Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1632)

A pretty Victorian fob locket, the front cover decorated with a three-dimensional image of bird tending her nest of eggs, all worked in yellow, rose and green gold. The locket is attached to a swinging bail and would originally have been worn on either a fob chain or a chatelaine, rather than as a pendant. The hinged back cover is plain and was never monogrammed. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, back cover has a few small dings commensurate with the locket’s age. Size: overall (excluding jump ring), 1-1/4” x 1”; locket only, 3/4” x 3/4”.

A classic pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the faces collet-set with oval amethyst cabochons. The amethysts have strong, even color and superb clarity. The faces are marked “14K.”

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 23.24 cts.

A fine pair of Boucheron cufflinks worked in 18K yellow gold, the oval faces centered with richly-colored citrines. The gold surfaces are worked in a wavy ridged pattern, and the citrines are ingenuously fantasy-cut in the same style. The quality of workmanship is evidenced in the manner in which the carving of the citrines matches exactly to the ridges of the gold settings where the two meet. THe backs are hinged. The connectors are fully marked with Boucheron's retailer and marker's mark, the 18K gold standard and serial numbers.

Origin: France. Dimensions: front faces, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 4.96 cts.

A pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. 14K yellow gold double-faced cufflinks, the faces set with very fine reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting foxes. The designs are deeply carved and expertly painted in bright colors. The foxes’ mouths, particular, are very well done. The crystals are backed with mother-of-pearl. The connectors are marked “14K/Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, no damage to crystals. Dimensions: 14x14mm. Weight: 13.2 gr.

A beautiful pair of late Victorian 14K yellow gold cufflinks set with cat’s-eye chrysoberyls by M. Nosey Dragon & Co. of Tientsin (now Tianjin), China. Each chrysoberyl is surrounded by a finely detailed gold dragon, complete with scales, claws and whiskers. The chrysoberyls are unusually dark, tending toward a grayish-green instead of the more common golden brown. The cat’s-eye effect is very strong. The faces are connected with chains to torpedo backs signed “Nosey” and marked “K14”. The cufflinks are presented in their original fitted velvet and silk box imprinted with the maker’s name. The port city of Tientsin was opened by treaty with France and England in 1860 and became one of the most important trading and tourism cities in Eastern Asia. Fine jewelry, Chinese antiquities and other goods were readily available to wealthy visitors.

Origin: China, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 3/4” X 1/2". Weight: 8.4 grams.

An elegant small 14K gold enameled flower pin featuring a pair of white four-leaf clovers with green veining. Each flower is centered with a seed pearl. During the Victorian era, flowers were used to symbolize specific sentiments, and the white clover meant “think of me.” Small pins such as this were often given as presents to new brides and are sometimes called honeymoon pins. The back of the pin is stamped with Hammerman’s mark and 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1946. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-1/8” x 9/16”. Weight: 2.4 grams.

An unusual combination of classic Victorian insect jewelry and the patriotic color combination popular around the time of the Centennial celebrations of 1876. The insect’s folded wings are set with pairs of rubies,sapphires and diamonds. The thorax is represented with a single bezel-set diamond and the eyes are small rubies. Neither the rubies nor sapphires have evidence of heat treatment. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: head, 11/16” x 11/16”; overall length, 2-5/8”. Weight: 1.86 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .17 ct; ruby, .09 ct; sapphire, .07 ct.

A rare pair of sterling silver bean-back cufflinks, the faces with very detailed images of a Native American in profile. The Indian's long hair is woven with feathers and the edges of the cufflinks are decorated with stalks of corn. These latter details are very much in the Art Nouveau taste. The backs of the cufflinks are marked "Sterling." Both Unger and Kerr made an Indian design with a full-face image. These cufflinks are of equal quality, but we do not know the maker.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; sharp detail. Dimensions: 13/16 x 1/2". Weight:

A lovely, heavy 18K yellow gold fancy cable chain necklace, with alternating double and beaded links. The chain is ornate enough to be worn simply as a necklace, but is sturdy enough so support a heavy pendant or multiple charms. The spring clasp is stamped with partially obscured French hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21-3/4" long. Weight: 10.9 gr.

A colorful, handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces bezel-set with carnelian and green chalcedony oval cabochons. The color contrast is very striking. Interestingly, they could be worn so either the red or green sides face out on the cuff, or with one cuff showing red and the other green. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 9/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 6.1 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: carnelian, 8.14 cts.; chalcedony, 8.14 cts.

