Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

An attractive pair of late Victorian sterling silver cufflinks decorated with Classical medallion in the Shiebler style. The medallions depict a Greco-Roman youth and maiden. The edges are irregularly beveled to suggest antiquity. The faces are connected to baton-style backs decorated a simple foliate pattern. The connectors are marked “Sterling.”

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

A lovely pair of classic Victorian earrings in the Etruscal Revival style featuring free-hanging drops of rich violetish-blue drops of lapis lazuli. The 15K yellow gold mountings are enhanced with twisted wire and bead decoration. The lapis is of the finest Afghan quality, with even color and only one tiny fleck of pyrite. The wires are marked "15 Ct".

Origin: England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: length from top of wire, 1-3/4".

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K gold pendant and watch pin depicting the Greek goddess Pallas Athena. The design is worked in the medallist style more typical of French Art Nouveau jewelry, but this piece is American. The workmanship is first rate. Athena was the goddess of wisdom, horses and olives, and was the patroness of Athens. Here she is shown wearing her helmet, but it is adorned with wings instead of the usual dragon. Her identity is confirmed, however, with the sprigs of olive leaves and fruit tucked into her helmet. The edges of the pendant are set with small natural pearls. The back is stamped "14K" and retains the original folding bail, pinstem and watch hook.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K gold chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; sharp details; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 6.0 grams.

A fine green-toned cat's eye chrysoberyl cabochon surrounded by delicate scalloped border set with seed pearls centers this Victorian stickpin conversion ring. The stone displays excellent chatoyancy, with a clear milky white streak down the center of the stone that seems to "wink" as it is rocked from side to side. The surrounding pearls pick up the creamy color of the eye. The setting is 18K gold attached to a 14K shank.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: converted to a ring; no chips or scratches to stone.
• Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 5/16".
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.6 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.24 carat.

A stunning Belle Epoque brooch in the form of a fern worked in silver-topped 18K gold and set with 89 rose cut diamonds. The curving shape and the delicacy of each individual diamond-set leaf gives the piece a lightness that is very attractive for wear with today's clothing styles. The pin could also easily be converted to a pendant by attaching a gold chain at either end. In the 19th language of flowers, fern conveyed the sentiment of "sincerity." The back is stamped with French 18K marks.

France, circa 1870

Excellent condition

1-3/8" x 2-7/16"

9.9 grams

Approximate total diamond weight: 1.33 carats

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A beautiful Second Empire 18K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with an enamel portrait of a society lady in a brightly-colored formal dress. Her ornate hairdo is studded with an ostrich plume, blue forget-me-nots, lace and small rose-cut diamonds. Interestingly, she wears a locket in the portrait, as well as a gold bracelet and a shoulder brooch. The portrait is enclosed in a frame of opaque black enamel that accents the punch-work decoration around the image. The original bail is similarly decorated. The interior retains the original frames, glass covers and French blue silk linings. The back is simply engraved with a shield reserve (never monogrammed). Stamped with French hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: no enamel damage; three dings on the reverse.
• Dimensions: 1-1/4' x 2-1/8" (including bail).
• Weight: 20.3 grams.

A very pretty pair of Victorian earrings fashioned as lapis lazuli orbs suspended from 14K gold caps decorated with Etruscan beading and rope-twist motifs. The lapis has a beautiful deep violet-blue color of near-Afghan quality with just a small amount of white calcite. The ear wires appear to be original. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: spheres, 1/2" diameter; 1-1/4” long from top of earwires
• Weight: 9.8 grams

A handsome mid-Victorian Scottish agate pendant featuring pear-shaped cabochons of bloodstone ("heliotrope") and carnelian in a fine gold setting. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with fiolate engraving. Queen Victoria personally led the fashion for all things Scottish. Most jewels were set in silver; those set in gold were generally made in London using Scottish stones. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

Origin: Scotland/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, the piece was originally a brooch and the pinstem and clasp were removed and a bail added for wear as a pendant. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

A nice late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternating links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a bamboo-shaped t-bar. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 875 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 17-1/2”
• Weight: 21.0 grams

Attractive Victorian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks. Each face is in a figure-eight shape enclosed in an outer oval border. Collet-set Persian turquoise cabochons center each face. The faces are joined by chains. Indistinctly hallmarked. Tested and guaranteed at least 14K.

Circa 1870

Condition: excellent, all original

Dimensions: 5/8” x 7/16”

Weight: 9.5 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold floral pendant. The flowers are represented by small rose cut diamonds and a round brilliant ruby. The gold foliage is finely engraved in a naturalistic pattern. The brooch suspends a drop-shaped natural pearl with fine luster. The ruby, though small, has fine red color and excellent clarity. The pendant is suspended from its bale with a double chain. Fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-9/32” wide; 1-3/8” long (not including chain); 2-1/4” long (including chain). Weight: 4.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .16 ct; diamond, .10 ct.

An impressive and beautifully-crafted large Victorian locket, each face carved from a single piece of onyx. The front cover is adorned with a gold floral spray studded with small natural seed pearls of the best quality. Seed pearls often have a chalky appearance but these have lovely luster and iridescence. The interior of the locket retains its original frame glass, as well as woven hair. The hair, of course, could easily be replaced with a portrait. The locket is suspended from an elegant bail, enameled in black and set with pearls. The bail has a shepherd’s hook closure so it will fit onto even the thickest of chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; all original; no cracks or enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/8” (2-1/2” including bail). Weight: 34.2 gr.

A stunning Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring an enameled and engraved portrait of Pallas Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, horses and olives. Her beautifully engraved helmet is adorned with a small rose cut diamond. Her armor and the embroidery along the edges of her gown are also engraved. The quality of the painted enamel facial details and the background champleve enamel in royal blue is gorgeous. The edges of the medallion are enhanced with natural pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both stamped with French 18K marks. A folding bail could easily be added to the piece can be worn as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter.
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

A heavy pair of 14K gold cufflinks, the faces decorated with a sort of shield-shaped device against a stippled background. The influence of the Art Nouveau aesthetic can be seen in the assymetrical design of the shields. The semi-matte finish of the stippling contrasts nicely with the more polished shield. The backs marked "14K" and have Kirby's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16" x 1/2"
• Weight: 9.8 grams

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age and a small roughness of the edge of the crystal (not visible when inside the frame). Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.3 grams.

A wonderful Art Nouveau stickpin depicting a native American warrior chief in 14K yellow gold. The man’s beautifully detailed face is surrounded by long hair and a feather war bonnet, the band centered by a small bead-set old European cut diamond. A quiver of arrows is slung across the chest. The pin is marked “14K” and has the maker’s mark for Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp details. Size: head, 11/16” x 3/8”; overall length, 2-1/2”. Weight: 1.8 grams.