Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A magnificent late Georgian multi-colored 18-22K gold bracelet comprising ten heavily detailed plaques. Each primary plaque, in the form of scallop shells in a cruciform arrangement with a large multi-tiered rosette at the center set with an old mine cut diamond. Each primary plaque is set at the corners with antique cushion cut Colombian emeralds. The secondary plaques have floral and acorn decoration and smaller rosettes centering old mine cut diamonds. The gold is very subtly colored, with the rosettes being just a shade pinker than the surrounding gold. The smaller rosettes are enhanced underneath the petals with small floral sprays worked in green and rose gold. The surface decoration is simply exquisite. The diamonds are J color, SI1 clarity and have very good brilliance. The emeralds have intense pure green coloring and fine clarity. The bracelet is entirely original, including the box clasp. Testing indicates that the gold content is somewhere between 18K and 22K.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1835. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 62.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.75 cts; emerald, 1.24 cts.

An exceptional pair of Art Deco platinum, emerald, diamond and onyx cufflinks by Cartier. Each face is made from a melon-carved emerald bead dating to India's Mughal Empire (17th/18th centuries), topped with a round onyx disk centered with an old European cut diamond. The emeralds, variously weighing approximately 5.94, 5.49, 4.53 and 4.20 carats, totalling just over 20 carats. The emeralds have a strong green color with natural inclusions characteristic of the Chivor mines in Colombia. The diamonds are graded as F color, VVS clarity. The faces are joined with removable dog clip connectors. The fixed mountings are marked with the workshop master's mark used in the 1920s and French platinum marks and are signed “Cartier.” The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted, silk- and velvet-lined, fitted leather case.

Jacques Cartier was one of the first European jewelers to travel to India and to acquire antique emerald, ruby and sapphire beads from the maharajahs. These stones were re-set in Cartier's Paris workrooms. One of the most important commissions using carved Mughal beads was a brooch for Marjorie Merriweather Post. That brooch features emeralds carved in the same shape as those in these cufflinks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: faces, approximately 7/16" diameter
• Condition: excellent; emeralds have surface wear consistent with 300-400 years of use as jewelry
• Weight: 8.4 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; emerald, 20.16 carats

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each of the faces is designed as seed cluster similar to a thistle or the middle of a black-eyed Susan. During the 1960s, VCA excelled in naturalistic motifs interpreted in finely worked gold. These were a reaction to the glamorous diamond and gemstone-encrusted creations of the 1950s. Understated designs worked in yellow gold, which had not been widely used since the 1940s, were embraced by the leading French joailliers and were considered the height of fashion. The craftsmanship and overall design of these cufflinks is understated, but quite elegant. Even the chain connectors are worked with beveled links instead of the more common and easily-made rounded links. The cufflinks are marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/750/B3231". They also have a copyright mark for 1965 and all the appropriate French hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/16 diameter. Weight: 9.6 grams.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A wonderfully witty 14K gold tie bar in the form of a snow ski by Tiffany & Co. As expected of a mid-century Tiffany design, the workmanship is very finely detailed and executed right down to the details of the bindings. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram “WLT” and is also marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 2-11/16” x 5/16” (front width). Weight: 6.2 grams.

An exquisite pair of Art Deco heavy 18K yellow gold snap cufflinks. Each round face is designed as a lion’s head superimposed over the classic French sunburst motif that made a reappearance in the decorative arts during the Art Deco period. The quality of workmanship is superb, with outstanding detailing in the design. Gold snap cufflinks are quite uncommon. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K “tete d’aigle” gold hallmarks and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 17.0 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

A magnificent pair of Art Deco 18K white gold earrings set with diamonds and Burma rubies. The oval brilliant cut rubies have pure, vivid red color and good clarity. The do not show indication of heat or other enhancement. The rubies are surrounded by a border of round diamonds intersected by a double band of diamonds on either side of the ruby. These hang freely from a surmount fashioned by a trilliant cut diamond suspending round diamonds set into a triangular plaque echoing the shape of the trilliants. The mountings have a double gallery and the backs surrounding the ruby drops are engraved in a geometric pattern. The .21-ct trilliants are graded as E color, SI1 clarity and the smaller diamonds are G-H color, SI1-I1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are presenting the matching ring (Item #1306951).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 1-3/8"; maximum width, 1/2". Weight: 4.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.5 cts; diamond, 1.74 cts.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

