Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1032)

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet comprising foliate shaped links set with round amethysts alternating with fleur-de-lis shaped links. The amethysts have the deep violet coloring typical of the best quality Siberian material. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 19.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.22 carats

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold honeymoon pin in the form of a pearl-studded horseshoe enclosing a beautifully-enameled violet. The petals are worked in realistic shades of purple fading to pinkish-cream at the centers and the flower is accented with a bright green leaf. In the Victorian language of flowers, the violet was used to symbolize faithfulness. Combined with a horseshoe for good luck, a pin of this sort almost certainly would have served as a going-away gift. The original clasp is stamped 14K and has Krementz' hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original, no enamel damage. Size: 13/16" x 3/4". Weight: 3.3 gr.

An elegant pair of French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold earrings designed in a openwork pattern of irises. The flowers and foliage are highlighted with delicate engraving. The gold surfaces are enhanced with the soft matte texture typical of French jewels of the period. The wires appear to be replacements and are stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4" 3/4". Weight: 4.7 grams.

A fine Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Demeter (Ceres), goddess of the harvest, in 18K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes a tiara of wheat and poppies and a scythe. The wears a rose-cut diamond earring, a diamond toga clasp, and a third in her tiara. Louis Armand Rault was a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. The brooch is stamped with French 18K gold marks and also with an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The brooch could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 7.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 carat.

An interesting 10K Victorian pin in the form of a mythological creature coiled around a flame-like pillar. The creature appears to be an Ophis, a winged serpent from Greek mythology said to guard the myrrh fields of ancient Arabia. The monster grasps a seed pearl in it's jaws. The surfaces have a semi-matte bloomed finish. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1-3/16"
• Weight: 2.6 grams

A lovely early Art Nouveau 18K gold sliding locket by the acclaimed medallist Jean-Baptiste Emile Dropsy. The front cover shows a bare-shouldered woman wearing a diamond necklace and hair ornament feeding a diamond seed to a bird in mid-flight, all surrounded by a bough of chestnut leaves. The diamond accents (“habillé”) add a bit of sparkle to the design. The bird appears to be a dove, representative of “love” in Victorian symbology, while the chestnut leaves represent the sentiment “do me justice.” Taken together, the message means some along the lines of wishfulness for being treated well in love. Dropsy was an early Art Nouveau designer and his female designs tend to be a bit more teasing Gibson Girl than the more overtly sexy nudes that came along a decade or so later. The back cover is decorated with a curved spray of roses complete with thorns. Roses were also used to symbolize love, and when thorns are present, sometimes hinted that love is not without occasional pain. The interior of the locket retains its original frames and mirrored glass, which could be replaced with photos if desired. The locket is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent, all original, a small ding on the back cover visible in strong raking light
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8”
• Weight: 11.9 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .06 carat

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K gold, each link is the form of a pansy enclosed in a scrolling border. The Victorian floriography (the “language of flowers”), the pansy represented the sentiment “think of me.” Jewels with pansies were often given as a romantic gesture or by the parents of a young woman upon her marriage. The bracelet is stamped with 18K fineness marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 1/2" wide
• Weight: 16.4 grams

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old mine cut diamond. The diamond is graded as G color, SI1 clarity. Griffins in brooches are often shown in a crouching position, but in this example, the creature is standing upright in a more assertive pose. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and with the master goldsmith’s mark “Vve G” for “widow Godivier.” In rare instances, more enterprising French women were able to successfully assume control of the family business after their husbands had died.

• Origin: France, ca. 1904-1911
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 1-3/8”
• Weight: 15.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .21 carat

An exquisite Art Nouveau pendant/brooch in 18K gold with diamonds, pearls, and enamel. A lily pad, enameled in translucent shades of green, yellow, and rose centers the brooch, and is surrounded by whiplash curves of 95 round diamonds. A large diamond-set lily blossom appears at the top of the frame. All the diamond areas are set in silver-topped gold, as was the custom in French jewels of the period. The design is accented with pearls, including a pearl drop at the bottom. The piece has a brooch attachment, but also has a pair of small bails so it can be worn as a pendant. The brooch fitting, where the original French hallmarks would have been, has been replaced. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: France, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, brooch fitting replaced, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 2-3/16” (36 x 55 mm)
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.9 carats

A lovely 18K yellow gold Art Nouveau pendant depicting Erato, the goddess muse of lyric poetry, by the noted French medallist Lucien Joseph René Janvier (b 1878). The goddess is depicted with a crown of laurel leaves on her flowing hair and with a cithara (ancient lyre-like instrument), her traditional emblem in the background. Janvier was particularly known for his medallist jewels and his shortened signature appears in the design just behind the goddess’ head. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/4 x 1-1/16” (excluding bail and jump ring). Weight: 13.8 gr.

