Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A delicate 14K yellow gold bracelet by Krementz fashioned as a chain of pansy blossoms. Each pansy is centered with a small baroque pearl. Alternating links are in a foliate style and are set with round brilliant cut amethysts. Pansies held special meaning in the Victorian period as flowers of remembrance. The use of purple and white gems mimics the flower’s most classic coloring. The cleverly concealed clasp is marked with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/16” wide, overall length, 7”. Weight: 12.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.06 cts.

A very nice pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces featuring discs of mother-of-pearl surrounded by opaque white enameled borders and centered with small pearls set in platinum. The mother-of-pearl is very lustrous with nice overtones of green and rose. The white enamel borders are punctuated with small gold dots to relieve the all-white surfaces. These cufflinks would look especially good on a dark shirt. The cufflinks are unmarked, but are in a style typical of the better Newark jewelers at the beginning of the 20th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: faces, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A fine late Victorian 14K yellow gold animal pin in the form of an owl sitting on a branch. The details of the feathers and tree bark are beautifully rendered. The eyes are set with two small garnet cabochons. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped "14K" and also has an unidentified maker's mark. This piece could be worn as a pin or suspended from a chain as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 5/8". Weight: 7.1 gr.

A lovely silver, plique-a-jour enamel, mother-of-pearl, and paste pendant in the German Art Jugendstil or Nouveau taste. The pendant is worked with very attractive enameled cells in shades of teal, cream and rose. German Art Nouveau pieces from the Pforzheim school tend to be more linear and symmetrical than those from France, and this piece is a classic example. The use of a collet-set mother-of-pearl oval is the center position is very typical of the work of Otto Prutscher, the leading German Art Nouveau jewelry designer. The back is marked "Depose 900" and is signed "HS" or "SH".

Origin: Germany, ca. 1900. Condition: appears to be converted from a brooch; no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/8" x 1"; chain 16-1/2" long. Weight: 6.3 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks by Carter, Gough & Howe. The faces are formed from oval mother-of-pearl plaques surrounded by borders of opaque royal blue enamel and centering small pearls. The enamel borders have exposed gold dots and engraved rims. This particular design is usually seen in white enamel, but the blue makes for a very nice contrast. The connectors are stamped “14K” and have Carter, Gough’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a 1/8” superficial enamel flake on one cufflink visible upon very close inspection in raking light. Dimensions: 1/2" X 3/4". Weight: 9.6 gr.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold enameled pin with swirling foliage surrounding a bezel-set amethyst. The enamel is worked in delicate translucent shades of violet, cream and green. Small seed pearls flank the nicely-colored amethyst. The clasp is marked with Krementz' 14K hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pin set with an aquamarine and enameled in shades of blue and green (Item #1414818)

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-1/2" x 9/16"
• Weight: 3.6 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: .75 carat.

A lovely 14K gold pendant necklace featuring a colorfully enameled violet blossom centered with a seed pearl and suspending a freshwater pearl. The flower petals and leaves are enhanced with translucent enamels in shades of purple, green, yellow and burgundy. In Victorian flower symbology, the violet represented "modesty." The pendant is suspended from its original chain, marked 14K on the clasp. The pendant is unmarked, but tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage
• Dimensions: pendant, 3/8" x 15/16"; chain length, 16"
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

An elegant pair of earrings featuring Type A (untreated) green jadeite beads and 14K yellow gold beads taken from an ornate antique Chinese necklace (ca. 1900) that was far too worn to salvage. The jadeite beads are semi-translucent, with even coloring and moderately-fine texture. The gold beads have applied vermicelli decoration. The earrings are finished with 14K yellow gold posts and clutches. Other elements taken from the same antique necklace can be seen in Items #1350538,

Origin: China, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: beads, 6.2mm diameter; overall length, 1-3/16".

NOTE: Other pieces created from the original antique necklace include Items #1350538, #1344595, and 1350553.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in silver and 10K yellow gold. The pendant consists of an openwork triangular silver plaque with a pair of plique-a-jour enameled mistletoe leaves below a band of opals and above a band of brilliant green moldavites, themselves over a square-cut pink tourmaline suspending a semi-baroque pearl drop. The whole is suspended from a round brilliant cut pink tourmaline set in gold. The combination of colored gemstones is lovely and nicely accents the enamel. The opals have a particularly nice play of color in tones of blue and reddish-orange. The overall design strongly suggests the work of the Pforzheim studios in Germany, but the “Sterling” markings on the back indicate an American origin.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 1-5/16” x 2” (to top of bale). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, .96 ct; opal, .33 ct; moldavite, .20 ct. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A very fine round platinum, diamond and pearl brooch depicting a flower in full blossom being visited by a small insect. The flower’s leaves and petals are set with mine-cut diamonds, as are the insect’s wings. The insect’s body is formed from a small natural pearl and pearls also adorn the flower in several places. The delicacy of the design is amazing. The diamonds are very good quality and the pearls have lovely iridescence. The brooch retains its original safety clasp and 18K gold pinstem. The brooch is signed “Tiffany & Co.” and has an engraved inventory number. Tested and guaranteed platinum. This piece could be worn as a pendant simply by passing a fine platinum chain through one of the openings or by adding a folding bail.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 4.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

A very good pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with profiles of Greek or Roman gods. The faces are beautifully detailed against a stippled background and are finished with deliberately eroded edges to suggest antiquity. The designs are in the style of George Shiebler's "Curio Medallion" or "Homeric" patterns and are easily the equal of Shiebler's craftsmanship. The faces are finished in high-karat gold that lends them a brighter, yellower appearance than the backs. The connectors are stamped "14K" and have a hallmark that appears to be that of L. E. Garrigus & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Weight: 7.2 grams. Condition: excellent; strong detail; a testing scratch on one connector. Dimensions: faces, 3/4 x 1/2 inch.

