Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1586)

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces shaped as a convex curve of gold flanked on either side by square cut natural rubies. The superbly-matched rubies have excellent color and clarity, with no indications of heat or other treatment. The nature of the microscopic inclusions suggests Burma as the region of origin. We have seen a duplicate pair of these cufflinks, except set with sapphires, that were signed "Cartier NY". Cartier's New York store retailed jewelry made by various manufacturers such as Larter and Krementz. Sometimes they were marked with Cartier's retailer mark and sometimes not. Stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 3/4". Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.92 cts.

An elegant teardrop-shaped 19K yellow gold locket, the front cover set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires and pearls in a pretty floral pattern. The gemstones have bright color that contrasts nicely with the high karat gold. The front cover has the slightly matte Russian finish sometimes seen in the late 19th century, while the back cover is polished. The bail is stamped with Hungarian marks for 18K and with other continental marks for 19.2K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no monograms, two extremely shallow dings on the back cover (only visible from the inside). Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-3/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .03 ct; sapphire, .10 ct; diamond, .13 ct.

A handsome pair of French silver Art Nouveau cufflinks, the faces decorated with a young woman against a spider web background. In Art Nouveau jewelry, the spider web motif was meant to symbolize entrapment and danger—in this case as a counterpoint to the maiden who suggests innocence. The outer edges of the faces follow the geometric shape of the spider web at the top, but are more rounded at the bottom of the design where the woman’s hair and clothing flows. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs engraved in a whiplash curve motif. The cufflinks are illegibly stamped with the maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original, very good detail. Dimensions: front faces, 9/16” diameter. Weight: 3.9 gr.

A gorgeous Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover designed with what appears to be a flower with ornately ruffled petals. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the flower petals are actually the flowing hair of a woman whose face can be seen at the upper portion of the locket. The design is even completed with pistils and stamens. "Anthropomorphism"--the merging of human and animal or human and plant characteristics was a popular decorative element in the Art Nouveau period. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; a few pinpoints on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter. Weight: 7.5 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral brooch featuring an ornate lily blossom enameled in translucent shades of blue and yellow enamel. The engraving of the gold surface under the enamel shows through to add elegant texture. The flower is centered by a small old mine cut diamond and is surrounded by a swirling frame set with 59 seed pearls. The reverse retains the original watch hook. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, replaced clasp. Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 1-1/16". Weight: 5.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pin with a daisy and foliage enameled in translucent shades of green, yellow, rose and white enamel. The center of the blossom is set with a seed pearl. The flower is enclosed within a swirling gold frame. Flower pins of this sort were often used to convey sentiments from the "language of flowers." In this case, the daisy represents "innocence." The back retains its original watch hook, pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: overall excellent; two minute enamel nicks on the daisy's petals visible only under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-9/32" x 7/8". Weight: 3.8 gr.

An superb 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with an ornate image of a Valkyrie, one of the "Choosers of the Slain" in Norse and Germanic mythology. The image is beautifully detailed with fine facial features, flailing hair and, of course, the winged helmet set with an old European cut diamond for a touch of sparkle. She is depicted in mid-flight with a background of swirling clouds. The interior retains the original frames and covers. The back has a period "CEC" monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Noted for both their beauty and their iron will, the Valkyries were responsible for choosing who would die a hero and who would simply die. Once the heroes were ensconced in the afterlife, the Valkyries provided them with wine, food and various other desirable services for all eternity.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the stones. This particular example has a warm appearance, with an abundance of medium-tone gold and deep crimson colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 11/16” diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 3.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.14 cts.

A lovely Victorian 10K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an embossed lion’s head. The lions mouth grasps an old mine cut diamond and the eyes are set with bright demantoid garnets. The small diamond is nice quality with bright color and good clarity. Demantoids were only discovered in Russian in 1868, so it was still a fairly novel gemstone when this locket was created. The interior retains the original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original, no dings or monograms. Dimensions: 1†diameter. Weight: 5.0 grams.