A wonderful Victorian/Art Nouveau pendant and brooch in the form of a mythological griffin grasping a diamond in its jaws. The creature’s open-winged pose is somewhat unusual for this type of jewel, as they tend to be more curled up in a more circular position. The pose, however, makes for wear as a dramatic pendant hanging from the pendant loops on each wing. The back also has a removable fitting so it can also be worn as a brooch. And finally, there is a watch hook at the bottom that could suspend a watch or a dangling gemstone. The griffin is worked with in great detail and even the back is enhanced with engraved feathers and scales. The old mine cut diamond has good color and VS1 clarity. The pin stem is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: 2-3/4” x 1-3/8”
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Weight: 18.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .33 carat

A lovely 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau bracelet comprising a series of round floral plaques, each hinged separately for comfort. The center five plaques are set with a round brilliant cut ruby at the middle of each blossom. The rubies have a strong purplish-red color that contrasts nicely with the yellow gold. Each plaque is pierced around the flower petals for added delicacy. The concealed clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 7-1/2” long; 1/2” wide. Weight: 12.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.02 cts.

A heavy French 18K gold and diamond pendant depicting a mythological griffin. The creature has the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. His open jaws clasp an old European cut diamond set in a milgrain platinum collet. The diamond is graded as I color, VS2 clarity. The griffin is surrounded by a circle of woody foliage. The back is engraved to match the texture of the front. The piece can be worn as a brooch or as a pendant suspended from the loops at the wing tips. The bottom has an additional loop that could be used to suspend an optional gemstone or pearl drop. The pendant is stamped with French 18K guarantee marks and a partial goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detai
• Dimensions: 1-9/16” x 1-3/16”
• Weight: 12.6 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A stunning Art Nouveau medallist brooch depicting Athena, goddess of wisdom and war, and patron of the arts, in 18K gold. The goddess is depicted with several of her attributes, including a dragon-topped war helmet, a wreath of olive leaves, an owl, and a drama mask representing the arts. Her helmet is studded with a star-set ruby and a band of rose-cut diamonds and she wears a necklace of rose-cut diamonds. This design was created by Louis Armand Rault, a lead designer for Boucheron 1868-75. This is once of his most iconic designs, though it is unusual in having quite so many gemstones added. Rault apparently licensed many of his designs to various makers, though the gold examples are French more often than not. This example is fully stamped with French marks for 18K and has an illegible maker's mark. The front is also marked with Rault's monogram. The pin could easily be converted to a pendant with the addition of a folding bail.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: 1" diameter.
• Weight: 5.0 grams.
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: ruby, .02 carat; diamond, .05 carat.

A stunning French 18K yellow gold and diamond pansy brooch in the Art Nouveau taste. The petals are beautifully decorated in translucent enamels shading from silvery white to cream to rose. The outer ruffled edge of each petal is outlined in small rose cut diamonds. The pansy is centered by a larger rose cut diamond of unusually good color and clarity. As is typical of 19th century French jewels, the diamonds are set in silver. Each petal is cast separately and then attached to the others with a screw mechanism. The back has a replaced pinstem and clasp. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, one 1/8" area of flaking enamel visible under magnification. Size: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4". Weight: 18.1 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.385 cts.

A lovely, and rather heavy Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin decorated with finely cast and engraved fuchsia blossoms and leaves. Even the overall inverted teardrop shape of the pin is reminiscent of the drooping profile of a fuschia. In Victorian flower language, the fuschia represented "good taste." Pin retains the original clasp and watch hook. It could also be worn as a pendant with the addition of a couple of hidden loops to the back that could be attached to a split chain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-1/16"
• Weight: 5.7 grams

A fine Art Nouveau medallist stickpin depicting Demter (“Ceres”), goddess of the harvest and the seasons, in 14K gold by Louis Rault. She is shown in profile with several of her attributes including a tiara of wheat and a scythe. Louis Armand Rault was a leading designer for Boucheron 1868-75 and this is one of his signature designs. His designs were sometimes licensed to other jewelers, hence this American 14K version. The stickpin is finished in a soft bloomed texture. The pinstem is stamped iwth Carter, Gough's 14K mark. The stickpin could easily be converted to a ring or pendant.

