Catalog (2467)

A very fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with rubies by Carrington for Tiffany & Co. The square faces feature rounded gold ridges typical of “tank” jewelry from around 1935, flanked by rows of square cut rubies. The rubies are unheated and have inclusions typical of stones from the Mogok region of Burma. The rubies are beautifully matched and have strong red coloring with slight purplish overtones. The faces are joined by bar connectors. Each face is stamped with Carrington’s 14K gold mark, and each of the connectors is stamped Tiffany & Co. Much of Tiffany’s better-quality jewelry was manufactured by the great Newark jewelers such as Carrington. Sometimes, pieces are marked only by Tiffany, and other times they are marked by Tiffany and the manufacturer.

• Origin: America, ca 1935
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2” x 1/2"
• Weight: 17.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.32 carats

An elegant boxed set of gilt sterling silver demitasse spoons with fox head finials. Each spoon is stamped with the hallmark for William Suckling. Each is also stamped “Swaine & Adeney,” one of London’s most exclusive luxury goods shops for more than 270 years. The spoons are presented in their original velvet- and silk-lined fitted case. An extra spoon, apparently from a second box, is included.

• Origin: Birmingham, England, 1938
• Condition: excellent, gilding intact; box shows typical wear
• Dimensions: spoons, 3-13/16” long
• Weight: 84.3 grams.

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. set with square cut sapphires. The cufflinks are fashioned in a sort of modified belt buckle motif. The sapphires have very good uniform color and show no indication of heat treatment. The backs are stamped Tiffany & Co. and also have the manufacturing jeweler’s mark for Larter.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 13.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.0 carat

A French Art Deco cocktail pick set in the form of a large chrome snail on a mahogany base. The design is by the famed French Art Deco children’s books illustrator Benjamin Rabier, who had a side job designing entertaining barware. The twelve picks have red bakelite finials that resemble cherries. Cocktail pick holders (“porte-piques”) were once a fixture of every Parisian bar and café. Today, they are used in home bars to spear olives, cherries or onions in a cocktail, or so serve small hors d’eouvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, no chrome loss, a tiny bit of scuffing on the wood finish
• Dimensions: 4-7/8” x 2-1/2” x 4-1/2”

A superb Retro 14K gold ring in the form of a buckle set with round brilliant cut diamonds and calibre cut natural rubies. The design is enhanced with a prong-set .65 carat diamond solitaire. The diamond is G/H color and VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds are of similar quality. All the diamonds are set in platinum. The rubies have fine color and excellent color. The interior of the shank is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 17/16” and sits 1/4” high above the finger
• Finger Size: 6-1/2
• Weight: 9.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: diamond, 1.05 carats; ruby, .66 carat

An excellent late Victorian silver baton link watch chain, the batons decorated with niello in a striped pattern echoed in the striped niello of the dog clip and large bolt clasp. The silver batons are joined by shorter gilt silver double baton links. The chain is stamped “800” and with the Swiss silver hallmark used prior to 1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all niello intact except wear to the niello on the dog clip
• Length: 17-1/8”
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A nice Art Deco cocktail pick set formed as a dark red bakelite cherry atop a rosewood base holding six bright red bakelite cherry-finial picks. The cocktail pick holder (“porte-piques”) was once a fixture of every French bar or café, as well as private bars in the home. Today, they can be used for their original purpose or to serve small hors d’oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent, minor wear to the finish along the lower edge of one side of the base
• Dimensions: 2-5/8” x 2-5/8” x 4”

For anniversary or wedding jewelry, there’s nothing more romantic than Alphonse Augis’ love token jewelry. Usually, they are round medallions, but this exceptionally rare piece is in the form of a love letter using a rebus to spell out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow,” a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand, author of “Cyrano de Bergerac” in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. Augis created the love token in 1907, and this is the only example we’ve seen in a love letter form. The pendant is stamped with Augis’ maker’s mark and with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 25/32” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A colorful green and white bakelite die holds a set of six chrome and bakelite dice picks in this Art Deco set. The cocktail pick holder (“porte-piques”) was once a fixture of every French bar or café. Today they can be used to spear cocktail olives, cherries or onions, or to serve small hors d’oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: very good, the white pick is likely an early replacement
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-3/8” x 4"

A rare large silver plate double jigger by Napier. The larger end is marked of in one-ounce increments up to four ounces and the smaller end at 1-1/2 and 2-1/2 ounces. Both ends have a small pour lips to prevent dripping. The interior is marked “Napier Pat. Pend.” Napier began producing barware after being inspired by the 1925 World’s Fair in Paris that showcased Art Deco luxury and continued until the U.S.’s entry into World War II.

