Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A striking late Victorian 14K yellow gold crucifix set with sapphires, an old European cut diamond and seed pearls. The diamond is graded at I/SI2 and the sapphires are finely colored and show no indication of heat treatment. The gold surface is "bloomed" for a soft matte texture that enhances the gold color but is subdued enough for the religious purpose of the pendant. The bail is original and is stamped for Bippart, Griscom & Osborn, one of the finest Newark jewelers of the era.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 2-1/14" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 9.2 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .80 carat; diamond, .23 carat

A very attractive pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval turquoise cabochons. The gold is enhanced with foliate engraving. The turquoise has a fine medium greenish-blue color with reddish-brown matrix. Marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.3 grams.

A classic Victorian honeymoon brooch in 14K yellow gold. The traditional crescent shape supports a gold violet enameled in rich shades of rose, purple and cream and accented with green veining on the petals. The flower is centered with a small ruby. In Victorian flower language, the crescent shape represented “moon” and the flower represented sweetness or “honey”, thus “honeymoon”. Pins such as this were popular gifts from grooms to their new brides. The original early safety clasp has an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: very good; a 1/16” flake on the tip of one flower petal; the pinstem is an early gold-filled replacement
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 3/4"
• Weight: 2.5 grams.

An exquisite English Art Nouveau 15K yellow gold pendant,centering a 5.02 carat pear shaped brilliant cut aquamarine with round brilliant pink tourmalines at either side, and suspending a free-hanging oval pink tourmaline. The gold surfaces are set with tiny seed pearls. The use of pastel gemstones is especially elegant and feminine and would have complemented the pale dress fabrics of the Edwardian era. The back of the pendant is engraved "JKM/JKC 1908/1909." It was likely a present to celebrate a first wedding anniversary. Marked 15Ct.

Origin: England, 1908. Condition: excellent, all original including pearl-set bail. Dimensions: 15/16" x 2". Weight: 4.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 5.02 cts; pink tourmaline, .93.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum and 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a caduceus set with 160 old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.90 carats. The principal stone is a square cushion cut, weighs approximately .28 ct, and is F color, VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds range F-I color, VS2 to I1 clarity. The diamonds are set in platinum over 18K yellow gold in the traditional French manner. The mounting is of the finest quality, with superb hand-sawn piercing and millegraining. This quality is further reflected in that the tiny portion of the bail that can be seen from the front when worn as a pendant is worked in platinum rather than gold like the remainder of the bail and the pinstem. The staff terminates at the top and bottom with a lustrous, slightly oval natural pearl.

The back of the piece has a pinstem that can be unscrewed and removed for wear as a pendant with the folding bail. The shape of the bail suggests that there was probably an optional comb fitting so that the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The very finest quality and most expensive jewels of the era sometimes had various fittings so the owner could get as much use from a piece as possible.

The caduceus is the herald's wand carried by the Greek messenger god Hermes (and his Roman counterpart Mercury). It is sometimes topped with spread wings echoing the god's winged sandals. In contemporary usage it is the symbol of the medical profession. This linkage likely stems from the myth of the god Apollo sending Hermes to deliver his half-mortal son Aesculapius from the body of his dead mortal mother as her body was consumed by the fire of her funeral pyre. Aesculapius went on to become a healer and founded the cult of which Hippocrates, the founder of western medicine, was a follower.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8". Weight: 12.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.90 cts.

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces enhanced with translucent guilloche enamel in French blue surrounded by a raised laurel wreath border. The faces are attached by arched conectors to beanbacks. Each cufflink is stamped with Carter, Gough & Co.'s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no dings to gold; normal light wear to enameled surfaces visible under magnification but not apparent to the unaided eye. Dimensions: 3/4" x 1/2". Weight: 7.4 grams.

