Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A beautiful early Edwardian hair or photo locket, the front worked in a bright pink transparent guilloche enamel over an engraved sunburst background. The enamel is centered by a lustrous natural pearl set in a reeded collet. The back of the locket features a glass window enclosing a space for a small portrait or lock of hair. The space is lined in ivory silk. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, original glass cover. Size: 1” diameter, excluding bale and jump ring. Weight: 7.4 grams.

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of bluish-purple is featured in this pendant converted from a Victorian pin. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a pearl. The conversion was accomplished with the addition of a hidden bail the back of the flower. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this pendant is perfect! Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: We are offering a matching ring converted from the same Victorian pin. Item #1412578.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: converted from a brooch; a tiny nick to the purple at white enamel at the center for the flower behind the pearl visible upon close inspection
• Dimensions: 1 1/8" x 1 1/8"
• Weight: 6.1 grams.

A superb pair of 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Co., the faces decorated with a representation of Sandro Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus.” The jeweler took a few liberties with Botticelli’s design by having the goddess walking atop roiling waves rather than standing in a scallop shell, and fully baring her breasts instead of modestly covering them with her own flowing hair. The bean backs are designed with a swirling pattern that mimics the waves of the front faces. The connectors are stamped with Carter, Gough’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16” x 1/2"
• Weight: 6.7 grams

A very rare Art Nouveau Mardi Gras ball favor jewel in 14K gold depicting Greek goddess. The exposed areas of gold have a soft "bloomed" finish typical of higher quality Art Nouveau jewels that constrasts beautifully with the translucent enamels. The back is stamped "14K" and is engraved "COMUS 1908."

The Mystick Crewe of Comus is the oldest and most exclusive of New Orleans' Mardi Gras organizations. The theme selected for the 1908 event was "Gods & Goddesses." Favors were bestowed on the ladies in attendance. Usually, these were inexpensive items, but in 1908, the "trinket" were these lovely gold pins.

• Origin: America, 1908
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1" x 7/8"
• Weight: 5.5 grams.

An elegant Victorian 10K yellow gold locket depicting a curving branch of poppies with a small star-set old mine cut diamond to one side. The reverse has a period monogram. Tested and guaranteed 10K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 4.2 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau ring converted from an antique French 18K gold stickpin. The gold clover is decorated with small natural pearls on each leaf arranged around a small bright green emerald. The stem is worked in platinum and is set with a small mine-cut diamond for a little added sparkle. The 18K gold and platinum clover is attached to a 14K yellow gold band.
Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Clover Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 1.7 gr.

An elegant heavy gold bracelet comprised of linked chains decorated with three-leaf clovers. In Victorian flower symbology, clover leaves, regardless of their number signified good luck, but they also held the meaning “think of me.” Kauffer was the primary jeweler of the Ecole de Nancy, France’s most important group of Art Nouveau artisans. He exhibited at the Louvre during his lifetime. Unlike the more florid Art Nouveau designs by Parisian jewelers, Kauffer’s designs tended to be more linear and graphic. The bracelet’s clasp is stamped with the 18K gold marks used outside Paris until 1919, with Kauffer’s maker’s mark, and also with Kauffer’s signature.

• Origin: France, ca 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long.
• Weight: 32.7 grams.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; a miniscule fleabite to the enamel at the edge of one petal.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.8 grams.

A very attractive pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval turquoise cabochons. The gold is enhanced with foliate engraving. The turquoise has a fine medium greenish-blue color with reddish-brown matrix. Marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 11/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 4.3 grams.

A very handsome and heavy pair of double-sided 18K gold cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with stripes of engine-turned engraving and translucent royal blue guilloche enamel. The faces are joined by chains. Both the faces and the individual chain links are fully marked for Sheffield, 1905 and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: Sheffield, England, 1905
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions; faces, 3/4” x 9/16”
• Weight: 11.0 grams

A beautiful 18K yellow gold locket in the Art Nouveau taste, the front cover depicting a water nymph, her streaming hair entwined with seaweed studded with small rose-cut diamonds. Her ear is adorned with an earring in the form of a coral branch. Her head appears just above delicately rippling waves that high the word “Eau” for water. This design was part of a four-part series designed by Bargas representing the four elements of earth, air, fire and water. They are sometimes seen as buttons, but very rarely worked in gold and used as a locket. Like many French lockets of the period, this example opens by swiveling sideways rather than being hinged. The interior retains its original fittings and glass cover. The back cover has the slightly matte finish typical of Art Nouveau jewels and has a period “ES” monogram. The bail is fully hallmarked with 18K gold marks and with the maker’s mark (partially obscured).

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-1/8” x 1-3/8” excluding jumpring). Weight: 9.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

Three rich deeply-colored pear-shaped sapphires for the petals of the trefoil in this elegant pendant necklace. The flower is centered with a rose cut diamond. The sapphires are excellent quality with a velvety violetish-blue appearance. The trefoil’s stem curls around on itself to for the Art Nouveau styled border of the pendant. The 18K pendant was originally a brooch but has been given new life as a pendant necklace with the addition of a 14K gold cable chain.

• Origin: France, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 11/16” diameter; necklace length, 18-1/2”.
• Weight: 8.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .89 carat; diamond, .02 carat.

A beautiful dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, the round faces set with abalone disks encircled by platinum borders. The abalone has fine guilloche carving in a chrysanthemum pattern and the platinum borders are decorated with an engraved laurel wreath design. The abalone has very nice luster with overtones of rose and green. Abalone cufflinks are richer looking and much more uncommon than mother-of-pearl. The backs of each piece are stamped with the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: cufflinks, 14 mm (9/16 in) diameter; studs, 8 mm (5/16 in) diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with dogs, their tails straight and one paw lifted “pointing” in classic hunting pose. The gold surfaces have slightly matte finish. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings
• Dimensions: faces, 13/16” x 9/16”
• Weight: 7.1 grams

A wonderful Art Nouveau 14K gold ring in the form of two intertwined snakes surrounding an opal cabochon. The ornately coiled snakes are beautifully detailed. The opal has attractive play-of-color, with a preponderance of green and blue with sparks of red and orange. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

In the 19th century, snakes in jewelry symbolized eternal love. Jeweled snakes became particularly popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring for their betrothal, and remained popular throughout the century.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 3/8" wide tapering to 1/16"
• Condition: excellent
• Finger Size: 7
• Weight: 3.1 grams

A nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold signet ring that appears never to have been engraved. The shoulders are enhanced with scrolling foliage leading up to the oval face. It’s very unusual to find a signet ring that was never engraved. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, very light wear to decorative elements at the shoulders
• Dimensions: face, 5/8” x 1/2"
• Finger Size: 8-1/2
• Weight: 9.3 grams

A terrific pair of earrings in the form of round shakudo plaques set in 14K yellow gold borders. Each of the matching Meiji-period discs features a Japanese immortal or scholar along with a fearsome dragon. Details of the dragon’s scales and fins and the man’s staff are picked out in gold and copper highlights. The gold borders are simply decorated with a ropetwist motif. The earwires are later additions. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” diameter; 1-1/2” from top of wire.