Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1586)

A rare World War II era 14K yellow gold tie bar in the form of an airplane propeller. This motif would have been considered a patriotic statement in gentleman’s jewelry at the time. The back is marked “14K” and has the hallmark for Richardson Manufacturing Company, a Newark jeweler.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.4 grams.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of cufflinks.

A fine pair of modernist silver cufflinks by master Danish designer Niels Erik From. The large concave round faces are each set with a round amber cabochon in a dark reddish-orange color approaching that of cherry amber. The cabochons are set at the edges to create a very modern, assymetrical look. From moved away from traditional Scandinavian design in the 1960’s with very bold, angular designs such as this. The connectors are marked “Sterling/Denmark/N.E. From/925S”.

Origin: Nakskov, Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, polished. Size: 7/8” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A fine pair of mid-19th century 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks set with banded agate and gold-bearing quartz. The quartz is generously spotted with gold, showing only isolated areas of creamy white quartz, and the agate is nicely patterned with even bands of cream, brown and tan. Shreve & Co. was one of the first fine jewelers in San Francisco, capitalizing on the new wealth generated by the California Gold Rush. By the mid-1880’s, the store advertised its selection of jewelry made with gold bearing quartz, and it became a specialty. Today, gold quartz pieces—especially those marked by Shreve—are difficult to find. Each cufflink is signed “Shreve & Co. 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 17/32” x 7/32”.

A classic 14K yellow gold dress set comprising a pair of double-faced cufflinks and three shirt studs. The round faces are engraved with concentric circles around central old European cut diamonds. The diamonds have bright H-I color and VS clarity. Each piece is marked by Larter, who manufactured jewelry for leading houses including Bailey, Banks & Biddle; Tiffany; Cartier, etc. The set is presented in its original Bailey, Banks & Biddle fitted box. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 5/8” diameter; studs, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 13.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .29 ct.

A fine pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold. Each face comprises a large baroque pearl beautifully mounted in a variation of a buttercup setting. The pearls have fine, lustrous surfaces with pronounced orient in shades of green and rose over a light bluish-gray body color. The navette-shaped back faces are fashioned from plaques of mother-of-pearl set in milligrained gold borders. The mother-of-pearl is particularly nice, with luster and overtones equal to those of the baroque pearls. Because the mother-of-pearl faces are sufficiently large, this pair of cufflinks can be worn with either face on the outside, providing two completely different looks. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably American, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 19/32” x 7/16”; back faces, 15/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 11.3 grams.

An outstanding, oversized pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks fashioned as lengths of bamboo by Cartier. The surfaces are worked in the Florentine finish popular in mid-century jewelry. The "notches" in the bamboo are polished for nice contrast. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are marked "Cartier/18K/Italy" and have the serial number "26464".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 1-5/16" x 5/8"; back faces, 15/16" x 5/16". Weight: 23.3 grams.

A very attractive pair of Victorian 10K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces featuring oval cabochon amethysts in a foliate-engraved borders. The backs are marked 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8" x 3/8". Weight: 3.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.8 carats.

A handsome, inventive pair of modernist silver cufflinks with opaque black champleve enamel faces by Meka Reklamegaver (1951-89). The black enamel is pierced with overlapping elongated silver teardrops. The connectors are marked “Meka Sterling Denmark”.

Origin: Holte, Denmark, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 11.4 grams.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks and three shirt studs fashioned as buttons. The buttons are nicely detailed, complete with gold “stitches.” The cufflinks are signed “Tiffany & Co.”, the studs are signed “T & Co.”, and each piece has Larter’s 14K manufacturer’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 5/16” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

A classic Retro 14K gold, platinum, diamond and ruby mesh buckle ring by Tiffany & Co. The folding buckle is set with four round rubies and a small diamond in platinum. The pointed tail of the ring is set with three additional round rubies. The mesh buckle design was popular for bracelets in Retro jewelry, but rings were far less common. In most cases, rings had a false buckle and could not be opened and closed to adjust the size. This example is functional, and can be adjusted from 5-3/4 to 9-1/2. The inside of the clasp is marked by Tiffany.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, one ruby has minor surface abrasion visible under 10x magnification. Size: 11/32” wide. Weight: 7.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .04 ct; ruby, .48 ct.