A stunning pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by one of Italy's greatest 20th century jewelry artists, Nino D'Antonio Germano. Germano was born into an important family of Roman jewelers in 1926 and came of age during World War II. He was inspired by designs from antiquity, and his pieces often feature ancient Greek, Roman and Etruscan grotesques, masks and other elements. He was principally a sculptor, but made a very small amount of jewelry using the lost wax method of casting. This process is self-destructive and assures that every piece is nearly unique. Original pencil sketches of his jewelry designs are included in the artist's catalogue raisonne "Nino D'Antonio Germano Studio Catalogue Book" (transl, S. Brecker). The quality of the design and its execution is first-rate. The gold surfaces are acid washed to achieve the softly bloomed texture found in ancient jewels. The backs are signed "Germano" and are marked "750" for 18K gold.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960s. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" diameter. Weight: 11.8 grams.

A nice pair of vintage 18K yellow gold stirrup cufflinks. Unlike most stirrup cufflinks that have a rounded triangular shape, this pair has a severe angled shape that heightens the Art Deco appeal of the design. This type of cufflink was first popularized by Cartier in the late 1940s and remained popular in France through the mid-century. The surfaces are decorated with bright-cut engraving. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French "tete d'aigle" hallmarks for 18K and with an unknown maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 3/4" x 1-1/8" x 9/32" wide. Weight: 9.3 grams.

A very interesting pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. The cufflinks were made in France and were available only in Tiffany’s Paris boutique. Each face is formed as a square knot instead of the more traditional knots often seen in cufflinks. The solid connectors are marked with French 18K hallmarks and also “Tiffany & Co.”

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 13/16” x 7/16”. Weight: 15.0 grams.

An extremely rare pair of 22K yellow gold cufflinks designed by the famous surrealist painter Salvador Dali. Inspired by his hero, Louis XIV, Dali minted a limited number of his own gold coins in 1966. The artist called his gold coin the "Dali d'or" after the "Louis d'or" coins created for the French king. The coins were minted in four sizes and values, and Dali occasionally used them to pay debts he owed to friends.

In 1967, a year after creating the money, Dali collaborated with the luxury jeweler Piaget to create a line of jewelry incorporating the remaining coins. Dali d'or jewels are quite rare, but can be found as watches, pendants, earrings, brooches and cufflinks.

Like the royal coins, Dali's personal coins featured his likeness along with that of his wife, Gala, on the front. Their faces are surrounded by laurel leaves, fleurs-de-lys and eggs, the last element a recurring symbol of rebirth in Dali's works. The same motifs are repeated on the back, but without the faces and in an even more surrealistic design. Each coin is signed and dated by Dali and is incised with its edition number. The coins used for this pair of cufflinks are #1495 and #1499.

The toggle findings are worked in 18K gold and are signed "Piaget".

Origin: Spain and France, 1967. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 1" diameter. Weight: 35.8 grams.

A beautiful 18K yellow gold bracelet featuring alternating flexible links set with cabochon blue sapphires and round brilliant cut diamonds. The collet-set sapphires, graded as medium-dark blue in color, have good clarity and show no signs of heat or other treatment. The diamonds, graded as SI2 clarity and J/K color, are bead-set in white gold. Tool marks on the reverse indicate that the bracelet is handmade. The box clasp is concealed under one of the sapphire links. Marked "18K" and with a serial number and unknown maker's mark.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32" wide; 7-1/4" long. Weight: 33.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 25.84 carats; diamond, .54 carat.

An extraordinary gentleman's dress set comprising two double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, all worked in 18K yellow gold and set with cabochon cut blue sapphires. The design is very simple and sophisticated. The sapphires are of unusually fine quality to be cut en cabochon. Using the Gemological Institute of America's grading system, they are medium-dark, vivid strongly violetish-blue with excellent symmetry and polish, and very good clarity. The set was retailed by Cabochon Jewellers, Bangkok's most luxurious jeweler, located in the lobby of The Oriental Hotel. The set is accompanied by two original bills of sale, indicating the weight of the gemstones. Each piece is marked "750" for 18K.

Origin: Thailand, ca. 1978. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflinks, 9/16" x 15/32"; studs, 1/2" x 13/32". Weight: 24.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 15.51 carats (cufflinks, 9.53 cts; studs, 5.98 cts).

A superb 19th century French figural fob seal worked in silver and 18K gold. The gorgeously detailed wolf's head is worked in silver with gold accents such as the collar and the long tongue that hangs from one side of the very toothy jaws. The eyes are set with small rubies. The carnelian seal has never been engraved. Tested and guaranteed silver and 18K.

Origin: France, ca. 1850. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, a very small flake on one corner of the carnelian, jump ring is a later addition. Dimensions: 7/8" x 7/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.7 grams.