A fine and very lovely Art Nouveau pendant or brooch worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold, every visible surface is set with old mine cut and old European cut diamonds of various sizes. The design depicts are central flower surrounded by foliage twisted into whiplash curves and sprinkled with flower buds. The construction is very solid and quite heavy, but the openwork maintains a feeling of lightness. The back retains the original pinstem and safety clasp as well as a folding bale so the jewel can be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/32” x 1-3/32” (excluding bale). Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.4 carats.

A particularly nice Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold brooch in the form of a floral spray. The strap-like leaves are worked in shaded green enamels, and the flowers are made from freshwater "dogtooth" pearls centered with old mine cut diamonds. The pearls have particularly attractive silvery luster and their irregular shapes beautifully mimic the frilly edges of flower petals. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. Marked by Henry Freund & Bro.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, a very small enamel flake at the upper tip of the top leaf just beneath the pearl flower. Dimensions: 1-1/13" x 7/8". Weight: 4.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 ct.

A fine pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold cufflinks by Krementz, both the front and back faces with repousse decoration of a roaring lion’s head. The backs are more typically plain bean-backs rather than decorated. The cufflinks are marked with Krementz’ 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 3/4"; back faces, 3/8” x 1/2". Weight: 5.0 grams.

A fine pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each face comprises a large baroque pearl beautifully mounted in a variation of a buttercup setting. The pearls have fine, lustrous surfaces with pronounced orient in shades of green and rose over a light bluish-gray body color. The navette-shaped back faces are fashioned from plaques of mother-of-pearl set in milligrained gold borders. The mother-of-pearl is particularly nice, with luster and overtones equal to those of the baroque pearls. Because the mother-of-pearl faces are sufficiently large, this pair of cufflinks can be worn with either face on the outside, providing two completely different looks. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably American, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 19/32” x 7/16”; back faces, 15/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 11.3 grams.

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with round brilliant cut amethysts in collet settings. The necklace is completed with a dog clip clasp. The chain can be worn at is full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 16.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.6 carats

An elegant 5-piece dress set worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum by Carrington. The set, comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, features round mother-of-pearl faces enclosed within engraved platinum borders and centered with small natural pearls. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each piece is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Size: cufflink faces, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter.

An elegant love knot pendant in 18K gold and platinum set with rose cut diamonds and a ruby at the center. The gold surface has a matte finish typical of French jewelry at the end of the 19th century. The pendant was originally a scarf clip and still retains the clip mechanism. A double bail allows it to be worn as a pendant. The bail's surface finish matches the rest of the knot, and the maker's marks are applied to the bail rather than to the body of the clip, suggesting that the double bail is original to the piece. NOTE: The chain is shown only for display purposes.

• France, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; original finish; no dings.
• 11/16" diameter (excluding bail).
• 2.8 grams.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush purple, cream, maroon, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round brilliant cut diamond. Though this example is unmarked, it is likely by A. J. Hedges. Hedges’ enameled flowers stood out from the competition because they were generally heavier and displayed more sculptural detail. The diamond is graded H/SI2. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp, and folding pendant bail. The bail is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-3/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 11.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .16 carat.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold watch fob in the form of a pair of dolphin-like fish facing one another. The bodies are scaly and they have ornate flowing gills in the classical manner. The oval seal is engraved with a four-letter monogram and also T. E. Co. 1918. The fob retains its original reeded jump ring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1918. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Weight: 4.7 grams. Size: 1-5/8” x 1”.

You know you'll live a life of good luck when you're wearing this 14K gold upturned horseshoe pendant necklace. The horseshoe is adorned with blue enameled forget-me-nots, flowers that conveyed exactly that meaning in the Victorian language of flowers. Originally a brooch, the horseshoe has been converted to a pendant with the addition of a delicate 14K gold split cable chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a brooch; excellent enamel.
• Dimensions: pendant, 7/8" x 7/8"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.0 grams.

A phenomenal Edwardian platinum and 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a caduceus set with 160 old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.90 carats. The principal stone is a square cushion cut, weighs approximately .28 ct, and is F color, VVS2 clarity. The smaller diamonds range F-I color, VS2 to I1 clarity. The diamonds are set in platinum over 18K yellow gold in the traditional French manner. The mounting is of the finest quality, with superb hand-sawn piercing and millegraining. This quality is further reflected in that the tiny portion of the bail that can be seen from the front when worn as a pendant is worked in platinum rather than gold like the remainder of the bail and the pinstem. The staff terminates at the top and bottom with a lustrous, slightly oval natural pearl.

