Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

An attractive pair of late Victorian sterling silver cufflinks decorated with Classical medallion in the Shiebler style. The medallions depict a Greco-Roman youth and maiden. The edges are irregularly beveled to suggest antiquity. The faces are connected to baton-style backs decorated a simple foliate pattern. The connectors are marked “Sterling.”

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a target motif of diamonds, rubies and platinum. The cushion cut rubies have nicely-saturated bright color that contrasts well with the old mine cut diamonds at the centers. Chains connect the faces to platinum and gold torpedo backs, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The faces are marked “18” and have an unidentified European hallmark.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 ct; ruby, .62 ct.

An unusual 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik design by H Stern. Most examples of Sputnik jewelry are set with multi-colored gemstones, but occasionally a piece turns up with a single color—in the case amethyst. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the colored gemstones available from the Stern mines in Brazil. It later earned the nickname “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.51 cts.

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, the ends formed from lapis spheres carved in a traditional braided knot pattern. The gold connectors are decorated with a twist motif. The lapis has a evenly-distributed dark violetish-blue color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” long; beads, 11mm diameter. Weight: 9.0 gr.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum pendant in the form of a rose set with old mine cut, old European cut, single cut and pear cut diamonds. The design is delicately worked in a sort of stencil effect, the negative spaces between diamond-set areas appearing as the veins of leaves or the deeper recesses of the rose blossom. The center of the rose is set with a .96-ct pear shaped diamond, H/VVS2. The smaller diamonds are well-matched in the H range SI clarity. A diamond-set leaf-shaped bail completes the design. The mounting is stamped with European platinum marks.

Origin: Europe, possibly Poland, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/4" x 1-3/16". Weight: 9.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.6 cts (.96 ct pear).

A superb and witty pair of 14K yellow and rose gold cufflinks in the shape of a cocktail glass. The bowl and foot are worked in yellow gold and the stem in pink gold. Looking inside the bowls, there's a little surprise--bright coral cherries with rose gold stems! These are possibly the most unique Deco figural cufflinks we have found. Each cufflink is stamped with a variation of the Carter, Gough & Howe hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: bowl, 9/16" diam; foot, 3/8" diam; 11/16" tall. Weight: 7.9 gr.

A magnificent Art Deco 18K white gold ring set with a 1.49-ct Burmese ruby surrounded by round diamonds. The ruby has a pure, vivid red color and eye-clean clarity. There are no indications of heat or other treatment. The back of the mounting is enhanced with a pierced gallery and geometric engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, SI clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are also presenting matching earrings (Item #1306948).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 1/2". Finger Size: 5-1/4. Weight: 2.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.49 cts; diamond, .54 ct.

A magnificent pair of Art Deco 18K white gold earrings set with diamonds and Burma rubies. The oval brilliant cut rubies have pure, vivid red color and good clarity. The do not show indication of heat or other enhancement. The rubies are surrounded by a border of round diamonds intersected by a double band of diamonds on either side of the ruby. These hang freely from a surmount fashioned by a trilliant cut diamond suspending round diamonds set into a triangular plaque echoing the shape of the trilliants. The mountings have a double gallery and the backs surrounding the ruby drops are engraved in a geometric pattern. The .21-ct trilliants are graded as E color, SI1 clarity and the smaller diamonds are G-H color, SI1-I1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are presenting the matching ring (Item #1306951).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 1-3/8"; maximum width, 1/2". Weight: 4.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.5 cts; diamond, 1.74 cts.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the heavy oval faces gypsy-set with variously cut fancy colored sapphires. One cufflink features a medium-tone blue sapphire in a radiant cut, flanked by two round brilliant cut sapphires—one a pale greyish-blue and the other an orangy-yellow. The other cufflink has a pale blue oval sapphire flanked by a pair of vivid blue round sapphires. The faces are connected to toggle backs. The cufflinks are stamped "14K" and also have an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.26 cts.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved amethyst in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The amethyst's deep purple color beautifully contrasts with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Marx did not always sign his pieces; this ring was either unsigned or the signature was removed when the ring was resized at the back of the shank.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, the ring has been sized at the back of the shank. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 1" x 9/16"; shank tapers to 3/16" at the back. Weight: 15.3 gr.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco earrings featuring faceted onyx rings suspended from platinum and yellow gold surmounts set with rose cut diamonds. Each onyx ring encloses a platinum element with rose-cut diamonds set in a foliate pattern and further suspending a prong-set old European cut diamond. All the parts are fully articulated, so the earrings have a lot of movement. The platinum is finely millegrained. The center diamonds are I color, SI2 clarity. The earrings retain their original level backs. The earrings are stamped with French gold and platinum marks that were used for goods imported from the U.S.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long; 1” wide. Weight: 8.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 ct.

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

An impressive cocktail ring worked in 18K white gold and featuring multi-colored pearls set with diamonds. The pearls, ranging in size from 4.2 to 8.4 mm, are in at least eight distinctly identifiable shades including cream, rose, steel grey, aubergine, and lavender. The surfaces have good luster and are graded as AA1. Round brilliant diamonds, graded as I color and SI1 clarity are sprinkled among the pearls, as are leaves of white gold. The design is finished in spots with ribbons of diamond-set gold. The shank is pierced in a scroll pattern on either side of the crown. The interior of the shank is stamped for 18K gold, has a serial number and an unidentified maker’s mark.

Ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” diameter. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Weight: 18.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .6 ct.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and amber earrings, the square cabochon amber simply set in the gold frame. The prongs holding the amber become an important part of the overall design. The amber has fine, even coloring with a tinge of red, and superb clarity. The backs are stamped for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Laboratorio Ruber, Milan.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1-5/32” long to top of wire. Weight: 15.4 gr.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.