Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A lovely Art Nouveau honeymoon pin in 14K yellow gold featuring an enameled violet centered with a small old European cut diamond. The petals are are worked in delicate shades of purple, cream marroon and are finished with repousse gold borders frequently sometimes seen in Larter enamels. In the Victorian flower language, the combination of a crescent moon shape with a flower was suggestive of the word "honeymoon." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for a new bride. The back is stamped with Larter's 14K hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss
• Dimensions: 1-1/16" x 9/16"
• Weight: 2.0 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .03 carat

A sweet good luck charm in the form of a 14K gold wishbone entwined with a branch of bright blue enameled forget-me-nots. In Victorian flower language, forget-me-nots represented remembrance. Combined with the wishbone, a piece such of this might have been given as a farewell gift. Stamped with the maker's mark for Winthrop Manufacturing Co (Attleboro, MA).

NOTE: The pendant is shown with a 16" 14K gold chain available for an additional $125.

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: perfect enamel; original pinstem and clasp were removed and replaced with a hidden bail by our jeweler.
• Dimensions: 1-5/8" x 1/2".
• Weight:2.7 grams.

A delicate Art Nouveau 10K gold pin featuring a pansy decorated with translucent violet, pink and cream enameled. The flower center and a bud are set with small seed pearls. The brooch retains its original pinstem and clasp stamped "10K." In Victorian flower language, the pansy conveyed the meaning "Think of me." Small pins such as this were popular gifts for new brides.

• Origin: America, ca 1910
• Condition: very good; a small enamel flake to the tip of one petal (superficial only and does not affect the color)
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 1-1/8"
• Weight 2.5 grams.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

An elegant Edwardian bracelet worked in fancy curly-cued gold links, each with a slash of platinum-set rose cut diamonds for a little added sparkle. A collet-set ruby appears between each of the links. The rubies have nice color and are unheated. The links are formed loosely, so the bracelet has nice movement when being worn. The tongue of the concealed clasp is stamped with French 18K gold and platinum hallmarks and with an illegible master goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1915
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: length, 6-3/4”; width, 5/16”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 1.2 carats; diamond, .20 carat
• Weight: 14.5 grams

A stunning pair of late Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold floral earrings, the petals enhanced with iridescent enamel and the centers set with clusters of blue sapphires. The quality of the enamel, shading from a medium blue to a pale greenish-yellow is superb. The gold surfaces underneath the enamel are delicately engraved to represent the veining and surface textures of real flower petals. The use of iridescent enamels and the quality of workmanship suggests one of the better Newark workshops as the likely maker. The round sapphires have vivid blue coloring and are set nicely above the surrounding petals to create a very three-dimensional appearance. The earrings probably originally had wire, but now have omega-clips. The could easily be returned to wire, or have posts added. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage; omega clips replacing original wires. Size: 1-1/8” diameter. Weight: 13.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .84 carat.

An elegant Edwardian heart-shaped locket worked in 18K yellow gold. The front cover is enhanced with a small rose cut diamond and three small no-heat rubies set in a stylized floral pattern with engraved stems. The decoration is reminiscent of Imperial Russian jewels of the era, but the locket bears French gold hallmarks and is marked “Déposé” indicating that the design had a copyright of sorts. The edges of both the front a back covers are finished with banded reeding décor. The chain is old, possibly original, but is gold-filled.

• Origin: France, ca. 1910
• Condition: excellent, a couple of tiny pinpoints on the back cover
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16” excluding jump ring; chain, 18” long
• Weight: 2.1 grams (without chain)

A gorgeous Art Nouveau festoon necklace worked in 14K yellow gold. The central floral plaque is delicately enameled in translucent iridescent shades of pink, lemon and green. Small round and baroque seed pearls accent the design. Collet-set deep purple oval cut amethysts flank either side of the blossom and a freshwater pearl drop is suspended from the bottom. A third amethyst is suspended just above the floral plaque. The trace link chain is studded with baroque pearls accenting the places where chain festoons are attached. Tested and guaranteed 14K. Unsigned, but certainly the work of Newark shop such as Larter, Krementz, Bippart, etc.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.11 cts.