The back of the piece has a pinstem that can be unscrewed and removed for wear as a pendant with the folding bail. The shape of the bail suggests that there was probably an optional comb fitting so that the piece could be worn as a hair ornament. The very finest quality and most expensive jewels of the era sometimes had various fittings so the owner could get as much use from a piece as possible.

The caduceus is the herald's wand carried by the Greek messenger god Hermes (and his Roman counterpart Mercury). It is sometimes topped with spread wings echoing the god's winged sandals. In contemporary usage it is the symbol of the medical profession. This linkage likely stems from the myth of the god Apollo sending Hermes to deliver his half-mortal son Aesculapius from the body of his dead mortal mother as her body was consumed by the fire of her funeral pyre. Aesculapius went on to become a healer and founded the cult of which Hippocrates, the founder of western medicine, was a follower.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2-3/8" x 2-3/8". Weight: 12.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.90 cts.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with natural pearls and sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright royal blue sapphire. The sapphire has an almost velvety appearance. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" x 7/16" (11x11mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: sapphire, .28 ct; diamond, .04 ct.

A very attractive pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces decorated with a swirling motif centering pairs of beautifully-colored opals. The opals have very good play-of-color with a preponderance of green and blue with a hint of orange-red. The backs of the faces are stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: very good, no dings to gold; one opal has a small chip that is only visible under very close inspection in raking light. Dimeions: faces, 3/4 x 7/16 in. Weight: 6.7 grams.

A very nice late Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in a pierced scrolling design. The front features a row of three square cabochon rhodolite garnets set diagonally. The rhodolites have a lovely purplish hue that distinguishes them from their more common all reddish-brown garnet cousins. The bangle is fairly wide, but the piercing gives it an elegant lightness. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-1/4”
• Approximate Total Rhodolite Garnet Weight: 3.3 carats
• Weight: 23.8 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold ring set with an oval brilliant-cut citrine. The setting is particularly elegant. The stone is flanked on either side by a golden fuschia blossom. The citrine is of the very best quality, with extremely saturated orangey-gold color and exceptional brilliance. The interior of the shank is stamped 585 for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 2.18 cts.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a target motif of diamonds, rubies and platinum. The cushion cut rubies have nicely-saturated bright color that contrasts well with the old mine cut diamonds at the centers. Chains connect the faces to platinum and gold torpedo backs, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The faces are marked “18” and have an unidentified European hallmark.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 ct; ruby, .62 ct.

The pansy carries the message "Think of me" in the Victorian language of flowers. Certainly, the giver of this beautiful enameled gold pansy ring will be thought of often and fondly. The beautiful violet, cream, yellow and black enamels have a velvety texture to suggest the feel of a real pansy's petals and the whole is set off by a sparkling old mine cut diamond at the center. Originally a Victorian stick pin, this flower is now ready for daily wear with the addition of a 14K gold split shank.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a stick pin; enamel is in perfect condition except for a small area about 3/32" that is mostly hidden by the petals in front of it (much less noticeable in person than in the photos).
• Dimensions: pansy, 9/16" x 9/16".
• Finger Size: 6-3/4.
• Weight: 3.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

A generously-sized 14K gold locket featuring the image of a young woman wearing a bandeau of old mine cut diamonds in her flowing hair that extends to the edges of the locket, appearing almost as cresting waves. The interior retains the original frame insert. Marked "14K".

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: 1 1/4" diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail; the back has a monogram removal
• Weight: 11.4 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .09 carat

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral brooch featuring an ornate lily blossom enameled in translucent shades of blue and yellow enamel. The engraving of the gold surface under the enamel shows through to add elegant texture. The flower is centered by a small old mine cut diamond and is surrounded by a swirling frame set with 59 seed pearls. The reverse retains the original watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced clasp. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A very attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with round brilliant cut amethysts. The stones have a beautiful, rich color with nice brilliancy. Amethysts used in cufflinks of the period were more frequently cut en cabochon rather than fully faceted as are these. The gold surfaces have a the soft matte “bloomed” or “Russian” finish sometimes seen on jewels from the Art Nouveau period. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 4.58 carats.

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with an ornately detailed lion’s head. The cat’s mane flares out from the face grasping a round cut diamond and ruby-set eyes. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The gold surfaces have the slightly matte finish popular at the end of the 19th century. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter. Weight: 7.9 gr. Diamond Weight: .05 ct.

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

A nice Edwardian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternate links between smaller gilt links. The chain is finished with a niello swivel dog clip at one end and a large bolt with repousse and gilt decoration on the other. The chain is stamped with Swiss 800 silver marks used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 11-1/4”
• Weight: 16.0 grams

A rare pair of sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the faces with very detailed images of a Native American in profile. The Indian's long hair is woven with feathers and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with stalks of corn. These latter details are very much in the Art Nouveau taste. The backs of the cufflinks are marked "Sterling." Both Unger and Kerr made an Indian design with a full-face image. These cufflinks are of equal quality, but we do not know the maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16 x 1/2". Weight: