Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1603)

A handsome and heavy 14K yellow gold ring in a flattened chain link design similar to the classic Gucci “Cuban Link” design. The ring is substantial enough to be worn by a man, but the openness of the design and the split shank makes it equally attractive for a woman. The interior is stamped 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 7/16” x 3/4". Finger Size: 8-3/4. Weight: 9.4 grams.

A heavy pair of mid-century 14K yellow gold dome cufflinks in a Florentine finish, each centering a gypsy-set round brilliant cut citrine. The gemstones are medium slightly brownish orangy-yellow in color and constrast nicely with the surrounding gold. The toggle backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter; 3/8” deep. Weight: 14.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.0 carats.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold and pearl ring in a sophisticated modernist the design. The split shank creates a flat crown enclosing a row of three pearls, graduating from 5.3 to 6.6 mm. The quality of the pearls are easily on a par with Mikimoto. The luster is superb, the color is cream with rosé overtones, and the surfaces are smooth. Overall, the quality is estimated at AA. The quality of the mounting itself, is likewise superb. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: crown, 3/4" x 7/16". Finger Size: 4-3/4 (could easily be enlarged). Weight: 9.5 grams.

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A fine pair of 14K gold cufflinks set with high-domed amethyst cabochons by David-Andersen. The amethysts have deep, rich coloring and excellent clarity. David-Andersen is widely known for its enameled silver jewelry, but also made a very limited number of pieces in gold. Each cufflink is stamped “D-A 585”.

• Origin: Norway, ca. 1965
• Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Weight: 11.7 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 21.42 carats

A superb pair of vintage couture 18K yellow gold and carnelian cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. The square faces, with rounded corners, support round carnelian plaques of very rich color. The gold structure beneath the carnelian shows through the translucent gemstones to create a strong geometric pattern typical of Cardin's aesthetic. Cardin was fascinated by the juxtaposition of squares and circles beginning with his famous "Bubble Dress" in 1954, and he returned to the theme repeatedly over the next two decades. The faces are attached with solid arched connectors to spherical backs.

In the 1960's, Cardin collaborated with a handful of young modernist jewelry designers such as Jean Dinh Van to create fine jewelry items. There were never many of these designs, and they were only sold at Cardin's flagship couture boutique in Paris. Some of these rare designs have now entered the permanent holdings of the French national jewelry collection at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris.

The cufflinks are signed "P. Cardin" and are fully hallmarked with appropriate French stamps for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8 x 5/8". Weight: 15.1 grams.

A wonderfully detailed mallard duck, worked in multicolored 15K gold and green enamel flies across the finger in this Edwardian stickpin conversion ring. The feathers are beautifully worked in yellow, rose and green gold as well as a touch of platinum. The shank is 14K.

• Original stickpin, circa 1900
• Excellent condition
• 13/16" x 1/2"
• Size 7
• 2.3 grams

A lovely sentimental jewel by the esteemed London jeweler Murrle, Bennet & Co. featuring a heart-shaped citrine surmounted by a crown and a scrolling frame set with seed pearls. In Victorian symbology, a heart topped with a single crown conveyed the sentiment “ruler of my heart.” The citrine has very nice pure yellow coloring, with just a hint of orange. It would be very easy to add a small hidden ring at either end of the pin, so it can be worn from a chain. Murrle, Bennet & Co. was a leading jeweler, often collaborating with Liberty & Co. The pin is stamped “15Ct” and also has Murrle, Bennett’s hallmark.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.6 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 5.39 carats

A stunning mid-19th century brooch featuring a pansy, the lower petals set with rose cut diamonds and the upper petals with buff-cut amethysts of a deep violet hue. The colorful flower is simply presented against a plain gold background. In Victorian flower language, the pansy represented the sentiment "Think of me" and jewels with pansies were often given as love tokens or going away gifts. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a bail at the back. The original clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .36 carat; amethyst, 4.5 carats.

