Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is probably the artist’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable pieces. The pin was available in several sizes, this example being the second largest. The “Scribble” line is no longer in production and examples are getting difficult to find. The back is dated 1983, is marked by Tiffany & Co., and is signed Paloma Picasso. The pin is presented with its Tiffany pouch.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 2-5/8”. Weight: 22.5 grams.

A stunning pair of 18K noble gold and natural fancy-colored diamond earrings from the Snowflake collection by H Stern. Each earring is composed of three snowflakes of graduated size, each set with round brilliant natural fancy-colored diamonds in subtle shades ranging from honey to pale golden brown. The diamonds average VS2 clarity. The earrings are made with 18K noble gold, a color somewhere between white gold and yellow gold that Stern created in 2001. Noble gold has the unique ability to shift color, either toward yellow or toward white, depending on what it’s being worn with. It has a warm tone that looks particularly good with the colored diamonds. The back of each earring, as well as the clutches, are marked for 18K gold and are signed by H Stern. The earrings currently retail for $7500 at H Stern.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 2013. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 48 mm (1-7/8 in); largest snowflake diameter, 21 mm (13/16 in). Weight: 13.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.76 ct.

A very fine pair of platinum, diamond and aquamarine earrings in a classic Art Deco style. The brilliant round-cut diamonds graduate from .20 ct at the top to .30 ct at the bottom. The diamonds are finely matched at H color, VS1 to VS2 clarity, with good to very good cut. The brilliant oval-cut aquamarines have fine color color, very good brilliance and SI clarity. The aquamarines are unheated. Each gemstone is set in a fully articulated mounting with a pierced gallery. The earrings have screw posts. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Size: 1-3/4" long. Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.52 carats; aquamarine, 3.52 cts. Weight: 9.0 grams.

An interesting pair of cufflinks carved from pieces of coral and shaped as koi. Each fish has the distinctive ruffled tail fins that are typical of the species. The fronts are joined with silvered chains to the backs which are simple pieces of coral branch. The color is very nice and is completely natural.

Origin: Southeast Asia, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 1/2”.

An extraordinarily fine antique 18K yellow gold ring by Tiffany & Co. set with a mixed cushion cut Burmese blue sapphire surrounded by old mine cut diamonds. All the gems are of the finest quality. The sapphire has been certified by the American Gemological Laboratories (see the following paragraph). The diamonds, ranging in size from approximately .22 carat to .29 carat each, are estimated at G/H color and SI to VVS2 clarity. The sapphire is set in a prong setting, while the diamonds are set in a shared-prong setting that creates a filigree appearance around the back of the crown. The shoulders of the shank are lightly decorated with beaded engraving.

Nearly all sapphires marketed in the last 150 years have been heated to improve the color. This is considered a standard practice. Other treatments, such as filling in fractures, altering the color family, etc., though considered bad practice, are nonetheless quite common. Fine Burmese stones from the Mogok region that have not been treated in any way are exceedingly rare and only show up in upscale jewels from makers such as Tiffany and Cartier. This particular stone, with its bright coloring and beautiful cut, is nothing short of stunning.

The AGL Brief (dated April 2008) indicates that the sapphire is natural; displays specific properties and characteristics associated with stones from Burma; measures 7.39 x 6.69 x 5.82 mm; weighs 2.49 carats; is cut in mixed cushion, has blue color, and shows no heat or additional treatments. The brief further indicates that unheated sapphires are scarce. The original brief will accompany the ring.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, interior of shank has a period monogram. Finger Size: 4-1/4 (The ring can be sized up and we would recommend that the work be performed by Tiffany). Weight: 6.0 grams. Gemstone Weight: diamond (estimated by measurement), 2.25 carats; sapphire (by actual weight), 2.49 carats.

A delightful Victorian 14K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a smoking monkey. The face is beautifully detailed and he grasps a small pearl at the edge of his mouth to represent a cigarette. The surface is highlighted with a slightly rust-colored bloomed finish. The back is stamped with the mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: head, 1/2" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2". Weight: 1.9 gr.