• Origin: America, 1925-41
• Condition: excellent, minor wear to interior, no plating wear to exterior
• Dimensions: 4-1/4” tall, 2-9/16” wide

A rare French Art Deco cocktail pick set (“porte-piques”) depicting Aesop’s fable about the raven and the fox. The fox praised the raven so much that the bird opened its mouth to sing and dropped its lunch right into the fox’s waiting mouth. The moral: beware of flattery. This set was likely designed by the French children’s illustrator Banjamin Rabier who enjoyed a sideline designing barware. Pick sets such as this were once a fixture on every Parisian bar counter and today, they can be used at home for cocktails or to serve small hors d’oeuvres.

• Origin: France, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5-7/8” x 2-7/16” x 5-3/16”

A superb 14K gold hinged bangle featuring a graduated row of oval brilliant cut amethysts with a pair of round brilliant diamonds separating each stone. The amethysts are of exceptional quality rivalling the finest Siberian stones mined in the 19th century. They have a deeply saturated violet color and show no color zoning. The diamonds are estimated at G color, VVS2 clarity and are set in white gold to further enhance their sparkle. The clasp is stamped 14K. The safety chain has a clasp so the bracelet can be opened fully for ease of putting on and taking off.

• Origin: America, ca. 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide tapering to 7/32” at the back; 6-1/2” circumference
• Weight: 28.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.99 carats; diamond, .60 carats

Superb Retro 18K yellow gold and platinum duette brooch set wtih diamonds and rubies. The design is an exciting overlap of scrolled gold ribbons, the ends accented with platinum and pave-set with round-cut diamonds. The center of the brooch is set with a cluster of prong-set round-cut rubies. The back of the brooch features a mechanism that allows the piece two be disassembled into two separate smaller pins. This "duette" mechanism was used only on the finest pieces during the Retro period. Often, the pair of smaller pins would be worn on either lapel, or sometimes just one pin would be used when a more delicate look was needed. The quality of workmanship is excellent. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-9/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 37.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.2 carats; ruby, 1.5 carats.

Handsome pair of large cobalt glass oval open salt dishes in pierced sterling silver holders. The bottoms are hallmarked by Watrous.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 3-3/16" x 2-1/4" x 1-1/16" tall.

Very nice pair of early toggle-back 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each set with an old European cut diamond. The edges of the faces have a foliate design surrounded a textured center featuring a ribbed collet-set diamond. The stones are very nice quality with excellent clarity and bright color. The backs marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 10.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 carat.

Vintage pair of sterling silver screwback earrings set with 5mm and 6mm Mikimoto pearls. This is the classic style produced by Mikimoto in the mid-20th century—beautiful pearls set in the simplest possible way so that the pearls take center stage. The pearl quality is very nice—estimated at A+. They have an ivory body color with rose overtones and the luster is bright. The backs are marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/32” x 7/32”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

Superb and very rare copper bowl in the form of three bound leaves by acclaimed silversmith Alfredo Sciarrotta. Most of Sciarrotta’s work was in sterling silver, but he did make a limited line of copper and brass wares early in his career. The designer’s work is instantly recognizable from the quality of workmanship, the heaviness of the material, and of course the naturalistic shapes accented with delicately curling edges and engraved veining. The copper dishes have more realistic appearance than the works in silver, with more detail along the edges of the leaves and in the veining. The dish is raised on three brass ball feet.

Sciarrotta was smuggled out of Italy into the US during World War II to work on submarine technology. Afterwards he settled in Newport, RI and created a small line of hand-made sterling silver hollowware. These were retailed in his own shop and eventually by a few select stores including Shreve Crump & Low, Gorham, Bailey Banks & Biddle, and Cartier. This copper example has the earlier and less common hallmark that Sciarrotta used only at his own studio. Sciarrotta’s designs are in several museum collections including the Smithsonian.

