Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A beautiful double-strand pearl and 18K yellow gold bracelet by Mikimoto. The bracelet comprises 48 pearls, graded as fine AA. The pearls are 6.5 to 7.00 mm. The color is medium cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the nacre is of medium thickness. The pearls are beautifully matched, as would be expected of Mikimoto. The strands are separated by two gold station spacers and are completed with an 18K yellow gold box clasp with repousse floral decoration and a 4.2 mm pearl. The clasp is fully hallmarked for 18K and is signed with Mikimoto’s oyster shell hallmark. The strand is accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $4,650.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent, no pearl damage, secure stringing. Size: 7-1/4” long.

Elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Saffo" pattern from the "Greca" line by Versace. The wide gold band is solid in the back, but the front is pierced in a classic Greek key pattern. The pierced area is pavé-set with 59 round brilliant-cut diamonds (G/VVS2). Prior to his death in 1997, Gianni Versace created a limited line of fine jewelry, and this particular design appeared as rings, bracelets and earrings. The back of the band is signed "VERSACE" and the interior is marked with Italian 18K gold hallmarks. The ring is accompanied with its original embossed leather presentation box and the original paperboard outer box. The original retail price of this ring was $4,050.

Origin: Italy, 1995. Condition: mint. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Size: 3/8" wide. Weight: 8.0 grams. Total Diamond Weight: .71 carat.

A classically elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and blue sapphire cufflinks in a highly-functional “wrap-around” style. The cufflinks comprise a doubled length of Russian braid chain that passes through the cuff hole and attaches on the other side to the solid clasp. The chains are comfortable to wear, flexing easily, but staying firmly closed from the tension of the cuff fabric. The clasps are set at either end with a rich blue sapphire cabochon. Each cufflink is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks, the master goldsmith’s mark and a serial number, and is signed “Boucheron.”

• Origin: France, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: clasp length 15/16”; chain diameter, 3mm.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.68 carats.
• Weight: 14.6 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with oval amethysts in collet settings. The chain can be worn at its full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 14.1 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.9 carats

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with round brilliant cut amethysts in collet settings. The necklace is completed with a dog clip clasp. The chain can be worn at is full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 16.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.6 carats

An extraordinary pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, the faces featuring flowers bearing a secret message. In Victorian symbology, the daisy represented "innocence" or "purity", whereas the red poppy meant "pleasure". Taken together, the choice of flowers in these cufflinks was certainly intended to convey an erotic sentiment. The faces are beautifully hand-pierced and highlighted with translucent enamels in delicate shades of green, rosy red and whitish-yellow. The exposed areas of gold are worked in the semi-matte Russian finish popular in better quality Art Nouveau jewels. Each face is marked with the "tete d'aigle" for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; a couple of extremely minor enamel flakes under magnification. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A substantial pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the oval faces inset with a mother-of-pearl plaque centering a bezel-set round brilliant diamond of approximately .6 carat. The outer edges of the faces is finished in a border of small round diamonds. The hinges and either end of the back closures are finished with spessartite garnet cabochons. The diamonds are G color, I1 clarity.

Ca. 1980's. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 13/16" x 5/8". Weight: 18.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 cts; garnet, .70 ct.

An elegant vintage Tiffany & Co. diamond ring from the "Vannerie" collection. The domed band is worked in a woven motif bisected with a slash of round brilliant cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded G/VVS2. The interior of the shank is marked "Tiffany & Co. 750 1989."

• Origin: America, 1989
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at front tapering to 1/4" at back
• Finger Size: 8-1/4
• Weight: 13.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat.
• Condition: excellent; typical surface wear at the back of the shank

A pair of high quality 1960s French 18K gold earrings featuring cabochons of ruby, sapphire and emerald nestled in a spiky gold design the resembles chestnuts as they burst from their shells at the peak of ripeness. The gemstones are intensely saturated in pure tones of red, blue and green. The earrings bear French hallmarks for 18K gold and have an unidentified maker's mark "Ste EUR". The earrings have clip backs, but the levers have an opening so posts could be added, if desired.

• France, circa 1960
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1" x 1 3/8"
• 19.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.52 carats; sapphire, 1.40 carats; emerald, .82 carat

A stunning pair of 18K yellow and white gold earrings by Faraone in cooperation with Tiffany & Co. The yellow gold half-hoops are accented with white gold "stems" that burst open flowers set with marquise cut rubies. The rubies have fine slightly purplish-red color saturation. Intact inclusions indicate that the rubies are unheated. Faraone was one of the oldest jewelers in Italy, serving as court jeweler to the Royal household and to luminaries such as Maria Callas. The Settepasse family, Faraone's owners, joined forces with Tiffany in 1960 to manage Tiffany's European expansion. The companies jointly owned two boutiques in Milan and Florence. The earrings are signed by both Faraone and Tiffany, are marked for 18K gold, and have English import marks for 1990.

