Catalog (2449)

A beautiful set of six sterling pastry or cake forks designed by Bernard Cuzner for Liberty & Co. in 1923. The handles are elegantly enhanced with blue and green champleve enamel in a sort of peacock feather design. Cuzner was Liberty’s most influential silver designer in the 1920s. This set is fully hallmarked by Liberty and has the date mark for 1928. They are presented in their original silk-lined fitted case.

• Origin: England, 1928
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, very minor wear to the case
• Dimensions: 5-1/8” long
• Weight: 86.3 grams

A set of three classic 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl shirt studs by Larter. The mother of pearl has particularly nice iridescent coloring. The simple design allows them to be worn with a variety of cufflinks, as well. Each stud is marked 14K and has the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A pair of truly exceptional Shakudo cufflinks, the faces being a matched pair of mixed-metal plaques representing all the signs of the Chinese and Japanese Zodiac, including tigers, boars, dragons, rats, roosters, rabbits, snakes, oxen, dogs, monkeys, sheep and horses. The detail work is amazing and the design is one of the most complex we've seen. The plaques are mounted on custom-fitted 950 silver backs with toggle mechanisms. The shakudo plaques date to the 19th century Meiji period and the silver fittings are around 1950.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, original patina, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 12.2 grams.

Terrific enameled sherry bottle/decanter label. The enamel is applied over metal and has polychrome floral decoration. The chain is brass.

Origin: probably English, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 2.5" x 1/5".

Sterling silver watch fob by George W. Shiebler. An outstanding example of the "Medallion" or "Curio Medallion" line, this watch fob is comprised of a horizontal log-like bar inscribed with the Greek letters "XAPIE" suspending five discs depicting Greek gods and goddesses. Pictured from left they are Zeus, unknown, Pallas Athena, unknown, and Mercury. The two unknown images are female and probably depict Aphrodite, Hera or Demeter. The surfaces are hand worked and intentionally "distressed" so that the piece appears to truly be an ancient jewel. The handmade chain is original to the fob. The back is stamped with Shiebler's hallmark, the retailer's mark for Bailey, Banks & Biddle, and the pattern number "1043". All Shiebler Medallion pieces are rare, but this is the first complete watch fob we've seen. It could be extended with a few links to be worn as a bracelet.

Origin: America, 1880-90. Condition: all original, light wear from normal use. Size: fob, 1-3/4" x 1-7/16"; overall length, 6-9/16". Weight: 18.5 grams.

A very rare sterling silver chamber stick in a repousse floral pattern by Shiebler. The overall floral decoration depicts buds and full-blown rose blossoms against a background of leaves. Areas between the leaves are finished with a stippled texture. The knop of the candle socket and the bobeche are plain and make a nice contrast to the elaborate decoration. The thumbpiece is accented with a fan-shaped element that is suggestive of Shiebler’s more Aesthetic-style pieces. The bottom of the bobeche is stamped with Shiebler’s hallmark, the pattern number 1174, and the retailer’s mark “J. E. Caldwell & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a small rim ding and a couple of pinpoints on the bobeche. Size: 6” diameter; 3-1/2” tall. Weight: 211.0 grams.

A fine pair of mid-19th century 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks set with banded agate and gold-bearing quartz. The quartz is generously spotted with gold, showing only isolated areas of creamy white quartz, and the agate is nicely patterned with even bands of cream, brown and tan. Shreve & Co. was one of the first fine jewelers in San Francisco, capitalizing on the new wealth generated by the California Gold Rush. By the mid-1880’s, the store advertised its selection of jewelry made with gold bearing quartz, and it became a specialty. Today, gold quartz pieces—especially those marked by Shreve—are difficult to find. Each cufflink is signed “Shreve & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 17/32” x 7/32”.