A handsome pair of Edwardian yellow gold cufflinks, the faces formed from barbell-shaped batons of green serpentine. The stone has an attractive semi-opaque pale green color flecked with black specks. Serpentine was often used as a substitute for jade. The gold backs are marked “9Ct”.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8" long. Weight: 4.8 grams.

A very handsome and heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces comprising deep violet-blue spheres of lapis lazuli joined by gold collars worked with beaded and zigzag decoration. The lapis has the fine even color often called Afghan. The faces are joined with chains to plain gold baton backs. The batons are fully stamped with 18K hallmarks for London, 1992.

Origin: England, 1992. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/8” long. Weight: 14.4 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow gold ring and pearl ring by Tiffany & Co. The split shank is enhanced with a chain-link motif at the crown and is set with a single 7.5 mm Akoya cultured pearl. The pearl is of very fine quality with white body color and silver overtones—the shading most favored by Tiffany. The luster is is very good and the surface is excellent condition. The interior of the shank is stamped “750” and “Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8. Weight: 4.8 gr.

An attractive pair of gilt 800 silver double-faced cufflinks. The round faces are simply decorated with concentric rings bordering central gilt reserves. The faces are joined with the hinge bridge connectors more often seen in Scandinavian designs. The connectors are marked “800” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “EP” in a diamond-shaped punch.

Origin: Germany, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, original gilding intact. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.7 gr.

A lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau bracelet comprising a series of round floral plaques, each hinged separately for comfort. The center five plaques are set with a round brilliant cut ruby at the middle of each blossom. The rubies have a strong purplish-red color that contrasts nicely with the yellow gold. Each plaque is pierced around the flower petals for added delicacy. The concealed clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.02 cts.

An extremely heavy pair of 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks made by Louis Tamis & Sons and retailed by Tiffany & Co. The round faces are simply decorated with parallel ribbed surfaces. The faces are joined by solid hinged connectors. The cufflinks are very heavy and have a classic, masculine appeal. Tamis was one of New York’s most important goldsmiths and supplied goods to Tiffany, Cartier and Verdura among others. Each cufflink is marked “14K” and has Tamis’ maker’s mark and Tiffany’s retailer mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 21.6 grams.

A heavy and attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks in the flip-up style. The round faces are decorated with engraved lines in a herringbone pattern. After being inserted in the button hole, the ends are flipped up to secure the cuff. This style is rather uncommon in cufflinks from North America, being much more prevalent in French cufflinks from the period. The connectors are signed by Birks and are marked “14Kt”.

Origin: Canada, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.

A fascinating pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with square rock crystals. The crystals have concave circles in the center and the edges are finished with an oxidized surface that gives the impression of hematite. The clear circles reveal quirky, almost cartoon-like portraits of dogs that have very rigid demeanors like those often seen in 19th century portraits of people. These are not to be confused with reverse-carved Essex crystals. These cufflinks are made in an entirely different way and we’ve never seen a pair like them. The square faces are linked with chains to gold baton backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, one dog is turned slightly sideways, but it appears to have always been that way. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.9 grams.

A very good 18K yellow gold Venetian Etruscan charm in the shape of a crown set with amethysts and pearls. The gold surfaces are decorated with ornate bead and twisted wire ornaments. The bottom of the charm has a large oval brilliant amethyst weighing approximately 6.77 carats, while the sides are set with four oval amethysts of 3.58 carats each. The lower sides are also collet-set with a band of smaller round amethysts. The amethysts are nicely cut with good brilliance and even, medium violet color. The top of the crown features four cultured pearls. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-1/8” x 1” x 1-3/8” high (excluding bail). Weight: 19.4 grams. Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 23.49 cts.

