Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A fine 18K yellow gold Sputnik charm or pendant by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with 21 round citrines, amethysts, pink and green tourmalines, aquamarines, and garnets. This design was created in the 1950’s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This example is a little darker than most examples, with lots of deeply saturated greens and golds. The sputnik design was made in rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, brooches and charms. Charms are among the less common forms, and this example is large enough to be worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: very good, a 1/8” ding on one side between the gemstones. Dimensions: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.34 cts.

A wonderful figural fob seal depicting England’s patron St. George defeating the dragon. The design is worked primarily in silver, but the horse’s bridle, the dragon’s dorsal ridge and the saint’s spear and shield are worked in yellow gold. The gold base encloses a flat malachite that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed sterling silver and 18K gold.

Origin: probably England, ca. 1860. Condition: very good, some light dings on the mounting around the stone consistent with age. Dimensions: 1’ x 5/8” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 15.9 gr.

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring. This classic modernist design, originally created by H Stern, features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is more pastel than most, with a preponderance of pale pink, green, blue and purple. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Size: 13/16” diameter; 9/16" high. Weight: 4.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.14 cts (amethyst, .82; aquamarine, .83; citrine, .61; green tourmaline, .71; pink tourmaline, 1.17).

Victorian 15K gold garnet lover's knot hair locket. The locket features an unusually bright large garnet cabochon surrounded by a gold frame in a rope twist motif tied with a lover's knot to form the bail. The reverse features a small rock-crystal compartment containing woven hair. Hair lockets could either be love tokens or mourning jewelry or sentimental jewelry. The lover's knot does little to clarify which is the case for this particular piece, though the absence of an engraved date on the reverse suggests that it might have been a love token. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• England, circa 1835.
• 1" x 5/8"
• Weight: 6.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.33 carat

A very finely-made Victorian memorial ring worked in 18K yellow gold and plaited hair. The ring is designed as belt, ornately decorated with open navette- and trefoil-shaped reserves, each showing the loved one’s hair. The gold surfaces are nicely engraved, and the whole is finished off with an ornate buckle centered with a escutcheon engraved with the initials “MW”. In Victorian symbology, the belt represented not only eternal love, but also strength and protection. A ring such as this, tightly surrounding the finger, would be an ever-present reminder. Buckle rings, even those with hair panels, were not always for mourning, but rather sentimental pieces. Since the band is not engraved with a name or death date in the interior, it’s quite likely that this ring was intended as a romantic symbol. The interior of the band is stamped with 18K gold marks for Chester in the year 1883. Rings of this type are much more common in lower purity gold such as 9K or 12K.

• Origin: Chester, England, 1883.
• Dimensions: band, 8/32” wide; buckle, 10/32” wide.
• Finger Size: 9-1/2.
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; hair is perfect.

A heavy pair of 14K gold cufflinks, the faces decorated with a sort of shield-shaped device against a stippled background. The influence of the Art Nouveau aesthetic can be seen in the assymetrical design of the shields. The semi-matte finish of the stippling contrasts nicely with the more polished shield. The backs marked "14K" and have Kirby's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" x 1/2"
• Weight: 9.8 grams

A very attractive Retro 14K yellow gold and platinum ring, set with an old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of round blue sapphires. The stones are set in very interesting mounting with a looping quality typical of Retro pieces. The diamond is I color, I1 clarity and the sapphires are graded as medium tone, moderately strong violet-Blue (vB5/4). Retro pieces set with sapphires are less common than those featuring ruby, citrine, amethyst, etc. The interior of the shank is stamped “585” for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/8” x 3/4”. Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; sapphire, .39 ct.

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old mine cut diamond. The pearls have very attractive lustre and the diamond has nice color and clarity (J/VS2). The back retains the original pendant hook and pinstem/clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A beautiful early Edwardian hair or photo locket, the front worked in a bright pink transparent guilloche enamel over an engraved sunburst background. The enamel is centered by a lustrous natural pearl set in a reeded collet. The back of the locket features a glass window enclosing a space for a small portrait or lock of hair. The space is lined in ivory silk. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, original glass cover. Size: 1” diameter, excluding bale and jump ring. Weight: 7.4 grams.

An elegant Edwardian 14K gold chain comprising bar links engraved in a delicate foliage pattern. The chain is completed with a hidden box clasp. This chain could be worn alone or suspending a single pendant or locket. It would also look fantastic suspending charms between the bar links. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Dimensions: 16 1/2" long
• Condition: excellent
• Weight: 10.8 grams

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold set with cultured pearls by Mikimoto. Each earring features a pair of 7.3mm pearls with very fine luster, blemish-free surfaces and cream body color with rose overtones. The pearls are simply nested in a swirl of gold. The backs are marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a five rose cut diamonds and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example is in the original style with a “crêpe de chine” textured background and floral wreath border. The use of a rose cut diamond, the A. Augis signature and the patent mark indicates that this is an earlier example. The medium-large size is perfect for either a substantial chain or to wear as a bracelet charm. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, 1930.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 7/8” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 6.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .07 carat.

A very rare 14K gold and diamond Art Nouveau medallion watch pin featuring a portrait of Sacagawea. She is shown in profile, wearing a feathered headdress and a bear claw necklace, gazing out over plains dotted with teepees. An old mine cut diamond (G, VVS2) glimmers in place of the sun on the far opposite side. This piece was likely made at the time of the centennial anniversary of the Lewis & Clark Expedition in 1905. The back retains the original watch hook and pinstem. The clasp is marked for 14K and has Larter’s hallmark. The piece can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail.

• America, ca. 1905.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail
• 3/4” diameter
• Weight: 5.2 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

Vintage 18K yellow gold post-back earrings in the "Scribble" design by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The design is sometimes called "Graffiti" or "Squiggle." The earrings were made in various sizes, with this pair being the most delicate and wearable. The backs are dated 1983 and are marked by Tiffany and Picasso.

• Origin: America, ca. 1983
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-7/16"
• Weight: 4.9 grams

A very fine pair of 14K yellow and white gold engine-turned cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant cut blue sapphires. The quality of the engine-turned decoration is truly superb—matched by the selection of bright blue sapphires with excellent clarity. These cufflinks are considerably heavier than most other “flats” from the period. The connectors are stamped “14K” and bear the maker’s mark for Strobell & Crane.

• Origin: America, ca. 1920.
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”.
• Weight: 9.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .25 carat.
• Condition: excellent; all original.

A lovely 14K gold Art Nouveau pin in the form of a bouquet of violets by Krementz. Three flowers on long golden stems are accented with a pair of leaves decorated with iridescent translucent enamel. Each flower comprises five dark purple enameled petals surrounding a seed pearl. In the Victorian flower language, the violet represented modesty. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp, marked 14K and bearing Krementz's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• ConditionL excellent
• Dimensions: 1-13/16" x 7/8"
• Weight: 4.5 grams

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

A very attractive pair of Art Deco cufflinks featuring sugarloaf cabochons of moss agate (“dendritic agate”) in simple 14K gold collet settings. The agates have a very nice pattern of wispy green inclusions against a creamy translucent background. The connectors are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 9/16”
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.0 grams