vallière.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent; the spring ring clasp is silver; binding tape repair to box hinge
• Dimensions: 15-7/8” long; 1-15-32” drop length
• Weight: 7.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.53 carats (the face-up appearance of the stones is close to 3 carats)

An elegant pair of Edwardian sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with purple guilloche enamel accented with a border of opaque white enamel. The backs are stamped "Sterling."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 23/32" x 7/16" (18 x 11 mm)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A very heavy late Victorian 14K rose gold watch chain completed with a matching t-bar. The curb link chain is completed with a t-bar, a dog clip, and a 1-1/2” length of chain to suspend a fob. The chain is stamped repeatedly with the Imperial Russian mark for 56 zolotnik gold (a tad purer than 14K) used 1898-1908.

• Origin: Russia, 1898-1908
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 12-3/8” long (dog clip to t-bar); 1-1/2” long (suspension bail to fob bail)
• Weight: 50.2 grams

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with blister pearls, by Carrington. The pearls have very lustrous surfaces with good iridescence and are simply set in gold frames. These cufflinks would look particularly good worn with a dark shirt. The backs are stamped with Carrington's 14K gold mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 3/4" x 9/16"; back faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 7.5 grams.

Edwardian enameled 14K gold “bean-back” cufflinks. The faces are decorated with elegant engine-turned engraving and a wide border of opaque white enamel. The shanks are marked for gold content, and also for the maker, Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Co. (1909-15) of Newark, NJ.

Origin: America, 1909-15. Condition: faces are excellent with no damage to enamel; the “bean” backs have the usual light dings from normal wear and one shank is slightly bent (does not affect wearability, stability or appearance). Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A very attractive pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold, the oval faces decorated in an ornate engine-turned design that looks a bit like a Maltese cross. The interplay of the engraved and polished surfaces are particularly nice. The backs are marked “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Wordley, Alsopp & Bliss.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.7 grams

A stunning and very heavy late Victorian 18K yellow gold fob chain and watch chain. The chain is a wonderfully complex snake-like combination of plain links intertwined with heavily chased links. The edges of the fob are decorated with a matching chased design. The fob has never been monogrammed. The clasp is marked with Continental 18K gold hallmarks.

Ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: overall length, 5-3/8”; fob, 15/16” x 13/16” x 15/32”. Weight: 24.5 grams.