Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

An extremely rare pair of French 18K gold cufflinks set with reverse intaglio carved crystals ("Essex crystals") depicting a pair of colorful rabbits or hares. The faces are connected by chains to backs in the form of double-barreled shotguns. The guns' stocks are worked in yellow gold, while the barrels, triggers and trigger guards are worked in white gold. The crystals are finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The cufflinks are stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with the maker's mark of an unidentified jeweler. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially those incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are most unusual.

NOTE: We are offering a matching lapel brooch as Item #1258400.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: crystals, 5/8" diameter; shotguns, 1-1/16" long. Weight: 8.9 grams.

An unusually fine and large 14K yellow gold sunburst brooch set with 105 natural seed pearls surrounded a .33 carat old European cut diamond (graded I, VS2). The pearls have very fine color and lustre. The piece retains its original folding pendant bail and pinstem, so it can be worn as a pendant or brooch. Sun-themed jewels were meant to symbolize “life-giving force” or “divine light,” and were often set with white stones such as pearls or diamonds to suggest “purity.” Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.6 grams

An elegant pair of Edwardian sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with purple guilloche enamel accented with a border of opaque white enamel. The backs are stamped "Sterling."

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 23/32" x 7/16" (18 x 11 mm)
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A fascinating pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with square rock crystals. The crystals have concave circles in the center and the edges are finished with an oxidized surface that gives the impression of hematite. The clear circles reveal quirky, almost cartoon-like portraits of dogs that have very rigid demeanors like those often seen in 19th century portraits of people. These are not to be confused with reverse-carved Essex crystals. These cufflinks are made in an entirely different way and we’ve never seen a pair like them. The square faces are linked with chains to gold baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one dog is turned slightly sideways, but it appears to have always been that way. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.9 grams.

Very fine pair of late Art Noveau 18K gold double-sided cufflinks. The faces show a beautifully designed young woman's face stylized wisps of hair cascading around a porthole-like frame. The design is really superb. The connectors open so the cufflinks are easy to put on. The backs are marked with French 18K import marks. The rather severely stylized design suggests that they are of Belgian or German (possibly Austrian) origin.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 9.0 grams.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A very attractive pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold, the oval faces decorated in an ornate engine-turned design that looks a bit like a Maltese cross. The interplay of the engraved and polished surfaces are particularly nice. The backs are marked “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Wordley, Alsopp & Bliss.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.7 grams

A wonderfully naughty Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold ring depicting a couple engaged in mutual oral stimulation. Victorian and Edwardian erotic jewelry is extremely rare, having been made only for the daring few who were willing to wear such things in public. Like other pieces of erotica, the designer was charged with making the object look as innocent as possible, only revealing its true nature upon very careful and prolonged inspection. Upon first examination, this ring appears to be a typical sinuous floral Art Nouveau design. Looking closely however, the design reveals a man and woman amorously entwined. Even the back of the shank is decorated with a pair of somewhat cleverly concealed penises. The ring is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very little wear. Size: 1/2" wide. Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 7.5 grams.

An outstanding pair of heavy French Art Deco 18K yellow and white gold cufflinks set with cabochon garnets. Each of the faces comprises a set of three gold discs—two yellow and one white—stacked and offset to one side. The upper discs are pierced by a bright cabochon garnet. The design has a severe, almost industrial modernist, look that was surely very unusual in its time. The backs are stamped with French 18K marks and the master goldsmith’s mark for Paul Marteau. Marteau established his Parisian workshop in 1919, but closed it the following year. Based on the design aesthetic and quality of workmanship in these cufflinks, he was quite accomplished. Unfortunately, there is no additional information available about him. The connectors open for ease in putting the cufflinks through the cuff.

Origin: France, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8†diameter. Weight: 17.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 2.08 cts.

An extremely rare French 18K gold stick pin, the head set with reverse-carved Essex crystal depicting the historic first airplane crossing of the English Channel by Louis Bleriot in 1909. Transportation-themed Essex crystal jewelry is very rare, but those clearly linked to a specific vehicle or event are truly exceptional. The colors of the painting are vibrant and there is no sign of moisture damage. The pinstem is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1909. Condition: excellent. Size: head, 11/16” diameter; overall length, 3”. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

A handsome pair of Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl plaques, each centering a bezel-set pink sapphire cabochon. The color contrast is quite attractive. The connectors are removable for ease in putting on the cufflinks. The cufflinks have nice weight and are comfortable to wear. Each is marked “18K” and also bears French import marks.

