Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A very attractive pair of double-sided cufflinks fashioned as oval mother-of-pearl discs centered with small seed pearls and enclosed in an opaque white enamel border, all set in yellow gold. White cufflinks such as these would originally have been worn only with white tie, but today they are particularly elegant with shirts in darker colored fabrics. The connectors are marked “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Larter & Sons.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 10.9 grams

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A striking Modernist take on a traditional 18K gold floral brooch. The stark thorn-like arrangement, enhanced with Akoya pearls, has an almost brutalist style. The gold surfaces are stippled to create a matte texture that contrasts with the polished gold of the small ribbon at the base. The pearls are nice quality with ivory body color. The brooch looks equally stylish worn as a pendant. The back is stamped "18K" and has an unidentified maker's mark.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1960
• DIMENSIONS 2 3/16" x 1 1/2"
• WEIGHT 10.2 grams
• CONDITION excellent

An elegant and playful 18K gold “Lentil” pendant studded with an array of colored diamonds—pale blue, green, canary yellow and pink—each in a round brilliant-cut. The gold surface has a matte Russian finish that contrasts beautifully with the sparkle of the diamonds. Perret is one of the most acclaimed jewelry designers in America. He has won DeBeers’ diamond award twice, has been a consultant to Tiffany & Co. and has designed and manufactured a line of jewels for Mikimoto. He is most noted for his work with rare colored diamonds. The pendant looks best worn on a gold snake or wire chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Etienne Perret”, has the maker’s mark, and “18K”. Similar pendants are currently available from Perret, priced at approximately $1,200.

Origin: America, contemporary. Size: 17mm. Condition: excellent, a tiny scratch to the front surface visible upon very close inspection. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

A handsome pair of 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with dogs, their tails straight and one paw lifted “pointing” in classic hunting pose. The gold surfaces have slightly matte finish. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16” x 9/16”
• Weight: 7.1 grams

An elegant 14K gold, Mississippi River pearl and blue sapphire floral pendant in the Art Nouveau taste suspended from a split chain. The flower petals are formed from pearls and center a blue sapphire of fine, intense color. The design is enclosed in a gold frame that resembles the shape of a pretzel! The pendant was originally a brooch and was expertly converted to a pendant by our jeweler. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1900.
Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 5/8"; overall necklace length, 18-7/8".
• Weight: 4.8 grams.
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .15 carat.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Howe. The faces are formed from oval mother-of-pearl plaques surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel and centering small pearls. The enamel borders have exposed gold dots and engraved rims. This particular design is usually seen in white enamel, but the blue makes for a very nice contrast. The connectors are stamped “14K” and have Carter, Gough’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a 1/8” superficial enamel flake on one cufflink visible upon very close inspection in raking light. Dimensions: 1/2" X 3/4". Weight: 9.6 gr.

A nice pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with blue sapphire cabochons. The rectangular faces are engraved in a sunburst pattern, with one end rolled over. A round cabochon sapphire is set in to each end of the opening created by the rolled edge. The stones have fine slightly violet-blue color and good clarity. The backs have toggle closures. The cufflinks are not signed, but are almost certainly by either Larter or Krementz. Marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 ct. Weight: 10.2 gr.

A nice pair of modernist 14K yellow gold and pearl earrings. 5.2-millimeter pearl studs suspend faceted gold bars that, in turn, suspend open-work gold spheres studded with pearls. Each sphere comprises a dozen 4.9 millimeter cultured pearls of very good quality. The body color is cream with rose overtones. The luster is bright and the surfaces are smooth. Each of the spheres is completed with the addition of prong-set seed pearls. The spheres dangle freely and exhibit lots of movement. During the late 1950s and 1960s, scientific knowledge became an inspiration for jewelry designers who began turning pieces like “Sputnik” rings. The arrangement of the pearls and the underlying gold structure of these earrings is clearly based on atomic-level molecule models. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8” long; 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A handsome pair of 14k yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with Essex crystals depicting dogs (definitely terriers, and most likely fox terriers). The dogs are colorfully painted on the reverse-carved crystal and set against mother of pearl backgrounds. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. The toggles are stamped “14K” and have a patent number, indicating the patent was still active when the cufflinks were made.

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Dimensions: 17/32” (14 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 7.2 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no scratches or moisture damage.

A large stylized hibiscus centers this Retro 14K rose and yellow gold pendant necklace. The blossom is set at the center with a round amethyst and is flanked on either side by a pair of small rubies (typical of the period). The bold shape and color contrast make this brooch-to-necklace a most attractive and wearable piece of jewelry. The reverse is stamped 14K and has the maker’s mark for A. J. Hedges.

• Origin: America, ca 1935.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8 x 1-1/8”; necklace length, 19-3/4”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 1.0 carat; ruby, .25 carat.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau four-leaf clover honeymoon watch pin, the leaves beautifully enameled in shades of translucent green, yellow and rust. The 14K yellow gold crescent moon is set with a graduated row of pearls, while an old European cut diamond centers the clover. The back retains the original clasp and watch hook. In Victorian flower language, the clover symbolized "good luck." When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was "honeymoon," and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family. Since the meaning here is "good luck on your honeymoon," we'd have to assume that this particular pin was a gift from the bride's mother rather than from her groom. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" x 1"
• Weight: 3.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 ct

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces enhanced with translucent guilloche enamel in French blue surrounded by a raised laurel wreath border. The faces are attached by arched conectors to beanbacks. Each cufflink is stamped with Carter, Gough & Co.'s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings to gold; normal light wear to enameled surfaces visible under magnification but not apparent to the unaided eye. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1/2". Weight: 7.4 grams.

An elegant 14K rose and yellow gold bow brooch featuring a “knot” invisibly-set calibre-cut green tourmalines. The brooch is also accented with a pair of pearls set in white gold. The tourmalines have very fine bright coloring. The golden bow is worked in both a polished surface and a micro-beaded finish. The latter is a technically difficult texture to achieve and shows the hand of a master jeweler. The back of the pin is marked “RMU” and “585” for 14K gold. The back retains the original trombone clasp.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .76 carat.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold and amber earrings, the square cabochon amber simply set in the gold frame. The prongs holding the amber become an important part of the overall design. The amber has fine, even coloring with a tinge of red, and superb clarity. The backs are stamped for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Laboratorio Ruber, Milan.

Origin: Italy, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" wide; 1-5/32” long to top of wire. Weight: 15.4 gr.

A pretty pair of Art Deco 12K yellow gold, coral and pearl tassel earrings. Lengths of gold chain studded with small pearls and coral beads hang freely from the pearl surmounts. The coral has attractive, uniform color and the semi-baroque pearls have especially bright luster. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn and would have paired nicely with the long chains and fringed gowns fashionable in the 1920s. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold (clutches are 14K).

Origin: England, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, except one pearl that has a flake to the nacre visible upon close inspection. Dimensions: 1-3/8" long. Weight: 3.9 grams.

An extremely rare pair of 18th century silver double-faced cufflinks set with old European cut colorless paste gemstones. The crystals are held in place in traditional cut-down settings typical of the period and the faces are joined with the quatrefoil connector almost always seen on this type of cufflink. The backs of the crystals are foiled in silver to provider a brighter appearance. Cufflinks such as these are usually broken up into two pairs of earrings, so it is quite uncommon to find a pair in original condition.

Origin: England, ca. 1780. Condition: excellent, original patina. Size: 17/32” diameter.

An elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The gold oval reserves are enhanced with engine-turned engraving in a striped pattern and are surrounded by engraved platinum borders. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1910

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16”

Weight: 8.8 grams