• Origin: Italy, 1990
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 15/16"; width, 1/2"
• Weight: 19.5 grams
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.0 carat

An outstanding Victorian 18K yellow gold oval slide locket, the cover with set with an amazing sardonyx cameo depicting an early steamship also rigged with sails. The single smoke funnel, the sails’ rigging and the absence of a sidewheel suggest the locket dates to the mid-19th century. The carving is expertly worked using the alternating cream and rust colors of the sardonyx to represent every small detail. The marshy foreground is littered with barrels, crates and a large anchor. The hardstone is surrounded by a Greek key pattern carved into the gold. This pattern is repeated on the back cover surrounding an oval or engine-turned engraving. The locket opens by sliding sideways from a pivot at the top. Lockets were used, of course, to hold pictures, locks of hair or other sentimental remembrances. Most likely, a locket with this kind of decoration would have been worn by a ship captain’s wife (the only sailor’s wife likely to have enough money to purchase an expensive locket of this size and quality).

Ca. 1845. Condition: excellent, no damage to carving, 2 pinpoint dings on the back cover, original frames remaining in interior, no monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Size: 1-3/16” x 1-11/16” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 15.9 grams.

A stunning Art Deco gentleman’s dress set comprising a pair of double-faced platinum cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round platinum faces are enhanced with ridged decoration and feature round old European-cut diamonds. The faces are attached with removable connectors for ease in putting them through cuff holes. The backs are marked with Swiss platinum hallmarks and Imperial Austrian import marks. Both marks are no longer in use, and by cross-referencing the marks, we can determine that the cufflinks date to 1914-21.

The set is completed with a vintage set of matching shirt studs commissioned from Gübelin, one of the world’s most exclusive jewelers, in the 1950s. Working only in Switzerland, Gübelin is known especially for its peerless selection of gemstones and for the workmanship of its Swiss master jewelers. The studs match the cufflinks perfectly, and each is stamped with Gübelin’s hallmark and the custom order number. The toggle backs are 18K white gold, and the faces are hallmarked for platinum. The studs are presented in their original fitted suede-covered Gübelin case, which also has enough room for the cufflinks.

Gübelin did not have its own jewelry manufacturing facilities until the late 1920s, and given the perfect match between the cufflinks and the studs, it seems likely that the cufflinks, themselves, were probably originally retailed by Gübelin.

Origin: Switzerland. Size: cufflinks, 1/2" diameter; studs, 13/32” diameter. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .95 carat.

An extraordinary pair of Art Deco earrings featuring faceted onyx rings suspended from platinum and yellow gold surmounts set with rose cut diamonds. Each onyx ring encloses a platinum element with rose-cut diamonds set in a foliate pattern and further suspending a prong-set old European cut diamond. All the parts are fully articulated, so the earrings have a lot of movement. The platinum is finely millegrained. The center diamonds are I color, SI2 clarity. The earrings retain their original level backs. The earrings are stamped with French gold and platinum marks that were used for goods imported from the U.S.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long; 1” wide. Weight: 8.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 ct.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Kieselstein-Cord to represent ancient Greek coins. The faces are decorated with images of horses, the animal sacred to the goddess Pallas Athena, and images similar to this often appear on the obverse of ancient coins minted in Athens. The surfaces and edges of the face a distressed and patinated to resemble truly ancient coins. Even the closing mechanism is designed in a way to suggest great age. Kiselstein-Cord made a small line of jewelry inspired by ancient Greek coins in the late 1980s, but the designs are very difficult to find now. Each cufflink is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Origin: Germany, 1988. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 25/32" x 21/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau Krementz 14K yellow gold festoon necklace featuring pear-shaped amethyst drops and small natural pearls enhanced with swags of gold links. Each of the amethysts hangs from a gold trumpet flower mounting that echos the central gold plaque. The gold surfaces are worked in the slightly matte Russian finish popular in high quality Art Nouveau jewels. The clasp and the back of the central plaque are marked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; the chain has been lengthened from the original 14" to its current 16.5"; the extension is made so the necklace can also be worn at a 15.25" length. Dimensions: length of central drop from the plaque, 1-1/4". Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 10.51 carats.

