Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

Handsome cufflinks with hexagonal faces linked by chains to torpedo backs. The faces are engraved with an intricate engine-turned design. The backs are marked with Finnish hallmarks for Helsinki. The maker’s mark is illegible, but the gold content is “890” which translates to around 21K.

Origin: Finland, circa 1930. Condition: excellent, all original, one torpedo has a few dings on the underneath side. Size: faces, 5/8” wide. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An unusual pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the faces featuring cabochon cut aventurine glass (goldstone) set in 18K yellow gold bezels. The faces are connected by gold chains to torpedo backs, also worked in aventurine glass. Aventurine glass was invented in Venice in the 1600s, and enjoyed a resurgence of popularity in the 1920s. The mountings are stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: round faces, 7/16 in. diameter; torpedoes, 7/8 in. long. Weight: 5.6 gr.

An outstanding Retro 18K gold mesh buckle bracelet generously set with diamonds and rubies. The bracelet is constructed with alternating bands of rose and yellow gold, creating a subtle striped pattern. The buckle is topped with platinum and is set with old European cut diamonds around the frame and calibre-cut synthetic rubies (typical of the period) on the prong. The tip of the bracelet strap is channel-set with synthetic rubies. The diamonds are H/I color and VS1 clarity. The mesh has a series of six small "belt holes" that allow the bracelet to be sized appropriately in 1/4-inch increments anywhere from 6 to 7 1/4 inches. The buckle is further secured with a safety catch. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• ORIGIN America, ca. 1935
• DIMENSIONS: overall length, 8 3/4"; strap width, 7/8"; buckle width, 1 5/16"
• WEIGHT 80.3 grams.
• APPROXIMATE TOTAL GEMSTONE WEIGHT: diamond, 1.18 carats; ruby, 2.16 carats
• CONDITION excellent

An attracted 18K yellow gold mesh bracelet studded with small round rubies. The design of the mesh has an element of Gothic tracery. As is typical of jewelry from the Retro period, the rubies are synthetic. The clasp is stamped for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 8-3/8”. Weight: 58.8 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: 1.51 cts.

A heavy pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces simply enhanced with parallel line engraving and joined by an ingenious swivel mechanism. We’ve never before seen this particular form of closure. The faces are slightly convex rather than being entirely flat, thus accounting for the unexpectedly heavy weight. The cufflinks are stamped with “585” for 14K gold and with French import marks. There is also an unidentified, but likely European, maker’s mark.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimensions: faces, 1/2 x 5/8 in. Weight: 13.5 gr.

A handsome pair of Art Deco sterling silver cufflinks, the faces decorated with an applied vine and berry motif slightly reminiscent of Jensen's "Blossom" pattern. The faces are joined by solid connectors to the hinged backs that are simply decorated with scored parallel lines. The connectors are marked "930S/Sterling" and have the maker's mark "W. KR".

Origin: Scandinavia, probably Denmark or Norway, ca. 1940. Size: 23/32" x 17/32". Weight: 14.5 grams.

A lovely Art Deco ring of 10K yellow gold enhanced with a geometric pattern of apple green and black champlevé enamel. The mounting holds a cushion cut synthetic spinel of a pale green color that beautifully accents the enamels. Art Deco enameled rings were popular for a short period around 1930, but are extremely difficult to find now, especially without enamel damage. They are usually set with colored gemstones, often of a synthetic nature, chosen for their color rather than their innate value. The interior of the shank is marked “10K ECCO”.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: crown, 9/16” x 1/2". Finger Size: 8. Weight: 3.8 grams.

For anniversary or wedding jewelry, there’s nothing more romantic than Alphonse Augis’ love token jewelry. Usually, they are round medallions, but this exceptionally rare piece is in the form of a love letter using a rebus to spell out “Plus qu’hier, moins que demain” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow,” a line from a love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand, author of “Cyrano de Bergerac” in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with a synthetic ruby. Augis created the love token in 1907, and this is the only example we’ve seen in a love letter form. The pendant is stamped with Augis’ maker’s mark and with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1930
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 25/32” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 2.3 grams

A very attractive and early pair of Art Deco silver cufflink from Taxco, Mexico. The square faces are decorated with an applied and incised design faintly suggestive of a stylized butterfly. The faces are connected with simple oval connectors. Each face is marked with pre-World War II marks “Taxco Silver”. Earlier Mexican silver cufflinks with pre-war marks are becoming increasingly difficult to find.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp details, all original. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 15.1 grams.