A delightful mid-Victorian worked in shades of 14K rose and green gold. The small pendant/pin depicts a green gold frog against and engraved background of rose gold cattails and other marsh plants accented with green gold leaves. The overall design is really fun. The back of the pendant/pin is gold-filled, but is original. A folding bail has been added so the piece can be worn as a pendant or as a pin. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, a tiny ding underneath one of the bottom corners. Dimensions: 11/16" x 11/16". Weight: 5.0 grams.

A heavy 18K yellow gold fob Etruscan-style fob, charm or pendant in the form of an ancient Greco-Roman amphora. The gold surfaces are covered in an ornate pattern of twisted rope and rosettes. The upper shoulders of the urn are set with a pair of cabochon citrines of dark amber color and the lower portion is set with a pair of cabochon garnets. The design is finished by a pair of rope-twist handles. The charm is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: very good; one garnet has surface abrasions and nicks to the collet setting visible on close inspection. Dimensions: 1-7/8” long. Weight: 11.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: garnet, 4.88 cts; citrine, 3.38 cts.

An extraordinarily fine pair of Larter 14K gold beanback cufflinks, the faces decorated with the image of a man with wildly flailing hair and grasping a blue sapphire in his mouth. The treatment of the hair and the choice of a blue stone suggests that the image represents the God of the Seas, Poseidon (Neptune). Alternatively, it could be Zephyrus, God of the West Wind. The sapphires have bright cornflower blue color and are have eye-clean clarity. The cufflinks are marked with Larter's hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: faces, 15/32" x 1/2". Weight: 5.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .14 ct.

An elegant Edwardian openwork 14K white gold ring set with twenty-one round diamonds graded I color, I1 to SI2 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" x 5/8". Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 3.9 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 ct.

A lovely, delicate 10K white gold filigree ring set with a buff-cut amethyst. Buff-cut stones are somewhat uncommon with their smooth domed tops and faceted bottoms, but were popular in the Edwardian era. The shank is marked "10K."

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, minute surface wear to stone visible under 10x magnification; sharp details on setting. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 7/8". Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.0 cts.

A handsome Art Deco 14K yellow gold man's ring, the stepped crown featuring a square synthetic sapphire in a millegrained collet seeeting flanked on either side by a round diamond. The diamond are graded as I/SI2. The sapphire has bright blue coloring and very good saturation. Men's rings from this period nearly always used synthetic sapphires mixed with diamonds. The interior of the shank is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 10-1/2. Weight: 6.0 grams Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.0 ct; diamond, .2 ct.

A classic late 1960s 14K gold and diamond cocktail ring in a "snowflake" design. The seventeen diamonds are set in white gold to highlight their color. The diamonds are graded as J/I1. The openness of the setting gives the ring a delicate appearance. The yellow gold shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1968. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 5/8" diameter. Finger Size: 9. Weight: 5.7 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

An interesting vintage 14K yellow gold ring featuring a heart-shaped amethyst in an ornate prong setting with a clustered accent of cultured pearls and another small amethyst at the top. The gallery under the stone echos the heart motif. The amethyst has good, even coloring and is eye-clean. The interior of the shank is engraved "Until Eternity." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: one prong lacking near the bottom point of the heart; amethyst has a 1 millimeter nick in the girdle (visible under magnification). Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 1" x 3/4". Weight: 9.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.35 cts.

An outstanding late Victorian tiger's claw brooch set in 18K yellow gold and accented with blue sapphires. Tiger claws became popular for use in jewelry following Queen Victoria's proclamation as Empress of India. Big-game hunters often brought back souvenirs of their travels and commissioned jewelry for their friends and family. Usually, the claws are set simply in gold or have an ornate Indian-style mounting, but the use of colored gemstones is extremely rare. The sapphires are of the finest quality, vividly saturated, medium tone, pure blue in color and VSI in clarity. The brooch retains its original extended pinstem. The pin could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a simple folding bail. Tested and guaranteed 18K. Origin: probably American, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16"� long x 15/16" wide�. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.83 cts.

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

A stunning Art Deco platinum bracelet, the links arranged in a zigzag pattern of bead-set round diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The overall design has the beautifully graphic, geometric appeal of the best French Art Deco jewels. The diamonds average VS clarity and G/H color. The rubies are similar quality, with medium dark, vivid red color (R6/6) and eye-clean clarity. The bracelet is masterfully constructed so it lies flat against the wrist and the links are individually hinged to provide movement that accents the glittery jewels. The bracelet is completed with its original hidden box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold (for the clasp tongue and spring mechanism) and platinum (remainder of the bracelet) marks and with a partially worn master goldsmith’s mark. The bracelet was acquired from the collection of a Parisian lady who owned many pieces of superb quality from major houses such as Cartier, Perrin, and Boucheron.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent; all original. Dimensions: 7/16†wide; 7-3/8†long. Weight: 45.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 14.91 cts; diamond, 4.20 cts.

An elegant modernist long chain necklace worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring black onyx and green nephrite jade beads. The onyx beads are carved in a melon motif, while the jade beads are left smooth. The jade has even, lightly-mottled color and good translucency. At 33”, the necklace is long enough to be worn at full length or doubled. The combination of strong colors with the yellow gold is very chic. The clasp is marked by an unidentified maker “Ste F”.

Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.

A very fine and heavy pair of French 18K gold cufflinks in the Aesthetic taste. The faces are hand-pierced and patinated in a bronze-brown shade with darker highlights in the recesses. The gold surfaces are finished with a matte texture that accents the deep coloring. The center of each face is set with a blue sapphire cabochon of fine color. The faces are joined by chains. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1885. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original. Dimenions: larger faces, 13/16” x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 8.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .72 ct.

A classic pair of 18K yellow gold and sapphire cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels. The square faces are worked in a herringbone motif surrounding sugarloaf cabochons of blue sapphire. The smaller faces are hinged for ease in putting through a cuff. The sapphires have eye-clean clarity and are graded as medium dark, strong violetish-blue (vB6/5). The cufflinks are signed “Van Cleef & Arpels” and are stamped with French gold hallmarks, the master goldsmith’s mark registered to Georges Lenfant and the copyright date 1961.

Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef, Cartier, Hermès and Mellerio. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.

Origin: France, 1961. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/32” x 13/32”. Weight: 18.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.06 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Art Nouveau pendant depicting Erato, the goddess muse of lyric poetry, by the noted French medallist Lucien Joseph René Janvier (b 1878). The goddess is depicted with a crown of laurel leaves on her flowing hair and with a cithara (ancient lyre-like instrument), her traditional emblem in the background. Janvier was particularly known for his medallist jewels and his shortened signature appears in the design just behind the goddess’ head. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4 x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 13.8 gr.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The oval faces are inlaid with onyx and mother-of-pearl in a checkerboard design surrounded by a band of opaque blue champlevé enamel. The reflective, iridescent nature of the mother-of-pearl is particularly attractive against the black onyx. The connectors are stamped with the maker’s mark for Larter & Co., one of Tiffany’s primary suppliers of better men’s jewelry throughout the 20th century. The faces are marked “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Dimenions: 3/4” x 9/16”. Weight: 18.4 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped for 18K gold and has Stern’s older hallmark.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 9/16” diameter. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.46 cts.

A wonderful pair of Victorian earrings, each in the form of two entwined snakes. One snake has a oval ruby set in the top of its head and old mine cut diamond eyes, while the other has an old mine cut diamond head and cabochon ruby eyes. The gold surfaces are realistically engraved with scales. The rubies do not show indication of heat treatment and have bright pure red coloring. The diamonds are SI1 clarity and J/K color. Entwined snakes symbolized eternal love and became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a betrothal ring in the form of snakes. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Ca. 1880, probably France. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter (excluding wires); 1-1/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 10.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .3 ct; ruby, .3 ct.

A beautiful Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K yellow gold featuring oval blue sapphire cabochons accented with laurel wreath settings and alternating floral plaque links. The gold is very finely worked. The sapphires have medium dark, strong blue color (B6/5) and eye-clean clarity. They show no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is completed with a concealed box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French gold hallmarks used outside Paris 1847-1919. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” wide; 7 -1/4” long. Weight: 11.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

A beautiful pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks enhanced with Prussian blue guilloche enamel enclosed in a circle of opaque white champlevé enamel surrounded by a border of ornately engine-turned gold. The faces a joined by removable s-shaped connectors. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted box, the interior gilt-stamped with the logo for Fontenay Smets Successeur. Each of the cufflink faces and the connectors are stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for René Forget (act 1909-21), who produced the cufflinks for the house.

Eugène Fontenay was one of the most important French jewelers of the 19th century, creating numerous pieces for the Imperial family and for other important jewelry houses such as Boucheron. When he retired in 1882, Fontenay turned his business over to his assistant, Henri Smets and its name was changed to Fontenay Smets Successeur.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 8.8 gr.

A rare pair of mid-century haute couture cufflinks by Pierre Cardin. Each face comprises a carved jadeite bead simply mounted on a gold post. The backs are slightly arched gold bars. The jadeite beads are carved in a floral pattern and are done so in a way that they are carved completely through from one side to another. It’s likely that the cufflinks were constructed from an antique strand of jadeite beads. The jade has noticeable mottling in natural, strongly saturated shades of dark, medium and light green. The translucency is fair. Magnification and absorption spectra show no signs of dye. The connectors are signed “Pierre Cardin†and are fully hallmarked with French 18K marks. Pierre Cardin designed a very limited line of fine jewels in the 1950s and 60s. They were sold only at the couturier’s main store and are quite difficult to find now. Origin: Paris, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracks or chips. Size: 1/2†diameter. Weight: 10.4 grams.

A lovely two-sided 18K gold and crystal photo locket by Parisian jeweler Charles Garnier. This style of locket became popular in the latter half of the 19th century and was revived from time to time up through the Edwardian era. NOTE: The pale green interior is used only for photographic purposes. The lockets were worn with a photograph showing from each side or with a single photograph on the front and a memento of some sort (a lock of hair or a pressed flower) on the back. The crystals are held in place with a gold border decorated in the bound-reed motif in the Louis XVI style. The bail is stamped with the maker’s mark for Garnier.

Origin: France, 1924-28. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).

A classic pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces topped with platinum. The rectangular faces have canted corners and are decorated with engine-turned engraving. The solid connectors are marked “PL ON 14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 7/16”. Weight: 4.0 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik†because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This particular example has a lot of medium-tone green. The inside of the shank is stamped “18Kâ€.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 7/8†diameter. Finger Size: 5. Weight: 5.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.12 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines. It came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank is stamped “18K”.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 13/16” diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 3.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.59 cts.

A wonderful pair of Edwardian 14K yellow gold enameled cufflinks, one face decorated with the image of an eagle and the other with an owl. This eagle and owl were often used in Victorian jewelry to depict day and night, a concept popularized with the rise of Japanese motifs in the 1870s. The faces are worked in the “basse-taille” enamel with detailed engraving of the gold base covered with a layer of enamel in a single grayish-green color. The varying depth of the carving creates complex shading in this single hue. The baton backs are worked in guilloche enamel in the same color. The quality of workmanship is superb. The cufflinks are signed “HC” with an eagle, but we do not know the maker. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent; very light wear to enamel surface visible at 10x magnification; no cracks or chips. Dimensions: faces, 3/4” x 1/2". Weight: 10.2 gr.

A wonderful pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Ravinet d Enfert, probably retailed by Hermès. Each of the faces is crafted as a different suite in a deck of cards and is finished with red or black opaque enamel. The faces are connected with chains. Each cufflink is marked for 18K and with the maker’s mark for Ravinet d’Enfert. Like most other luxury houses, Hermès did not make their own jewelry, but retailed pieces designed and manufactured by Ravinet d’Enfert to their specifications. This pair of cufflinks is not signed Hermès, but was mostly likely sold through the Paris shop.

Origin: France, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" x 1/2” Weight: 7.1 gr.

A handsome pair of double-faced cufflinks set with turquoise in 14K yellow gold. The turquoise stones have fine color and nicely arranged matrix. The bar connectors are marked “14K” and have an unidentified maker’s mark “D”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 3/8”. Weight: 8.3 gr.

A classic pair of Art Deco chrysoprase cufflinks set in 14K yellow gold. The chrysoprase have very good yellowish-green color and are cut in high-domed cabochons. The faces are connected by chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 3/8” diameter. Weight: 7.1 gr.

An outstanding Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet worked with a double buckle motif enhanced with opaque royal blue enamel and seed pearls. The buckle is further set off with a corset-lacing motif. The gold of the buckles is polished, but the bangle has the softer semi-matte finish of bloomed gold. The overall design is stately, yet not oversized. The interior is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca 1860. Condition: excellent, all original, one small pinpoint ding. Dimensions: bangle, 9/16" wide; buckle 1" wide; interior circumference, 6-3/4". Weight: 36.9 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A classic 14K yellow gold “Tree of Life” pin by Mikimoto. This design is an enduring classic available only from the higher-end Mikimoto boutiques. The pin is set with twelve cultured pearls, ranging in size from 3.99 to 5.42mm. The pearls are of exceptional AA quality, with cream body color and pronounced rose overtones. The luster is very bright and the surfaces are nearly blemish-free. The back is marked 14K and has Mikimoto’s oyster shell signature. At Mikimoto’s Place Vendome boutique in Paris, this pin is currently offered for approximately $1,500. Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 1-1/8”. Weight: 6.0 gr.

A lovely 18K yellow gold Sputnik ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set iwth round citrines, amethysts, green and pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It last came to be called "Sputnik" because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite of launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The inside of the shank has a worn hallmark. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: dome, 1" diameter. Finger Size: 6-3/4. Weight: 6.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 5.57 cts.

A classic 14K yellow gold and diamond tennis bracelet featuring 48 round diamonds separated by s-shaped gold bars. The diamonds are graded as J color, SI2 to I1 clarity. The clasp is marked "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7" long. Weight: 7.5 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’epargne enameling in a delicate floral pattern. Some lesser bracelets are enameled only on the front side, but this one has decoration in complimentary patterns to both front and back. The design is further highlighted by intricate bright-cut engraving that adds sparkle. The bracelet’s clasp mechanism has an 1870 patent date. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no dents. Dimension: 5/8” wide; 6” interior circumference. Weight: 25.3 gr.

A rare and very interesting pair of flip-up stirrup cufflinks in 14K yellow gold by Carrington. Each end of the connectors are fitted with a green nephrite jade cabochon. This style was popularized by Cartier, and this is the only we’ve seen by the great American maker, Carrington. The use of nephrite is most unusual, as well, instead of the more common onyx or dark blue sapphire. Each cufflink is stamped with Carrington’s 14K hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: faces, 7/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 7.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.48 cts.

A 14K yellow gold and platinum flexible brickwork strap and buckle ring set with round diamonds and rubies. The buckle is fully functional, so the ring can be adjusted from size 5-3/4 to 10. The style of gem-setting, with the scalloped border, is bolder than many examples. The diamonds average I/J color and SI clarity. The rubies have nicely saturated purplish-red color. Tested and guaranteed 14K and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: strap, 7/16” wide; buckle 11/16” wide. Finger Size: 5-3/4 to 10. Weight: 12.8 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; ruby, .50 ct.

A very attractive Retro 14K yellow gold and platinum ring, set with an old mine cut diamond flanked by a pair of round blue sapphires. The stones are set in very interesting mounting with a looping quality typical of Retro pieces. The diamond is I color, I1 clarity and the sapphires are graded as medium tone, moderately strong violet-Blue (vB5/4). Retro pieces set with sapphires are less common than those featuring ruby, citrine, amethyst, etc. The interior of the shank is stamped “585” for 14K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/8” x 3/4”. Finger Size: 7-1/4. Weight: 4.6 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; sapphire, .39 ct.