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old European cut diamond set in a milgrain platinum collet. The diamond is graded as I color, VS2 clarity. The griffin is surrounded by a circle of woody foliage. The back is engraved to match the texture of the front. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The bottom has an additional loop that could be used to suspend an optional gemstone or pearl drop. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and a partial goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detai
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 12.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A very good Georgian watch fob seal worked in 15K yellow gold with ornate floral repousse floral decoration. The section connecting the fob frame to the bail is chased in a foliate pattern that matches the floral theme. One side of the flip part is set with a banded agate while the other side features an exquisitely chased and engraved gold plaque depicting a flower basket beneath a clear rock crystal cover. The gold plaque is likely very close to pure gold which would have made it easier to work and accounts for its intense golden yellow color. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1800

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 2-1/8”

Weight: 38.1 grams

A gorgeous 18K yellow gold circle brooch surrounding a spray of diamond flowers tied with a golden ribbon. The brooch dates to the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. One flower is centered with a .39-carat rose cut diamond and the other two are set with .17-carat old mine-cut diamonds. The remaining 31 diamonds in the brooch are a mix of rose-cuts, old mine-cuts and single-cuts. The stones are of particularly good quality for the period, with bright color and excellent clarity. The piece has considerably more sparkle than most French pieces of the era. The ribbon at the base is realistically engraved. The sides of the brooch have a very nicely-worked saw-pierced gallery. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp, stamped with the "tete d'aigle" mark for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.97 carats.

A very rare Art Nouveau Mardi Gras ball favor jewel in 14K gold depicting Greek goddess. The exposed areas of gold have a soft "bloomed" finish typical of higher quality Art Nouveau jewels that constrasts beautifully with the translucent enamels. The back is stamped "14K" and is engraved "COMUS 1908."

The Mystick Crewe of Comus is the oldest and most exclusive of New Orleans' Mardi Gras organizations. The theme selected for the 1908 event was "Gods & Goddesses." Favors were bestowed on the ladies in attendance. Usually, these were inexpensive items, but in 1908, the "trinket" were these lovely gold pins.

• Origin: America, 1908
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1" x 7/8"
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

A sophisticated 18K gold necklace, the baton links enhanced with black and white en plein enamel. The batons are separated by seed pearls that reappear as a band across the middle of the teardrop-shaped onyx pendant. The pendant hangs from the clasp, so the necklace can be worn alone or with the pendant. Both the clasp and the mounting of the pendant are stamped with French 18K hallmarks and an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: very good, some enamel nicks on the baton links visible with a loupe, but none show the underlying gold
• Dimensions: chain length, 20”; pendant length, 1-1/16”
• Weight: 14.9 grams

A classic 1960's Tiffany & Co. stylized floral brooch in 18K yellow gold set with sapphires and diamonds. The cluster of four blossoms are heavily decorated with hammered and carved details accented with clusters of round brilliant cut diamonds and blue sapphires. Though the brooch is bold, the spikiness of the design keeps the overall design from feeling too massive. The diamonds are I color, SI1 clarity and the sapphires are medium, vivid blue color. The back is marked "18K Tiffany & Co."

• Origin: America, ca 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1- 3/4"
• Weight 21.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .59 carat; diamond, .12 carat.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted and ropetwist links in 14K gold. The fluted links enhances the reflections in the gold, so they offer a more reflective quality that contrasts nicely with the ropetwist links. The chain is substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a quite large pendant or locket, and the links are open enough that they can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 21” long.
• Weight: 29.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A lovely older Cartier 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .347-carat round brilliant diamond. The design, a wide tapered band, combines the two colors of gold in a very nice geometric design that perfectly complements the single diamond collet-set in the middle. The diamond is of fine quality, estimated at G color, VS clarity. The ring has a substantial appearance and could be worn by either a woman or man (though the size is a bit on the small side). The interior of the shank is signed “Cartier”, is dated “1989” and has a serial number.

Weight: 11.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .347 carat. Finger Size: 5-1/4. Size: 9/16” wide, tapering to 7/32”.

A striking pair of 18K yellow gold mid-century earrings fashioned as knots of rope-motif gold. Each earring is finished at the top with three round brilliant diamonds and at the bottom with free-hanging tassels ending in round brilliant blue sapphires. The knot design has a very sculptural quality, typical of French jewelry from the early 1950s, while the tassels provide a sense of movement. The diamonds are graded as I/J, SI1 and the sapphires are a nice medium violetish-blue. The omega backs are stamped with French 18K marks.

Ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2-3/16” x 7/8”. Weight: 28.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.44 cts.; diamond, .30 ct.

A curving band of old European, transitional and single-cut diamonds sparkle in the yellow gold ribbon top of this Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet. The larger diamonds are clasped in buttercup settings, while the smaller ones are bead-set with milgrain accents. The diamonds are good quality, averaging J color and SI1 clarity. The back of the bracelet has a caged structure that mimics the openness of the front. The clasp is stamped 14K.

America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at top tapering to 1/4" at back; fits a 6-5/8" wrist.
• Weight: 26.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.47 carats.

A beautiful French silver-topped 18K yellow gold floral pin from the era of Emperor Napoleon III. The pin is designed as a spray of three flower buds, each just about to open into a different color. The flowers are bead-set with rose cut diamonds, and the colors are represented by rows of cushion and round cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Each bud is centered by a larger rectangular cushion cut diamond set in prongs. A pair of diamond-set leaves and a small diamond-set bud appear below. The bottom of the sprig is also bead-set with diamonds. The top surfaces of the gold are covered in silver to heighten the appeal of the diamonds, in keeping with the mid-19th century practice. Realistic floral spray jewelry became very popular because of the extraordinary pieces commissioned by the Empress Eugenie from Bapst. The back retains the original c-clasp and extended pinstem (stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold).