A lovely 18K yellow gold locket, the front cover enhanced with ornate engine-turned engraving in a sunburst pattern with laurel leaf borders. The front cover is centered with a blue sapphire cabochon with rich coloring. The locket’s back cover is more simply decorated with engine-turned stripes. Even the interior edges, which are hidden from view, are engraved in a foliate pattern. The locket is suspended from its original laurel leaf jump ring that matches the border of the front cover. The interior retains both of the original portrait frames. The overall style is typical of French or Russian jewelry at the end of the 19th century, but it is unmarked. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original, sharp detail. Dimensions: 1-3/16” diameter (excluding jump ring). Approximate Sapphire Weight: .24 cts. Weight: 10.3 gr.

A classic pave pearl puffed heart pendant and brooch worked in 10K yellow gold. The back retains the original findings including a watch hook. Marked with Larter’s hallmark and “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7/8” (excluding bail)
• Weight: 6.3 grams

A stunning late Victorian or Edwardian reverse carved crystal depicting a collie dog. The crystal is set in an alternating border of French cut rubies and rose cut diamonds. Following the practice of the period, the rubies are set in gold, whereas the diamonds are set in platinum--a technique used to enhance the colors of the stones. The crystal is expertly carved and painted with tremendous depth and detail. Reverse carved crystals are most often set in plain gold mountings and it is quite difficult to find examples set with gemstones. The back of the pin retains its original extended pinstem and c-clasp.

Origin: England, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no scratches to crystal. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 12.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .50 ct; ruby, 1.30 cts.

A curving band of old European, transitional and single-cut diamonds sparkle in the yellow gold ribbon top of this Edwardian hinged bangle bracelet. The larger diamonds are clasped in buttercup settings, while the smaller ones are bead-set with milgrain accents. The diamonds are good quality, averaging J color and SI1 clarity. The back of the bracelet has a caged structure that mimics the openness of the front. The clasp is stamped 14K.

America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 5/8" wide at top tapering to 1/4" at back; fits a 6-5/8" wrist.
• Weight: 26.4 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.47 carats.

A delicate 14K gold crescent pin worked as a bough of enameled laurel leaves bound at the middle with a golden ribbon. The rich green leaves are punctuated with small seed pearls. The back of the pin is stamped for 14K gold and has the mark for H.A. Kirby of Providence, RI.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very minor flakes to enamel when viewed under 10x magnification. Dimensions: 1-7/8" long. Weight: 3.1 grams.

An elegant round bangle bracelet in 14K gold, the front set with three sapphires separated by natural baroque pearls. The gold is delicately pierced in a lattice pattern at the back and sides and in a floral pattern at the front. The sapphires have a very attractive violetish-blue color. Stamped with Alling’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, ca 1905
• Condition: very good, a small ding on the back side
• Dimensions: width 1/4" tapering to 6/32” at the back; circumference, 7.87”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, .51 carat
• Weight: 8.0 grams

A wonderfully detailed mallard duck, worked in multicolored 15K gold and green enamel flies across the finger in this Edwardian stickpin conversion ring. The feathers are beautifully worked in yellow, rose and green gold as well as a touch of platinum. The shank is 14K.

• Original stickpin, circa 1900
• Excellent condition
• 13/16" x 1/2"
• Size 7
• 2.3 grams

A handsome pheasant struts his stuff in this expertly-carved and painted Essex reverse crystal set in 14K yellow gold. The bird is presented against a landscape subtly-colored foliage and mounted on a rail fence setting. Animal jewelry featuring crystals as large as this are increasingly difficult to find. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1910.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no water damage.
• Dimensions: 2-1/4” x 1”.
• Weight: 15.6 grams.

An elegant solid bangle bracelet worked in 14K yellow gold. The bangle has pierced foliate motif, and is set with sapphires and diamonds. Three round sapphires interspersed with four single-cut diamonds are set in platinum at the front of the bangle, and three additional sapphire stations are at the back. The stones have vibrant pure blue coloring and are unheated, likely from Ceylon. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 3/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-5/8”
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.19 carats; diamond, .04 carat
• Weight: 9.4 grams

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with round brilliant cut amethysts in collet settings. The necklace is completed with a dog clip clasp. The chain can be worn at is full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 16.4 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 5.6 carats

A nice Victorian 18K gold locket, the front cover featuring a lioness shown in profile. She is enhanced with a bright emerald eye and grasps an old mine cut diamond in her mouth. The back is engraved with a period three-letter monogram. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Dimensions: 1" diameter
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail on the lion; two pinpoint dings on the back cover
• Weight: 8.7 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .05 carat