A handsome pair of Arts and Crafts (Aesthetic) period cufflinks in 14K yellow gold. The oval faces have irregularly pierced faces set with buff-cut amethysts. The amethysts have nice medium coloring. Their smooth upper surfaces match the simple overall style, while the faceted pavilions provide a little shimmer. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16 x 13/16 inches. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 11.68 carats.

A superb pair of mid-19th century 18K yellow gold, silver and platinum cufflinks set with diamonds and sapphires. The square faces feature collet-set old mine cut diamonds centering intricately pierced quatrefoil motifs bead-set with rose cut diamonds in silver. Rows of channel-set square sapphires radiate outward from the center diamonds toward the rounded corners of the faces. The center diamonds are approximately .2 carats each, are estimated at H/I color and SI2 clarity, and are set in silver as was the custom in jewelry of the era. The natural sapphires have vivid slightly greenish-blue to violet-blue color, and show no signs of treatment. The workmanship of the faces is very fine, with high quality beading, hand-sawn piercing and double-gallery construction. The faces are attached by gold chains to gold and platinum torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold, silver and platinum.

Ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .96 carat; sapphire, .34 carat.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold “Sputnik” earrings by H. Stern. This classic design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, pink tourmaline, aquamarine, amethyst, citrine and garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination of gemstones used and how they are arranged relative to one another. This pair of earrings has brightly-colored stones in a very pleasing arrangement. Sputnik jewelry was created by H. Stern, Brazil’s largest dealer in colored gemstones, and was quite popular in the early years of the space race because of its perceived resemblance to the famed Russian satellite. The earrings have omega clips without posts (posts could easily be added). The earrings were purchased in 1996 at the H. Stern boutique on Fifth Avenue, New York. They retain their original presentation and gift boxes. The earrings are tested and guaranteed 18K gold; the findings are 14K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1996. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.34 cts.

A very attractive pair of vintage 18K yellow gold star earrings by Tiffany & Co. The stars are slightly pulled out of shape, so the design has a sense of movement, and the legs are slightly faceted for a little extra shine. The earrings have Omega backs and the original posts, which could be removed for wear as clips. Each earring is signed "Tiffany & Co.", is marked "750" for 18K gold, and is dated 1983.

Origin: America, 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 13/16" x 7/8". Weight: 11.3 gr.

A very fine and heavy Venetian Etruscan 18K yellow gold fob charm in a modified teardrop form. The bottom of the charm is set with a large turquoise oval cabochon (12x9.5mm) surmounted by rows of square aquamarines, smaller turquoise round cabochons and round brilliant cut garnets. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with ornate wirework. This is one of the highest-quality Venetian Etruscan charms we've seen. The jump ring is marked for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/8" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 17.1 grams.

A superb pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face set with a carnelian cabochon. The settings are in a style combining both Aesthetic and Architectural Revival elements. The gold surfaces, worked in the matte Russian finish often seen in Art Nouveau jewels, contrasts beautifully with the rich rust colors of the carnelians. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 9.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.0 carats.

A stunning Retro 18K yellow gold strap bracelet of flat hexagonal links in the Van Cleef & Arpels style. The bracelet is engraved at regular intervals with highly-detailed honeybees, their bodies represented by elongated cabochons of hessonite garnet. The use of hessonite garnet instead of the more common similarly-colored gemstones such as citrine is an inspired choice. The interior of hessonite has a wavy, “heatwave” appearance that gives the stone visible texture. It is this texture that so successfully mimics the striations on the body of a honeyee. The engraved legs and wings are beautifully executed. Van Cleef & Arpels created the strap bracelet of interlocking hexagonal plates (the “Ludo Hexagone”) in 1935 and it quickly became a favorite motif of luxury jewelers worldwide. They are occasionally set with gemstones, but this exampled with engraved bees is a first! The clasp is marked with illegible hallmarks. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 23/32 in. wide; 7-1/2 in. length. Weight: 61.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.3 cts.