An impressive 18K yellow gold hinged bangle, the front set with a cabochon emerald surrounded by old mine cut and rose cut diamonds arranged in a floral motif. The larger diamonds are in buttercup settings that add more depth to the design. The emerald has good color with very light treatment and is probably of Brazilian origin. The back side of the bracelet is pierced to retain a feeling of lightness. The hinged opening and oval shape makes the bracelet comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks and an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: interior circumference, 6-11/16”; width, 1-3/16” at front tapering to 3/8” at back
• Weight: 30.6 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: emerald, 2.15 carats; diamond, 1.3 carats

A beautiful enameled oval locket in 18K gold, the cover decorated with a wreath of blue enameled forget-me-nots, each centered with a small rose cut diamond, against a black background. The design is encircled with additional black taille d’epargne enameling. The back is also decorated with blue forget-me-nots surrounded with taille d’epargne enameling and has a shield-shaped reserve that was never monogrammed. In Victorian floriography (the "language of flowers") forget-me-nots represented faithfulness, true love, and remembrance. The exposed gold surfaces on both the front and back are enhanced with engraved and stippled decoration. The interior retains the original glass covers and photos of two 19th century gentlemen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold marks.Origin: France, ca. 1855

Condition: excellent, less than 5% loss to taille d’epargne enamel, mostly on the back

Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding bail and jump ring)

Weight: 13.2 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .08 carat

A handsome griffin with back-stretched wings, a lion’s head and a curling serpent’s tail grasps an old mine cut diamond in this 19th century French brooch and necklace slide. Interestingly, the creature’s tongue is licking the diamond. The eye is set with a small faceted ruby. The back retains the original pin stem and a hinged clasp so the griffin can be attached to a chain. The hinged clasp is marked “Déposé” meaning the griffin was a patented design. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 3/4”
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .12 carat
• Weight: 4.7 grams

Fine Napoleon III 18K yellow gold pansy brooch, the upper large petals accented with a lacy pierced floral border and the lower petals with a row of alternating rose cut diamonds and antique cushion cut rubies. The gold surfaces have a matte finish that mimics the velvety texture of pansy blossoms. Delicate engraving brings out the veining on the lower petals. The diamonds and rubies are of fine color. In the Romantic language of flowers, the pansy was used to symbolize remembrance (the French word for pansy is the same as the word for thought). The diamond and ruby border is faintly heart-shaped, perhaps adding another layer of secret meaning. The back retains the original extended pinstem and c-clasp fully stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-7/32". Weight: 5.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .37 ct; ruby, .72 ct.

Breathtaking French 18K gold, silver, diamond and pink tourmaline brooch from the reign of the Emperor Napoleon III. The brooch is formed as a naturalistic swirl of leaves, set throughout with rose-cut diamonds. The design features three large old mine-cut diamonds, each a bit larger than 1/2 carat. The center stone is prong-set while the outer stones are collet-set. The old European cut diamonds are scattered along an unusual knife-edge setting at the top of the brooch. The gold setting is topped with silver in the traditional style of 19th century French jewels. The brooch suspends a collet-set oval pink tourmaline cabochon topped with a collet-set old European-cut diamond. The diamonds used in the period, as would be expected of such a significant piece. The color is a very bright white and the clarity is quite good for the period. The tourmaline is a soft pink shade with just a tinge of violet. The brooch retains the original extended pinstema and c-clasp, both of which are stamped with French 18K marks and the mark of an unidentified jeweler (AH).

Origin: Paris, ca. 1855. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-5/8" x 1-19/32". Weight: 11.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.6 carats; tourmaline, 1.5 carats.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks from the era of Napoleon III. The navette-shaped faces are simply decorated with interlaced swirls. The faces are joined by chains. The cufflinks are stamped with French "tete de cheval" hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4" x 5/16". Weight: 6.0 gr.

An exceptionally fine and very heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces cast and hand-pierced in an ornate design of a mythological griffin. More properly, the creature is a Basilisk with the body of a serpent and the head and wings of an eagle. Deatailed scales and feathers are engraved for added interest. The back faces are worked in a laurel pattern. The quality of workmanship is so superb that even the back side of each face is entirely engraved to match the front. The cufflinks are stamped with French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimensions: front faces, 11/16 x 5/8 in. Weight: 10.4 gr.

An exceptionally fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces hand-pierced with an ornate depiction of a mythological griffin. The workmanship is superbly done with heavy chased detail throughout. The surfaces show a mix of polished and semi-matte finishes. The backs have an ingenious folding mechanism that clasps the cuff without being too obvious. The clasps are marked with 19th century French patents, as well as hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A pretty 18Kyellow gold pin in the shape of a salamander from the reign of Emperor Napoleon III. Animal brooches were very popular in the mid-19th century, and reptiles were especially favored. The salamander has a long history in France, and was the personal symbol of King François whose rule began in the late 15th century. This example is beautifully engraved with delicate scales, claws, and eyes. The back is set with a line of alternating seed pearls and Persian turquoise cabochons. The head is set with a larger turquoise. The original clasp is marked with the “tête de cheval” hallmark used only outside Paris between 1838 and 1919.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/16” long. Weight: 3.5 grams.