Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A beautiful pair of heavy 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks by Larter, each face featuring a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The faces are worked with engine-turned engraving in a complex sunburst and floral pattern, while the platinum borders are engraved in a beaded pattern against a stippled background. Even the hinged bridge connectors are beautifully engraved. The diamonds are of nice quality and good color. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .392 carat.

Extraordinary pair of early Cartier cufflinks, the round faces featuring brilliant green guilloche enamel in a starburst pattern, bordered with rose-cut diamonds set in delicate double-milgrained platinum borders. The enamel plaques are engraved in a manner that gives the enamel a distinct two-toned appearance and are set into 18K yellow gold backs that are attached to one another with gold chain links. The chains have a spring ring clasp, so one face can be removed for ease in attaching the cufflinks to a shirt. The backs are signed "Cartier Paris" and have serial numbers. The cufflinks are appropriately marked with "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold (the cufflinks predate the law requiring marks for platinum). Enameled Cartier cufflinks of this quality simply do not appear on the market.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, light surface wear to enamel visible under 10x magnification. Weight: 9.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.52 cts.

A pretty Victorian stick pin, the head in the form of an enameled pansy centering a 1-point old mine-cut diamond. The petals are detailed in shades of white, lavender and black. The coloring is applied in a way that makes the petals look ruffled. In the Victorian language of flowers, the pansy represented remembrance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, there are some enamel imperfections at the edges of the petals that are original to the making. Size: head, 1/4" x 1/4"; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

A stunning pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold cufflinks by Carrington, the faces designed as dolphins stylized as sea monsters. The creatures are beautifully designed with detailed scales, fins and gaping mouths. The eyes are set with G/VS1 old mine cut diamonds. The faces are joined by oval connectors sufficiently long to fit through a thick cuff. The backs are stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" x 7/16”
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Weight: 14.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat

An elegant pair of Imperial Russian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, each of the round faces set with with a pair of cushion-cut blue sapphires and a pair of cabochon rubies. The stones are good quality, with intensely saturated color. Chains connect the fronts to torpedo backs. Each cufflink is stamped with the Russian marks for 14K (56 zolotniks) and for the assay-master Alexander Romanov, (St. Petersburg).

Origin: Russia, 1904-08. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .45 ct; ruby, .56 ct.

This fabulous snarling tiger is glowing with lifelike translucent enamels in multiple shades of gold, orange, brown and black. The nostrils and tongue are accented with deep red enamel. Each eye is set with an old European cut diamond and the fangs grasp a third diamond. The stones are good quality, graded at I color, SI1 clarity. The pendant is deeply three-dimensional with superb detailing. The back is also stamped with Alling & Co.’s mark. Alling was manufacturer for leading retailers such as Tiffany & Co., Bailey, Banks Biddle and C.D. Peacock.

The back is ornately engraved “EBP From the Armour Boys/Sioux City, IA/June 1907.” Our research suggests that the “Armour Boys” were the owners of the meatpacking company Armour, and that “EBP” was Elizabeth Ann Brasker Plankinton, daughter of their partner in the company. One of Armour’s largest factories opened in Sioux City in 1907.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain that is available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, 1907.
• Condition: excellent condition.
• Dimensions: 1 3/32” wide x 1 1/8” tall (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 11.5 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat.

An extraordinarily fine pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces in the form of navette-shaped buttons carved from crystal opal. The faces are accented with silver “stitches”, each accented with a five small rose cut diamonds. The opals have clear body color and the play-of-color is predominantly shades of green and blue with occasional flecks of orangy-red. The faces are connected by gold chains to gold torpedo backs. The use of carved opal as a button motif is most unusual, as is the use of crystal open rather than the more common white opal. The overall effect is subtle and very sophisticated. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 4.8 gr.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold stickpin featuring an reverse-carved Essex crystal head depicting the blue and white striped burgee of the Larchmont Yacht Club. The crystal is well-carved, with bright coloring and no signs of water damage or separation. The crystal is finished with a mother-of-pearl background. The Larchmont Yacht Club dates from 1880 and remains one of America’s most exclusive yachting clubs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 1/2" diameter; overall length, 2-21/32”. Weight: 2.0 grams.

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant and brooch worked in 10K yellow gold. The back retains the original findings including a watch hook. Marked with Larter’s hallmark and “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7/8” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams

A very fine pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces featuring almandite garnets. The faces are decorated with a foliate border. The gold surface has the semi-matte Russian finish sometimes found on better jewels of the period. The beanback connectors are marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 5.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

A delightful pair of Art Nouveau daisy stud earrings, the petals formed from Mississippi River pearls arranged around a textured gold disc representing the flower's seed head. The freshwater pearls have attractive luster that contrasts nicely with the brightness of the gold. Tested and guaranteed 14K. These earrings would look particularly nice worn with a very similar pearl daisy pendant (Item #1402839) in our collection.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: exellent; converted from the original screwbacks
• Dimensions: 1/2" diameter
• Weight: 2.2 grams

