Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A classic Pforzheim school silver Jugendstil brooch decorated with plique-a-jour enamels, moldavite and seed pearls. The translucent enamels have the velvety texture and very subtle coloring typical of many Pforzheim jewels of the period. The reverse is marked "Depose 900" and has the maker's mark for Karl Hermann (Hermann & Speck), one of the leading German Art Nouveau jewelers.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, some light crazing to enamel, but no unstable or missing pieces. Dimension: 1-1/4" x 1-3/8". Weight: 5.2 grams.

A beautifully romantic French Art Nouveau heart-shaped coin purse, bordered in square cut blue sapphires and centered with a heart-shaped sapphire. The sapphires have very slightly violetish-blue sapphires color and eye clean clarity. The frame is engraved in a geometric pattern and the closure is set with cabochon sapphires. The frame's interior is engraved with a pair of serial numbers, indicating the purse was made by one of the more important French joailliers at the turn of the century. The frame retains the original bail that would originally have allowed the purse to be suspended from a bracelet or finger ring at a formal ball or similar society event. The back of the frame is stamped with French hallmarks. We've never before seen a heart-shaped gold mesh purse!

• Origin: France, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
• Weight: 18.9 grams.

A very fine 14K gold stickpin in the form of a horse's head by Sloan & Co. They eye is set with a small ruby cabochon. The horse is entirely three-dimensional, worked with as much detail on the back as the front. The stick pin can easily be converted to a pendant or ring. The base of the neck is stamped with Sloan's 14K gold mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: head, 7/8" 5/8"; overall length, 2 15/16".
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

An exceptionally fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a pansy blossom highlighted with enamel. The enamel decoration is absolutely spectacular. Shades of translucent pink, chartreuse and maroon blend to create a very realistic, soft appearance. The flower is centered with an old European cut diamond of very fine quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and eyelet for a watch hanger. Though unsigned, the brooch was made by Whiteside & Blank, one of the finest Newark makers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

A delightful Japanese silver and patinated steel short watch fob suspending a heart shaped locket decorated with gold and silver shakudo style inlay. One side of the locket is decorated with a beautifully worked iris and foliage, while the other side has a pair of inlaid swallows. The interior is engraved, either with the maker’s name or with an affectionate inscription. This is a most unusual adaptation of the Western imagery of the heart as a love token with the late 19th century Japanese aesthetic.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, patination intact. Size: overall, 5-5/8” long; heart, 11/16” x 21/32”. Weight: 17.5 grams.

A very attractive pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with oval cabochon amethysts. The stones are not foiled and have very good medium-violet color. The backs are stamped “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Larter & Sons.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 7/16”
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 15.96 carats
• Weight: 9.7 grams

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A beautifully-carved hardstone cameo depicting Libertas, the Roman goddess of liberty. She can be identified from the shape of the diadem she wears in her hair. The image is quite similar to American "Morgan" silver dollars from the late 19th century. The color contrast of the stone is quite remarkable. The carnelian cameo is set into an intricate gold setting in the Etruscan Revival taste. The back has both a brooch fitting and a hidden bail for wear as a pendant. The back is stamped "14K" and also has the maker's mark for Perley Bros.

NOTE: The piece is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; no cameo damage.
• Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-3/16".
• Weight: 6.8 grams. Fabulous late Victorian hardstone cameo brooch. The carnelian cameo represents "Liberty" and is very similar to the Liberty head that appeared on "Morgan" silver dollars and quarters of the period. The 14K mounting is floridly decorated with millegraining, applied beads and rosettes, and rope twist borders. The reverse retains its original pinstem and modified c-clasp. The reverse is marked 14K and is signed for the maker, Perley Bros. of New York. Origin: America, 1870s. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-11/16" x 1-1/4".