• Origin: possibly England or America, ca. 1910.
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.12 carat.
• Weight: 8.7 grams.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no dings or chips.

A handsome, classic pair of Edwardian cufflinks by Larter. Worked in 14K yellow gold, the double-sided cufflinks feature faces of carved mother of pearl centered with cabochon sapphires. The mother of pearl shows nice play of color with rose and green overtones that nicely accent the blue sapphires. The connectors are stamped with Larter’s 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 17/32” diameter
• Weight: 5.7 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.32 carat

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

A sophisticated Edwardian ring featuring a rectangular cabochon of moss agate nestled in a 14K yellow gold filigree mounting. The quality of the piercing is superb. The moss agate is nicely transparent with intense deep green wisps that seem to float in the stone. Moss agate is a rather unusual gemstone selection for this style of setting, but the stone seems to have been a favorite of the designers at Larter, as we have seen several fine examples of its use in unexpected ways. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K" and has Larter's hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Dimensions: 17/32" wide at crown, tapering to 1/16" at back of shank
• Finger Size: 6-1/4
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Weight: 3.9 grams.

A beautifully detailed 18K gold tombstone-shaped pendant dedicated to St. George. The front shows George on horseback killing the dragon with his spear. The sun is depicted in the background with a glowing red ruby cabochon. The reverse depicts a fishing boat carrying Jesus and several disciples across the stormy Sea of Galilee, with the Latin motto “In Tempestate Securitas” (“safety in the storm”). St. George medallions do not always include the ship imagery, but when it’s there, the piece was intended to protect against the perils at sea. Generally, St. George is the patron saint of knights, soldiers, scouts, fencers, and archers, but he apparently also had a knack with the plague, leprosy, and venomous snakes.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-1/16” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 14.4 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .05 carat.

An attractive pair of simple Art Deco double-sided cufflinks, each face formed from a round cabochon amber simply set in a 14K yellow gold collet. The amber has superb clarity and appears to be foiled underneath to enrich the color to a strong yellowish-orange and to create a stronger reflection. The result would look good with a blue suit, but even better with khaki or brown. The backs are signed for Sansbury & Nellis and are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: 1/2” diameter. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A spectacular 14K gold horsehoe brooch updated as an elegant pendant necklace. The sapphires are very fine quality with bright violet-blue color ad eye-clean clarity. There is no evidence of heat treatment. The sapphires alternate with pearls of similarly fine quality. Tested and guaranteed 14K. When turned points up, horseshoes collect and capture good luck!

• Origin: America, ca 1920
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-5/8" x 1-7/16"; length, 21-1/4"
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.31 carats
• Weight: 9.4 grams.

A very fine pair of late Edwardian/Deco transitional cufflinks, the 14K yellow gold faces set with scissor-cut citrines, amethyst and green tourmaline. Each of the stones fits into a gallery beautifully engraved in a scrolled motif. Most unusually, instead of traditional prongs, the stones are held in place by lozenge-shaped plaques of platinum, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The stones have very attractive color and excellent clarity. The connectors are removable. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: citrine, 6.36 cts; amethyst, 3.17 cts; tourmaline, 3.68 cts; diamond, .08 ct.

A rare 18K yellow gold love token medallion by the Lyonnais jeweler best known for his “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” médailles d’amour. This medal, depicts a crowing rooster standing on land gazing out over the sea toward the rising sun while diamond-set stars are still in the sky. The text “Ni vous sans moi, ni moi sans vous” means “Neither you without me, nor me without you” and is taken from a telling of the legend of Tristan and Iseulde by the 12th century lyric poet Marie de France written while she was at the English court of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine.

Augis created this design at the outbreak of World War I in 1914. The rooster is a traditional symbol of the French republic, so the medal held a double meaning of patriotism (in the sense of “Neither France without you, nor you without France”) and inseparable love as soldiers went to war. Certainly, one can imagine a young soldier presenting this medal to his wife or girlfriend.