This delicate 14K yellow gold ring is set with a beautiful fire opal surrounded at compass points by old European cut diamonds. Fire opal is an uncommon stone, and it is very rare to find with play-of-color, the flash effect seen in traditional opals. This stone flashes with red, green and blue. The strong orange body color and fine clarity makes this a beautiful stone. The diamonds are quite good quality and are particularly bright against the orange fire opal. The shank is finished with milligrained edges on both sides. It is engraved “My love, forever 6-16-56”. It is stamped 14K and has an unknown maker’s mark.

Origin: America, 1956. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6. Crown Size: 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 2.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: fire opal, .71 ct; diamond, .12 ct.

A handsome pair of modernist cufflinks worked as concave silver discs centering collet-set amber cabochons with applied beads to the setting. The amber has a beautiful honey color and an abundance of the highly-prized natural discoid inclusions called “sun spangles”. These are often created by enhancements, but the spangles in this amber are naturally occurring. The toggles are marked “830”.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950s. Condition: excellent, nice patina. Size: 13/16” diameter. Weight: 11.5 grams.

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring. This classic modernist design, originally created by H Stern, features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is more pastel than most, with a preponderance of pale pink, green, blue and purple. The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Size: 13/16” diameter; 9/16" high. Weight: 4.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.14 cts (amethyst, .82; aquamarine, .83; citrine, .61; green tourmaline, .71; pink tourmaline, 1.17).

An elegant pair of sterling silver cufflinks, the faces depicting a long-haired maiden gazing at a star. The faces are hallmarked for London, 1902 and also have an unidentified maker’s mark “RF”. The faces were originally buttons and are now connected with silver chains to torpedo backs.

Origin: England, 1902. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 11/16” diameter. Weight: 9.5 gr.

A particularly elegant pair of double-sided cufflinks by Larter. The round mother-of-pearl faces are centered with small natural pearls and surrounded with platinum borders decorated with laurel leaf engraving. The backs are in 14K yellow gold. The mother-of-pearl has very nice luster with pinkish and greenish overtones. These cufflinks would be especially appropriate to be worn with white-tie. The connectors are stamped with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 5.0 gr.

Exquisitely rare Art Nouvean plaque pendant by master jeweler and enamelist Eugene Feuillatre. The overall bell-shaped outline mimics the shape of the flowers surrounded the golden maiden at the center of the pendant. The flowers are worked with en plein enamels in subtle shades of pale green and gold translucent enamels, and are surrounded by openwork filled with plique-a-jour enamels in milky opalescent shades of pale rose and blue. Every detail is perfectly worked. The best of the French Art Nouveau jewelers believed that a jewel should look as good from the back as from the front. The back of this piece features fine hand-engraved details showing the maiden's flowing hair and the delicate veining of the flowers' leaves and petals. the back is signed with Feutillatre's cartouche and is marked with a bigorne (a 19th century French guard against forgeries) and the "tete d'aigle" guarantee for 18K gold.

Eugene Feuillatre was born in Dukerque in 1870 and began exploring enameling techniques at the age of 18. He was hired by Lalique to execute his enamel designs and continued that association until around 1898 when he exhibited to great acclaim at the Paris Salon of the Societe des Artistes Francaises, where the Musee des Art Decoratifs (the decorative arts wing of the Louvre) acquired one of his works for its permanent collection. By the following year, he was exhibiting regularly at the New Gallery (London) and the Libre Esthetique (Brussels) alongside jewelry luminaries such as Lalique and Fouquet. Feuillatre exhibited successfully at the international expositions in Paris (1900) and Milan (1902). Today, he is considered among the greatest French fathers of Art Nouveau jewels.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, absolutely no enamel damage. Size: 1-1/4" x 2-9/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 13.7 gr.

Extraordinary pair of early Cartier cufflinks, the round faces featuring brilliant green guilloche enamel in a starburst pattern, bordered with rose-cut diamonds set in delicate double-milgrained platinum borders. The enamel plaques are engraved in a manner that gives the enamel a distinct two-toned appearance and are set into 18K yellow gold backs that are attached to one another with gold chain links. The chains have a spring ring clasp, so one face can be removed for ease in attaching the cufflinks to a shirt. The backs are signed "Cartier Paris" and have serial numbers. The cufflinks are appropriately marked with "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K gold (the cufflinks predate the law requiring marks for platinum). Enameled Cartier cufflinks of this quality simply do not appear on the market.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, light surface wear to enamel visible under 10x magnification. Weight: 9.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.52 cts.

