Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1586)

A heavy classic belcher chain link necklace in 12K yellow gold. The chain is heavy and solid enough to suspend any of the heavier Victorian lockets or large pendants. It also looks stylish worn simply as a chain. The lobster claw clasp is a replacement and is 14K. The chain itself tests 12K.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Length: 22-5/8" long. Weight: 17.7 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Athena, goddess of wisdom and war, and patron of the arts, in 18K gold. The goddess is depicted with several of her attributes, including a dragon-topped war helmet, a wreath of olive leaves, an owl, and a drama mask representing the arts. Her helmet is studded with a star-set ruby and a band of rose-cut diamonds and she wears a necklace of rose-cut diamonds. This design was created by Louis Armand Rault, a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75. This is once of his most iconic designs, though it is unusual in having quite so many gemstones added. Rault apparently licensed many of his designs to various makers, though the gold examples are French more often than not. This example is fully stamped with French marks for 18K and has an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .05 carat.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from faceted rhodolite garnets of unusually large size centering old European cut diamonds. The purplish-red hue of the garnets contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting and the white diamonds (G, VS2). The backs are finished with toggles. The connectors are stamped with French marks for 18K gold and with the goldsmith's mark (entered in 1913) for the Parisian jeweler Leon Favrin.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: rhodolite, 12.66 cts; diamond, .10 ct.

A fine Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Demeter (Ceres), goddess of the harvest, in 18K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes a tiara of wheat and poppies and a scythe. The wears a rose-cut diamond earring, a diamond toga clasp, and a third in her tiara. Louis Armand Rault was a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. The brooch is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

An 18K yellow gold medallion pendant or charm depicting Emperor Napoleon I. The design pictures Bonaparte as a young man, but the source appears to be Nicolas-Toussaint Charlet's portrait created in 1821, the year of the former Emperor's death. This image is largely credited with creating the myth of Napoleon that lasted throughout the 19th century. The medallion has superb, sharp detail shown in high relief. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, late 19th century
• 1 1/16" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• 12.6 grams

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with an ornately detailed lion’s head. The cat’s mane flares out from the face grasping a round cut diamond and ruby-set eyes. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The gold surfaces have the slightly matte finish popular at the end of the 19th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

A large 18K gold, ruby & diamond love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“more than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand author of “Cyrano,” in 1889. The word plus is represented by a plus sign set with a small rose cut diamond, while “moins” is represented by a minus sign set with small synthetic rubies. The medal is surrounded by a lacy Gothic-style gold border. Alphonse Augis began designing these love medallions in 1907, and the styles have changed over the years.

• Origin: France, ca. 1960.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter.
• Weight: 5.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; ruby, .04 carat.

A classic Venetian Etruscan 18K gold charm set with oval amethysts. The gold surfaces are ornately worked with rosettes, beaded and rope-twist decoration. The amethysts have nice intense violet color that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding gold. Charms of this type are usually extremely large, but this example is in a rare smaller size that’s easier to wear on a bracelet or as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" wide x 1-1/8” high (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 6.99 carats
• Weight: 8.4 grams

For anniversary jewelry, there's nothing more romantic than this rare 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love token (“medaille d’amour”) ring with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a single-cut diamond, and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies. Augis rings are far rarer than pendants and charms.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. The ring is signed “A. Augis,” and is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1955.
• Finger Size: 7 1/4.
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide.
• Weight: 5.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 carat; synthetic ruby, .12 carat.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Created in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes garnet, amethyst, citrine, peridot, and blue topaz. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark. One side of the shank is engraved with a star centering a small diamond, also a Stern branding.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 7/32" wide at front, tapering to 5/32” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight:2.14 carats.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A particularly lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold flower pin in the form of an iris. The flower is enhanced with iridescent enamels in delicate shades of green, cream and purple. A 3-point old mine cut diamond is nestled in the center of the blossom. The flower petals are deeply ruffled and finely engraved for added texture. The back retains the original clasp, stamped with the mark for Whiteside & Blank, but the pinstem has been replaced.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; replaced pinstem. Dimensions: 1-3/4 x 11/16". Weight: 5.7 gr.

A lovely antique 14K yellow gold floral wide band depicting twining branches of roses, each set with a ruby at the center of the petals. The flowers are separated by round brilliant cut diamonds. The band is finished with scalloped edges. The diamonds range from SI1 to I1 with G color. As is typical of the wartime period, the gold has generous weight and the rubies are synthetic. The interior is stamped with “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca 1945
• Condition: very good, typical surface wear to rubies
• Finger Size: 6
• Dimensions: 3/8” wide
• Weight: 6.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .5 carat; diamond, .18 carat

An outstanding Venetian Etruscan Revival 18K yellow gold fob charm in the form of a crown. The bottom of the charm is set with a 9-carat oval brilliant amethyst of nice color. The sides of the charm are set with small round glass gemstones imitating small amethysts. The upper scrolls of the crown enclose a round cultured pearl. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 1” x 1-1/4” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 15.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.04 cts.

A lovely Chinese carved green jade pendant in the form of a melon with a crane, leaf and integral bail ring. The jade has good translucency, light mottling, and nicely saturated color.

The crane, appearing along the upper left side of the melon's front, frequently represents longevity; the coins prosperity; and the melon itself has a number of meanings including fertility and plenty.

The pendant was originally one of several carvings incorporated into a very good 1920s Chinese necklace. Material of that age pre-dates polymer treatments and gemological testing reveals no indication of color enhancement, thus the jade is Type A.

Origin: China, ca. 1915. Condition: very good, no cracks, a 1/8" loss along the bottom edge of the tendril below the crane (could be repolished). Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/2".

NOTE: Other items created from the same antique necklace include Items #1350553, #1350538, and #1350547.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.

Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".

Finger Size: 7 1/4.

An elegant square locket worked in 14K yellow gold. The locket is simply decorated with an engraved laurel leaf border. The cover is set with four rubies surrounding a demantoid garnet. The bail is placed at a corner, so the locket hangs in a diamond shape. The interior retains the original frame insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good, a few pinpoint dings to back cover, never monogrammed
• Dimensions: 1” corner to corner
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .14 carat; demantoid, .08 carat
• Weight: 4.1 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond, and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow”), a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. His designs changed over time and this piece is a classic example from the 1960s. The heart-shaped medallion is surrounded by a border of smaller hearts alternating with prong-set synthetic rubies. The front is signed A.A. and the pendant is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1965
• Condition: very good
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 4.7 grams

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; a miniscule fleabite to the enamel at the edge of one petal.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.8 grams.