Very delicate 10K yellow gold pin set with a collet-set square-cut synthetic ruby. The linear design and the geometric shape of the stone show the beginnings of Art Deco influence. Similarly, the use of a synthetic stone is common in jewelry of the period. Even makers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpel used synthetics. Marked "10K".

Origin: America, circa 1935. Condition: excellent, except for a chip on one corner of the stone; all original. Size: 3/8" x 1-1/16".

An outstanding pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces set with black harlequin opals (probably doublets) of exceptional quality in simple millegrain borders. The simplicity of the setting allows the opals to display their superb play-of-color. Virtually every color of the spectrum is visible in the opals, but with a preponderance of red, orange, green and violet. The backs are marked "18Ct Britannic", a high-end English maker of gold and platinum cufflinks and watch bands in the 1930s.

Origin: England, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16 x 7/16". Weight: 9.9 gr.

An exquisite pair of Art Deco heavy 18K yellow gold snap cufflinks. Each round face is designed as a lion’s head superimposed over the classic French sunburst motif that made a reappearance in the decorative arts during the Art Deco period. The quality of workmanship is superb, with outstanding detailing in the design. Gold snap cufflinks are quite uncommon. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K “tete d’aigle” gold hallmarks and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 17.0 grams.

A very attractive pair of late Arts & Crafts or early Art Deco silver cufflinks by Saethers Gull og Solvvarefabrikk, a Norwegian silversmith known for inventive designs. One face of each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting through the cuff. The connectors are fully hallmarked.

Origin: Norway, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 27/32” x 1/2. Weight: 15.5 grams.

An 18K yellow gold and platinum brickwork strap and buckle ring by J. E. Caldwell. The buckle and the tongue of the strap are worked in platinum and set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and VS clarity. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 2 to 8. This style of ring was popular in the Retro period, but only Caldwell, Tiffany and few other luxury makers crafted them with adjustable mechanisms such as this. Stamped with Caldwell’s mark and appropriate serial numbers.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 11/32” wide. Finger Size: 2 to 8. Weight: 8.3 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .38 cts.

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

Very fine, heavy, fully three-dimensional 18K yellow gold figural brooch in the form of a 420 Class racing sailboat by Fred of Paris. It can also be worn as a pendant. The mast is fully Bermuda-rigged with beautifully detailed sails worked in contrasting matte and polished gold. Two figures are hiking out over the edge of the hull and waves lap at the sides. The 420 Class was designed in 1959 and became the leading training vessel for Olympic-class boats. Fred designed a series of brooches depicting popular European racing sailboats such as the "420" and the "Flying Dutchman". The bottom of the hull is stamped with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an obscured maker's mark. The back retains the original pinstem and trombone clasp.

• France, ca 1965
• Excellent condition, sharp detail, all original
• 1-1/4" x 1-7/8"
• 11.7 grams.

A very handsome and unusual pair of cufflinks comprised of moss agate discs with 18K gold mountings. The stones are nicely colored, with lots of green “moss” suspended in the translucent background. The fronts are accented with decorative gold scrollwork. The faces are connected with chains to plain gold bar backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Ca. 1930. Origin: Europe. Condition: excellent, one face has a 1/8” flake on the back side of the edge. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 6.0 grams.

A handsome pair of Georg Jensen silver cufflinks in pattern #5. This was an early cufflink design be Jensen and was made with and without a gemstone in the center opening. The round faces are connected by chains to foliate torpedo backs. The cufflinks retain an old patina. The backs of the faces are stamped with the combination of Jensen and assay marks used 1915-30 and with the pattern number “5” and “Kopenhagen”.

Origin: Denmark, 1915-30. Condition: excellent; all original; old patina. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 7.5 grams.