A very uncommon pair of 14K yellow gold stirrup-style flip-up cufflinks, with one face of each set with a golf-themed reverse-carved Essex crystal. The golfers depicted in each crystal are wearing old-fashioned golf clothing. These are the first Essex cufflinks we’ve encountered in the flip-up style. The connectors are stamped “14Kâ€. They are likely by Krementz or Larter.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; no moisture damage or scratches to crystals. Dimensions: faces, 19/32†diameter. Weight: 11.5 gr.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A wonderful Art Deco 14K yellow gold baton-link long chain, studded at intervals with oval moss agate cabochons. The long chain was a traditional Victorian style, but in this case was updated by replacing the usual small links with long baton-style links. The resulting linear look would have been considered much more modern and stylish. The links are interrupted by nine 7.5x9.0mm moss agate cabochons. The gemstones have very nice medium- to dark-green lacy moss-like inclusions against the colorless transparent background. Notice that the stones are set closer together toward the middle of the chain, and farther apart toward the ends. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 28” long. Weight: 18.9 grams.

A superb Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with a scene depicting a maiden in flowing drapery amidst a rose garden with Classical ruins in the background. A cherub reaches down to touch her shoulder. The upper edge is set with a fine 5-pt ruby of slightly purplish-red color. Locket designs of this complexity are quite uncommon. The back cover is engraved "Aunt Dora to Dora 1906". The interior is marked "14K".

Origin: America, 1906. Condition: excellent, one pinpoint ding on back cover. Size: 1-3/16" diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold dome earrings studded with bezel-set tourmaline, topaz, garnet, citrine and aquamarine. This style was popularized by H Stern in the 1950’s and was used to show off the variety of gemstones available from the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design was eventually called “Sputnik”. The style was mostly used for rings, but also for pendants, charms and earrings. Earrings are quite uncommon. The earrings retain the original post-and-clip backs, but the posts could be removed if desired. The clips are marked “MN 750”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.36 cts.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A beautiful pair of heavy 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks by Larter, each face featuring a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The faces are worked with engine-turned engraving in a complex sunburst and floral pattern, while the platinum borders are engraved in a beaded pattern against a stippled background. Even the hinged bridge connectors are beautifully engraved. The diamonds are of nice quality and good color. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .392 carat.

A wonderful Art & Crafts sterling silver bracelet by the Kalo Workshop of Chicago. The bracelet is formed of six plaques, each centering an oval buff-cut citrine. The plaques are somewhat diamond-shaped, with beadwork at either end, and are joined by double oval links. The citrines have very dark amber coloring, with superb evenness and clarity. The smooth domed tops reflect the faceted cutting on the bottoms of the stones to very nice effect. The clasp is finished with a simple domed silver cabochon. The back of the clasp is stamped “Hand Wrought Sterling Kalo”. Kalo pieces set with gemstones are particularly rare.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A superb dress set, comprising a pair of cufflinks and three shirt studs, by Tiffany & Co. Each face is fashioned from a disc of abalone centering a old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The borders of the faces are worked in platinum enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The diamonds are G-H color, VS clarity. The abalone has deep luster with strong overtones of iridescent red, green and orange. Cufflinks made from abablone are much less common than those made from gray or white mother-of-pearl. The added sparkle from the engraved platinum contrasts nicely. The backs and findings are worked in 14K yellow gold, but only the platinum shows when being worn. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co./14K” and “Plat. & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 13.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

An outstanding Victorian Arts & Crafts long chain fashioned from a series of oval cut colored gemstones in graduating sizes, each bezel-set in 14K yellow gold and joined to one another with very delicate handmade gold links. The selection of stones includes amethyst, citrine, topaz, aquamarine, almandine garnet, hessonite grosularite garnet, pink tourmaline, green tourmaline, and smoky quartz. The chain is an amazing 78 inches (6-1/2 feet) long and can be worn draped around the neck at various lengths. Long chains without clasps and are difficult to wear around the wrist, but this example can be wound about ten times around the wrist for wear as a stunning bracelet. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 78 inches long. Weight: 31.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 94.6 cts.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the square faces in a basketweave pattern. Each open square is filled with a prong-set brilliant round cut blue sapphire. The sapphires are a medium-blue color with eye-clean clarity. The stones are nicely cut for maximum light return and have excellent brilliance as a result. The exposed gold surfaces have a finely engraved Florentine finish. The hinged backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 16.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.612 cts.