A lovely pair of 18K yellow gold set with cultured pearls by Mikimoto. Each earring features a pair of 7.3mm pearls with very fine luster, blemish-free surfaces and cream body color with rose overtones. The pearls are simply nested in a swirl of gold. The backs are marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr.

A superb pair of Art Deco cufflinks, the octagonal faces worked in platinum over gold. Each face features sugarloaf cabochon sapphire of fine, vividly saturated blue. Each cabochon is flanked by four rectangular sapphires flush-mounted with milgrained borders. The faces are joined with chain connectors. Marked 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16" diameter. Weight: 10.99 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.16 cts.

An outstanding Victorian lion's claw pendant mounted in 18K yellow god in the Etruscal Revival style. The mounting is covered with twisted rope, stippling and applied bead decoration, and is finished with a slightly matte surface. The quality of workmanship suggests the workshops of Rome as a likely place of origin. Lion's and tiger's claws were often brought back as souvenirs from hunting trips to Africa and India and were transformed into jewels. This claw is quite generously sized and is in very good condition, with a sharp point and no scaling. There is the natural splitting usually found on the inside of the curved edge. Tested and guaranteed 18K. French import hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: probably Italy, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-5/8" (excluding remnants of chain) x 1-7/8". Weight: 9.1 gr.

NOTE: We will not ship this item outside the United States.

A classic 18K yellow gold link bracelet in the "Atlas" pattern by Tiffany & Co. The design is based on the Roman numerals from the clock over the doorway of Tiffany's NY flagship store. The clasp is signed by Tiffany and is dated 2003. This bracelet is currently available only in white gold and is priced at $3,700.

Origin: Italy, 2003. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/16" wide; 7-1/8 long. Weight: 28.7 gr.

An exceptionally fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces hand-pierced with an ornate depiction of a mythological griffin. The workmanship is superbly done with heavy chased detail throughout. The surfaces show a mix of polished and semi-matte finishes. The backs have an ingenious folding mechanism that clasps the cuff without being too obvious. The clasps are marked with 19th century French patents, as well as hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1870. Weight: 14.9 gr.

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks from the era of Napoleon III. The navette-shaped faces are simply decorated with interlaced swirls. The faces are joined by chains. The cufflinks are stamped with French "tete de cheval" hallmarks for 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 3/4" x 5/16". Weight: 6.0 gr.

A rare pair of Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bean-back cufflinks, the oval faces with repousse decoration representing Poseidon (“Neptune”), god of the sea. The god is identifiable by the trident that forms his crown. The background at first appears to be a simple stippled pattern, but careful examination shows that the background is actually worked in a very fine pattern of fish scales. Mythollogical subjects were very popular in men’s jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but this is the first time we’ve seen cufflinks with the image of Poseidon. The bean backs are marked by an unidentified American maker and are stamped “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 11/16” x 1/2". Weight: 5.3 grams.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks by Larter. The square faces have slightly rounded edges and feature almandite garnet cabochons. The garnets have strong red coloring without too much of the brown overtones that can make garnets dark. The connectors are marked with Larter’s hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.04 cts.

A fine and large 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with various colored gemstones including green tourmaline, aquamarine, garnet, citrine and amethyst. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the combination and arrangement of the gemstones. The design was created specifically to show off the range of gemstones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s Soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with an older Stern hallmark at “750” for 18K. Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5 (easily enlarged). Size: 1-1/8” diameter; 5/8” high. Weight: 7.5 grams. Approxiamte Total Gemstone Weight: 8.37 cts (garnet, 2.16cts; tourmaline, 1.89cts; amethyst, 1.80cts; citrine, 1.44cts; aquamarine, 1.08cts).