The pendant is signed “A Augis” and is stamped with his master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1914. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, never monogrammed. Dimensions: 13/16” diameter (excluding bail). Diamond Weight: 025 ct. Weight: 6.2 gr.

A very good Art Nouveau man's wedding ring worked in 14K yellow gold. The front of the shank is hand-chased in an ornate scrolling pattern that cradles three old European cut diamonds in bezel settings. The design is elegant, yet not too feminine. The diamonds are very good quality, graded in the setting as G/H color and VS1 clarity. The inside of the shank is engraved "Feb 1st 1918" and is marked for 14K gold.

Origin: America, 1918. Condition: excellent, minor wear at the back of the shank. Finger Size 9. Dimensions: 1/4" wide in the front, tapering to 3/32" at the back. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

Phenomenally impressive late Edwardian bar pin featuring 54 diamonds set in 18K white gold. The diamonds are cut in rose-cut (smallest stones) and old-European and brilliant cuts (larger stones). The color and clarity is outstanding. The larger stones are estimated at VVS1 clarity and G color. The larger stones are .45, .38, and .38 carats. The medium-sized stones are all between .11 and .18 carats. The total weight is 2.16 carats. The setting is quite simple, pointing toward Art Deco design. The brooch retains its original pinstem trombone catch. The back is marked "750" and has a unidentified jeweler's mark "M".

Origin: Europe, circa 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 4" long, 3/8" wide. Weight: 11.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.16 carats.

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

A stunning 18K yellow gold locket by Auguste Peyroula in the shape of a heart decorated with rich blue guilloché enamel enclosed in a foliate-engraved gold border. The front cover is enhanced with a pair of gold cornucopias overflowing with roses and tied with a silver ribbon studded with 16 small rose-cut diamonds. The locket is completed with a bail decorated with floral engraving. The interior of the locket retains its original lining. Both sides of the locket are stamped with Peyroula's hallmark. From 1904 until 1937, Peyroula specialized in small enameled luxury goods such as compacts, cigarette cases, lipstick cases, etc. Most were designed in cooperation with and retailed by the leading French jewelry houses of the day, including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks, light surface wear to the enamel on the back face. Dimensions: 7/8" x 1-1/4". Weight: 11.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 ct.

A handsome pair of heavy Edwardian double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The ornately-shaped yellow gold faces are edged with beaded and stepped platinum borders and feature black enamel tracery around round old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright color (estimated at I) and SI1 clarity. The faces are joined by solid connectors marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .40 carat.

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A beautifully-detailed semi-nude woman peeks out from the center of a pink enameled flower in this Art Nouveau pendant and brooch. Her hair is adorned with a diamond-centered white enameled flower and she wears a diamond necklace. The background flower petal are worked in translucent iridescent enamels in shades of pink fading to cream at the edges. The back of the pendant retains the original folding bail, pinstem and clasp. The back is stamped 14K and has an unidentified maker's mark "7VI".

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain, available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent; no enamel damage except perhaps a small nick to one of the white flower petals visible only under magnification
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter
• Weight: 5.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the hexagonal faces fitted with round mother-of-pearl plaques centering gold lozenges set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires, though small, have attractive color that accents the iridescence of the surrounding mother-of-pearl. The faces are joined by solid bar connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8 in. diameter. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .10 carat.

A very attractive pair of double-sided cufflinks fashioned as oval mother-of-pearl discs centered with small seed pearls and enclosed in an opaque white enamel border, all set in yellow gold. White cufflinks such as these would originally have been worn only with white tie, but today they are particularly elegant with shirts in darker colored fabrics. The connectors are marked “14K” and have the maker’s mark for Larter & Sons.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1/2" x 3/4"
• Weight: 10.9 grams

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

A nice pair of late Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, each face centering an oval blue sapphire cabochon surrounded by engine-turned engracing. The sapphires have deep blue coloring. The back of one cufflink is engraved "Linked with fondest memories" and the other completes the inscription with "To J.M. from R.M. 1919." The connectors are stamped "14K" and have the maker's mark for Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss.

