Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A fine Retro leaf brooch worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and sapphires. The curved leaf is lightened by the use of wire construction, a technique often seen in French jewelry of the period. The lower edge of the wire leaf is enhanced with antique cushion and old European cut diamonds, and the upper edge with a row of blue sapphires. Two larger old European diamonds are nestled among the solid leaves to one side. The three largest diamonds range from .55 to .30 carat. All are SI1 clarity I-J color. The sapphires have bright pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The design is versatile and the pin can be worn horizontally with the wire leaf to the left or vertically with the wire leaf at the bottom.

The use of such a range of antique diamond cuts in a piece of this era suggests that the pin was custom-made using diamonds (and possibly the gold) from one of the client's older jewels. This was a common practice during the shortages of World War II. The pinstem is stamped "14K."

• Origin: America, ca 1948
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-23/32" x 1-1/8"
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.66 carats; sapphire, .46 carat.
• Weight: 7.5 grams

A heavy Retro bracelet in 14K yellow gold set with amethysts by Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is designed as large arched links, each centered by rectangular step-cut amethyst. The stones have vivid violet coloring and excellent brilliance, without the color zoning that sometimes mars amethysts. The clasp is stamped Tiffany & Co. The bracelet is presented in its original leather and silk box.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32†wide; 7†long. Weight: 53.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 24.3 cts.

A particularly fine gentleman’s ring in 14K yellow gold, the top set with alternating round cut rubies and brilliant round cut diamonds in star settings. Gypsy-set rings were first popular in the Victorian era, but reappeared in the 1930s and 40s, sometimes with the addition of star settings. The rubies are natural, without evidence of treatment, and are color-graded as medium dark slightly brownish strongly purplish-red (stpR 6/2) and clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are H/VS1. The ring has substantial weight and is comfortable to wear. The inside of the shank is marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/16” wide. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .60 ct; ruby, .70 ct.

A very good Retro tank ring worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum set with diamonds and natural sapphires (natural sapphires in a Retro ring are rather unusual). The larger diamonds (.40 ct, .25 ct, and .25 ct) are all old European cuts. The smaller stones are single cuts. The ring is broad across the finger and is laid out in a very geometric style typical of tank jewelry. The diamonds I color and VS2 clarity. The sapphires show no indication of heat treatment. It is very uncommon to have natural colored stones in a piece or Retro jewelry. The back of the shank is stamped with French import marks for 14K gold and platinum.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: crown, 7/8” x 5/8”; shank tapers to 7/32” at the back
• Weight: 11.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 carats; sapphire, .44 carat.

A wonderful, generously-sized Retro period 14K yellow gold charm or pendant depicting a spaniel. The dog is finely detailed and is offset with sparkling blue sapphire eyes. Ruser, the foremost Beverly Hills jeweler of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. His famous line of poodle jewels were inspired by Crawford's poodles. Other breeds of dogs are exceedingly rare. The back is marked "14K" and is signed "Ruser."

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" wide; 1-3/4" long (excluding bail); 1/2" deep
• Weight: 19.9 grams

Art Deco 18K gold and sapphire stirrup cufflinks in the style first popularized by Cartier. The heavy mesh sides are accented with two blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons on each cufflink. Each is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• France, ca. 1950
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions:13/16" x 1-3/32"
• Weight: 16.9 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 carat

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

A 14K white gold ring set with a .77-carat round brilliant-cut diamond (I color, SI2 clarity, VG cut) surrounded by a horseshoe motif set with .25 carats of rose cut diamonds over a pierced gallery. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: featured stone, .77 ct; mine cuts, .25 ct.

A delightful Retro period 14K gold charm or pendant depicting "Thursday's Child" by William Ruser. The charm is finely detailed. According to the poem, Thursday's Child has "far to go" so Ruser depicted the naked child walking along a natural freshwater pearl carrying a traveling sack of belongings. The use of freshwater pearl is a classic Ruser touch. The child's eyes are set with blue sapphires. The back is signed and is marked "14K."

Ruser, the formost Beverly Hills jewelry of his time, was a favorite of Loretta Young and Joan Crawford. He is best know for his depictions of dogs (particularly poodles) and waif-like children in various poses.

• Origin: America, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-5/16" x 1-5/8" (excluding bail)
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A lovely pair of vintage 14K yellow gold earrings by Tiffany & Co. Each earring is designed as a gold ribbon surrounding a stylized floral spray set with natural brilliant round cut rubies and brilliant oval cut aquamarines. The color combination is a classic Retro combination. The stones are very nice quality, as would be expected of Tiffany. The earrings retain their original screw backs, but posts or clips could be added. The backs are marked “Tiffany & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 3/4”. Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: aquamarine, 1.22 cts; ruby, .6 ct.