A beautiful sterling silver vase in the Art Nouveau taste by Shreve & Co. The sinuous trumpet form body is decorated with gorgeous applied silver iris blossoms and buds accented with engraved foliage. The body rises to a ruffled rim that mimics the curvy lines of the floral decoration. The foot is decorated at compass points with iris blossoms, their stems forming the rolled bottom edge. The bottom is hallmarked by Shreve & Co. with the post-1894 mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings, no monograms. Size: 12-3/16” tall. Weight: 526.0 grams.

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

A very good cut glass vase by Clark in the "Iris" pattern. The lower third and the flared rim are cut with elongated hobstars flanked by mitred triangles of strawberry diamond cutting enhanced with fans; and the neck is cut with panels of printies alternating with notched prisms. The base is cut with a 20-point hobstar and has Clark’s script acid signature. The pattern is either "Iris" or a variant of “American Beauty”. The cutting is very precise and the polish is excellent.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, a small nick to only one tooth at the rim. Size: 10-1/4” tall.

A lovely art glass cabinet vase with cameo decoration in the “Thistle” pattern by Daum. The glass has elegant mottled coloring with dark peach and amber. The rim and foot are enhanced with gilt edging. The bottom of the base is signed in gilt script and bears the cross of Lorraine. This example is finely carved and makes very nice use of the layers of color.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, very minor wear the gilding along the foot and rim. Size: 4-5/8” tall.

A magnificent set of cufflinks the five shirt studs worked in 18K yellow and white gold set with diamonds. The face of each cufflink and stud is formed as a white gold star surrounded by a foliate and beaded yellow gold border. The stars are set with brilliant round-cut diamonds of extremely fine quality, estimated at F color, VSI clarity. The outer gold edges have fine saw-pierced galleries. The backs of the cufflinks have a toggle closure and the studs have double-folding flanges. This set is most unusual in that it includes five shirt studs. The quality of workmanship is at a level of the most exclusive makers. The presence of five studs indicates that the set was probably a custom order, since most formal shirts have only three or four holes for studs. The advantage of the fifth stud, of course, is that if you lose one of the others you have a ready replacement! The yellow gold is intensely yellow—a shade not usually achieved below 20K. Each piece is marked “750” for 18K gold and is signed “DIF”.

Origin: probably European, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 25.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.25 carats.

A superb pair of double-sided Art Deco silver cufflinks by E. Besseire & Cie. The hexagonal faces are decorated with red, green and black blocks of opaque champlevé enamels highlighted with silver shield-shaped and squiggle accents. The faces are connected bychains. The backs of each face are marked with Besseire’s maker’s mark and with assay marks for silver.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage (the green enamel has some porosity visible under magnification that is original to the making). Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams.

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

A classic pair of heavy 18K yellow gold earrings by Gucci. The earrings are in a triangular shape with gently rounded corners and are worked in an open basketweave pattern. The design incorporates both matte and polished surfaces to create a greater sense of depth. The earrings retain their original Omega clips, but the posts could easily be removed for wear as earclips. Each earring is marked 18K and is signed “Gucci”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A fine glass cocktail shaker by Hawkes. The glass blank is blown in an optic paneled style and highlighted with gilding at the neck. The body is beautifully enameled with a colorful rooster and the reverse side is engraved with the recipe for a "Bronx" cocktail. The stopper is finished with floral intaglio engraving. The The double-lip form of the shaker is very similar to the shape Hawkes used for oil & vinegar cruets. The base and stopper are signed with Hawkes' acid-etched trefoil mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks; a small moon on the lower edge of the stopper. Size: 11" tall.

A stunning footed cut glass compote in Hawkes’ “Delft Diamond” pattern. While the pattern is not especially ornate, the deep emerald green color of the blank is amazing. The knopped stem has an elongated airtrap bubble that’s difficult to see because the color of the glass is so rich. The plain round foot is acid-stamped with Hawkes’ trefoil signature, which would suggest a relatively early date.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, normal frosting to bottom of base. Size: 8-1/8” diameter; 6-3/4” high.