A delightful Chinese antique carved agate pendant enhanced with its original knotted silk cord and Type A (untreated) green jadeite bead, finished with a 14K yellow gold bail. The carving represents a male elder seated atop a fish and holding a pair of plums over his shoulder. The carving makes nice use of the agate's natural coloring to represent the fish and fruit. In Chinese symbology, the fish is a sign of wealth and abundance, and the plum is a sign for longevity. The jadeite bead is semi-translucent, with moderate mottling and medium grain. This pendant was salvaged from ca 1900 Chinese necklace that was far too worn to repair. In both the original necklace and in this pendant, the carving is designed to hang upside down so that it appears right-side-up when the wearer holds the pendant and raises it up in her own hand.

Origin: China, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, very light wear along edges consistent with age. Dimensions: 7/8" wide; 1-11/16" long from top of bail.

NOTE: Other pieces created from the original antique necklace include Items #1344595, 1350547, and 1350538.

A delicate Edwardian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet, the front half decorated with finely pierced platinum leafs nestled between collet-set square-cut blue sapphires. The stones have medium-light tone violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with platinum leaves. The double-gallery style of the back of the bracelet maintains the delicate appearance of the bangle. The interior is stamped with un unidentified American maker’s mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/4" wide, 7” interior circumference. Weight: 13.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.4 cts.

A gorgeous and generously sized Art Nouveau 14K gold and diamond locket by Carter, Gough & Co. The cover features a maiden emerging from a bouquet of flowers. The choice of flowers in the bouquet sends a very specific hidden meaning in Victorian floral symbolism. The iris on the left means, "I have a message for you," and the jonquil on the right means, "I desire a return of affection." The flowers and the maiden's hair are studded with six old mine cut diamonds. The background is worked in a stippled pattern that contrasts beautifully with the hand-chased design. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram "MCR". The interior retains the original frame and is engraved "June 30, 1903." The interior is stamped with Carter, Gough's hallmark.

• America, 1903
• 1-1/2" diameter (excluding the bail and jump ring)
• 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A wonderful late Victorian 14K yellow gold animal pin in the form of an English bulldog. The details are finely worked right down to the studded dog collar. The back is marked 14K and retains the original pinstem and clasp. A small folding bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original; sharp detail. Dimensions: 7/8" x 11/16". Weight: 6.2 gr.

A very fine 14K multicolored gold pendant/pin in the form of a ruffled pansy. Each of the petals is subtly sahded from rose gold at the edges through shades of yellow and finally, to a grayish gold (possibly platinum) where the petals join. The surface is finished with a lightly stippled texture. The center of the flower is set with a round blue sapphire and three of the petals are set with old mine cut diamond "dew drops". The diamonds are small, but are very good quality (F/VVS1) and sapphire has rich violetish-blue coloring. The reverse retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is marked "Pat." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1" x 1-1/8". Weight: 6.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: sapphire .39 carat; diamond, .08 carat.

You know you'll live a life of good luck when you're wearing this 14K gold upturned horseshoe pendant necklace. The horseshoe is adorned with blue enameled forget-me-nots, flowers that conveyed exactly that meaning in the Victorian language of flowers. Originally a brooch, the horseshoe has been converted to a pendant with the addition of a delicate 14K gold split cable chain.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: converted from a brooch; excellent enamel.
• Dimensions: pendant, 7/8" x 7/8"; overall necklace length, 16".
• Weight: 3.0 grams.

A classic Art Nouveau brooch / pendant decorated with lush pale blue, medium blue, cream, and yellow matte enamels. The flower is centered with a round diamond. The pin is unmarked but is certainly by one of the Newark jewelers. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: 7/8” x 7/8”
• Weight: 4.3 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .02 carat.

A very fine 14K yellow gold Art Nouveau locket, the cover decorated with a beautifully detailed depiction of the Viking god Odin, father of all gods and men. He is traditionally depicted wearing a helmet enhanced with horns and feathered wings. The locket retains its original glass insert. The back was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 15/16” diameter.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant in 14K yellow gold by Bippart, Griscom & Osborn. The curving gold frame encloses a flower with petals made from baroque Mississippi River pearls centering a bezel-set round blue sapphire. Another freshwater pearl hangs from the bottom of the pendant. The gold surfaces have a softly bloomed texture. The bail is original and is marked by Bippart.