• America, ca. 1919
• Excellent, original condition
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1/2"
• Weight: 8.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.28 carats

Lovely Edwardian brooch featuring beautifully-crafted floral swirls and filigree of yellow gold surrounding a carved oval plaque of chrysoprase centered with a collet-set white sapphire. The pinstem is marked with partially illegible marks. The maker's mark "WW" (or "MM") is clearly stamped. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Continental, circa 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16" x 13/16". Weight: 4.0 grams.

Lovely Victorian 18K yellow gold cufflinks featuring small seed pearls set in a diamond-shaped mounting. The faces are connected to the torpedo backs with beautifully crafted chains. The faces are marked “18CT” and the chains have an additional hallmark that is illegible.

Origin: probably England, circa 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 3/8” x ½”. Weight: 5.25 grams.

A beautiful, delicate Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet in 14K yellow and white gold, set with blue sapphires and pearls. The traditional double knife-edge frame is decorated on the front side with a foliate-design plaque worked in white gold. The plaque is set with an alternating row of blue sapphires and 2.95mm pearls. The sapphires are a lovely bright cornflower blue with a hint of violet (graded as vB5/4) and show no indications of heat or other treatment. They are typical of stones from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). The pearls, though small, are fine quality with ivory body color and rose overtones. The overall effect is very elegant. The clasp is stamped with a variation of the hallmark used by A. J. Hedges & Co., a leading American jeweler of the period.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/16” wide; 6-7/8” interior circumference. Weight: 11.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .73 ct.

A very fine pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks, the double faces set with mother-of-pearl plaques centered with cabochon emeralds. The faces faces are bordered with platinum rims engraved in a reeded design. The emeralds are very nice quality, with vivid pure green color and good clarity that contrasts nicely with the iridescence of the mother-of-pearl. The use of emeralds in cufflinks is relatively uncommon. The connectors are stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 7.3 grams. Approximate Total Emerald Weight: .80 carat.

A nice Edwardian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on each of the ornate links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a large niello bolt.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 10”
• Weight: 23.8 grams

An elegant Edwardian bracelet comprising rectangular filigree plaques of 14K gold centering collet-set oval amethysts. The filigree is amazingly detailed. The amethysts have rich, saturated color and no zoning. The tongue of the clasp is stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-5/16” long, 1/2" wide
• Weight: 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 16.02 carats

A pair of silver egg-shaped earrings decorated with ornate floral guilloche engraving below translucent golden enamel. The enamel gives the appearance that the eggs are constructed entirely of gold. The ridge around the center of each egg was left unenameled for color contrast. The upper half of each egg is set with an old European cut diamond. The 14K gold wires are possibly original, but more likely replacements. The bail of each egg is stamped with illegible hallmarks. Purchased in Paris.

• Origin: Russia, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1/2” wide; 3/4" long (excluding wires)
• Weight: 7.8 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

A lovely French garland-style pendant/brooch in platinum and set with diamonds. The garland style, popularized by Cartier, heavily borrowed Louis XVI motifs such as bows, ribbons and laurel wreaths—all seen in this example. When worked in platinum, the designs take on a delicate appearance and allow the diamonds to shine. The center old European cut diamond, graded as J/SI1, weighs .48 carat. The diamond hanging from an articulated millegrained knife-edge mounting has the same grading and weighs .35 carat. The smaller diamonds are a mix of antique cushion, rose and Swiss cuts. This piece has two small loops at the top of the back so it can be worn from a fine platinum chain. When worn as a pendant, the 18K gold brooch fitting can be unscrewed and removed entirely. Convertible fittings such as this were difficult to make and always signaled a piece of high quality. The hallmarks allow the pendant/brooch to be definitively dated prior to 1912.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-11/16” x 1-9/16”. Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.15 carats.

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with an old mine cut diamond. The pearls have very attractive lustre and the diamond has nice color and clarity (J/VS2). The back retains the original pendant hook and pinstem/clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

NOTE: The pendant is shown with an optional 16" 14K chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 4.9 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat.

A set of three 14K white gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl shirt studs by Larter. The round faces are set with concave mother-of-pearl discs, each centering a round diamond and surrounded by an ornate beaded border with additional diamonds. The backs are hallmarked by Krementz.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9 mm (11/32 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .16 ct. Weight: 4.1 gr.

