Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A very nice extended set of cufflinks and shirt studs, worked in 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl by Larter. The double-sided cufflinks have concave oval mother of pearl faces centered by a simple gold disc. Both the large and small studs are made in the same manner, but are in the traditional round shape. Originally, the larger studs would have been used for the waistcoat and the smaller studs for the shirt. When wearing true “white tie”, the set can be used exactly in this way, but for use with a tuxedo, the owner can choose to wear either the large or small set in the shirt’s buttonholes. The mother of pearl has very nice iridescence and a glossy surface. Each piece is marked “14K” and with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink faces, 11/16” x 7/16”; large studs, 17/32” diameter; small studs, 5/16” diameter.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with round brilliant cut amethysts. The stones have a beautiful, rich color with nice brilliancy. Amethysts used in cufflinks of the period were more frequently cut en cabochon rather than fully faceted as are these. The gold surfaces have a the soft matte “bloomed” or “Russian” finish sometimes seen on jewels from the Art Nouveau period. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.58 carats.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold, amethyst and pearl ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The crown is fashioned as a cluster of oak leaves and acorns surrounding two round amethysts and two half-pearls in collet settings. The amethysts are graded as medium-dark strong purple (P 6/6); with excellent cut and Type I eye-clean clarity. The pearls have nice luster and creamy body color.

Edward Everette Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw before opening is own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but his mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stasys at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 7. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.88 cts.

An elegant pair of Retro 14K yellow gold earclips by Tiffany & Co. The earrings are fashioned as a fold of pleated gold, each with a single 5-mm cultured pearl in the center. The pearls are of fine quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtone. The original clips are the patented adjustable style often seen on Tiffany earrings from the 1940s and 50s. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co.” and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1945. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 11/16”. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces collet-set with jasper chalcedony cabochons. The stones display a nice variety of swirling colors in hues of rust, grayish-green and cream. The figure-eight connectors are marked “14K” and have Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

An exquisite pair of Art Deco heavy 18K yellow gold snap cufflinks. Each round face is designed as a lion’s head superimposed over the classic French sunburst motif that made a reappearance in the decorative arts during the Art Deco period. The quality of workmanship is superb, with outstanding detailing in the design. Gold snap cufflinks are quite uncommon. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K “tete d’aigle” gold hallmarks and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 17.0 grams.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold dome earrings studded with bezel-set tourmaline, topaz, garnet, citrine and aquamarine. This style was popularized by H Stern in the 1950’s and was used to show off the variety of gemstones available from the company’s native Brazil. Due to its spiky appearance, the design was eventually called “Sputnik”. The style was mostly used for rings, but also for pendants, charms and earrings. Earrings are quite uncommon. The earrings retain the original post-and-clip backs, but the posts could be removed if desired. The clips are marked “MN 750”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.36 cts.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

A wonderfully witty 14K gold tie bar in the form of a snow ski by Tiffany & Co. As expected of a mid-century Tiffany design, the workmanship is very finely detailed and executed right down to the details of the bindings. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram “WLT” and is also marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 2-11/16” x 5/16” (front width). Weight: 6.2 grams.

A classic pair of "leopard spot" earrings in 18K yellow gold and mother-of-pearl by Angela Cummings. The earrings are signed on the reverse "Angela Cummings/750". Cummings pioneered the art of hardstone inlay as a designer for Tiffany & Co. After leaving Tiffany, she opened a luxury boutique in her own name.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 3/4 x 9/16". Weight: 10.8 gr.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks by Gaetan de Percin, the jeweler responsible for most of the Hermes jewelry designs in the 1930s and 40s. This style, in the form of equestrian stirrups or "etrier" is a classic design created around 1940. Aside from Hermes, De Percin made variations of this design for prestigious houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Chanel, Dior and Boucheron. The cufflinks are marked with French silver hallmarks and with the master's mark of De Percin.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 11/16" x 5/8". Weight: 15.7 grams.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces facet engraved in a diamond pattern. The intersections of the engraved lines are set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires have medium-light violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 15x19mm. Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A heavy and attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks in the flip-up style. The round faces are decorated with engraved lines in a herringbone pattern. After being inserted in the button hole, the ends are flipped up to secure the cuff. This style is rather uncommon in cufflinks from North America, being much more prevalent in French cufflinks from the period. The connectors are signed by Birks and are marked “14Kt”.