A wonderful Art Nouveau 14K gold ring in the form of two intertwined snakes surrounding an opal cabochon. The ornately coiled snakes are beautifully detailed. The opal has attractive play-of-color, with a preponderance of green and blue with sparks of red and orange. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

In the 19th century, snakes in jewelry symbolized eternal love. Jeweled snakes became particularly popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring for their betrothal, and remained popular throughout the century.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide tapering to 1/16"
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Weight: 3.1 grams

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Howe. The faces are formed from oval mother-of-pearl plaques surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel and centering small pearls. The enamel borders have exposed gold dots and engraved rims. This particular design is usually seen in white enamel, but the blue makes for a very nice contrast. The connectors are stamped “14K” and have Carter, Gough’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a 1/8” superficial enamel flake on one cufflink visible upon very close inspection in raking light. Dimensions: 1/2" X 3/4". Weight: 9.6 gr.

A lovely silver, plique-a-jour enamel, mother-of-pearl, and paste pendant in the German Art Jugendstil or Nouveau taste. The pendant is worked with very attractive enameled cells in shades of teal, cream and rose. German Art Nouveau pieces from the Pforzheim school tend to be more linear and symmetrical than those from France, and this piece is a classic example. The use of a collet-set mother-of-pearl oval is the center position is very typical of the work of Otto Prutscher, the leading German Art Nouveau jewelry designer. The back is marked "Depose 900" and is signed "HS" or "SH".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: appears to be converted from a brooch; no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/8" x 1"; chain 16-1/2" long. Weight: 6.3 gr.

A beautiful Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a drop centering an oval opal surrounded by a wreath of translucent green-enameled laurel leaves. Further enameling accents the bottom and top of the drop. The pendant also incorporates pearls that are echoed at intervals along the chain. The natural pearls along the chain alternate in shades of vivid, pale pink and bluish-white. The opal has fine play of color, mostly in the blue and green parts of the spectrum with some flashes of orange and red. The chain is constructed so the necklace can be worn at 15-1/2” or 14-1/2” lengths (it could easily be lengthened). The pendant is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, clasp replaced, no enamel damage. Dimensions: pendant drop, 1-1/4” x 2-1/8”. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.56 cts.

A very handsome 10K yellow gold man’s ring, the setting featuring an Art Nouveau take on Gothic arches. A bezel set oval brilliant-cut amethyst crowns the ring. Stones set in this style of ring can often appear too dark, but this amethyst has a pleasant moderate color that reads violet even from a distance. The interior of the shank is stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter and 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 5/8” wide at crown, tapering to 5/32” at the back of the shank. Weight: 7.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.38 cts.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A delightful late Victorian or Edwardian pendant in the form of a poodle jumping through a hoop. The wonderfully detailed poodle is cast in sterling silver and the hoop is 14K gold. The dog is fully three-dimensional, and the eyes are set with small pyrope garnets. The pendant is marked “14K Sterling.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 3/8” x 1-1/4”
Weight: 11.2 grams

A very nice 32nd Degree Masonic fob in the form of a double-headed eagle. The bird grasps a platinum saber in its talons. The heads are crowned with a triangular emblem with enameled decoration, which then leads to a short fob chain and a buttonhole bar. The triangular emblem is hinged so that the eagle always hangs nicely. The detailing of the bird’s feathers, the hilt of the sword, etc. is superb. The bale is stamped 14K and bears the hallmarks of J.J. Sommer & Co.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage, sharp detail.
• Dimensions: overall length, 2-9/16”; eagle, 1-3/16” x 7/8.
• Weight: 7.9 grams.

An Art Nouveau 14K gold ring featuring an oval carnelian cabochon set in a marquise-shaped surround decorated with a stylized foliage pattern. The 6x8mm carnelian has very nice coloring and good translucency. Originally a stickpin, a 14K gold shank has been added.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: crown 5/8” wide
• Finger Size: 6 1/2
• Weight: 1.6 grams

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks featuring oval agate cabochons collet-set in 10K yellow gold. The stones are an interesting honey color streaked with rust and gray. The connectors are marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4" x 3/8”.