NOTE: We also have a pair of cufflinks by Carrington (Item #1233390) that, although not a perfect match to these studs, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set. See the last photo for more information.

Three glowing opals punctuate each this pair of Art Nouveau 14K gold dress clips. Triangular in shape, the clips are entirely hand-pierced and chased in a swirling foliate pattern. The leaves extend beyond the triangular borders to create a slightly assymetrical shape. The opals are much more attractive in person than in the photos, and have fine play of green, blue, orange and red color, evenly spread over the gemstones. Clips of this sort would have originally been worn on either side of a neckline, on a fur, or attached to shoes. They can still be worn those ways, of course, but they're terribly versatile and could be worn on jacket or coat lapels, clipped onto a grosgrain or velvet ribbon and worn as a choker, and dangling from a chain. The clips have a a jeweler's inventory number, but no maker's mark. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• America, ca. 1915.
• Excellent condition; all original.
• 1 1/4" x 1 1/4".
• 21.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Opal Weight: 2.22 carats.

A spectacular example of Austro-Hungarian Renaissance Revival jewelry from the period 1876-1918, this necklace features a central pendant drop in the form of a leaping stag suspended by pearl-enhanced chains from a neckchain of sapphire- and ruby-set plaques. The necklace is enameled throughout in shades of opaque white and black, and translucent green, red and purple. The stag is decorated with realistic shaded brown and gold enamels. The stag is set with a sapphire- and ruby-encrusted saddle. The neckchain has alternating wing-shaped plaques set with rubies and decorated green and white enamels, and buckle-shaped plaques set with oval sapphires enhanced with red and white enamels. The backs of the pendant and chain are also enameled. Exposed areas of silver are lightly engraved.

• Origin: Austria-Hungary (likely Vienna), ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; all original; only the faintest of wear to enamels on the high points of the stag (visible under magnification).
• Dimensions: necklace length, 15-1/2"; pendant, 1-1/2" wide x 2-1/2" long (including the pearl chains).
• Weight: 29.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 3.03 carats; ruby, 1.58 carats.

Edwardian enameled 14K gold “bean-back” cufflinks. The faces are decorated with elegant engine-turned engraving and a wide border of opaque white enamel. The shanks are marked for gold content, and also for the maker, Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss Co. (1909-15) of Newark, NJ.

Origin: America, 1909-15. Condition: faces are excellent with no damage to enamel; the “bean” backs have the usual light dings from normal wear and one shank is slightly bent (does not affect wearability, stability or appearance). Size: 13/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A set of three classic 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl shirt studs by Larter. The mother of pearl has particularly nice iridescent coloring. The simple design allows them to be worn with a variety of cufflinks, as well. Each stud is marked 14K and has the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 5.7 grams.

Converted from an antique Art Nouveau stickpin, this lovely ring features a round brilliant cut blue sapphire flanked by curving gold borders that form a faintly heart-shaped. The design is accented at the top and bottom with tiny seed pearls. The sapphire has a pretty cornflower blue color and excellent clarity. Both the crown and the band are 14K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions, crown, 7/16 x 7/16”.
• Finger Size: 6 1/4.
• Weight: 1.7 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .38 carat.

A delightful Imperial Austrian silver brooch set with three reverse-carved Essex crystals by the Imperial jeweler Georg Adam Scheid. The domed pin is finely engraved in a basket-weave motif and is pierced by three Essex crystals, each depicting a lap dog, perhaps a Pekingese. The dogs are well carved and colored, with tiny blue bows under their chins. The crystals never had a mother-of-pearl backing like those produced in England and France. Except in France, Essex crystals were not widely used in Continental European jewelry. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp. The hinge is stamped with Imperial Austrian hallmarks for 800 silver and with Scheid’s hallmark. The brooch retains its patina, but could be polished if desired.

Origin: Austria, ca. 1880. Condition: all original, silver is excellent, some wear to the paint on the crystals. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 8.3 gr.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamonds around a bright red ruby. The gemstone crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 7/16" (11mm) diameter. Weight: 1.9 gr. Approximate Gesmtone Weight: ruby, .28 ct; diamond, .06 ct.