• Origin: America, ca 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: pendant, 2-1/2" x 5/8"; chain 15"
• Weight: 5.6 grams
• Approximate Sapphire Weight: .11 carat

An elegant very early Edwardian 14K yellow gold ring of navette shape set with an interesting spotted or moss agate cabochon. The agate's body color is a translucent goldish-gray color with darker markings that resemble a tiger's stripes. The gold setting is delicately enhanced with bright-cut engraving. The very long navette shape is very flattering to the finger. The interior of the shank is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Ring Size: 8. Dimensions: crown 7/16" x 1-1/8". Weight: 5.2 gr.

A lovely Art Nouveau locket worked in 14K yellow gold depicting a poppy blossom and buds. In the Victorian language of flowers, the red poppy represented "consolation," certainly an apt choice for a locket that might hold a portrait. The interior of the locket retains both of the original frames and glass covers. The jump ring is marked "10K", but the locket is tested and guaranteed as 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail; the back cover appears to have had a monogram removed. Dimensions: 1-1/8" diameter. Weight: 6.9 gr.

14K gold Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a flower set with a blue sapphire center and a seed pearl bud enclosed within a heart-shaped frame of foliage. The gold has a slightly greenish cast and is engraved to suggest the velvety leaves. Originally a brooch, the pendant now hangs on a 14K gold split chain as an elegant necklace. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1" x 1"; necklace length, 18-3/4".
• Weight: 4.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: .06 carat.

A rare Art Nouveau brooch worked in 18K gold depicting Eros, the Greek god of love and harmony. “Amor” is the Latin version of his name, and English-speakers usually refer to him as “Cupid.” He is shown here with a quiver of arrows used to inflame love in the hearts of his targets. The quiver’s strap is set with small rose cut diamonds for an added bit of sparkle. The name “Amor” is included in the design to the left of Amor’s head. The brooch is signed “F Vernon” for Frédéric-Charles-Victor de Vernon, a noted French medallist and sculptor. This particular design was first exhibited by Vernon at the 1903 Paris Salon. The back is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1903
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/32” diameter
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

A delightful Art Nouveau daisy pendant/pin, the petals formed from long Mississippi river pearls arranged around a textured gold disc studded with a rich reddish-orange citrine. The pearls have very attractive lustre. The back retains the original folding bail and pinstem/clasp, and is stamped with the mark for Charles S. Crossman & Co.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Citrine Weight: .43 carat.

A very pretty Art Nouveau honeymoon pin worked in 10K yellow gold enhanced with enamel and seed pearls. The iris blossom is beautifully decorated in translucent shades of purple and greenish-yellow enamel and is centered by a small seed pearl. The flower appears against a crescent moon studded with graduated-size seed pearls. In the Victorian language of flowers, these elements were understood to symbolize “honey” (the flower) and “moon” (the crescent), thus representing “honeymoon”. These small pins were often given by grooms to their new brides as a wedding gift. For some reason, irises are somewhat uncommon in enameled jewelry. Though unsigned, the workmanship and style of this example suggests a Newark maker. The original clasp is marked “10K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Size: 7/8” x 13/16”. Weight: 2.3 grams.

A lovely 14K gold Edwardian long chain set at regular intervals with oval amethysts in collet settings. The chain can be worn at its full 52-1/2” length, our doubled and worn at 26-1/4”. The amethysts have excellent color and brilliance. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 52-1/2” long
• Weight: 14.1 grams
• Approximate Total Amethyst Weight: 13.9 carats

An extremely rare and very fine Imperial Russian gold and diamond anchor brooch by Viktor (Victor) Aarne. The anchor is surmounted with the Imperial Russian crown and the cypher of Czar Nicholas II is superimposed over the stem of the anchor. The brooch is set throughout with old mine and rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver over gold, as was typical of Russian jewels of the period. The quality of piercing and millgraining indicate hand fabrication. Certain portions of the design, notably the crossbar of the anchor, the horizontal element of the cyrillic letter "N" and the numerals representing "II" are worked only in yellow gold as a contrast to the surrounding surfaces. THe principal diamonds average J color and SI1 clarity. A jewel of this quality, bearing the Imperial cypher, would certainly have been given as a gift by the Imperial family. The pinstem is marked for 56 zlotniks (14K) and bears the workmaster's mark used by Johann Viktor ( Johan Victor) Aarne during his St. Petersburg period, 1891-1904.

Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.