Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A classic pair of Art Deco sterling silver stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with black onyx sugarloaf cabochons. This style of cufflink was popularized by Cartier in the 1920s. The cufflinks bear Swiss import hallmarks used until 1934, and are stamped "935" indicating that they have a slightly higher pure silver content than sterling silver.

• Origin: Continental Europe, probably France, ca. 1925.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: faces, 11/32"(15 mm) diameter.
• Weight: 10.0 grams.

A colorful pair of doubled-sided French Art Deco enameled silver cufflinks. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are enhanced with champleve enamel in bright opaque red, green and black. The chain connectors are stamped with French silver marks and the backs of the faces have an unidentified maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1920.
• Condition: excellent; light surface scratches commensurate with age, but no chips.
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 13/32" (16 x 10 mm).
• Weight: 5.7 grams.

A fine 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan fob bracelet charm or pendant set with five oval amethysts and four pearls in a crown shape. The gold surfaces are enhanced with twisted wire, rosettes and beading. The amethysts have very attractive medium violet coloring with excellent clarity. The bail is stamped with Italian 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1960.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1" x 1-1/4" (excluding bail).
• Weight: 17.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 14.55 carats.

A fine 19K yellow gold folding ball locket with a capacity for four images. The exterior is decorated with a stippled checkerboard pattern with a belt on either side that holds the sphere closed. When the belts are unlatched, the locket opens accordian-style to reveal the inner frames. These lockets have become increasingly difficult to find. The locket is stamped with Portuguese hallmarks for .800 (19.2K) gold.

• Origin: Porto, Portugal, ca. 1938.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" diameter.
• Weight: 16.5 grams.

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with a rose cut diamond and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example maintains the “crêpe de chine” textured background, but pairs it with the simple beveled border used in the 1950s. The use of a rose cut diamond and the A-Augis signature suggest the earlier part of that period. The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1950.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 15/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring); the size of a quarter.
• Weight: 5.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .08 carat.

A gorgeous enameled clover, worked in several shades of green is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The clover is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Four-leaf clovers are generally associated with good luck, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Be mine." So whether you're in love or just feeling lucky, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; no enamel damage; excellent condition.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 3/4".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 3.7 grams.

A lovely, colorful Art Nouveau 14K gold, seed pearl and enamel pin in the form of a violet by the Newark firm Crane & Theurer. The flower petals are enameled in cream darking gradually through lilac to deep violet along the edges. Each of the petals is finished with an arc of tiny seed pearls echoing the larger pearl set at the flower's center. The reverse is stamped with the maker's hallmark and "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16" x 7/8".
• Weight: 4.1 gr.

An elegant pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with Mediterranean coral. The engraved mountings are set with coral bars and an applied vine motif. The drops can be removed from the surmounts for a more restrained appearance for daytime wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" from top of wire.
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

A stunning Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring an enameled and engraved portrait of Pallas Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, horses and olives. Her beautifully engraved helmet is adorned with a small rose cut diamond. Her armor and the embroidery along the edges of her gown are also engraved. The quality of the painted enamel facial details and the background champleve enamel in royal blue is gorgeous. The edges of the medallion are enhanced with natural pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both stamped with French 18K marks. A folding bail could easily be added to the piece can be worn as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter.
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold pendant and watch pin depicting the Greek goddess Pallas Athena. The design is worked in the medallist style more typical of French Art Nouveau jewelry, but this piece is American. The workmanship is first rate. Athena was the goddess of wisdom, horses and olives, and was the patroness of Athens. Here she is shown wearing her helmet, but it is adorned with wings instead of the usual dragon. Her identity is confirmed, however, with the sprigs of olive leaves and fruit tucked into her helmet. The edges of the pendant are set with small natural pearls. The back is stamped "14K" and retains the original folding bail, pinstem and watch hook.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

A superb pair of Victorian 12K gold articulated earrings set with Whitby jet. The long triangular elements are suspended from inverted double teardrop-shaped surmounts, and support cone-shaped jet drops. The cutting of the jet has a very angular, almost modernist appearance. The earrings hang from new 14K shepherd's hooks and have wonderful movement. The settings are tested and guaranteed 12K.

• Origin: England, ca 1860.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 2-3/16" long from top of the earwire.
• Weight: 3.5 grams.

An imposing 18K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet set with sapphires and diamonds. A row of alternating old mine cut diamonds and cushion cut sapphires stretches across the top of the bracelet, flanked on either side by a row of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The sapphires, each of about .75 carat, are of outstanding quality, with vibrant pure blue coloring, eye-clean clarity, and a velvety appearance. The diamonds, each of about .6 carat, are graded as G/SI1. The bangle is double-hinged so it's very easy to get on. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1850.
• Condition: excellent; a few very small dings on the back side but no major dents or scrapes.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 6-1/2" interior circumference.
• Weight: 34.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.08 carats; diamond, 2.78 carats.

A lovely Art Nouveau depiction of the Greek goddess Iris worked in 14K yellow gold. The goddess wears an elaborate floral headdress punctuated with an old mine cut diamond. Her wings, in folded position, can just be seen behind her shoulders. The brooch is finished with a garland of iris blossoms and foliage. Iris was the goddess of the rainbow and, as such, connected the earthly and heavenly worlds. The back of the brooch retains the original c-clasp and watch hook. It can easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the pinstem appears to be original, but is not gold.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A fine French Victorian 18K gold and shaded enamel pin featuring an image of Raphael's "Madonna della Seggiola". The enamel scene of Mary, Jesus and John the Baptist is beautifully executed with great attention to detail. The gold background is stippled for added texture and a little sparkle. The reverse retains the original pinstem and clasp, both marked with French 18K stamps. There is also a partially visible maker's mark. This piece could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the top.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter
• Weight: 4.75 grams

A stunning mid-19th century brooch featuring a pansy, the lower petals set with rose cut diamonds and the upper petals with buff-cut amethysts of a deep violet hue. The colorful flower is simply presented against a plain gold background. In Victorian flower language, the pansy represented the sentiment "Think of me" and jewels with pansies were often given as love tokens or going away gifts. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the back. The original clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .36 carat; amethyst, 4.5 carats.

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.