Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A marvelous pair of Retro Moderne 18K yellow gold dress clips formed as a bouquet of diamond-studded platinum flowers, the stems tied with a ribbon set with calibre-cut rubies, all against a scrolled gold background. Buds represented by diamonds set in platinum and rubies set in gold are scattered around the flowers. The design is quite sophisticated and the stones are of very nice quality. The clips are perfectly sized—one worn alone isn’t so small that it gets lost, but the two worn together aren’t overwhelming, either. The pair can be worn on jacket lapels or on either side of a dress neckline. The backs retain the original hinged double-prong coat clip and anchor pin often seen on better French jewelry of the period. A good jeweler could convert the clips to be worn as either pierced or clip-back earrings. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1940.

Condition: excellent, all original.

Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4".

Weight: 16.5 grams.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .9 carat; ruby, .6 carat.

A very handsome pair of 14K yellow gold and onyx cufflinks with a matching tie pin by K. Uyeda. The oval onyx faces are topped with oval, gold pyramids. The gold surfaces are intricately decorated with engine-turned engraving in a basketweave pattern. The connectors are marked in the traditional Japanese manner, "K14". The set is presented in its original velvet and silk box from K. Uyeda. Located in Tokyo's Imperial Hotel, Uyeda is one of Japan's most exclusive jewelers, and all their products are of the very finest quality. The catch on the tie pin is not gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980.

Condition: excellent, all original.

Size: cufflink faces, 5/8" x 1/2"; tie pin, 1/2" diameter.

A nice pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with blue sapphire cabochons. The rectangular faces are engraved in a sunburst pattern, with one end rolled over. A round cabochon sapphire is set in to each end of the opening created by the rolled edge. The stones have fine slightly violet-blue color and good clarity. The backs have toggle closures. The cufflinks are not signed, but are almost certainly by either Larter or Krementz. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 ct. Weight: 10.2 gr.

A very nice pair of 18K yellow gold baton cufflinks, the batons worked with engraved reeding and each bound in a diagonal slash of gold with a hand-stippled surface. The baton faces are hinged so they can lie tightly against the cuff. The connectors are marked “18K Cherny”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8” long. Weight: 10.6 gr.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "stirrup" style popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s. The cufflinks are constructed from a solid bar, finished at each end with interlocking arches. By pulling on the ends, the arches can be unfolded for each in putting the cufflinks through the cuff holes. Then, a simple flip up causes the arches to hold the fabric tightly together. Cufflinks of the sort are seen in a number of variations, but this is a particularly handsome pair. The bars are marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, and also with an unidentified maker's mark "GP".

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 3/4" x 9/16". Weight: 11.5 grams.

A fine pair of Victorian bean-back cufflinks, each oval face set with a round color-change sapphire flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds. The sapphires change from blue in sunlight to violet in incandescent light. One stone exhibits a more pronounced color change than the other. This is normal because of the difficulty in matching a pair of stones for size, clarity and color under varying lighting conditions. The diamonds are fine quality with bright color. The gold surfaces have the softly-bloomed matte texture prized in the Art Nouveau era. The bean backs have original bright-cut monograms. Marked “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .44 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold rectangular cufflinks, each face engraved in a starburst pattern emanating from a bezel-set round diamond. The diamonds are I/J color, VS2 clarity. The backs are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” x 1/2”. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are accented with sunburst engraving and are centered by round mixed-cut blue sapphires. The sapphires are very slightly greenish-blue in color, with dark tone and moderately strong saturation. They have excellent clarity. The toggles are marked “14K” and the toggles are marked “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: very good, light abrasions to the faces consistent with normal use. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 15.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .65 ct.

A lovely 14K yellow gold 5mm cable twist bracelet with a gem-set station from the “Renaissance” collection by David Yurman. The square station features a square step-cut rhodolite garnet flanked with cabochon emeralds at the top and bottom. This design is one of the earlier pieces from the Renaissance collection, and is no longer in production. The open cuff is flexible and can be spread to fit nearly any size wrist. The interior of the bangle is signed “D. Yurman 14K”.

Origin: America. Size: 5mm diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, .79 ct; emerald, .26 ct.

A terrific pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each fashioned as a pair of ridged spheres topped with round sapphires. The gemstones have a nice medium-light violet-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 7/16". Weight: 6.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .392 carat.

An extraordinarily fine Victorian 14K yellow gold and enamel pocket watch chain in the Aesthetic style. The heavy chain comprises ribbed open links joined by doubly-interlocking textured open links. Near each end, the chain is set with a shell-motif bead accented with opaque black taille d’epargne enamel. The original t-bar is heavily decorated with acanthus leaves and geometric motifs typical of the Aesthetic era, all enhanced with enamel. At 15-1/4” long, the chain is just long enough to be worn about the neck as a short necklace or doubled twice at the wrist as a bracelet. And of course, it can still be used with a pocket watch and fob. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, enamel intact. Size: 15-1/4” long. Weight: 27.0 gr.

A classic, heavy pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces finished in a simple reeded platinum border. Each face is centered with an old European cut diamond (G/H; VVS2). The backs are marked “Gold & Plat” (tested 14K) and have the maker’s mark for Carrington.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 11/16” x 15/32”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 carat
• Weight: 13.0 grams

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant and brooch worked in 10K yellow gold. The back retains the original findings including a watch hook. Marked with Larter’s hallmark and “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7/8” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant and brooch worked in 10K yellow gold. The back retains the original findings including a watch hook. Marked “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 27/32” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A lovely antique 14K yellow gold floral wide band depicting twining branches of roses, each set with a ruby at the center of the petals. The flowers are separated by round brilliant cut diamonds. The band is finished with scalloped edges. The diamonds range from SI1 to I1 with G color. As is typical of the wartime period, the gold has generous weight and the rubies are synthetic. The interior is stamped with “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1945
• Condition: very good, typical surface wear to rubies
• Finger Size: 6
• Dimensions: 3/8” wide
• Weight: 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; diamond, .18 carat

An impressively sized 14K gold locket ornately decorated in the Etruscan style with rosettes, shaped appliques, and rope twists. The center features a bouquet worked with rose gold foliage and platinum blossoms and buds. Exposed areas of gold have a soft bloomed finish. The back features an oval hinged locket opening. The locket retains the original matching bail. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1860
• Condition: excellent, a few very minor dings on the back locket cover
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 2-5/8 long (including bail)
• Weight: 18.0 grams

A very nice Imperial Austrian 18K yellow gold brooch set with a reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting a pansy. Essex crystals with flower themes are very rare. In Victorian floriography, the pansy represented "think of me." The flower is beautifully colored. The crystal is set in a simple twisted rope frame. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. These could easily be removed and replaced with a pendant bail. The clasp is stamped with Austrian hallmarks used toward the end of the Imperial era.

• Origin: Austria, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.5 grams