• Origin: America, ca 1880
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: head, 9/16” diameter, length, 2-1/2”
• Weight: 2.0 grams

A very fine 18K gold watch pin depicting a mythological griffin grasping a pearl in its mouth. The back-swept wings are bordered with rose cut diamonds set in silver. The detailing for the feathers and scales is superb, and even the reverse is realistically engraved. The design is deeply three-dimensional. Mythological subjects were particularly popular in at the beginning of the Art Nouveau period. The reverse is stamped with an 18K hallmark. The back also retains the original watch hook, clasp and pinstem. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: Europe, ca 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter
• Weight: 17.5 grams

A beautiful Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K yellow gold featuring oval blue sapphire cabochons accented with laurel wreath settings and alternating floral plaque links. The gold is very finely worked. The sapphires have medium dark, strong blue color (B6/5) and eye-clean clarity. They show no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is completed with a concealed box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French gold hallmarks used outside Paris 1847-1919. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” wide; 7 -1/4” long. Weight: 11.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

Two classical satyr masks peer out from the sides of this Art Nouveau watch fob pendant. Each snarling face is surrounded by whiplash curls of gold that rise to the top of the fob. The bottom surface is engraved with a period “JEM” monogram. The gold surface has soft matte bloomed texture characteristic of the period. The jump ring is original. Stamped “10K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 5/8” x 1-1/2”
• Weight: 3.9 grams

Very nice Art Nouveau 10K yellow gold stickpin in the form of a lady’s head. A 4-pt. old mine-cut diamond of very good quality is set at the end of her trailing hair. The surface of the gold has the “bloomed” texture characteristic of Art Nouveau jewelry.

Origin: probably American, circa 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 11/16” x 7/16”; overall length, 2-7/8”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

An important 18K yellow gold and natural semi-baroque pearl necklace in the "Lierre" ("Ivy") design by Edouard Aimé Arnould. The necklace features five foliate plaques set with pearls flanked on either side with a long- and short-link chain. The sculptural quality of the leaves is enhanced with areas of bright polish contrasting with areas in a slightly matte finish, a technique repeated on the back sides, as well. The natural pearls have excellent luster with faintly lavender/rose overtones. In Victorian symbolism, ivy represented the bonds of love in marriage. One can imagine a bride, even today, wearing such a necklace with her gown! Each section of the necklace is stamped with French 18K marks, and the central plaque is signed "Arnould".

Arnould was among the most important of the French Art Nouveau jewelers and is well listed in most of the scholarly references of the period. He opened his studio at 7, rue Racine, Paris in 1890. In 1911, a French design journal credited him with "jewels of the best taste." Around 1900, Maison Arnould published a catalog. The final photograph in this listing shows the necklace as it was listed in the catalog. It's interesting to note that the necklace was available with or without the natural pearls, and that the price nearly doubled for the pearl version. Other pages of the catalog show the "Lierre" design used for pendants, bracelet charms, hair barrettes, brooches, rings, bracelets and cufflinks.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: overall length, 16-1/2"; length of floral plaques together, 6-1/2"; center plaque, 2" x 1-3/4". Weight: 31.2 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold medallion pin depicting Hamlet’s beloved Ophelia (the brooch uses the French spelling “Ophelie”) surrounded by cattails, willow branches and waterlilies, all symbols of her watery grave after she was spurned by Hamlet. Her hair is studded with small old mine cut diamonds. The back has a hook that would have been used to suspend a watch. The back retains the original c-clasp (marked 14K) and extended pinstem. Unlike most Art Nouveau medallion pins, this example is not hollow and is heavy. This design was created by the French jeweler Emile-Séraphin Vernier (1852-1927) and was introduced at the 1908 Exposition de la Parure de la Femme in Paris.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .1 carat.

An superb 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with an ornate image of a Valkyrie, one of the "Choosers of the Slain" in Norse and Germanic mythology. The image is beautifully detailed with fine facial features, flailing hair and, of course, the winged helmet set with an old European cut diamond for a touch of sparkle. She is depicted in mid-flight with a background of swirling clouds. The interior retains the original frames and covers. The back has a period "CEC" monogram. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Noted for both their beauty and their iron will, the Valkyries were responsible for choosing who would die a hero and who would simply die. Once the heroes were ensconced in the afterlife, the Valkyries provided them with wine, food and various other desirable services for all eternity.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .03 ct.

A very fine French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold festoon necklace comprising three gold plaques exquisitely engraved in a pattern of roses and their foliage. The plaques are curved to create a "festoon" look, and are suspended from a gold chain set with natural seed pearls. The backs of the plaques are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the roses—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. Each plaque also includes stems with pronounced thorns, perhaps as a reminder of the selflessness of love. Victorian floriography adoped red roses to represent love from the myth of Aphrodite and Adonis. As she raced to the side of her fallen mortal lover, Aphrodite pricked her toe on the thorn of a white rose and her blood forever stained the flower red. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: necklace length, 16-3/4"; central plaque, 1-7/8" wide, 1-1/4" high
• Weight: 21.9 grams

An elegant Art Nouveau 18K gold, platinum and diamond pendant and brooch depicting a young woman with flowing flower-bedecked hair. She represents the Spring season, “Printemps.” Each of the flowers is centered a rose cut diamond and the maiden wears a necklace of rose cut diamonds, as well. The gold surface is bloomed for a slightly matte finish. The pendant/brooch is faintly heart-shaped and is finished along the edges with 54 rose cut diamonds set in platinum. The pinstem unscrews from the back, so the jewel can be worn as a pendant from the two pendant loops at the top corners. This design was commissioned in 1886 from the medallist Emile Séraphin Vernier by the esteemed house Fonsèque et Olive which was one of Paris’ most successful Art Nouveau jewelers.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/16 x 1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .75 carat
• Weight: 8.9 grams

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

An outstanding Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated in with an ornate pond scene incorporating rippling water, waterlilies and cattails under the watchful eye of the “man in the moon” and seed pearl stars. The scene is very original and is beautifully worked. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “GEG”. The interior retains both original frames and one of the glass covers. Marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, no dings. Size: 1-1/16” diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 7.9 grams.

A magnificent French Art Nouveau 18K gold and diamond slide locket, the front cover featuring a a fierce griffin clutching an old European cut diamond in its mouth. The beast is beautifully chased and engraved with a lot of detail in the feathers and fur. The griffin is presented against an ornately pierced Renaissance style background that would allow small peaks to show through of any portrait or photo enclosed in the locket. In Greek mythology, griffins were the guardians of the most treasured and priceless possessions, and its role on the front of a locket mimics that idea. The diamond is of equally high quality, graded as G color, VVS1 clarity. The bail has partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; a few small pinpoint dings on the back cover; no monogram. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diam (excluding bail). Weight: 14.6 gr. Approximate Diamond Weight: .24 ct.

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold locket depicting the head of a lion in 3/4 profile on the cover. His eyes are set with round faceted rubies (natural and untreated) and he grasps a 5-pt old European cut diamond in his jaws. The flowing mane is just visible behind the head and blends into the swirling border that completes the design. The plain back cover was never engraved.

• America, ca 1890
• Very good condition; a few small pinpoints on the back cover
• 1-1/8" diameter
• 6.5 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; ruby, .05 carat

A elegant brooch worked in 18K yellow gold filigree centering a round brilliant-cut amethyst surrounded by natural seed pearls. The amethyst’s collet is enhanced with millegraining, as is the remainder of the filigree work. The edge is finished with a border of wirework rosettes. The quality of workmanship is superb. Filigree of this delicacy is usually only seen in platinum. The amethyst is moderately pale with a slightly pinkish tint. The back of the pin is marked “18Kt”, and there is an indistinct mark on the original c-clasp. The brooch could easily be converted for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 1-1/8” on the diagonal; 7/8" x 7/8" on the square
• Weight: 4.7 grams
• Approximate Amethyst Weight: .68 carat.

An elegant Victorian 18K gold pendant featuring an onyx plaque centered with a seed pearl. The gold setting is ornately worked in a rope twist motif and with bright-cut engraving. Three tiny seed pearls complete the design. The pendant is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1870
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-7/32” x 5/8”
• Weight: 3.0 grams

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A very pretty pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold earrings set with pearls and seed pearls. The main bodies hang freely from the surmounts, and the bottom edges suspend free-hanging pearls, providing a lot of movement when being worn. The delicate scroll work makes a nice counterpoint to the simplicity of the pearls. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 5/8” x 1-3/4” long (from top of wire). Weight: 6.8 grams.

A lovely Victorian tortoise shell pique pendant in a heart shape. The puffed surface is worked with gold and silver inlay in an ornate floral pattern within a scalloped inlaid border. The pattern of two flowers joined together by a ribbon, and of course, the overall heart shape suggest that the pendant would have been given as a love token. The tortoise has very nice markings and translucency when held to the light.

Origin: America or England, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, no inlay loss, no chipping or cracking, (the line visible in the last image is a surface scratch only--not a crack). Size: 1-1/16” x 1-3/16”.

A nice pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold earrings, open circles enclosing ball drops star-set with emerald-cut tourmalines. The circles are finished with a pierced and beaded border along the inside edges and a delicate ropetwist motif along the outside. One tourmaline is pale green and the other is bi-colored—mostly green but with some pinkish-red areas. The earrings have a lot of movement when being worn. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1870. Condition: very good, minor dings consistent with age (mostly on reverse side). Dimensions: 13/16” x 1-5/16” long (to top of wires). Weight: 4.4 grams.

A handsome pair of double-sided cufflinks, the faces set with with oval brilliant-cut amethysts set in simple 10K yellow gold collets. The amethysts have nicely saturated, even color that would look particularly good with a white or light blue cuff. The faces are fairly large, so they are connected with a removable s-link for ease in putting them through a buttonhole. Tested and guaranteed 10K.

• Origin: probably America, ca. 1870.
• Condition: excellent; all original.
• Dimensions: larger faces, 11/16" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 19/32" x 7/16".
• Weight: 11.0 grams.
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 29.8 carats

A Victorian 18K gold locket in the shape of an elongated heart centering an enameled plaque depicting a lovebird delivering a love letter amidst a bower of roses. The plaque is outlined with an ornate border of black champleve enamel. The gold is highlighted with lightly engraved decoration which is repeated on the back. The back cover is more ornately engraved. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Probably English, ca. 1840
• Very good condition; a small ding on the left edge of the heart and minor pinpoints on the back cover
• 2" (excluding bail) x 1 1/8"
• 9.0 grams

A very fine 18K gold brooch/pendant in the form of a mythological basilisk (cockatrice) pierced through with a jeweled sword. This example is entirely handmade and finished with expertly chased scales and feathers. The quality of workmanship is superb. The wings are formed separately and arranged in a manner that gives the piece great dimensionality. The outer wing is set with a round ruby of very fine color and clarity and the eye is set with a tiny cabochon ruby. The hilt of sword is set with seed pearls with a natural oval pearl at the tip. The gold surfaces have a slightly matte Russian finish. The back retains the original clasp, large watch hook and pendant loop. Many would call this creature a griffin, but with its body of a serpent and with head and wings of a bird, it is more properly considered a basilisk or cockatrice. Such creatures were popular in the late Victorian era. There is a possibility that the back is marked with a script signature, but it is far too difficult to be certain. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: probably America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: 40 x 40 mm (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in). Weight: 13.2 gr. Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .15 ct.

An elegant pair of drop earrings featuring a cushion cut ruby surrounded by rosecut diamonds and seed pearls. The diamonds are set in platinum. The whole is finished with a pierced gallery. The rubies have nice color that contrasts beautifully with the pearls and glittery diamonds. The earrings were created from a French Victorian bar pin with the addition of new 18K wires. Tested and guaranteed 18K and platinum.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; converted from a pin
• Dimenions: drops, 3/8" diameter; length from top of wires, 13/16"
Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .22 carat; diamond, .10 carat
• Weight; 1.5 grams.