A heavy, outstanding pair of Victorian figural cufflinks in the form of acorns and oak branches, all worked in 14K yellow gold. The larger front faces are fashioned as highly detailed acorns, while the backs are branches. The quality of engraving is excellent and really brings out the subtlest textural details. In the Victorian "language of flowers", the acorn symbolized life and immortality while the oak tree and its branches represented strength and virility. The faces are joined by their original chain connectors. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: acorns, 27/32" x 15/32". Weight: 11.7 grams.

A stunning platinum and 18K yellow gold eternity band set with diamonds in the "Estelle" design by Van Cleef & Arpels. These rings are made only by special order, and the wait time is a minimum of three months. The classic design is named for Estelle Arpels whose 1896 marriage to Alfred Van Cleef gave rise to the luxury jewelry house. The 10-point brilliant cut round diamonds are bead-set in a platinum band flanked on either side by a beaded yellow gold edge. As expected of VCA, the diamonds are of superb quality, estimated at F color, VVS2 clarity. The eternity band design is a classic and can be worn as a wedding ring or simply as a designer ring. The interior of the band is signed "VCA NY" and has the serial number "5V263.6

VCA quotes a price for Estelle rings only at the time of order, and the price fluctuates depending upon the carat weight , which in turn fluctuates based on the size of the ring and client's wishes. The Estelle ring set with slightly less than 1.0 carats last retailed at $6,500. A 2-carat would be roughly in the $12,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Size: 1/4" wide. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.1 carats.

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A very good pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Alfred Dunhill. The faces resemble branches of coral. Dunhill produces the vast majority of its cufflinks in sterling silver and the 18K gold versions are very rare. The coral design, in general, is hard to find because it was made for only a short time around 2005. The cufflinks are constructed with the connector set off-center, so the link lies flat against the cuff. The toggle back is Dunhill’s classic small toggle with the company’s insignia. The connectors are fully stamped with English convention hallmarks for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Dunhill.

Origin: England, ca. 2005. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4". Weight: 17.6 grams.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The spheres are collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around central aquamarines set at the tops of the domes. This design was originally created by H Stern in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. These earrings have a bright appearance with strong aquamarines and light pink tourmalines. The earrings retain their original clips which could easily be replaced with posts, if desired. The earrings are unsigned, but most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.50 carats.

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

A very fine and heavy pair of vintage cufflinks featuring square faces worked in 18K yellow gold basketweave pattern with white gold accents. The faces are bordered with channel-set square cut sapphires. The stones are fine quality and are graded at medium dark, vivid blue in color, very good cut, and eye-clean clarity. The backs are hinged for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff and are designed in a basketweave pattern matching the fronts. The connectors are marked with French 18K gold export hallmarks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 19/32” x 19/32”. Weight: 13.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.34 carats.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings designed by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. These “Hoop” earrings are from the “Equus” line, one of the six original lines Gehry created in 2006. There were two different earring designs in the Equus line, this style being the more uncommon. The earrings are bead-set with round brilliant cut diamonds one side. They can be worn with the diamonds showing outward, or reversed to show the plain gold side. The diamonds are estimated at G/VVS quality, and are 2.5 points each. The “Equus” line is no longer available from Tiffany. Each earring is marked “T & Co./Gehry/750”.

In 2006, Gehry became the first designer allowed to sign his own works for Tiffany since Paloma Picasso in 1980. Gehry’s designs draw on his expertise as one of the 20th Century’s greatest architects. The “Equus” line is based on the abstract, undulating “horse head” motif that appears in some of his buildings, most notably the auditorium inside the DG Bank headquarters in Berlin.

Origin: America, ca. 2006. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” long. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat.