Origin: Canada, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

A nice pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with faceted disks of bloodstone. The bloodstone has nicely mottled red and blackish-green coloring attractively accented with a gold bars in the center of each face. The connectors are marked for 14K gold and bear the hallmark of Enos Richardson & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 15/32" diameter. Weight: 6.8 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring an ornate pattern of woven gold “threads”. The faces are joined by chains. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French 18K gold marks and with an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32” diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A fine 18K yellow gold Victorian bracelet in the Etruscan Revival taste. The bracelet comprises ten 7-mm gold beads ornately decorated in twisted wire- and bead-work. Two 8.5-mm beads flank the clasp. The beads are joined by trace link chains, the larger beads being separated at a greater distance from the others. The placement of the hallmarks on the chain segments indicates this is the original design of the bracelet and that it has not been altered. French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/2". Weight: 6.5 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with mother-of-pearl inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was still lead designer at Tiffany & Co. After establishing her own luxury boutique, she continued to make similar designs under her own name. The earrings are marked “Cummings 18K”.

Origin: America, 1984-2003. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 15.7 grams.

A handsome and unusual pair of Art Deco silver cufflinks, the round faces decorated with mother-of-pearl disc centered with carnelian cabochons. The discs are engraved with concentric rings. The mother-of-pearl is a very nice contrast to the luminous orange-reddish carnelian. The backs of the faces are marked "830" for the silver content and the removable connectors are marked "Germany".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 10.0 cts.

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A rare World War II era 14K yellow gold tie bar in the form of an airplane propeller. This motif would have been considered a patriotic statement in gentleman’s jewelry at the time. The back is marked “14K” and has the hallmark for Richardson Manufacturing Company, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.4 grams.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of cufflinks.

A very good pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each face in the form of an owl's head complete with bright ruby eyes. The gold is finely detailed and the rubies are natural and of high quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 6.7 grams.

A fine pair of vintage 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each of the faces is designed as seed cluster similar to a thistle or the middle of a black-eyed Susan. During the 1960s, VCA excelled in naturalistic motifs interpreted in finely worked gold. These were a reaction to the glamorous diamond and gemstone-encrusted creations of the 1950s. Understated designs worked in yellow gold, which had not been widely used since the 1940s, were embraced by the leading French joailliers and were considered the height of fashion. The craftsmanship and overall design of these cufflinks is understated, but quite elegant. Even the chain connectors are worked with beveled links instead of the more common and easily-made rounded links. The cufflinks are marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/750/B3231". They also have a copyright mark for 1965 and all the appropriate French hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/16 diameter. Weight: 9.6 grams.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with lapis lazuli and rubies. Each face features a lapis cut to resemble the crown portion of a round brilliant cut diamond with a bezel-set round mixed-cut ruby in the center. The rubies have fine, strongly saturated slightly purplish-red color and medium-dark tone. The lapis is of equally fine quality, with strong color and a nice smattering of glittery pyrite flecks. The heavy settings show very good workmanship. Marked "18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Ruby Weight: 1.05 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of an iris blossom superimposed over a sinous heart-shaped outline by Krementz. The iris is beautifully finished in thick, colorful enamels that have been built up in layers to lend greater three-dimensionality than is usual. The leaves are finished in the translucent enamels more typically seen in Krementz pieces. The center of the blossom features a row of bright, old European cut diamonds. The original clasp is marked “14K”. The pin is unsigned, but is a known Krementz design.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; there is one extremely tiny nick in the lightest shade of enamel on the bottom right petal (visible only with 10x magnification). Dimensions: 31/32” x 1-3/32”. Weight: 5.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A superb pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the octagonal faces worked in platinum over gold. Each face features sugarloaf cabochon sapphire of fine, vividly saturated blue. Each cabochon is flanked by four rectangular sapphires flush-mounted with milgrained borders. The faces are joined with chain connectors. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.99 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.16 cts.