Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1615)

A very rare pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks designed by Soren Georg Jensen for the firm founded by his father, Georg Jensen. Designed in 1962, during his first year as the firm's artistic director, these cufflinks are a clear example of the stripped-down, modernist sculptural direction the younger Jensen wanted to pursue. Jensen's gold jewelry is considerably rarer than silver, and was often retailed by Jensen at ten times the price of the same design in silver. The cufflinks are appropriately hallmarked and have the design number "1091".

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, no monogram. Size: 11/16" diameter. Weight: 17.4 grams.

An extraordinary modernist fringe necklace in 18K yellow gold and green tourmaline by the famed Brazilian modernist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre ("free form") gemstones in 1948, and the technique became his signature. Most often, he used colorful stones native to Brazil—tourmalines, amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, etc. The tourmalines in this necklace are of the finest quality, with pure deep green coloring that contrasts beautifully with the gold mounting. Burle Marx never used pre-cast elements in his jewelry, and each piece was completely raised by hand from a gold ingot. All the plain gold links are accented with a brushed texture, and the links set with tourmalines have a contrasting florentined finish. The back of the clasp is stamped with Burle Marx's signature and 18K marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for the empresses of Japan and Iran, the queen of Denmark, and the prime minister of India, among others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Mergle Oberon.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 2-1/16" wide from the necklace line to the bottom of the central drop; overall necklace length, 16" (our jeweler can hand-make additional matching links to achieve your desired overall length.) Weight: 81.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 57.58 cts.

NOTE: We also have a matching ring acquired from the same source (Item #1350545).

An extremely rare 18K yellow gold bracelet in the Sputnik design by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, aquamarines, citrines, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines and garnets. The design was created in the 1950s to showcase the range of colored gemstones available from Stern’s mines in Brazil. It later came to be called “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance that relies on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. The design was made in earrings, pendants, charms, rings, brooches and bracelets, with bracelets being by far the most uncommon. Marked 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, needs a new safety catch. Dimensions: 5/8” wide; 7-1/4” long. Weight: 21.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 8.44 carats.

A very rare pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with boulder opal cabochons. The opals have much finer play of color than is typical of boulder opal, with a preponderance of blue and green that almost seems to glow from within. The contrast with the matte brown of the host matrix is very attractive. The opals are set collet-set in simple frames finished with ropetwist borders. The outer dimensions of the faces vary in size by 1/32", suggesting that the mountings were custom-made for stones already in the original owner's collection. One opal is a little narrower and higher, while the other is broader and flatter. When being worn, of course, the size difference is unnoticeable. The quality of the opals suggests Lightning Ridge, Australia as the most likely source.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" and 16/32". Weight: 6.4 gr.

An extremely heavy pair of double-sided 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the face set with cabochon blue sapphires. Each circular face is fashioned with deeply-incised concentric rings centering the sapphires. The sapphires are of very fine quality, graded as medium-dark vivid blue (B6/7). The connectors are marked for 18K.

Ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: 17/32" diameter. Weight: 18.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .60 ct.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the round faces with engine-turned engraving in a swag pattern around cornflower-blue sapphires. The gold has a very nice dark, rich patina. The connectors are marked by Wordley, Allsopp & Bliss and are stamped for 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 12.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A very rare early pair of double-sided cufflinks, the navette-shaped faces centered with Persian turquoise cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds set in silver. The faces are joined with 15K yellow gold chains. Diamonds in Georgian jewelry are nearly always set in silver, as they are in this case. The silver’s light color brings out the glitter of the rose cut diamonds and also nicely accents the rich color of the turquoise. The diamonds are set in an open back “a jour” setting that was developed toward the end of the 18th century, but was not commonly used until the early Victorian era. The extra-long chains suggest that the cufflinks were probably intended for use on the cuffs of a coat, rather than a shirt, to accommodate the thick folds of velvet or brocade fabric. Tested and guaranteed 15K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 1/2" x 5/16”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .80 carat; turquoise, 3.96 cts.

A fine 18K yellow gold and multi-stone Sputnik ring by H. Stern. This classic modernist design features a golden dome studded with 19 variously colored gemstones including green tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, aquamarine and spessartite garnet. Each piece of Sputnik jewelry has a unique appearance depending on the color combinations and arrangement of the gemstones. This particular example is a little less haphazard than some and has a more symmetrical appearance (notice the alternating light and dark colored stones in the first ring out from the center stone and the placement of the citrines and orangy spessartite garnets always at an angle from each other in the outer rows). The design was created specifically to show off the range of colored stones mined in Stern’s native Brazil, but it quickly came to be known as “Sputnik” because of its resemblance to the 1960’s soviet satellite. The inside of the shank is marked with a Stern mark and “750” for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 8-1/4. Size: 7/8” diameter; 1/2" high. Weight: 4.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.18 cts (amethyst, .59; aquamarine, 1.2; citrine, .78; green tourmaline, .68; spessartite garnet, .93).