A handsome pair of French silver Art Nouveau cufflinks, the faces decorated with a young woman against a spider web background. In Art Nouveau jewelry, the spider web motif was meant to symbolize entrapment and danger—in this case as a counterpoint to the maiden who suggests innocence. The outer edges of the faces follow the geometric shape of the spider web at the top, but are more rounded at the bottom of the design where the woman’s hair and clothing flows. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs engraved in a whiplash curve motif. The cufflinks are illegibly stamped with the maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original, very good detail. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 3.9 gr.

A gorgeous and generously sized Art Nouveau 14K gold and diamond locket by Carter, Gough & Co. The cover features a maiden emerging from a bouquet of flowers. The choice of flowers in the bouquet sends a very specific hidden meaning in Victorian floral symbolism. The iris on the left means, "I have a message for you," and the jonquil on the right means, "I desire a return of affection." The flowers and the maiden's hair are studded with six old mine cut diamonds. The background is worked in a stippled pattern that contrasts beautifully with the hand-chased design. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram "MCR". The interior retains the original frame and is engraved "June 30, 1903." The interior is stamped with Carter, Gough's hallmark.

• America, 1903
• 1-1/2" diameter (excluding the bail and jump ring)
• 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A fine pair of Victorian bean-back cufflinks, each oval face set with a round color-change sapphire flanked by a pair of old European cut diamonds. The sapphires change from blue in sunlight to violet in incandescent light. One stone exhibits a more pronounced color change than the other. This is normal because of the difficulty in matching a pair of stones for size, clarity and color under varying lighting conditions. The diamonds are fine quality with bright color. The gold surfaces have the softly-bloomed matte texture prized in the Art Nouveau era. The bean backs have original bright-cut monograms. Marked “14K” and with an unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 1/2”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .44 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A handsome pheasant struts his stuff in this expertly-carved and painted Essex reverse crystal set in 14K yellow gold. The bird is presented against a landscape subtly-colored foliage and mounted on a rail fence setting. Animal jewelry featuring crystals as large as this are increasingly difficult to find. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no water damage.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 1”.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

An extraordinary pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the shape of thistles. The leaves and choke of the thistle are bead-set with round cut emeralds, while the blossoms are set with pale round cut amethysts. The emeralds, though small, have medium-dark tone, intensely saturated green color. Though the individual stones are small, the strength of color creates a very good appearance, and there is no sign of treatment. The faces are connected by chains to ropetwist baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 13.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, .48 ct; emerald, 1.08 cts.

A very fine pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring almandite garnets. The faces are decorated with a foliate border. The gold surface has the semi-matte Russian finish sometimes found on better jewels of the period. The beanback connectors are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

An astonishing figural pendant necklace featuring a natural semi-baroque pearl in the shape of a pear, accented with platinum and 18K yellow gold leaves and a stem, all set with old European cut diamonds. The pearl has very fine orient, with all the colors of the rainbow skating over the creamy white surface. The diamonds are graded at an average of H/SI1. Converted from an Edwardian stickpin, the pear is now a gorgeous pendant hanging from a French 18K white gold chain.

NOTE: The pendant is also available without the chain for $1050.

• France, ca. 1910.
• Excellent condition; pendant converted from a stickpin.
• Pendant, 11/16" x 1/2"; overall necklace length, 16-3/8".
• 3.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .26 carat.

A very fine 14K multicolored gold pendant/pin in the form of a ruffled pansy. Each of the petals is subtly sahded from rose gold at the edges through shades of yellow and finally, to a grayish gold (possibly platinum) where the petals join. The surface is finished with a lightly stippled texture. The center of the flower is set with a round blue sapphire and three of the petals are set with old mine cut diamond "dew drops". The diamonds are small, but are very good quality (F/VVS1) and sapphire has rich violetish-blue coloring. The reverse retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is marked "Pat." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: sapphire .39 carat; diamond, .08 carat.

Pretty late Victorian pink and white shell cameo set in a 10K yellow gold frame with floral engraving. The back of the setting has both the original pinstem and the original folding bale, so that the piece can be worn as either a brooch or pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, except a fracture near the left edge (perhaps a flaw in the shell itself). Size: 1" x 7/8".