Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

An extraordinarily fine pair of late Victorian or early Edwardian 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces in the form of navette-shaped buttons carved from crystal opal. The faces are accented with silver “stitches”, each accented with a five small rose cut diamonds. The opals have clear body color and the play-of-color is predominantly shades of green and blue with occasional flecks of orangy-red. The faces are connected by gold chains to gold torpedo backs. The use of carved opal as a button motif is most unusual, as is the use of crystal open rather than the more common white opal. The overall effect is subtle and very sophisticated. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 5/16”. Weight: 4.8 gr.

A very nice 18K yellow gold Sputnik style ring by H Stern. The dome is bezel-set with round citrines, amethysts, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, garnets and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite lanched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance that depends on the particular selection and placement of the gemstones. This example tends toward the pastel side with a fairly large number of aquamarines and lighter-toned amethysts. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, one amethyst has a small chip on the surface only visible upon careful examination with a 10x loupe. Finger Size: 7-1/2. Dimensions: dome diameter, 19 mm (3/4 in). Weight: 4.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.90 cts.

A delightful Retro 14K yellow and rose gold lucky four-leaf clover pin by Tiffany & Co. In the typical Retro style, the gold surfaces are large and mostly unadorned except for simple veining along the middle of the clover leaves. The back retains the original “fur clip” allowing the pin to be worn without actually piercing a garment’s fabric. The back is marked “14K Tiffany & Co.”.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 1-5/16”. Weight: 7.9 gr.

An outstanding 14K yellow gold dachshund angel pin by famed Beverly Hills jewelry designer, William Ruser. The dog, shown sitting up in a begging position, is beautifully detailed. His eyes are set with tiny rubies and he wears a halo of seed pearls. The dog-angel’s wings are made from natural freshwater pearls, as are the clouds on which he floats. The back is signed and is marked “14K”.

Ruser, the personal jeweler to Hollywood’s elite such as Loretta Young and Joan Crawford, created a number of pieces featuring dogs, but they are almost always poodles. Sometimes, the animals are shown as angels. These probably were created to order to memorialize favorite pets. Joan Crawford often wore a set of poodle pins. Ruser remained one of Beverly Hills’ most exclusive jewelers until the late 1960s when he sold his Rodeo Drive boutique to Van Cleef & Arpels.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/16” x 1-7/16”. Weight: 13.7 gr.

An extremely fine and rare Georgian 12K gold bracelet featuring a large rectangular plaque of landscape agate flanked by seven smaller rectangular plaques. With only a little imagination, the central panel appears to represent a grouping of trees in front of distant mountains, while the smaller plaques seem more like tree-covered islands in a calm lake. Landscape agate was popular for small brooches in the Georgian era, but large examples made of several matched pieces such as this are extremely rare. The plaques are set in 12K yellow gold frames with typical Georgian chased scrolled and beaded decoration. The agate displays warm shades of tan, brown and grayish-cream. The bracelet has a replaced hidden box clasp (14K), but is in otherwise perfect original condition.

Origin: England, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, clasp replacement. Size: 23/32” x 6-7/8”.

A handsome pair of classic Art Deco double-sided 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces enhanced with engine-turned engraving and opaque navy blue champlevé enamel bands. The connectors stamped with the maker’s mark for Irving Heidelscheimer (Newark, NJ).

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 9/16†diameter. Weight: 5.7 gr.

A classic pair of Hermes 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the "Etrier" design. Each hinged end is in the form of a stirrup. The connectors are signed "Hermes", have serial numbers and are fully marked with appropriate French 18K gold marks. Etrier cufflinks in gold are no longer available at Hermes. The same design in sterling silver currently retails for $970. A similar design in gold, but with no moveable parts currently retails for $4750.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16" x 9/16". Weight: 15.8 grams.

A fine 18K multicolor gold and diamond gentleman's dress watch by Van Cleef & Arpels. The octagonal face is decorated with finely engraved alternating bands of 18K yellow and white gold in a herringbone pattern. The white gold bezel is pave-set with round brilliant-cut diamonds. The stem is topped with a bezel-set diamond and the lugs are also pave-set. The watch retains its original black silk strap, the gold buckle also set with diamonds. The diamonds are graded as G-H color, VS1 clarity. The back of the case is marked "Van Cleef & Arpels/Quartz/G2294.7/25689". The inside of the strap is tamped "Van Cleef & Arpels". The inside of the buckle is marked "V.C.A./750".

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent working condition; case is virtually mint; silk strap shows some wear at edges. Size: case, 1-1/4" diameter; strap, 8-3/4" long. Weight: 40.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.75 cts.

A lovely small Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the cover decorated with the unusual subject of a squirrel. The little fellow is depicted sitting upright munching on an acorn. The front cover is finished with a ropetwist border. The interior retains its original frame and glass insert. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, sharp detail to the front; the back has a few very minor dings visible in raking light. Dimensions: 13/16" x 3/4" excluding bale. Weight: 3.8 grams.

