Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A classic pair of mmid-Century modernist cufflinks by Lucien Piccard, featuring a circlet of round brilliant-cut garnets around a central plaque of gold enhanced with a Florentine finish. Piccard more often used synthetic sapphires or synthetic rubies in his cufflink designs. The garnets have a subtle, deep red coloring that contrasts beautifully with the richly-textured gold without being too flashy. Signed "Lucien Piccard" and marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1950.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: faces, 3/4" diameter.
• Weight: 11.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.25 carats.

A beautiful pair of Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Louis Armand Rault. The design features a maiden with large flowers in her hair. The edges of the faces are irregularly cut to conform to the outlines of the design. The faces are connected with chains to backs decorated in a strapwork motif. Louis Rault worked primarily for Boucheron and was widely considered the finest gold and silver chaser of his time. He largely set the foundation for Boucheron's gold medal victory at the 1900 Exposition Universelle. Each face is signed with Rault's monogram and each cufflink is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: front face, 5/8" diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams.

A very unusual pair of 14K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, one end the traditional ball shape and the other in a geometric “rooftop” shape. Louis Tamis & Sons opened in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other luxury objects. In the 1930s, the company manufactured for Paul Flato. By mid-century, it had become on of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers, creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Each cufflink is stamped “14K” and bears Tamis’ hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940.
• Dimensions: “rooftop” faces, 1/2” x 1/2”; ball faces, 3/8” diam.
• Weight: 10.3 grams.
• Condition: excellent.

A very fine dress set, comprising a pair of barbell cufflinks and four shirt studs fashioned from large South Sea black pearls set in 18K yellow gold. The pearls in the cufflinks are approximate 12.9mm and those in the studs are approximately 10.6mm. The pearls, with good luster and surface condition, are graded as AA quality. The body color of the cufflink pearls are grayish-silver with rose overtones and the stud pearls are blackish-silver with rose and green overtones. Lighter pearls are not often used for men’s jewelry, but the rich coloring and subtle overtones of these pearls creates a very masculine appeal. Louis Tamis & Sons opened his studio in 1909 and quickly became the leading American maker of gold boxes and other objects. In the 1930s, he manufactured for Paul Flato. Since the middle of the century, the company has become one of New York’s most exclusive manufacturing jewelers—creating commissioned pieces for Tiffany & Co., Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as a small collection of jewelry under its own name. Each of the cufflinks and studs is marked “18K” and has Tamis’ hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Weight: 21.g grams.

This classic late Victorian bangle bracelet is set with a row of gorgeous opal cabochons in graduated sizes enhanced with old European cut and single cut diamonds. The opals have superb play of color evenly spread across the stones’ surfaces. Primary colors are blues and greens with shots of orange and red. The interior of the bracelet has a jeweler’s inventory number, but no maker’s mark. It is presented in a fitted box that appears to be original. The interior of the box bears the name Wm Mossman, Jeweller & Goldsmith, 135 Princes St (Edinburgh, Scotland). The clasp is stamped with French import marks. Tested and guaranteed 15K.

• Origin: Scotland, ca. 1900
• Condition: mint
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide at front; 6-1/8” circumference
• Weight: 17.3 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 7.36 carats; diamond, .37 carat

A pretty Georgian heart pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring a double-cut citrine heart. The gold surfaces are decorated in a repousse floral motif. The citrine is cut with lapidary facets on both sides it looks the same from the back or front. The stone has very pleasant pale yellow coloring. The jump ring is original to the pendant. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1820
• Condition: excellent, very light wear on some of the citrine’s facet junctions visible upon close inspection
• Dimension: 1-1/16” x 1-3/4” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 17.4 carats
• Weight: 13.7 grams

A pretty late Georgian example of a Halley’s Comet pin worked in 14K (perhaps 15K) yellow gold and featuring a light blue paste stone to represent the comet’s nucleus. The paste is set in an elegant buttercup-type setting accented with an engraved gallery. Blue paste is less common than other colors, and makes a very nice presentation. The comet’s tail depicted in the engraved and voluted gold setting.

In 1705, Edmond Halley correctly predicted the comet’s return in 1758. When it returned again in 1835 (and in 1910), jewelers were ready with fashionable pins to celebrate the comet’s passage.