A very attractive and intensely-colored 18K yellow and white gold ring set with diamonds, rubies and a sapphire. The center stone, an oval mixed-cut blue sapphire, has outstanding, vividly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The rubies are of similarly high quality. The two round brilliant-cut diamonds have H color and VS2 and SI1 clarity. The shank has a squared profile and two sizing beads, which can accommodate a range of finger sizes. The style of the ring would be appropriate for either a woman or man. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown 3/8” x 3/4". Finger Size: using a mandrel, the ring measures a 6-1/2, but it fits my 8 finger perfectly; polishing out the sizing beads would increase the size a bit more. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .39 ct; ruby, .30 ct; sapphire, .29 ct.

An extremely fine pair of late Edwardian cufflinks by Krementz. Each face centers either a round blue sapphire or a round brilliant cut diamond with a frame of engraved yellow gold, surrounded by a band of opaque black champlevé enamel within an outer border of platinum worked in an acanthus leaf design. The diamonds are G color, VVS1 clarity. The sapphires have medium tone, vivid violetish-blue color (vB4/6). The connectors are stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and the backs of the faces are marked with serial numbers. Krementz made a wide variety of quality levels, and cufflinks of this sort would have been at the very top level, most likely retailed by Tiffany, Caldwell, and the like.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 12.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .26 ct; sapphire, .23 ct.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

A handsome man’s ring featuring a large lapis lazuli cabochon set in a 10K yellow gold mounting decorated at either side of the crown with a sword, shield and victor’s laurel wreath. The lapis has very good color with a bright smattering of attractive pyrite inclusions. The inside of the shank is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/4" wide at crown. Finger Size: 10. Weight: 9.8 gr.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips, each featuring a cluster of round green tourmalines surrounded by a looping double border of gold. The tourmalines are have fine, saturated color, excellent cut and excellent clarity. The earrings are marked “18K”. The clips could easily be changed to posts.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 10.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.9 cts.

A classic Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet with black taille d’épargne enameling in scrolling floral pattern. The delicate enamel design is further accented with a stippled background that adds a sense of depth.

Origin: America, ca. 1865. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, no exterior dents. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 6-1/8” interior circumference. Weight: 9.5 gr.

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold locket of modified kite shape in the Etruscan Revival style. The gold surfaces have a matte finish and are enhanced with a variety of ropetwist and beaded decorations in a sort of laced corset design. The back of the locket conceals a glass-covered compartment for a photo or hair. The locket door has a period “VBR” monogram.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no dings. Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 2-1/16” long (including jump ring). Weight: 12.9 gr.

An attractive pair of late Victorian sterling silver cufflinks decorated with Classical medallion in the Shiebler style. The medallions depict a Greco-Roman youth and maiden. The edges are irregularly beveled to suggest antiquity. The faces are connected to baton-style backs decorated a simple foliate pattern. The connectors are marked “Sterling.”

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: faces, 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 8.0 gr.

A beautiful pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces decorated in a target motif of diamonds, rubies and platinum. The cushion cut rubies have nicely-saturated bright color that contrasts well with the old mine cut diamonds at the centers. Chains connect the faces to platinum and gold torpedo backs, each set with a small rose cut diamond. The faces are marked “18” and have an unidentified European hallmark.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 8.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .08 ct; ruby, .62 ct.

An unusual 18K yellow gold pendant in the Sputnik design by H Stern. Most examples of Sputnik jewelry are set with multi-colored gemstones, but occasionally a piece turns up with a single color—in the case amethyst. The design was created in the 1950s to highlight the colored gemstones available from the Stern mines in Brazil. It later earned the nickname “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4” diameter. Weight: 2.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.51 cts.

A heavy and generously-sized Venetian Etruscan crown-shaped fob charm set with large oval green chalcedony cabochons and pearls. Exposed areas of gold are decorated with twisted wirework and rosettes. The chalcedony has very intense, slightly bluish-green coloring and the pearls have excellent luster with rose overtones. The charm is stamped with a pre-1968 Florentine goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-1/4” x 1-1/2”. Weight: 25.0 gr.