A lovely pair of French Victorian 18K gold earrings set with sapphires and rose cut diamonds. Each earring features a prong-set blue sapphire surrounded by a cluster of ten rose cut diamonds, bead-set in an engraved background. The backs are finished with a hand-pierced gallery. The sapphires and diamonds have particularly good color and clarity for the period. This style of earrings was popular in the 1850's when popular hairstyles that covered the ears rendered large earrings irrelevant. Smaller earrings, "dormeuses" ("sleepers") were worn to keep the piercings open while awaiting the inevitable return of grander styles. Stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1855.
• Condition: very good, all original, a minor repair to one earwire.
• Dimensions: 3/8" x 9/16" (from top of earwire).
• Weight: 2.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .38 carat; diamond, .10 carat.

A very finely-made Victorian memorial ring worked in 18K yellow gold and plaited hair. The ring is designed as belt, ornately decorated with open navette- and trefoil-shaped reserves, each showing the loved one’s hair. The gold surfaces are nicely engraved, and the whole is finished off with an ornate buckle centered with a escutcheon engraved with the initials “MW”. In Victorian symbology, the belt represented not only eternal love, but also strength and protection. A ring such as this, tightly surrounding the finger, would be an ever-present reminder. Buckle rings, even those with hair panels, were not always for mourning, but rather sentimental pieces. Since the band is not engraved with a name or death date in the interior, it’s quite likely that this ring was intended as a romantic symbol. The interior of the band is stamped with 18K gold marks for Chester in the year 1883. Rings of this type are much more common in lower purity gold such as 9K or 12K.

• Origin: Chester, England, 1883.
• Dimensions: band, 8/32” wide; buckle, 10/32” wide.
• Finger Size: 9-1/2.
• Weight: 3.1 grams.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; hair is perfect.

A really inventive Victorian 14K gold book chain necklace, each link in the form of a heart. The links are further enhanced with heart appliques engraved in a floral pattern. The necklace is completed with a large reeded bolt clasp that could easily hold multiple pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent
Dimensions: 18-3/4” long
• Weight: 32.1 grams

A large friendship token pendant or charm featuring a hand holding a gem-set bouquet. The design is presented against a stippled background outlined with an engraved border. The bouquet is set with a cabochon ruby, an emerald cut emerald and a brilliant cut sapphire. Jewelry featuring a hand and flower motif were usually given as tokens of affection or friendship in the Victorian era. The back is stamped “18K.”

• America, ca. 1900
• Excellent condition
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .08 carat; emerald, .05 carat; sapphire, .05 carat.
• Weight: 7.8 grams.

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

A fine shakudo stickpin mounted in 18K yellow gold enhanced with a ropetwist border. The shakudo plaque represents a geisha formally dressed in a gold-flowered kimono and with an elaborate hairdo complete with ribbons and blossoms. Shakudo elements such as these were transformed by European and American jewelers after the opening of Japan to Western trade in the 1850s. The mounting is 18K (tested and guaranteed) and the pinstem is 14K (marked).

Origin: Japan & America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 15/32”; overall length, 3”. Weight: 5.0 grams.

An exceptionally fine French 18K yellow gold ring in the form of a lion's head flanked by a pair of winged griffins that coil around the finger. The lion grasps a round blue sapphire it its jaws. The sapphire has rich coloring and is deeply saturated. The design is entirely hand-chased and pierced. The ring is signed, but is only partly legible "CU**R." It is also marked with the master goldsmith's stamp "AP" and with the French 18K mark. Mythological subjects such a griffins were very popular in French jewelry just before the onset of the Art Nouveau era, and this is very fine example.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Finger Size: 9-1/2. Dimensions: 9/16" wide at front, tapering to 1/4" at back. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .36 ct. Weight 11.4 gr.

A classic late Victorian gold padlock clasp. These were used mostly for bracelets but could also be used with necklaces. Today, they are often worn as charms or in their original function. In Victorian jewelry symbolism, padlocks represented the unbreakable bonds of love. The padlock with stamped with the English 9ct mark, but the jump tests as 14K gold.