A nice pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces made from lapidary-cut lapis lazuli simply set in 18K yellow gold. The lapis has nice coloring with small flecks of gold. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1920. Condition: good; all original; both torpedoes have some small dings that are not particularly distracting. Size: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 6.2 grams.

A handsome pair of cufflinks, the faces featuring ancient silver Macedonian coins dating from the reign of Alexander the Great (336-323 B.C.). The obverse of the coins depicts Herakles (Hercules) wearing the skin of the Nemean lion. The reverse depicts a bow, quiver and club, and is inscribed with Alexander’s name. The coins are set in 14K yellow gold frames with ropetwist borders. The faces are connected by gold chains to the gold bar backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: Coins, Macedonia, 336-323 B.C.; Settings, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: 5/8” diameter. Weight: 7.2 gr.

An interesting pair of cufflinks carved from pieces of coral and shaped as koi. Each fish has the distinctive ruffled tail fins that are typical of the species. The fronts are joined with silvered chains to the backs which are simple pieces of coral branch. The color is very nice and is completely natural.

Origin: Southeast Asia, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 1/2”.

A pretty Victorian fob locket, the front cover decorated with a three-dimensional image of bird tending her nest of eggs, all worked in yellow, rose and green gold. The locket is attached to a swinging bail and would originally have been worn on either a fob chain or a chatelaine, rather than as a pendant. The hinged back cover is plain and was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, back cover has a few small dings commensurate with the locket’s age. Size: overall (excluding jump ring), 1-1/4” x 1”; locket only, 3/4” x 3/4”.

A classic pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval amethyst cabochons. The amethysts have strong, even color and superb clarity. The faces are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 23.24 cts.

A fine pair of Boucheron cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold, the oval faces centered with richly-colored citrines. The gold surfaces are worked in a wavy ridged pattern, and the citrines are ingenuously fantasy-cut in the same style. The quality of workmanship is evidenced in the manner in which the carving of the citrines matches exactly to the ridges of the gold settings where the two meet. THe backs are hinged. The connectors are fully marked with Boucheron's retailer and marker's mark, the 18K gold standard and serial numbers.

Origin: France. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the faces set with very fine reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting foxes. The designs are deeply carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The foxes’ mouths, particular, are very well done. The crystals are backed with mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K/Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.

A beautiful pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with cat’s-eye chrysoberyls by M. Nosey Dragon & Co. of Tientsin (now Tianjin), China. Each chrysoberyl is surrounded by a finely detailed gold dragon, complete with scales, claws and whiskers. The chrysoberyls are unusually dark, tending toward a grayish-green instead of the more common golden brown. The cat’s-eye effect is very strong. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs signed “Nosey” and marked “K14”. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted velvet and silk box imprinted with the maker’s name. The port city of Tientsin was opened by treaty with France and England in 1860 and became one of the most important trading and tourism cities in Eastern Asia. Fine jewelry, Chinese antiquities and other goods were readily available to wealthy visitors.

Origin: China, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” X 1/2". Weight: 8.4 grams.

An elegant small 14K gold enameled flower pin featuring a pair of white four-leaf clovers with green veining. Each flower is centered with a seed pearl. During the Victorian era, flowers were used to symbolize specific sentiments, and the white clover meant “think of me.” Small pins such as this were often given as presents to new brides and are sometimes called honeymoon pins. The back of the pin is stamped with Hammerman’s mark and 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1946. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 2.4 grams.

An unusual combination of classic Victorian insect jewelry and the patriotic color combination popular around the time of the Centennial celebrations of 1876. The insect’s folded wings are set with pairs of rubies,sapphires and diamonds. The thorax is represented with a single bezel-set diamond and the eyes are small rubies. Neither the rubies nor sapphires have evidence of heat treatment. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 1.86 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .17 ct; ruby, .09 ct; sapphire, .07 ct.

A rare pair of sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the faces with very detailed images of a Native American in profile. The Indian's long hair is woven with feathers and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with stalks of corn. These latter details are very much in the Art Nouveau taste. The backs of the cufflinks are marked "Sterling." Both Unger and Kerr made an Indian design with a full-face image. These cufflinks are of equal quality, but we do not know the maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16 x 1/2". Weight:

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by one of Italy's greatest 20th century jewelry artists, Nino D'Antonio Germano. Germano was born into an important family of Roman jewelers in 1926 and came of age during World War II. He was inspired by designs from antiquity, and his pieces often feature ancient Greek, Roman and Etruscan grotesques, masks and other elements. He was principally a sculptor, but made a very small amount of jewelry using the lost wax method of casting. This process is self-destructive and assures that every piece is nearly unique. Original pencil sketches of his jewelry designs are included in the artist's catalogue raisonne "Nino D'Antonio Germano Studio Catalogue Book" (transl, S. Brecker). The quality of the design and its execution is first-rate. The gold surfaces are acid washed to achieve the softly bloomed texture found in ancient jewels. The backs are signed "Germano" and are marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960s. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 11.8 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks. Unlike most stirrup cufflinks that have a rounded triangular shape, this pair has a severe angled shape that heightens the Art Deco appeal of the design. This type of cufflink was first popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s and remained popular in France through the mid-century. The surfaces are decorated with bright-cut engraving. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an unknown maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1-1/8" x 9/32" wide. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A very interesting pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks were made in France and were available only in Tiffany’s Paris boutique. Each face is formed as a square knot instead of the more traditional knots often seen in cufflinks. The solid connectors are marked with French 18K hallmarks and also “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 15.0 grams.

