Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved bi-color watermelon tourmaline in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The colors of the tourmaline are nicely contrasting an dhighly saturated. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. The interior of the shank is signed "Burle Marx/18K" and "Ind Bras/GB/791".

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.

An outstanding pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the simple oval faces set alternately with round rubies and old European cut diamonds. The faces are joined by unusual arched connectors that give the cufflinks a nice, comfortable spread to fit the wrist. The cufflinks may be worn with either the diamond or the ruby sides showing outward. The gemstones are of fine quality. The diamonds are graded as G color with SI2 clarity; and the rubies as medium-toned, moderately-strong slightly purplish-red color (slpR 5/4) with eye-clean clarity. The connectors are fully hallmarked by Bippart, Griscom and Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 19 mm (9/16 x 3/4 in). Weight: 14.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; ruby, .31 ct.

A fine pair of double-faced cufflinks fashioned from large South Sea black pearls set in 18K yellow gold. The pearls, with excellent luster and only very lightly blemished surfaces, are graded as AA quality. Their body color is grayish-silver with rose and faint green overtones. South Sea pearls of this dark color are especially attractive for men’s jewelry and look good with a wide range of shirt colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.1 gr.

A set of three 14K white gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl shirt studs by Larter. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl discs, each centering a round diamond and surrounded by an ornate beaded border with additional diamonds. The backs are hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9 mm (11/32 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 ct. Weight: 4.1 gr.

NOTE: We also have a pair of cufflinks by Carrington (Item #1233390) that, although not a perfect match to these studs, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set. See the last photo for more information.

An extremely attractive pair of 14K white gold cufflinks by Carrington. Each round face is set with a mother-of-pearl disc engraved in a laurel wreath pattern, surrounding a center round diamond and bordered with 24 rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, graded as I/J color and SI2 clarity. The faces are attached by chains to heavy torpedo backs. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 16 mm (5/8 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct. Weight: 12.0 gr.

NOTE: We also have a set of three shirt studs by Krementz (Item #1233392) that, although not a perfect match to the cufflinks, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set.

A fine pair of modernist 18K yellow gold earclips by Burle Marx set with intricately carved amethysts in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stones. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The backs of the earrings are signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”. The earrings have clip mechanisms, but posts could easily be added without disturbing the integrity of the earrings.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching ring (Item #1233380).

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of the amethyst is deep purple and is nicely even throughout the stone. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx’s pieces. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx/750” and “Ind Bras/GB/791”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 23 mm (3/4 x 29/32 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 14.1 gr.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1233381).

A pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the faces set with very fine reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting foxes. The designs are deeply carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The foxes’ mouths, particular, are very well done. The crystals are backed with mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K/Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.

A nice pair of 18K yellow gold dumbbell cufflinks, each of the faces in the form of a knot. The solid connectors are arch to fit the cuff correctly. Marked “18K” and with the hallmark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13mm diameter. Weight: 7.1 gr.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold charm or pendant in the Sputnik style, bezel-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines and garnets. The design was created by H Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each Sputnik piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific combination and placement of the various gemstones. This particular example has strong contrasts between the darkest and lightest stones. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings. Pendants and charms, especially large ones that are fully spherical, are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 6.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.98 ct.

A terrific pair of French silver cufflinks, one face of each cufflink designed in a classic knot style, and the other end set with a green chalcedony carved to resemble a golf ball. The cufflinks are very versatile and can be worn with either the silver or the green faces showing. They’re very similar in style to the golf ball cufflinks designed by Hermès. The connectors are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the mark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 10mm diameter. Weight: 13.7 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces facet engraved in a diamond pattern. The intersections of the engraved lines are set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires have medium-light violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 15x19mm. Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A fine 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover chased with an ornate scrolling pattern centering a large fleur-de-lis, itself set with an old European diamond. The diamond is well-cut and is graded as J color, SI1 clarity. The back cover has a period monogram "F to J". The interior retains both of the original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 5.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces fashioned as large round discs enhanced with concentric rings set off to one side. Though these cufflinks date to the early 1950s, the design is very much in the Art Deco taste. The faces are connected to toggle backs. Each cufflink is marked "14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/4" diameter. Weight: 13.8 grams.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, fashioned as a comet, each of the heads set with a cabochon pink tourmaline and the tails set with a string of graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as J color, SI2 clarity. Comet jewelry has been intermittently popular since the early 19th century, and it usually appears on the scene around the same time as a close encounter with a major comet such as Halley's, which appeared in 1986. These cufflinks roughly date to that period. The backs are marked "18K" and have a maker's mark that appears to be that of Goodman & Co. of Indianapolis.

Origin: America, ca. 1986. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1/2". Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; tourmaline, 4.88 ct.

A handsome pair of 18K white gold cufflinks, the faces set with octagonal mother-of-pearl plaques centered by small square blue sapphires. The mother-of-pearl surfaces are finely crosshatched to match the engraving of the gold at the corners. The faces are joined by chains. Marked "18Ct."

Origin: England, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/16" x 7/16". Weight: 7.0 grams

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold mesh cufflinks, the faces set with large amethysts cut into sugarloaf cabochons. Mesh cufflinks, intended to wrap around the outside edge of the cuff were quite popular in the 1950s and it was a style favored by Meister—one of Switzerland’s most exclusive jewelers. The amethysts are of very fine quality, graded as dark vivid Purple in color (P7/6) with eye-clean clarity and excellent symmetry and polish. The faces are backed by snap mechanisms that hold the cufflinks in place. The mesh is constructed of very fine links for a smooth, flexible feel. Each cufflink is marked “Meister” and “EM 750”.

Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 11 x 14 mm. Weight: 24.29 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 27.72 cts.

A very fine dress set, comprising a pair of barbell cufflinks and four shirt studs fashioned from large South Sea black pearls set in 18K yellow gold. The pearls in the cufflinks are approximate 12.9mm and those in the studs are approximately 10.6mm. The pearls, with good luster and surface condition, are graded as AA quality. The body color of the cufflink pearls are grayish-silver with rose overtones and the stud pearls are blackish-silver with rose and green overtones. Lighter pearls are not often used for men’s jewelry, but the rich coloring and subtle overtones of these pearls creates a very masculine appeal. Louis Tamis & Sons opened his studio in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other objects. In the 1930s, he manufactured for Paul Flato. Since the middle of the century, the company has become one of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers—creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as a small collection of jewelry under its own name. Each of the cufflinks and studs is marked “18K” and has Tamis’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Weight: 21.g grams.

A wonderful pair of Victorian cufflinks, the faces fashioned as bloodstone (heliotrope) spheres encircled by gold snakes. The stones are nicely mottled with red and green colors and spin freely on their axes. The snakes circle around the bloodstones at the equator and their heads rise up over the top. The gold is finished in the slightly matte “Russian finish” often used in Art Nouveau jewelry and the snakes are lightly engraved with scaly details. The faces are attached by arched connectors to bean backs. In Victorian symbology, snakes represented eternal love. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, .5 x .5 inches. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A classic pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval amethyst cabochons. The amethysts have strong, even color and superb clarity. The faces are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 23.24 cts.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co., Paris. The square front faces and rectangular back faces are worked in a fine 3-over-1 basket weave pattern. The deep recesses of the pattern were only lightly polished to heighten the three-dimensional quality of the design. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are signed "Tiffany & Co./France/Or 18K" and have the jeweler's inventory numbers. They are also marked with full French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 13x13mm; back faces, 7.5x12.5mm. Weight: 14.3 gr.

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

A fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold double-sided baton cufflinks. The unusual reeded end-caps echo the center ring on each baton, giving this pair a more sophisticated appearance than most baton cufflinks. The faces are connected by heavy chains. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 3/4" long. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A nice pair of 14K white gold modernist cufflinks, the Florentined surfaces star-set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires are accented with bright-cut engraving to add a little more sparkle to the matte finish of the gold. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” x 1-7/16”. Weight: 13.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .22 carat.

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A lovely 14K yellow gold pendant necklace, the scrolling elements enhanced with translucent enamel in the Newark style and centering a bezel-set oval pink tourmaline. The pendant suspends a baroque freshwater pearl flanked by two pink tourmaline briolette drops. The overall appearance is very pastel and lovely. The back of the pendant is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Ehrlich & Sinnock.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: necklace length, 17”; pendant, 1” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 4.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, 1.0 carat.

A stylish sterling silver pendant and chain by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. The bottle can be worn either empty as a sculptural piece of jewelry or as a vase with a single, delicate flower. Both the pendant and chain are signed Peretti and are fully hallmarked by Tiffany. This piece is the middle of the three available sizes and currently retails for $550.

Size: pendant, 1-3/4” x 1-1/2”; chain, 25” long. Weight: 18.6 grams.

A very nice pair of Victorian cufflinks, the rectangular faces with canted corners and decorated with a plain band bisecting a field decorated with rococo foliate engraving. This is a design type more often seen on English cufflinks of the period, and it has a faintly heraldic appearance. The plain band, in fact, would have been ideal for a monogram. The connectors are marked 14K and also have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Howe.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogramed. Dimensions: 11/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A very good Victorian 18K gold watch fob worked with yellow, green and rose gold in an ornate rose pattern and mounted with an oval faceted citrine. The blossoms and foliage completely encircle the domed mounting decorated with stippled engraving. The fob hangs from an ornate foliate scroll. The gemstone in a fob such as this would often have been engraved with a monogram for use as a letter seal, but this citrine was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" x 5/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 8.0 cts.

A fine pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Krementz, both the front and back faces with repousse decoration of a roaring lion’s head. The backs are more typically plain bean-backs rather than decorated. The cufflinks are marked with Krementz’ 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 3/4"; back faces, 3/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.0 grams.

An attractive pair of mid-20th century cufflinks the faces designed as clusters of baroque freshwater pearls overlaid with gold bands centering rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearls have lustrous surfaces, but their craggy shapes give them a more masculine appeal. The gold bands are enhanced with stippled engraving for added texture, and the small diamonds add a little sparkle without being overwhelming. The cufflinks are heavy and are very well constructed. These look particularly good worn with medium-blue or dark-colored shirts. The toggles are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2” x 3/4". Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .18 carat.

An interesting interpretation of the Art Deco stirrup style for cufflinks, this set features broad gold bands hinged at the top of the arch. The sides snap together and when being worn, the cufflinks circle around the outside of the cuff. The cufflinks are enhanced with a deeply engraved basketweave design. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” x 1”. Weight: 14.4 grams.

A nice 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an ornate scene of two hunting hounds sniffing through tall grass for their prey. A picket fence can be seen in the background and then a sky lightly engraved with clouds and a sun or moon represented by a star-set old mine cut diamond. The back of the locket has a nice 3-letter monogram (“MAC”) original to the period. The interior retains its original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter, excluding bail. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.