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/4” x 1-3/16”. Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .981 carat; sapphire, .126 carat; ruby, .147 carat; emerald, .085 carat.

An elegant Edwardian bracelet comprising rectangular filigree plaques of 14K gold centering collet-set oval amethysts. The filigree is amazingly detailed. The amethysts have rich, saturated color and no zoning. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-5/16” long, 1/2" wide
• Weight: 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 16.02 carats

A finely crafted late Art Nouveau 18K gold ring in the form of a lion’s head clasping an old European cut diamond in its jaws. The engraving is very well done and displays great detail that extends halfway around the shank. The diamond is graded as H/VS1. The interior of the shank is engraved “P.R. 10 Avril 1924.” The ring is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• France, 1924
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” wide at front, tapering to 3/16” at back
• Finger Size: 10-12
• Weight: 13.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .10 carat

A very fine and rare Georgian locket in the “giardinetti” style featuring an oval rock crystal compartment bordered in gold completely surrounded by silver leaves and flowers set with 117 rose cut diamonds in closed-back settings typical of the period. The matching bail is in the form of a countess’ coronet. This piece is a very rare survival from the Georgian period. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K. The bail is stamped with illegible hallmarks.

• Origin: probably France, ca 1780
• Condition: excellent, a few minor scratches on the back crystal and a small nick to an interior edge of the front crystal
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 2-7/16” (including bail)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .59 carat
• Weight: 14.2 grams

Outstanding pair of early Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings set with aquamarines. The surmounts, each set with three aquamarine beads, support double chains suspending shields set with oval aquamarines, in turn fringed with chain drops terminating in balls. The shields have foliate decoration that just begin to show the Art Nouveau sensibility. The chain elements are textured in the style more often associated with Etruscan Revival pieces. The aquamarines are of very fine quality with superb color and clarity. The earrings have lots of movement. They are long, yet are light enough to be worn comfortably. The earrings have been converted to screwbacks, but could easily revert to wires or even posts. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-7/16” long. Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 12.35 carats.

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond has bright (G-ish) color and is VVS2 clarity. The griffin is depicted against a background of swirling foliage. The back is engraved to match the texture of the front. The griffin has two loops on the backs of the wingtips so it can be worn as a pendant. It originally also had a removable pin stem which is no longer present. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and a partial goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, removable brooch mechanism absent
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A very nice and heavy vintage Italian crown-shaped charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and set with citrines and pearls. The gold surfaces are enhanced with rope twist and beaded appliques and wire brushing. The citrines have particularly rich color trending away from yellow and more toward the deep amber shade of cognac. The pearls have nice luster. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks and French 18K gold import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1” x 1-1/4” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 30.4 carats
• Weight: 24.0 grams

A pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in Barry Kieselstein-Cord’s classic “Caviar” pattern. Introduced in the early 1980’s, this design takes its name from the row of gold spheres the run through the center of the scroll. The design was used for a several styles of earrings, as well as bracelets and other jewels. These earrings are a smaller style and are more comfortable to wear than many of the other pieces. The omega clips are original, but posts could be added easily. Each earring is signed and dated 1981.

Origin: America, 1981. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 13/16” x 13/16”. Weight: 19.5 grams.

A large Etruscan style 18K gold fob/charm/pendant set with large dark blue topaz. We’ve never seen one of these charms set with deep blue gemstones before. The gold surfaces are covered in ornate bead and twisted wire decoration. The pendant opens in the middle to reveal a secret compartment. The bail is stamped for 18K gold and also has French import marks.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter, 1-1/2” height (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Topaz Weight: 32.8 carats
• Weight: 24.3 grams

A handsome pair of cufflinks and three matching shirt studs in 18K yellow gold set with blue sapphires. The faces are fashioned as knots, the individual gold “threads” textured in a rope-twist motif for added interest. Each knot is centered with a brilliant round-cut blue sapphire. The sapphires have nice color saturation, and the gold is quite heavy. Each cufflink is marked “18K”. The faces of the shirt studs are also 18K, but the spring mechanism on the back is 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink large faces, 5/8” diameter; 7/16” diameter. Weight: 27.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .82 carat.

Very fine pair of late Art Noveau 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The faces show a beautifully designed young woman's face stylized wisps of hair cascading around a porthole-like frame. The design is really superb. The connectors open so the cufflinks are easy to put on. The backs are marked with French 18K import marks. The rather severely stylized design suggests that they are of Belgian or German (possibly Austrian) origin.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.