A stunning 18K white gold and blue sapphire ring from the "Paris Nouvelle Vague" collection launched by Cartier in 1999. The collection was inspired by the dynamism of the City of Paris. The ring is designed as an unending double spiral of white gold with one loop extended into an oval. The band crosses over at the top and is set with a row of eleven vivid pure blue round brilliant-cut sapphires. The interior of the shank is signed "Cartier" and is marked "750" for 18K gold and "55" for the size. It is also marked with the serial number 34958B" and with "tete d'aigle" marks for 18K gold. The ring is presented in its original red leather and suede fitted box imprinted Cartier and includes the original matching outer box. This ring is no longer available at Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1999. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2 to 8. Dimensions: width varies from 3/16" to 3/8". Weight: 15.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.06 carats.

An unusual pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces featuring cabochon cut aventurine glass (goldstone) set in 18K yellow gold bezels. The faces are connected by gold chains to torpedo backs, also worked in aventurine glass. Aventurine glass was invented in Venice in the 1600s, and enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the 1920s. The mountings are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: round faces, 7/16 in. diameter; torpedoes, 7/8 in. long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

An exceptional pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carrington. Each of the cufflinks features one face centered with an old European cut diamond and on face with a round cut blue sapphire. The stones are surrounded by a band of opaque royal blue champlevé enamel enclosed within a laurel wreath border. This design is really one of the most elegantly sophisticated we’ve seen any of the classic Newark makers. The gemstones are of very good color and clarity. The backs are marked 14K and have Carrington’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 19/32” diameter. Weight: 9.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .18 carat; sapphire, .23 carat.

A stunning pair of platinum and 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds and rubies by Tiffany & Co. Each earring features four marquise cut diamonds set in the traditional “Victoria” crossed pattern, suspending a prong-set round mixed-cut ruby. The diamonds are set in platinum, while the rubies are set in 18K yellow gold, as tradition dictates. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The rubies, of equally superb quality, are graded as medium vivid red color (R 5/6), excellent cut, and Type II eye-clean clarity. The quality of the rubies suggests they are Burmese in origin. Tiffany has not sold Burmese gems since 2003, so earrings such as these cannot be replaced. The posts are marked “T&Co PT950”. Victoria earrings, set only with diamonds, are currently available at Tiffany for $4650 (.72 ct) and $6500 (1.28 ct).

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32” x 5/16”. Weight: 3.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .98 ct; ruby, .88 ct.

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with black harlequin opals (probably doublets) of exceptional quality in simple millegrain borders. The simplicity of the setting allows the opals to display their superb play-of-color. Virtually every color of the spectrum is visible in the opals, but with a preponderance of red, orange, green and violet. The backs are marked "18Ct Britannic", a high-end English maker of gold and platinum cufflinks and watch bands in the 1930s.

Origin: England, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 9.9 gr.

A very fine five-piece 14K yellow gold and sapphire dress set by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each piece is fashioned as a reeded baton circled by a collar of channel-set blue sapphires. The sapphires are of superb slightly violetish-blue color, with medium tone and vivid saturation. One baton on each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting them through the cuff. Each shirt stud is signed "VCA NY", and is stamped with the serial number and "14K". The cufflinks are marked only "14K". Van Cleef employed several jewelers to manufacture their designs during this era, and it's not uncommon to find sets in which not every piece is marked by VCA.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, large faces, 15/16" long; small faces, 7/8" long; studs, 9/16" long. Weight: 24.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.37 carats.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around a central aquamarine set at the top of the dome. This design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has particularly nice warm tones—reds, pinks and dark oranges. The ring is unsigned, but is most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; one garnet toward the edge has a small flake visible with 10x magnification. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.64 carats.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the square faces highlighted with a hammered texture and star-set with very good quality antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. One pair is diamond and ruby and the other is diamond and sapphire. The stones show no indications of heat treatment. The ruby and sapphire are most likely from Burma and Ceylon, respectively. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 6.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 ct; ruby, .05 ct; sapphire, .05 ct.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

An extraordinary pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the shape of thistles. The leaves and choke of the thistle are bead-set with round cut emeralds, while the blossoms are set with pale round cut amethysts. The emeralds, though small, have medium-dark tone, intensely saturated green color. Though the individual stones are small, the strength of color creates a very good appearance, and there is no sign of treatment. The faces are connected by chains to ropetwist baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 13.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, .48 ct; emerald, 1.08 cts.