A handsome set of 14K yellow gold, platinum, pearl and mother-of-pearl cufflinks and shirt studs in a classic style. Each octagonal face is edged with a platinum border engraved in a floral design. The rich coloring of the mother-of-pearl contrasts beautifully with the platinum. Each piece is marked “14K” and has Larter’s manufacturer’s mark. The dress set is presented in its original fitted box, with the inside of the lid inscribed “J. E. Caldwell & Co./Philadelphia”. Larter was one of the most important American manufacturing jewelers and produced many pieces for elite stores such as Caldwell, Tiffany, and Bailey, Banks & Biddle.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter. Weight: 9.1 grams.

A fabulous Art Deco platinum brooch in the form of a carved hardstone Scottish Terrier sitting atop a diamond-encrusted platform surrounded by a leash as a sort of diamond-set halo. The dog is finely carved and enhanced with a matte finish. The 114 old mine and single-cut diamonds average H color and SI1 clarity. The back of the pin is finished with a double clip. The reverse is engraved "To Mama 6-8-36". The bottom edge of the gallery has what appears to be a heavily worn signature. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: Europe, probably Belgium, 1936. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-3/8" x 1". Weight: 15.4 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.85 carats.

A handsome pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Georg Jensen. The rectangular faces are severely designed in the Art Deco style, with only a series of parallel raised bands as decoration. The solid connectors are attached to hinged oval backs. The cufflinks are marked with the pattern number 80 and bear post-1945 Jensen hallmarks.

Origin: Denmark, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/16" x 3/8". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A delightful pair of cufflinks worked in 14K yellow, rose and green gold. Each cufflink depicts a woodland scene with an owl in a tree, a rabbit standing on his hind legs, various flowers and plants, and a moonlight starry sky. The combination of an owl along with a rabbit represents the concept of "night" and "day." These cufflinks were originally cuff buttons and were converted to cufflinks using the original parts. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1860. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16" diameter. Weight: 12.4 grams.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold barbell cufflinks, the ends formed from lapis spheres carved in a traditional braided knot pattern. The gold connectors are decorated with a twist motif. The lapis has a evenly-distributed dark violetish-blue color. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/8” long; beads, 11mm diameter. Weight: 9.0 gr.

An extremely attractive pair of 14K white gold cufflinks by Carrington. Each round face is set with a mother-of-pearl disc engraved in a laurel wreath pattern, surrounding a center round diamond and bordered with 24 rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are very good quality, graded as I/J color and SI2 clarity. The faces are attached by chains to heavy torpedo backs. The back of each face is stamped with Carrington’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 16 mm (5/8 in) diameter. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct. Weight: 12.0 gr.

NOTE: We also have a set of three shirt studs by Krementz (Item #1233392) that, although not a perfect match to the cufflinks, can easily be worn with them as a dress set. In fact, we originally acquired the cufflinks and studs as a set.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved bi-color watermelon tourmaline in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The colors of the tourmaline are nicely contrasting an dhighly saturated. The gold surfaces are decorated with the fine florentined engraving typical of Marx's pieces. The interior of the shank is signed "Burle Marx/18K" and "Ind Bras/GB/791".

Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favorite jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 6-1/2. Dimensions: crown, 19 x 29 mm (11/16 x 1-1/8 in); shank tapers to 4 mm (5/32 in) at the back. Weight: 16.1 gr.

A superb early Edwardian “style guirlande” platinum, gold, diamond, opal and pearl necklace. The fine platinum chain suspends a platinum and gold pendant centering a beautiful oval opal surrounded by an ornate swagged garland of diamonds punctuated with creamy natural pearls. The opal has strong and even play-of-color with strong flashes of bright green, a bit of blue and pale orange. The single cut and old European diamonds have beautiful color (F-H) and have clarity ranging from SI1 to I1. The center drop is articulated in three places, allowing lots of movement when being worn. The quality of workmanship is very fine, with completely hand-sawed openwork behind the stones, fine millegraining, and precise placement of stones. The back has a heavily worn maker’s mark, but the partial serial number would indicate a quality maker. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original except the spring clasp which is 14K white gold instead of platinum. Size: necklace, 18-3/16” long; pendant, 2-7/8”W x 2-1/4”L. Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.01 cts; diamond, 1.61 cts.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks, the faces set with ornately carved amethyst cabochons surrounded by borders of rose cut diamonds and centering collet-set single cut diamonds. The borders of diamonds are set in millgrained platinum. The carving on the amethysts is finely done and the surfaces have a matte finish that gives the stones a deep velvety appearance. The faces are connected with chains to gold lozenge-shaped backs centering round cut diamonds. All the diamonds have bright color and good clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 1/2"; backs, 7/8” x 5/16”. Weight: 10.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.14 carats, amethyst, 9.48 carats.

A very handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co., Paris. The square front faces and rectangular back faces are worked in a fine 3-over-1 basket weave pattern. The deep recesses of the pattern were only lightly polished to heighten the three-dimensional quality of the design. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are signed "Tiffany & Co./France/Or 18K" and have the jeweler's inventory numbers. They are also marked with full French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 13x13mm; back faces, 7.5x12.5mm. Weight: 14.3 gr.