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style. The sphere is collet-set with round amethysts, citrines, pink and green tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines around a central aquamarine set at the top of the dome. This design was originally created by H. Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has particularly nice warm tones—reds, pinks and dark oranges. The ring is unsigned, but is most likely by Stern. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; one garnet toward the edge has a small flake visible with 10x magnification. Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.64 carats.

A nice pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each in the form of a large and a small button, complete with raised gold beads to suggest the stitches. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4” & 9/16” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A wonderful pair of Victorian cufflinks, the faces fashioned as bloodstone (heliotrope) spheres encircled by gold snakes. The stones are nicely mottled with red and green colors and spin freely on their axes. The snakes circle around the bloodstones at the equator and their heads rise up over the top. The gold is finished in the slightly matte “Russian finish” often used in Art Nouveau jewelry and the snakes are lightly engraved with scaly details. The faces are attached by arched connectors to bean backs. In Victorian symbology, snakes represented eternal love. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, .5 x .5 inches. Weight: 7.3 grams.

A marvelous Georgian cross pendant worked entirely in seed pearls and centering an oval cut citrine in a 9K gold push-up setting. Seed pearl jewelry became popular during the last quarter of the 18th century and remained in fashion for about fifty years. The forms were cut from pieces of mother-of-pearl then drilled with tiny holes. Strands of horsehair, bleached to become white and translucent, were used to sew hundreds of tiny natural seed pearls to the form. The center citrine adds a bit a sparkle to what would otherwise be a very chaste piece. Some of the pearls in this piece are quite large for seed pearl jewelry. Although pearls are associated with purity, crosses are difficult to find in seed pearl jewelry. The 14K gold bale is recent.

Origin: England, ca. 1775. Condition: excellent, some glue reinforcement of the horsehair in places on the back. Size: 2” x 1-3/8”.

A stunning Tiffany & Co. ring by Jean Schlumberger, one of the great jewelry designers of the 20th century. He was Tiffany’s lead designer in the 1960s and was charged with creating nearly all of the company’s most exclusive pieces. His designs typically relied on naturalistic motifs. Here, two leaves are worked in platinum and studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stems of the leaves are worked in 18K yellow gold and meld into the double shank that continues the organic motif. The diamonds are of very fine quality, VS clarity, G color. Schlumberger created several pieces using this motif, including the “Three Leaves Earrings” (currently available from Tiffany at $13,500), the “Five Leaves Brooch” ($16,500), the “Three Leaves Sapphire Earclips” ($62,000). The “Two Leaves Ring” currently retails for $4,400.

Origin: America. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Size: 5/8” wide. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .51 carat.

A classic pair of Hermes 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "Etrier" design. Each hinged end is in the form of a stirrup. The connectors are signed "Hermes", have serial numbers and are fully marked with appropriate French 18K gold marks. Etrier cufflinks in gold are no longer available at Hermes. The same design in sterling silver currently retails for $970. A similar design in gold, but with no moveable parts currently retails for $4750.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 15.8 grams.

A very fine, heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet in the “Signature” or “Signature X” pattern by Tiffany & Co. This is a classic design that hasn’t been in production for quite some time. Each link is fully articulated so the bracelet lies nicely on the wrist. The clasp is marked “T & Co. 750”. Comparable bracelets at Tiffany currently retail in the $8,000 range.

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7-1/8” long; 5/16” wide. Weight: 29.1 grams.

A set of three 14K white gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl shirt studs by Larter. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl discs, each centering a round diamond and surrounded by an ornate beaded border with additional diamonds. The backs are hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9 mm (11/32 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 ct. Weight: 4.1 gr.

NOTE: We also have a pair of cufflinks by Carrington (Item #1233390) that, although not a perfect match to these studs, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set. See the last photo for more information.