Origin: America, ca. 1948. Condition: excellent, no dings or monograms, excellent patina. Size: 9-7/8” diameter; 3-1/8” tall. Weight: 565.0 grams.

A lovely 14K yellow gold round brooch featuring a reverse-carved intaglio of a marlin or swordfish. The fish, recently hooked, is pictured leaping high above the waves. The crystal is nicely painted and retains its bright coloring. The crystal is set in a sunburst frame. Essex crystals first became popular during the Victorian era and usually featured sporting animals such as horses, foxes and fish, or domestic pets. They continued to be popular through the Edwardian period, but few were made after World War II. The back of the pin is marked “14K” and has the maker’s name “Crossroads”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940s. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/32” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A beautiful 14K yellow gold floral pin by Tiffany & Co. Pointed, swirled petals surround a central diamond and blue sapphire cluster. The prong-set, brilliant-cut stones have excellent bright color and clarity as expected of Tiffany. This brooch is an excellent example of the sort of stylized floral gem-set designed that Tiffany produced for daywear toward the end of the retro period and in the very early 1950s. The back is marked “14K” and “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-3/4”. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, .28 carat.

PLEASE NOTE: We are also offering the matching earclips (Item #490782).

Elegant Retro 18K yellow and white gold brooch in the form of a phoenix--the mythological bird that arises from the ashes. The wings are beautifully formed from ribbons of gold that give the effect of trailing plumage. The body and crested head are fashioned from white gold and are pavé-set with 55 rose-cut diamonds. The white gold not only highlights the diamonds, but also provides a nice contrast with the yellow gold feathers. The eye represented by a brilliant-cut ruby. The brooch has nice depth and flow to the design. The back is stamped with French "tête d'aigle" 18K gold hallmarks, and with an unidentified maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-7/8" x 1-7/8". Weight: 21.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.1 carats; ruby, .05 carat.

A beautiful set of six silverplated scallop shell dishes by Tiffany & Co. The dishes are worked with wonderful detail—even the feet have a decorative treatment similar to snail shells. These dishes are perfect for butter, mints, nuts, or even individual servings of cocktail sauce. The bottoms are marked “Tiffany & Co/Makers/Silver-Soldered”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, no plating wear. Size: 3-13/32” x 4-5/8” x 1-3/16” high.

An elegant Retro Moderne 14K yellow gold brooch in a stylized bow form, the center set with a large emerald-cut citrine of medium honey color, and the loops sprinkled with round brilliant-cut rubies. Some Retro pieces can be overly heavy, but this pin has a pleasant lightness despite its large size. The gemstones are of fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3” x 1”. Weight: 15.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; citrine, 10.4 carats.

Very nice, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks that resemble a link taken from a large chain. One cross-end is fixed, but the other is hinged so the cufflinks can pass through the hole. These cufflinks look very stylish streamlined appearance when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 3/4". Weight: 14.0 grams.

A superb pair of 18K gold earrings from the Retro period. Each earring is shaped as a pair of golden flowers, the centers collet-set with old European-cut diamonds. They are also designed so that they could be worn as dress clips on either side of the neckline. The flower stems are gathered with double ribbons set with square-cut rubies. The diamonds have very nice color, probably in the G-H range, and good clarity estimated at SI2. The rubies have intense color that contrasts beautifully with the gold. The backs retain the original earclips with small hollowed out areas that can accommodate a small piece of cork, rubber or wax to cushion the clip. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/4". Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .4 carat; ruby, .22 carat.

A very fine Retro Moderne brooch in the form of a three-leaf clover, each leaf fashioned from an heart-shaped aquamarine, and centered with a pearl. The aquamarines are simply framed in gold collet settings with halo wirework accented with beading. The stones, 1.33 carats on either side and 1.87 carats at the top, have stunning pure blue coloring without a hint of gray. The 5.5mm pearl has an ivory body color with rosé overtones, and a very nice, lustrous surface. The back of the brooch retains the original pinstem and safety clasp, and is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: Excellent, all original. Size: 15/16” x 1-7/32”. Weight: 4.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.53 carats.