An extremely rare pair of 22K yellow gold cufflinks designed by the famous surrealist painter Salvador Dali. Inspired by his hero, Louis XIV, Dali minted a limited number of his own gold coins in 1966. The artist called his gold coin the "Dali d'or" after the "Louis d'or" coins created for the French king. The coins were minted in four sizes and values, and Dali occasionally used them to pay debts he owed to friends.

In 1967, a year after creating the money, Dali collaborated with the luxury jeweler Piaget to create a line of jewelry incorporating the remaining coins. Dali d'or jewels are quite rare, but can be found as watches, pendants, earrings, brooches and cufflinks.

Like the royal coins, Dali's personal coins featured his likeness along with that of his wife, Gala, on the front. Their faces are surrounded by laurel leaves, fleurs-de-lys and eggs, the last element a recurring symbol of rebirth in Dali's works. The same motifs are repeated on the back, but without the faces and in an even more surrealistic design. Each coin is signed and dated by Dali and is incised with its edition number. The coins used for this pair of cufflinks are #1495 and #1499.

The toggle findings are worked in 18K gold and are signed "Piaget".

Origin: Spain and France, 1967. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 35.8 grams.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring alternating flexible links set with cabochon blue sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. The collet-set sapphires, graded as medium-dark blue in color, have good clarity and show no signs of heat or other treatment. The diamonds, graded as SI2 clarity and J/K color, are bead-set in white gold. Tool marks on the reverse indicate that the bracelet is handmade. The box clasp is concealed under one of the sapphire links. Marked "18K" and with a serial number and unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.

An extraordinary gentleman's dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with cabochon cut blue sapphires. The design is very simple and sophisticated. The sapphires are of unusually fine quality to be cut en cabochon. Using the Gemological Institute of America's grading system, they are medium-dark, vivid strongly violetish-blue with excellent symmetry and polish, and very good clarity. The set was retailed by Cabochon Jewellers, Bangkok's most luxurious jeweler, located in the lobby of The Oriental Hotel. The set is accompanied by two original bills of sale, indicating the weight of the gemstones. Each piece is marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Thailand, ca. 1978. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16" x 15/32"; studs, 1/2" x 13/32". Weight: 24.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.51 carats (cufflinks, 9.53 cts; studs, 5.98 cts).

A superb 19th century French figural fob seal worked in silver and 18K gold. The gorgeously detailed wolf's head is worked in silver with gold accents such as the collar and the long tongue that hangs from one side of the very toothy jaws. The eyes are set with small rubies. The carnelian seal has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a very small flake on one corner of the carnelian, jump ring is a later addition. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.7 grams.

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

A very attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs are decorated in an elegant herringbone weave pattern that creates just a little soft sparkle. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 13.0 grams.

An exquisite Edwardian pendant and brooch featuring a large oval rubellite (pinkish-red tourmaline) cabochon surrounded by old European cut diamonds mounted in elegant buttercup settings. The diamond flower buds are mounted in an intricately interlaced knife-edge platinum setting. The back has a removable mounting so the piece can be worn as either a brooch or a pendant. Removable mountings of this type are very complex and appear on only the finest pieces from the period. The rubellite has fine color. Rubellites are usually very included, but this stone has far better clarity than most, graded as Type III slightly included. The diamonds range I-J in color and SI1-SI2 in clarity. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: probably France, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 cts; rubellite, 5.08 cts.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the loveknot form, the top of each knot collet-set in white gold with a round brilliant-cut diamond. The gold tubes that form the knots have squared-off edges that make the knots more interesting than other similar knot cufflinks. The diamonds are estimated at SI2 clarity and J/K color.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .23 carat.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A very fine 18K yellow gold fob charm set with coral cameos. The faces are similar to comedy and tragedy masks, with one frowning, one smiling and one somewhere in between. The cameos are very nicely carved and have the strong coloration typical of Mediterranean coral from the Italian coast. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with beading and twisted wirework. This is one of the nicer and more unusual large fob charms we’ve seen over the years. The fob is marked “750” for 18K gold and bears an Italian maker’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-9/16” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 18.1 grams.

A lovely and very unusual 18K yellow gold, rock crystal, mother of pearl and aventurine glass ("goldstone") locket. The locket is constructed as a beveled oval frame of aventuring enclosing a pair of rock crystal windows, one of which opens to allow access to the inside of the locket. A mother-of-pearl plaque can be left in place so two photos can be displayed or removed so the locket can hold a lock of hair or a pressed flower. This is the only aventurine locket we have seen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.