A rare pair of World War II era 14K yellow gold double-sided figural cufflinks, the faces in the form of airplane propellers. The front faces have three blades, while the back faces have two. Cufflinks with an airplane theme would have been considered a patriotic statement in gentleman’s jewelry at the time. The connectors are marked “14K” and have the hallmark for Richardson Manufacturing Company, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 3/4" diameter. Weight: 4.7 grams.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching tie bar.

A fine Art Deco sterling silver pendant necklace by famed illustrator and jewelry designer McClelland Barclay. The square pendant shows a water lily and lily pad along with several buds in a stylized form. The pendant is suspended from its original silver chain. The reverse is marked "Sterling Silver" and is signed "McClelland Barclay".

Barclay was a noted illustrator, famous for his pin-up style advertisements for General Motors and for Hollywood movies. At the onset of World War II, he volunteered to join the Navy and painted many of the most important recruiting and propaganda images. In 1942, he started designing silver jewelry. He was stationed on ships in the South Pacific and sent his designs via mail to the manufacturing company, Rice-Weiner. He was killed when his ship was torpedoed in 1943.

Origin: America, 1942-43. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: pendant, 2" x 2-1/4"; chain length, 24-1/2". Weight: 35.5 gr.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the "etrier" style originally popularized by Cartier. The design was meant to suggest a horsebit. When worn, only the circles are visible. The circles are finished with a twisted rope design. Most cufflinks of this style were made by French jewelers, and it is unusual to find an American pair in 14K gold. Stamped with an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A fine and very early pair of silver cufflinks in the “Maya” pattern by Margot de Taxco. Margot established her own studio in 1948. The “Maya” pattern, displaying a strongly-featured native Mexican man in profile, became one of her iconic designs. The cufflinks are generously sized and retain a nice patina. The backs of the faces are stamped with marks used before the introduction of the eagle system in 1948, so the cufflinks can be dated to a very early date for Margot.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1948. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Size: 1” x 3/4”. Weight: 13.6 grams.

A very nice pair of Retro 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) popularized by Cartier. During the war years, even the most exclusive European jewelers frequently used synthetic rubies and sapphires because natural material simply wasn’t available. The square cut stones are channel set along the sides of the cufflinks, and a single stone is collet-set at either end of the closing mechanism. When being worn, the band of rubies goes fully around the outsides of the shirt cuff. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/16” x 11/16”. Weight: 10.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.52 cts.

An outstanding 18K gold pendant set with an amazing enameled alpine scene by Carlo Poluzzi (1899-1978), the greatest Swiss enamellist of the the 20th century. Poluzzi sometimes used the very difficult technique of applying translucent enamel over an engraved gold plate to produce brilliant sunrise or set effects as seen in the left side of the sky in this example. This required multiple coats of different colored enamels which increased the likelihood of unwanted cracks during the multiple firings. Poluzzi was perhaps the only enamellist capable of this technique in the 20th century, and indeed, the scene is signed at the lower left. Of course, this example is also signed at the lower left. In the 1920s, Poluzzi (still in his low 20s) became the master of Emaux de Genève, the provider of the highest quality enameled dials and cases for luxury horlogers such as Vacheron & Constantin, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Gubelin. This plaque is set as a pendant by the Gubelin. The Holbein-style setting features square cut rubies and emeralds amid swirling gold foliage. The gemstones are of very fine quality with intense, saturated coloring and excellent clarity. The reverse is stamped with Gubelin’s hallmark and the Swiss gold mark for 18K.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1945
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-5/8” x 1-7/16”
• Weight: 26.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .8 carat; emerald, .47 carat

A terrific pair of Retro 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces set with large round cabochons of amethyst. The stones have very good, deep purple coloring. The faces are joined by hinged connectors to rectangular backs enhanced with stippling and rose gold banding. The connectors are marked “585” for 14K. The style of connector suggests that the cufflinks are Scandinavian in origin.

Ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/4” diameter. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 9.7 carats.

A lovely 18K yellow gold, diamond and ruby love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday less than tomorrow”), a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano de Bergerac”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign set with rose cut diamond and the word “moins” is symbolized by a minus sign set with rectangular synthetic rubies.

In 1907, the Lyonnais jeweler Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example, signed by Augis, is the classic version with the crepe de chine textured background enclosed in a plain border. The use of a rose cut diamond and the Augis signature indicates that this is an earlier example. The size is perfect as a pendant on a delicate chain or as a charm on a bracelet. Fully marked with 18K gold marks, and Augis’ maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/8” (from top of bail). Weight: 1.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .01 ct; ruby, .04 ct.