An unusually heavy pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces worked in an intricate engine-turned design. The faces are actually round, but the designed makes them appear octagonal. The backs are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: faces, 9/16” diameter
• Weight: 11.1 grams

A beautiful pair of French 18K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the round faces decorated with deep green guilloche enamel bordered in opaque white champleve enamel. The gold surfaces under the translucent enamel are decorated with engine-turned engraving in a pattern of concentric circles studded with small dots in a starburst or snowflake arrangement. The faces are joined with the original chain connectors. The backs are stamped with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, very slight surface wear to enamel visible under 10x magnification. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.0 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin/pendant formed as a pair of enameled flowers with foliage against an ornate asymmetrically scrolled pearl-set background. The flowers appear to be apple blossoms and are beautifully enameled in iridescent shades of yellow and rose. The smaller flower is centered with a small old European cut diamond. The other flower and the scrolled background is set with seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp as well as a folding bale to the piece can be worn as either a pin or a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; all origina; no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8 x 1-1/8 inches. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

An elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum. The gold oval reserves are enhanced with engine-turned engraving in a striped pattern and are surrounded by engraved platinum borders. The backs are marked “14K-Plat” and have the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1910

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 11/16”

Weight: 8.8 grams

A wonderful and very rare 18K gold brooch set with a reverse intaglio carved crystal ("Essex crystals") depicting a rabbit or hare made for Hermès by their manufacturing jeweler Raymond Drouet. The crystal is set in a frame in the form of a double-barrel shotgun in the break position. The gun's stock is worked in yellow gold, but the barrels, trigger and trigger guard are worked in white gold. The crystal is finely carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The back of the pin retains the original double clip pinstem and is fully hallmarked with French gold marks and the master's mark for Raymond Drouet. Drouet executed designs for both Hermès and Réné Boivin during the 1920s and 30s. Carved crystals were very popular in England and the United States, but French examples, especially incorporating figural gold work such as the shotgun, are quite uncommon.

NOTE: We are offering a pair of matching cufflinks as Item #1258417.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 9.2 grams.

An elegant pair of late Edwardian drop earrings worked in 10K white gold. Each round drop is set with a coral bead at the center and the gold is studded with tiny rose cut diamonds. The surmounts are also set with diamonds. The brightness of the coral hints at the importance that color would take on as jewelry moved into the Art Deco period. Both the front and back of the earrings is enhanced with an intricate pierced design. The earrings hang freely and have a great deal of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” wide, 1-1/2” long from top of wire. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .32 ct.

A lovely large-size enameled 14K gold Art Nouveau flower pin/pendant. The petals are finely decorated with shaded enamels in tones of periwinkle, violet, cream and dark rose. The sculptural petals surround a round brilliant-cut diamond, graded as I/J, VVS2. The back of the pin retains the original clasp, pinstem and folding bail so it can be worn as a pendant. The back is marked “14K” and also has an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925 Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 14.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .25 ct.

A beautiful ring converted from an antique French stick pin. The ring features an 18K gold and platinum crown set with sparkling rose cut diamond in an openwork mounting. The diamond crown is attached to a 14K yellow gold band. The delicate style of this ring makes it perfect for wearing as a stacking ring or for a young lady's first gemstone ring.

Finger Size: 6-1/2 (can easily be sized). Dimensions: crown, 3/8" x 3/8" (9x9mm). Weight: 2.1 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .11 ct.

A very nice, heavy pair of classic double-sided cufflinks, each oval face set with old mine cut diamonds. The design is simple enough for the cufflinks to be worn during the day, but there's enough sparkle for evening wear, too. The diamonds are G-J color, VS1 to SI2 clarity. The cufflinks are fully hallmarked 18K, Birmingham and 1919. They also bear the marker's mark for B. H. Joseph & Co. (1865-1929).

Origin: Birmingham, England, 1919. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" x 11/16". Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .72 ct. Weight: 13.0 gr.

A lovely late Victorian 18K yellow gold locket, the cover enhanced with repousse decoration featuring a pair of race horse heads encircled by a wreath of roses. The wreath is tied at the back with a ribbon edged in milgrained platinum and studded with four small rosecut diamonds. The detailing of the design is very nice. The back of the locket has an ornate “SC” or “CS” monogram. The interior retains its original gold frames. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1-3/16” diameter. Weight: 10.8 grams.