• Origin: England, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 13/16” (1-1/16” with jump ring)
• Weight: 2.0 grams

Excellent pair of Victorian 18K yellow gold drop earrings with Mediterranean coral beads. The earrings are quite heavy and are very well constructed with closed backs that make them attractive from behind, as well. The coral has the nice, even coloring of fine Mediterranean coral from the coast of Italy. The original earwires have been replaced with screwbacks, but because of the way the earrings are constructed, there were no alterations to the earrings themselves. They could easily be re-converted to wires. The gold has a slightly rosy color that complements the coral nicely. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: America, circa 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-3/8” x 11/16”. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and crystal “porte-photo” (photo locket), the gold rim accented with small blue sapphires. The bail is attached to a screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand for access to the inside of the locket. Porte-photos were often used to display a “public” photo one side and a more private keepsake on the other. They’re usually very simple; a design of this type is uncommon. These pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The bail is stamped with French 18K marks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter (excluding bail).

A nice Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with a three-dimensional Scottish halberd (a medieval battle axe) applique set with rose cut diamonds and a Persian turquoise cabochon. The Scottish halberd was a distinctive sort of battle axe developed in Scotland in the late 16th century which eventually came to be associated with ceremonial use by the Scottish nobility. During Queen Victoria’s reign, everything Scottish became very popular, and ancient designs such as this appeared in fashionable jewelry. This is quite an unusual design for a locket and it very rare. The locket retains its original frames and glass covers. The back cover has a period three-letter monogram “LML” (?). Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 7.0 grams.

A nice 14K yellow gold locket, the front cover decorated with an ornate scene of two hunting hounds sniffing through tall grass for their prey. A picket fence can be seen in the background and then a sky lightly engraved with clouds and a sun or moon represented by a star-set old mine cut diamond. The back of the locket has a nice 3-letter monogram (“MAC”) original to the period. The interior retains its original frame inserts. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-1/16” diameter, excluding bail. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat.

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

A classic Victorian fancy double belcher chain link necklace composed of interlocking fluted and ropetwist links in 14K gold. The fluted links enhances the reflections in the gold, so they offer a more reflective quality that contrasts nicely with the ropetwist links. The chain is substantial enough to be worn alone or suspending a quite large pendant or locket, and the links are open enough that they can suspend multiple smaller pendants or charms. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1890.
• Dimensions: 21” long.
• Weight: 29.5 grams.
• Condition: excellent, no repairs.

A lovely Victorian starburst pendant worked in 14K yellow gold and set with an old mine cut diamond at the center. Stars in Victorian jewelry symbolized guidance and wisdom. Most Victorian starbursts have straight rays, but the Art Nouveau-influenced curlicue design of this example makes it especially nice. The diamond at the center has good brilliance, I/J color and VS1 clarity. The pendant retains the original brooch fitting, as well, but it is very well hidden when being worn as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K (the newer bail is marked 10K).

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/8” diameter
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .35 carat
• Weight: 4.3 grams

A nice late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on alternating links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a bamboo-shaped t-bar. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 875 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 17-1/2”
• Weight: 21.0 grams

A nicely detailed 14K gold anchor pendant. In Victorian jewelry, the anchor was meant to convey a sense of hope, security and steadfastness. This classic example is enhanced with a detailed spiral or rope and sharp prongs. The piece is large enough to wear as a pendant or could be used as a charm on a chunky bracelet. Stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 11/16” x 1-1/8 (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 1.9 grams

Wonderful French 18K gold stickpin in the form of a dragon. The detail is incredible. Raised up on his hind legs, with his wings unfurled, the dragon is exhaling tongues of flame. His tail is curled around several times before circling completely around the body to form the circular outline of the stickpin's head. The texture of the feathery wings and scaly body is superb. The back is marked with French hallmarks for 18K gold and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: head, 9/16" diameter; overall length, 3-1/16". Weight: 3.5 grams.

A very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold chain necklace made of fancy open-work links with diamond plaque appliques alternating with reeded circular links. The reeded surfaces gift the gold a soft, shimmering appearance rather highly reflective. The large spring ring can be used simply as a clasp or to suspend and locket or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.

Swiss Silver Niello & Gilt Silver Watch Chain An excellent late Victorian silver watch chain with striped niello decoration on the double bar links, alternating with silver gilt curb links. The chain is finished at one end with a dog clip and at the other with a large niello bolt. The chain is stamped with the Swiss mark for 800 silver used 1882-1934.

• Origin: Switzerland, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, niello intact
• Length: 16-1/4”
• Weight: 15.2 grams