An elegant Retro 14K yellow gold floral brooch, the flower head set with a ring of blue sapphires surrounding a cabochon moonstone. This classic combination of moonstone and sapphire was very popular in Retro jewelry, probably because the color of sapphires brings out the blue undertones of moonstone. The quality of the stones is very fine. The sapphires are a bright cornflower blue, and the moonstone has very good adularescence. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 13.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, .88 carat; sapphire, .43 carat.

A very handsomely decorated set of 12 sterling silver demitasse spoons. The handles are finely decorated with a cast and pierced stylized bellflower. The swirling character of the finial design nicely contrasts with the more angular line of the lower handles and the oval bowls. The backs are fully marked with Swedish hallmarks for 830 silver, including the town mark for Norberg.

Origin: Sweden, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original, no monograms. Size: 4-1/16" long. Weight: 92.0 grams.

A beautiful and rare Retro 14K yellow and white gold floral brooch featuring carved jadeite leaves and a carved rock crystal blossom. The rock crystal has an opalescent quality that appears much like moonstone. Both the front and back surfaces are finely engraved to suggest floral textures. The jade is brightly colored and contrasts nicely with the golden stems and leaves. The back is marked “14K”. Carved gemstone floral pins are quite uncommon.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-11/16” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.0 grams.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A magnificent pair of Retro leaf-shaped earrings and a matching brooch by Cartier. The leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and are exquisitely detailed with delicate veining against a softly bloomed matte finish. The stems are worked in palladium, a metal from the platinum group that was used during World War II when platinum was banned from use in jewelry. The stems are bead-set with round single- and brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, as expected in vintage Cartier. The brooch has a hinged double pinstem and small safety hooks. The earrings retain their original clip backs with the hinged comfort tabs. The brooch is signed "Cartier" and is marked "18K". The earrings are signed "Cartier", are marked "18K" and "Pal" and have the design serial numbers.

Origin: French design (probably retailed in NY), ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Size: brooch, 1-29/32" x 1-3/4"; earrings, 1-1/16" x 25/32". Weight: brooch, 21.1 grams; earrings, 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A Retro 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising hinged links set with amethysts alternating with diamond-set links. The oval mixed-cut amethysts have medium-dark, vivid reddish-purple color and are well-matched. The small old European and brilliant cut round diamonds add a restrained bit of sparkle. The amethysts are set in a way that makes them appear the float in the larger gold links, creating a sense of lightness in the bracelet. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/4” long, 3/8” wide. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 ct; amethyst, 14.0 cts.

A very fine five-piece 14K yellow gold and sapphire dress set by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each piece is fashioned as a reeded baton circled by a collar of channel-set blue sapphires. The sapphires are of superb slightly violetish-blue color, with medium tone and vivid saturation. One baton on each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting them through the cuff. Each shirt stud is signed "VCA NY", and is stamped with the serial number and "14K". The cufflinks are marked only "14K". Van Cleef employed several jewelers to manufacture their designs during this era, and it's not uncommon to find sets in which not every piece is marked by VCA.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, large faces, 15/16" long; small faces, 7/8" long; studs, 9/16" long. Weight: 24.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.37 carats.

A nice vintage tie bar in a bamboo pattern by Tiffany & Co. The bar is worked in 14K yellow gold, and each end features a blue sapphire cabochon collet set in platinum. The small amount of platinum contrasts nicely with the deep blue of the sapphires. The bamboo design was reworked in the 1960's and became one of Tiffany's most successful sterling silver flatware designs. Its use in jewelry, however, is uncommon. The relatively short length works perfectly with the narrow width of today's ties. The back is marked "Tiffany & Co. 14K."

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-15/16" long. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A sterling silver double jigger in International's classic1939 Art Deco "Royal Danish" pattern. The jigger is marked with one of International's older hallmarks. The double jiggers in this pattern are difficult to find.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: very good, one pinpoint to the side and a few pinpoints on the rim visible upon close inspection, no monogram. Weight: 65.5 grams. Size: 4-9/32" tall.