A lovely Victorian tortoise shell pique pendant in a heart shape. The puffed surface is worked with gold and silver inlay in an ornate floral pattern within a scalloped inlaid border. The pattern of two flowers joined together by a ribbon, and of course, the overall heart shape suggest that the pendant would have been given as a love token. The tortoise has very nice markings and translucency when held to the light.

Origin: America or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, no inlay loss, no chipping or cracking, (the line visible in the last image is a surface scratch only--not a crack). Size: 1-1/16” x 1-3/16”.

An attractive pair of Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces decorated with a repousse design featuring a lion’s head. The great cat’s mouth is open in mid-roar and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with sinuous grasses that mimic the lion’s flowing mane. The backs are marked “10K H.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1/2" x 3/4". Weight: 4.1 grams.

An extremely rare French 18K gold stick pin, the head set with reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting the historic first airplane crossing of the English Channel by Louis Bleriot in 1909. Transportation-themed Essex crystal jewelry is very rare, but those clearly linked to a specific vehicle or event are truly exceptional. The colors of the painting are vibrant and there is no sign of moisture damage. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1909. Condition: excellent. Size: head, 11/16” diameter; overall length, 3”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

A terrific pair of French silver cufflinks, one face of each cufflink designed in a classic knot style, and the other end set with a green chalcedony carved to resemble a golf ball. The cufflinks are very versatile and can be worn with either the silver or the green faces showing. They’re very similar in style to the golf ball cufflinks designed by Hermès. The connectors are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the mark of an unidentified maker.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 10mm diameter. Weight: 13.7 gr.

A fascinating pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with square rock crystals. The crystals have concave circles in the center and the edges are finished with an oxidized surface that gives the impression of hematite. The clear circles reveal quirky, almost cartoon-like portraits of dogs that have very rigid demeanors like those often seen in 19th century portraits of people. These are not to be confused with reverse-carved Essex crystals. These cufflinks are made in an entirely different way and we’ve never seen a pair like them. The square faces are linked with chains to gold baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one dog is turned slightly sideways, but it appears to have always been that way. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.9 grams.

A very nice pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) popularized by Cartier. During the war years, even the most exclusive European jewelers frequently used synthetic rubies and sapphires because natural material simply wasn’t available. The square cut stones are channel set along the sides of the cufflinks, and a single stone is collet-set at either end of the closing mechanism. When being worn, the band of rubies goes fully around the outsides of the shirt cuff. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.52 cts.

A superb Art Deco platinum ring set with a cat’s-eye chrysoberyl cabochon flanked at each shoulder by a row of square step-cut diamonds. The chrysoberyl is of the finest quality, with a strong well-centered white eye against a strongly greenish-yellow background—precisely the combination that yields the desirable “milk and honey” effect. The cabochon is nicely cut and has very good symmetry. The diamonds are of exceptional quality, with D/E color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The platinum mounting has a matte finish that nicely accents the stones. The interior of the shank is marked “Irid Plat”.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: crown, 9/16” wide. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: chrysoberyl, 4.00 cts; diamond, .468 ct.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, almandite garnet, aquamarine, amethyst and citrine. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and even how they are arranged in relation to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Soviet satellite. The earrings originally had posts which have been removed, leaving only the clips. Posts could be added again quite easily. The backs are signed by Stern and are marked “750” and “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.37 carats (tourmaline, 4.25 cts; almandite garnet 2.87 cts; citrine, 2.75 cts; aquamarine, 1.40 cts; amethyst, 1.10 cts).

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A superb and witty pair of 14K yellow and rose gold cufflinks in the shape of a cocktail glass. The bowl and foot are worked in yellow gold and the stem in pink gold. Looking inside the bowls, there's a little surprise--bright coral cherries with rose gold stems! These are possibly the most unique Deco figural cufflinks we have found. Each cufflink is stamped with a variation of the Carter, Gough & Howe hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: bowl, 9/16" diam; foot, 3/8" diam; 11/16" tall. Weight: 7.9 gr.