A particularly nice Art Nouveau four-leaf clover honeymoon watch pin, the leaves beautifully enameled in shades of translucent green, yellow and rust. The 14K yellow gold crescent moon is set with a graduated row of pearls, while an old European cut diamond centers the clover. The back retains the original clasp and watch hook. In Victorian flower language, the clover symbolized "good luck." When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was "honeymoon," and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family. Since the meaning here is "good luck on your honeymoon," we'd have to assume that this particular pin was a gift from the bride's mother rather than from her groom. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1" x 1"
• Weight: 3.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 ct

A delightful late Victorian or Edwardian pendant in the form of a poodle jumping through a hoop. The wonderfully detailed poodle is cast in sterling silver and the hoop is 14K gold. The dog is fully three-dimensional, and the eyes are set with small pyrope garnets. The pendant is marked “14K Sterling.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 3/8” x 1-1/4”
Weight: 11.2 grams

A gorgeous enameled pansy, worked in several shades of purple and lavender is featured in this ring converted from a Victorian earring. The enamel has a soft velvety appearance and is accented at the center with a small pearl. The pansy is set on a sturdy 14K gold split shank. Pansies are generally associated with remembrance, but in Victorian flower symbology, they also carried the sentiment, "Think of me." So whether you're in love or just feeling nostalgic, this ring is perfect!

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted; a miniscule fleabite to the enamel at the edge of one petal.
• Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 11/16".
• Finger Size: 7.
• Weight: 5.8 grams.

A lovely and very unusual late Victorian circle brooch in 14K yellow gold, enhanced with pearl- and emerald-set flowers and enameled leaves. Each flower is represented by a cluster of six seed pearls centering a small old mind cut emerald. The flowers are set between pairs of leaves delicately enameled in translucent shades of green and yellow. One side of the pin is decorated only with a line of pearls, a nice assymetrical touch. The back retains the original extended pinstem, c-clasp and watch hook. Marked “14”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a violet, each of the petals worked in soft shades of violet, rose, cream and green. The flower is centered with a 10-pt old European cut diamond. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet represented faithfulness. The back is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 7/8”.

A very attractive pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with oval cabochon amethysts. The stones are not foiled and have very good medium-violet color. The backs are stamped “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Larter & Sons.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 7/16”
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 15.96 carats
• Weight: 9.7 grams

A delightful Japanese silver and patinated steel short watch fob suspending a heart shaped locket decorated with gold and silver shakudo style inlay. One side of the locket is decorated with a beautifully worked iris and foliage, while the other side has a pair of inlaid swallows. The interior is engraved, either with the maker’s name or with an affectionate inscription. This is a most unusual adaptation of the Western imagery of the heart as a love token with the late 19th century Japanese aesthetic.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, patination intact. Size: overall, 5-5/8” long; heart, 11/16” x 21/32”. Weight: 17.5 grams.

An exceptionally fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin in the form of a pansy blossom highlighted with enamel. The enamel decoration is absolutely spectacular. Shades of translucent pink, chartreuse and maroon blend to create a very realistic, soft appearance. The flower is centered with an old European cut diamond of very fine quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The back retains the original pinstem, clasp and eyelet for a watch hanger. Though unsigned, the brooch was made by Whiteside & Blank, one of the finest Newark makers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 7.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .20 carat.

Edwardian 14K gold crescent moon pendant necklace set with round sapphires and pearls. The sapphires have a lovely medium blue color with just a hint of violet. The pearls are slightly button-shaped and have very pretty luster. In Victorian and early Edwardian jewelry, the crescent shape symbolized feminine power personified in the moon goddess Selene/Juno. Brides were often given a crescent pin to wear during their honeymoon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-7/8" wide; overall necklace length, 18"
• Condition: excellent; converted from a brooch
• Weight: 3.4 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .62 carat.

A heavy 14K gold curb link watch chain, finished with a movable t-bar, a dog clip, and a spring ring. The chain would be perfect to match up with one or more other heavy watch chains to create a unique layered look with multiple charms. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 12-3/4" long
• Weight: 37.9 grams

A very attractive pair of double-sided 14K yellow gold Victorian cufflinks, the faces set with oval garnet cabochons. Cufflinks of the kind are usually made with a simple bezel setting, but this pair has a double border of gold around the garnets, giving them a more substantial look. The garnets are very fine, with vivid red coloring. Each cufflink is marked "14K" and is signed wtih the maker's mark for Sansbury & Nellis.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16" x 7/16". Weight: 9.3 grams. Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 10.84 carats.

A very fine 14K gold stickpin in the form of a horse's head by Sloan & Co. They eye is set with a small ruby cabochon. The horse is entirely three-dimensional, worked with as much detail on the back as the front. The stick pin can easily be converted to a pendant or ring. The base of the neck is stamped with Sloan's 14K gold mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: head, 7/8" 5/8"; overall length, 2 15/16".
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A fantastic and rare pair of 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau cufflinks by Krementz, the double faces depicting Native American warriors. The facial and hair details are beautifully worked in a design that also includes a bow and a quiver of arrows. Krementz made at least two different designs depicting Native Americans, with this being the more ornate of the two. The backs are fully marked by Krementz.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: large faces, 3/4" x 17/32"; small faces, 1/2" x 3/8".
• Weight: 5.0 grams.

A nice pair of Edwardian double-sided cufflinks worked in platinum over 14K gold. The hexagonal faces are decorated with ornate engine-turned engraving and are set with French-cut blue sapphires with a strongly violet tint to the blue. The backs of the faces are marked "Plat on 14K" and the connectors bear a maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .21 cts.

French Art Nouveau 18K gold and sapphire cufflinks, the triangular faces pierced in a decoration of stylized flowers and set at the centers with cabochon blue sapphires. The gold surface has a very handsome matte finish that allows the sapphires to shine. The connectors are stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified maker's mark (SAS).

• France, ca 1895.
• Excellent condition; sharp detail.
• 5/8" x 5/8".
• 7.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.04 carat.

A classic pair of Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz worked primarily in 14K yellow gold. Each face is formed from a carved mother-of-pearl disc set in an engraved platinum border and centering a cabochon blue sapphire. The sapphires, though small, have good blue color that nicely accents the irisdescent surfaces of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K” and have Krementz’ hallmark. The platinum portions are tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 7.1 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .68 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a crescent moon decorated with blue and white enamel forget-me-nots surrounding an enameled pansy set with a .025-ct round brilliant diamond. The pansy is the more uncommon type where the petals have elegantly-chased decoration. In Victorian flower language, both the pansy and the forget-me-not symbolized “think of me.” When flowers and crescents were used together, the symbolism was “honeymoon,” and these were popular gifts given to new brides by either their grooms or close family.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damange
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 11/16”
• Weight: 2.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .025 carat

A beautiful dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, the round faces set with abalone disks encircled by platinum borders. The abalone has fine guilloche carving in a chrysanthemum pattern and the platinum borders are decorated with an engraved laurel wreath design. The abalone has very nice luster with overtones of rose and green. Abalone cufflinks are richer looking and much more uncommon than mother-of-pearl. The backs of each piece are stamped with the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: cufflinks, 14 mm (9/16 in) diameter; studs, 8 mm (5/16 in) diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

An elegant pair of Edwardian 14K gold and platinum double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are set with plaques of black mother of pearl within engraved platinum borders. The faces are centered by natural seed pearls. The mother of pearl has strong iridescence, primarily in rose shades, against the silvery gray body color. Black mother of pearl is much less common than the lighter colors and creates a striking effect. The bright-cut engraving of the platinum borders adds a touch of sparkle. The backs of the faces are signed “Tiffany & Co.” and are marked “14K” and “Plat & Gold”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” (15 mm) diameter. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A very nice late Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in a pierced scrolling design. The front features a row of three square cabochon rhodolite garnets set diagonally. The rhodolites have a lovely purplish hue that distinguishes them from their more common all reddish-brown garnet cousins. The bangle is fairly wide, but the piercing gives it an elegant lightness. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-1/4”
• Approximate Total Rhodolite Garnet Weight: 3.3 carats
• Weight: 23.8 grams

A lovely Art Nouveau enameled 14K gold wreath pin by Krementz. The leafy wreath, worked in shaded green enamels is studded with tiny gold berries, four seed pearls and four small old European cut diamonds. The sparkle of the diamonds against the colored enamel is very nice. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, marked with Krementz’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900.

Size: 7/8” diameter.

Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .06 carat.

A truly exceptional example of American Art Nouveau enameled gold jewelry, this pendant features a deeply three-dimensional waterlily enameled in translucent lavender. The blossom is surrounded by bright green leaves and another bud about to open. A pair of baroque freshwater pearls flank the blossom, and the whole is presented against a gold frame incorporating whiplash curves and suspending a freshwater dogtooth pearl. The pearls are of exceptional quality, with bright orient in rainbow colors. The pendant is suspended from a leaf-shape plaque. The depth of the design is amazing. The pendant can be removed from the chain and originally had a removable pinstem mechanism so it could be worn as a brooch. The mechanism is now missing, but could easily be recreated by a competent goldsmith. All in all, this is one of the very best Art Nouveau enameled pendants we’ve owned. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America (probably Newark), ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: length of pendant from the top of the leaf element to the bottom of the dogtooth pearl, 2”; width of pendant element, 1-3/16”; chain length, 18”. Weight: 8.2 gr.

A fine 14K yellow gold griffin stickpin by Riker. The eye is set with a bright faceted ruby and the claw grasps an old European cut diamond. As with all Riker pieces, the gemstones are of excellent quality. This stick pin could be worn as is, or converted to a ring or necklace charm. The reverse is stamped with Riker's hallmark.

• America, circa 1880
• Head, 5/8" x 1/2"; overall length, 2-1/2"
• 1.8 grams
• Approximate diamond weight: .05 carat

A handsome pair of 14K gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with round cabochon almandite garnets. The stones are not foiled, and have an usually bright color without the typical brownish or orangey overtones usually seen in almandite. The connectors are stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 7/16” diameter
• Approximate Total Garnet Weight: 15.16 carats
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.