A handsome pair of double-sided button-style cufflinks, the round faces formed from discs of mother-of-pearl surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel. Each face is centered with yellow gold “stitches”. The mother-of-pearl has nice iridescence. The faces are joined by removable connectors. Marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A very attractive and early pair of Art Deco silver cufflink from Taxco, Mexico. The square faces are decorated with an applied and incised design faintly suggestive of a stylized butterfly. The faces are connected with simple oval connectors. Each face is marked with pre-World War II marks “Taxco Silver”. Earlier Mexican silver cufflinks with pre-war marks are becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp details, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 15.1 grams.

A very fine 14K yellow gold mesh watch fob suspending a nicely detailed 14K Egyptian Revival Sphinx seal. Mesh fobs are most frequently gold-filled, but this example is solid 14K. The fittings at either end are beautifully engraved in a foliate pattern. The Sphinx seal depicts the regal creature in its traditional pose with wings swept back against the leonine flanks. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no engraving on seal. Dimesions: overall length, 6-1/8"; seal, 1 x 3/4". Weight: 30.0 grams.

A pair of vintage sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. The double baton faces are engraved in a tree bark motif and are connected by chains. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes†and bears appropriate French silver marks. They are also stamped with the silversmith’s hallmark. This is an early design that hasn't been in production in 80 years or more.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: cufflinks, excellent; box, excellent. Dimensions: faces, 13/16†long. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A fine 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover chased with an ornate scrolling pattern centering a large fleur-de-lis, itself set with an old European diamond. The diamond is well-cut and is graded as J color, SI1 clarity. The back cover has a period monogram "F to J". The interior retains both of the original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7/8" diameter. Weight: 5.1 grams. Approximate Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings designed by Frank Gehry for Tiffany & Co. These “Hoop” earrings are from the “Equus” line, one of the six original lines Gehry created in 2006. There were two different earring designs in the Equus line, this style being the more uncommon. The earrings are bead-set with round brilliant cut diamonds one side. They can be worn with the diamonds showing outward, or reversed to show the plain gold side. The diamonds are estimated at G/VVS quality, and are 2.5 points each. The “Equus” line is no longer available from Tiffany. Each earring is marked “T & Co./Gehry/750”.

In 2006, Gehry became the first designer allowed to sign his own works for Tiffany since Paloma Picasso in 1980. Gehry’s designs draw on his expertise as one of the 20th Century’s greatest architects. The “Equus” line is based on the abstract, undulating “horse head” motif that appears in some of his buildings, most notably the auditorium inside the DG Bank headquarters in Berlin.

Origin: America, ca. 2006. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/8” long. Weight: 12.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .4 carat.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring in the Retro Moderne style set with an emerald cut synthetic pink sapphire enclosed at either end with a pair of square cut synthetic rubies and a natural round brilliant cut diamond. The stones are set in an ornate scrolling mount. The colorful design, with its strong contrasts, makes for a very attractive, fun ring. Synthetic rubies and sapphires were frequently used during the Retro period, even by the most exclusive jewelers, because many stones were unavailable to World War II. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent; the ring has been sized up. Dimensions: crown, 20mm x 10mm; back of shank, 5mm. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Weight: 9.2 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .10 ct; synthetic ruby, .66 ct; synthetic pink sapphire, 6.18 cts.

A very rare pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with boulder opal cabochons. The opals have much finer play of color than is typical of boulder opal, with a preponderance of blue and green that almost seems to glow from within. The contrast with the matte brown of the host matrix is very attractive. The opals are set collet-set in simple frames finished with ropetwist borders. The outer dimensions of the faces vary in size by 1/32", suggesting that the mountings were custom-made for stones already in the original owner's collection. One opal is a little narrower and higher, while the other is broader and flatter. When being worn, of course, the size difference is unnoticeable. The quality of the opals suggests Lightning Ridge, Australia as the most likely source.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" and 16/32". Weight: 6.4 gr.

An attractive pair of Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces decorated with a repousse design featuring a lion’s head. The great cat’s mouth is open in mid-roar and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with sinuous grasses that mimic the lion’s flowing mane. The backs are marked “10K H.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1/2" x 3/4". Weight: 4.1 grams.

A handsome pair f 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces enhanced with an engraved waffle pattern and featuring a line of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The sapphires have strong blue coloring and eye-clean clarity. The faces are connected to hinged backs decorated in a matching waffle pattern. The bridges are fully stamped with French master goldsmith’s marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: front faces, 12 x 20 mm (1/2 x 13/16 in). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 12.9 gr.

A beautiful Georgian mourning pin worked in 15K yellow gold with black enamel accents. The domed crystal cover encloses a watercolor on ivory memorial scene highlighted with snippets of hair. The scene depicts a rifle and hunting bag, a dog and a willow tree. The rifle indicates that the brooch was intended to memorialize a gentleman and the willow tree was a symbol of sorrow. The dog waits patiently at attention by his master’s belongings, symbolizing loyalty. The concept of loyalty was an important symbol in Georgian jewelry, but the dog motif is not often encountered. The leaves of the willow tree and the grass on the ground are made from very fine snippets of hair. The design is completed with the monogram “L St.” The brooch retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: England, ca. 1790. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/32” x 25/32”.

A very pretty 14K yellow gold ring bezel-set with an oval gold quartz stone flanked by shoulders set with fused natural 24K gold nuggets. The quartz has good color and is generously streaked with gold in well-balanced pattern. Gold quartz jewelry originally became fashionable during the California gold rush and then again when gold was discovered in Alaska just before the turn of the 20th century. The shank is marked “14K” and has an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 1/2” x 3/8”. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A nice pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings, open circles enclosing ball drops star-set with emerald-cut tourmalines. The circles are finished with a pierced and beaded border along the inside edges and a delicate ropetwist motif along the outside. One tourmaline is pale green and the other is bi-colored—mostly green but with some pinkish-red areas. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1870. Condition: very good, minor dings consistent with age (mostly on reverse side). Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-5/16” long (to top of wires). Weight: 4.4 grams.

An extremely rare and very important 18K yellow gold ring set with a white pearl and a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design features a squared shank with a flat open gallery enclosing the two 7.0mm pearls. The pearls are drilled and rotate freely on their axes. The pearls are of very nice quality with superb luster and natural color. The back of the shank is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and the interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the most avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. This design, created in late 1965 or early 1966, was Dinh Van's first independent commission and represented a major milestone in modern French jewelry. The simplicity and squared-off outline that eventually became his signature are already in clear evidence.

An example of the ring is included in France's permanent national jewelry collection housed at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. It is also illustrated in "La Collection de Bijoux du Musee des Arts Decoratifs a Paris", "Jewelry & Metalwork in the Arts & Crafts Tradition", "European Designer Jewelry" and "Dictionnaire International Bijou".

Origin: France, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" thick; 3/4" wide. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A beautiful pair of matte-finished 18K yellow gold earrings from Judith Ripka’s high-end collection. Each oval cushion-shaped earring is highlighted with a pair of pave-set diamond hearts flanked by rows of beading and rope motifs. The diamonds are G/H color and VS1 clarity. The backs of the earrings have hooks so that gemstone pendants can be added—perhaps pearl drops or even larger diamond or colored stone solitaires. The backs retain the original posts and omega clips. Each earring is marked “Judith Ripka 18K”. This design is no longer being made, but similar earrings in the 2010 collection retail at approximately $2000.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks and three shirt studs fashioned as buttons. The buttons are nicely detailed, complete with gold “stitches.” The cufflinks are signed “Tiffany & Co.”, the studs are signed “T & Co.”, and each piece has Larter’s 14K manufacturer’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

An extraordinarily fine Renaissance Revival 14K gold ball fob, suspended from its original chain. The orb is beautifully decorated with foliate engraving in the English style crisscrossed with bands of small natural pearls. The upper half of the orb is set with three blue sapphires in pinched floret mountings. The chain, fashioned as a series of florets, is alternately set with antique cushion cut sapphires and rubies flanked at compass points by natural seed pearls. The chain terminates with its original swivel hook. The rubies and sapphires have good color and show no evidence of heat treatment. The pearls have very luster. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: sphere, 15mm diameter; chain & fob overall length, 117mm. Weight: 11.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .10 ct; sapphire, .18 ct.

A fine pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold tassel earrings. The foxtail chains are suspended from bell-shaped surmounts with bands of engraved decoration and applied flowers worked in rose and green gold. Each foxtail chain ends in a small gold sphere. The earrings have an elegant look, without being too heavy for comfortable wear. The surmounts are marked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, wires are replacements. Size: 1-3/8” long. Weight: 5.5 grams.

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A very rare 18K yellow gold ring set with a black pearl designed by Jean Dinh Van for Pierre Cardin. The design has an overall trapezoidal shape. The shank is doubled at the back and then comes together into a single head at the front, where it grasps a single black pearl. The 6mm pearl has nice lustre and even, natural coloring. The back of the shank is fully stamped with the French goldsmith's mark and "18K". The interior is signed "Pierre Cardin".

Jean Dinh Van is one of the most important modernist French jewelers. He apprenticed at Cartier before starting his own studio in 1965. Dinh Van collaborated with most of the avant-garde fashion designers of the era, including Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne. The squared-off outline and simple placement of a single pearl is very typical of Dinh Van's work for Cardin, yet this is the first example we've seen of this design. One of his designs for Cardin is included in the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and is published in numerous books.

Origin: France, ca. 1966. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Dimensions: shank, 1/8" wide at front, 1/4" wide at back. Weight: 5.7 grams.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with round brilliant cut amethysts. The stones have a beautiful, rich color with nice brilliancy. Amethysts used in cufflinks of the period were more frequently cut en cabochon rather than fully faceted as are these. The gold surfaces have a the soft matte “bloomed” or “Russian” finish sometimes seen on jewels from the Art Nouveau period. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.58 carats.

A set of three classic 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl shirt studs by Larter. The mother of pearl has particularly nice iridescent coloring. The simple design allows them to be worn with a variety of cufflinks, as well. Each stud is marked 14K and has the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.7 grams.

An extraordinary near-life-size tulip brooch, the blossom and leaves worked in 18K yellow gold and the stem and stamens in white gold. The gold surfaces are extensively and expertly texturally engraved to simulate the semi-matte appearance of a tulip’s petals, and the toughness of its leaves. The entire assembly is completely three-dimensional. A 1/5-carat round brilliant diamond is nestled between the blossom and a leaf, and the interior of the flower conceals white gold stamens topped with smaller round brilliant-cut diamonds. The entire length of the white gold stem is pave-set with single cut diamonds. A bright green oval emerald is tucked into the cut end of the stem. The diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The emerald is graded as medium vivid green (G 5/6) color with only light inclusions. The back of the brooch retains its original double-pin coat or fur clip. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K gold marks and one leaf bears an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 4-1/2 inches long; 1-5/8” inches wide. Weight: 65.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, .31 ct; diamond, 2.5 cts.

An superb 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with an ornate image of a Valkyrie, one of the "Choosers of the Slain" in Norse and Germanic mythology. The image is beautifully detailed with fine facial features, flailing hair and, of course, the winged helmet set with an old European cut diamond for a touch of sparkle. She is depicted in mid-flight with a background of swirling clouds. The interior retains the original frames and covers. The back has a period "CEC" monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Noted for both their beauty and their iron will, the Valkyries were responsible for choosing who would die a hero and who would simply die. Once the heroes were ensconced in the afterlife, the Valkyries provided them with wine, food and various other desirable services for all eternity.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

Very handsome 18K yellow gold and steel cable cufflinks by one of the most important high-end contemporary jewelry designers, Philippe Charriol. Charriol rose to prominence working for Cartier before starting his own boutique in 1983. The “Celtic” line was Charriol’s first design, and the he updates it every few years. These cufflinks are a newer variation of the original “Celtic” design (the front faces of the original design had two steel cables separated by a gold bar, while this pair has one cable flanked on either side by a gold bar). The toggle backs allow the cufflinks to be inserted and worn comfortably. The connectors are stamped with Charriol’s hallmark and are marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Switzerland, ca 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 3/4" x 5/16”. Weight: 10.6 grams.

An uncommon 18K yellow gold charm or pendant in the Sputnik style, bezel-set with round amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, aquamarines, citrines and garnets. The design was created by H Stern in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the company’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each Sputnik piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific combination and placement of the various gemstones. This particular example has strong contrasts between the darkest and lightest stones. The Sputnik design was most commonly used for rings. Pendants and charms, especially large ones that are fully spherical, are difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 6.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.98 ct.

A rare pair of 18K yellow gold earclips in the Sputnik style. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, and green and pink tourmalines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of Stern's native Brazil. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particularly selection and placement of the gemstones for its overall look. This example trends toward mid-tone colors, neither too intense or pastel. The earrings are unmarked, as were many Stern pieces of the period. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones; replaced posts. Dimensions: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 10.3 cts.

A very fine dress set comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and four shirt studs. The faces are worked as star-cut frosted rock crystal discs set in platinum borders with engine-turned engraving and centering French-cut blue sapphires. The connectors and stud findings are in 14K yellow gold. The sapphires have fine, vivid coloring and excellent clarity. The connectors are stamped with Krementz's hallmark and "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: cufflinks, 9/16" diameter; studs, 5/16" diameter. Weight: 13.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .78 carat.

A lovely silver, plique-a-jour enamel, mother-of-pearl, and paste pendant in the German Art Jugendstil or Nouveau taste. The pendant is worked with very attractive enameled cells in shades of teal, cream and rose. German Art Nouveau pieces from the Pforzheim school tend to be more linear and symmetrical than those from France, and this piece is a classic example. The use of a collet-set mother-of-pearl oval is the center position is very typical of the work of Otto Prutscher, the leading German Art Nouveau jewelry designer. The back is marked "Depose 900" and is signed "HS" or "SH".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: appears to be converted from a brooch; no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/8" x 1"; chain 16-1/2" long. Weight: 6.3 gr.

An unusual pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces featuring cabochon cut aventurine glass (goldstone) set in 18K yellow gold bezels. The faces are connected by gold chains to torpedo backs, also worked in aventurine glass. Aventurine glass was invented in Venice in the 1600s, and enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the 1920s. The mountings are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: round faces, 7/16 in. diameter; torpedoes, 7/8 in. long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

A superb pair of Austrian Art Deco cufflinks, worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are centered with moonstone cabochons surrounded by round mixed-cut rubties. The moonstones have fine bluish color and strong adularescence that contrasts beautifully with the richness of the rubies. The rubies are natural and show no signs of heat treatment. The stones are graded as medium-dark, vivid strong purplish red with eye-clean to slightly included clarity. The faces are joined by chains to baton-style backs. The combination of moonstone and ruby was particularly popular during the first quarter of the 20th century, but it's rarely seen with an effect as pleasing as this. Both cufflinks are hallmarked with Austrian hallmarks used in the provinces near Dresden from 1922 until 1925.

Origin: Austria, 1922-25. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 3.4 cts; ruby, 1.43 cts.

A handsome pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Georg Jensen. The rectangular faces are severely designed in the Art Deco style, with only a series of parallel raised bands as decoration. The solid connectors are attached to hinged oval backs. The cufflinks are marked with the pattern number 80 and bear post-1945 Jensen hallmarks.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16" x 3/8". Weight: 15.6 grams.

An unusual and very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet. The front is decorated with cutwork in a wheat pattern enhanced with ropetwist borders in the Etruscan Revival style. The cutwork panel is worked in yellow gold while the bracelet’s outer borders are in a slightly rosier shade. The back panel is plain. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: all ropetwist intact; no damage to front panel; typical small dings on back panel. Dimensions: 7/8” wide; 6-1/4” interior circumference. Weight: 39.8 grams.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. They are usually round or oval; lozenge-shaped examples such as this are uncommon. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age. Size: 1-5/16” x 1-1/2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 6.0 grams.