• Origin: England, ca 1835
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” long
• Weight: 2.9 grams

An impressive 42-carat citrine centers this elegant pendant. The 14K gold setting features stylized flowers and foliage on each side of the stone. The citrine has very good even brownish-orange color resembling a good topaz. Overall, the impression is “statement piece.” The original bail is stamped “585” for 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” wide; 1-15/16” long including bail
• Approximate Citrine Weight: 42.02 carats
• Weight: 17.0 grams

A fine pair of mid-century modern 14K yellow gold and diamond cufflinks by Larter. The heavy gold faces are decorated with parallel lines and the canted edges are bead-set with brilliant round-cut diamonds. The diamonds are of very good quality, estimated at I color, VS clarity. The stones are set in white gold enhanced with milgrain borders. The backs are completed with the older type of toggle mounting. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950.

Dimensions: faces, 5/8" x 1/2".

Weight: 13.5 grams.

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

Condition: excellent; all original.

A classically elegant six-piece dress set worked in abalone mother-of-pearl, 14K yellow gold, platinum, and seed pearls. The cufflinks are double sided, with oval abalone plaques surrounded by engine-turned platinum borders. Each face is centered with a small seed pearl. The abalone has very fine luster with a nice play of green, rose, and a little orange flashes when caught in direct light. The four matching shirt studs have round faces. Each piece is stamped with Larter's hallmark. The set is sold in an old, though not original, leather-covered dress set box.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: cufflinks, 3/4" x 1/2"; studs, 1/2" diameter.
• Weight: 15.7 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of Larter 14K gold beanback cufflinks, the faces decorated with the image of a man with wildly flailing hair and grasping a blue sapphire in his mouth. The treatment of the hair and the choice of a blue stone suggests that the image represents the God of the Seas, Poseidon (Neptune). Alternatively, it could be Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. The sapphires have bright cornflower blue color and are have eye-clean clarity. The cufflinks are marked with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: faces, 15/32" x 1/2". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .14 ct.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces collet-set with jasper chalcedony cabochons. The stones display a nice variety of swirling colors in hues of rust, grayish-green and cream. The figure-eight connectors are marked “14K” and have Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A particularly elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks by Larter. The round mother-of-pearl faces are centered with small natural pearls and surrounded with platinum borders decorated with laurel leaf engraving. The backs are in 14K yellow gold. The mother-of-pearl has very nice luster with pinkish and greenish overtones. These cufflinks would be especially appropriate to be worn with white-tie. The connectors are stamped with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr.

A beautiful pair of heavy 14K yellow gold and platinum cufflinks by Larter, each face featuring a bezel-set old European cut diamond. The faces are worked with engine-turned engraving in a complex sunburst and floral pattern, while the platinum borders are engraved in a beaded pattern against a stippled background. Even the hinged bridge connectors are beautifully engraved. The diamonds are of nice quality and good color. The backs are stamped with Larter’s hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 11.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .392 carat.

A beautiful dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, the round faces set with abalone disks encircled by platinum borders. The abalone has fine guilloche carving in a chrysanthemum pattern and the platinum borders are decorated with an engraved laurel wreath design. The abalone has very nice luster with overtones of rose and green. Abalone cufflinks are richer looking and much more uncommon than mother-of-pearl. The backs of each piece are stamped with the Larter hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: cufflinks, 14 mm (9/16 in) diameter; studs, 8 mm (5/16 in) diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A very nice extended set of cufflinks and shirt studs, worked in 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl by Larter. The double-sided cufflinks have concave oval mother of pearl faces centered by a simple gold disc. Both the large and small studs are made in the same manner, but are in the traditional round shape. Originally, the larger studs would have been used for the waistcoat and the smaller studs for the shirt. When wearing true “white tie”, the set can be used exactly in this way, but for use with a tuxedo, the owner can choose to wear either the large or small set in the shirt’s buttonholes. The mother of pearl has very nice iridescence and a glossy surface. Each piece is marked “14K” and with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink faces, 11/16” x 7/16”; large studs, 17/32” diameter; small studs, 5/16” diameter.

An unusual and handsome 14K yellow gold tie bar designed as a Gothic-style strap hinge by Larter & Sons. When not being used to hold a tie in place, the piece could also be used as a money clip. The design is nicely detailed with beveled edges and raised bolts. The back is stamped with Larter's hallmark. Larter manufactured pieces such as this for leading jewelry retailers such as Tiffany and Cartier.

• Origin: America, ca. 1925
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 2-7/16" x 3/4"
• Weight: 7.5 grams

An extremely fine pair of 18K yellow gold half-hoop earrings channel-set with princess cut diamonds and square cut blue sapphires. Like all of Wayne’s jewelry, the gemstones are of the very top quality. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The sapphires are extra-fine quality, with strongly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The earrings have the original posts with omega backs. Each earring is marked with the model number “4”, the serial number “188156” and “750”. Each is also has Wayne’s signature.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” wide; 3/4” long. Weight: 11.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .8 ct; sapphire, 1.54 cts.