An attractive vintage Venetian Etruscan Revival fob charm worked in 18K yellow gold. The charm is set along the edges with alternating round amethysts and citrines. The center of one face is set with an amethyst and the other with a citrine. Exposed gold surfaces are intricately enhanced with rosettes and twisted wire decoration. The combination of violet and golen-yellow gemstones is quite attractive. Teted and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/16" diameter. Weight: 9.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 2.9 cts; citrine 2.9 cts.

A very attractive pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the stirrup (“etrier”) style originally popularized by Cartier in the Art Deco era. The solid hinged bar passes through the cuff holes and the angled legs surround the outside of the cuffs to hold them securely together. The legs are decorated in an elegant herringbone weave pattern that creates just a little soft sparkle. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and have an unidentified maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” x 3/4". Weight: 13.0 grams.

An exquisite Edwardian pendant and brooch featuring a large oval rubellite (pinkish-red tourmaline) cabochon surrounded by old European cut diamonds mounted in elegant buttercup settings. The diamond flower buds are mounted in an intricately interlaced knife-edge platinum setting. The back has a removable mounting so the piece can be worn as either a brooch or a pendant. Removable mountings of this type are very complex and appear on only the finest pieces from the period. The rubellite has fine color. Rubellites are usually very included, but this stone has far better clarity than most, graded as Type III slightly included. The diamonds range I-J in color and SI1-SI2 in clarity. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: probably France, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: Weight: 6.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.6 cts; rubellite, 5.08 cts.

A handsome pair of vintage 14K yellow gold cufflinks in the loveknot form, the top of each knot collet-set in white gold with a round brilliant-cut diamond. The gold tubes that form the knots have squared-off edges that make the knots more interesting than other similar knot cufflinks. The diamonds are estimated at SI2 clarity and J/K color.

Origin: America, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .23 carat.

A classic gold “Open Heart” pendant in the large size by Tiffany & Co. Created by Elsa Peretti, this design has become one of Tiffany’s most popular and identifiable designs. This pendant is currently available in three sizes, this version (27mm) being the largest. The pendant is suspended from its original Tiffany chain. The back of the pendant is signed “Elsa Peretti” and both the pendant and chain are fully hallmarked by Tiffany & Co. This piece is currently available at Tiffany & Co. and retails for $1250.

Origin: America, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: chain, 18-1/4” long; pendant, 1” x 1-1/16” (25 x 27 mm). Weight: 10.5 grams.

A very fine 18K yellow gold fob charm set with coral cameos. The faces are similar to comedy and tragedy masks, with one frowning, one smiling and one somewhere in between. The cameos are very nicely carved and have the strong coloration typical of Mediterranean coral from the Italian coast. The gold surfaces are ornately decorated with beading and twisted wirework. This is one of the nicer and more unusual large fob charms we’ve seen over the years. The fob is marked “750” for 18K gold and bears an Italian maker’s mark.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Size: 1-9/16” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 18.1 grams.

A lovely and very unusual 18K yellow gold, rock crystal, mother of pearl and aventurine glass ("goldstone") locket. The locket is constructed as a beveled oval frame of aventuring enclosing a pair of rock crystal windows, one of which opens to allow access to the inside of the locket. A mother-of-pearl plaque can be left in place so two photos can be displayed or removed so the locket can hold a lock of hair or a pressed flower. This is the only aventurine locket we have seen. The bail is stamped with French 18K gold import marks.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1-1/8" x 1-5/16" (excluding bail). Weight: 8.4 grams.

A fine Edwardian 14K yellow gold and platinum bangle bracelet, the top set with four sets of three round brilliant sapphires separated by rows of round single-cut diamonds. The sapphires are superb quality, with medium-tone, vivid violetish blue color in sunlight and a nearly pure violet color in incandescent light. The stones are eye-clean and are perfectly matched. Color-change sapphires are rather uncommon and matched stones such as these are very rare. The diamonds have bright color and SI clarity. The sapphires and diamonds are in a millegrained platinum setting with a delicately pierced gallery along the sides. The bracelet has an unidentified maker’s mark (a pair of acorns). Tested and guaranteed 14K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/16” wide; 6-1/4” circumference. Weight: 8.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .23 ct; color-change sapphire, 4.68 cts.

A lovely late Victorian 14K yellow gold locket, the front decorated with a coiled snake with a diamond-set head. The serpent’s head and tail are twisted together forming a circle that, in Victorian symbology, represented the eternal nature of love. The snake’s body is very nicely detailed and the 5-point old mine cut diamond has bright color and good clarity. The locket’s smooth surfaces have a slightly matte “Russian” finish that contrasts nicely with the details of the snake. The interior of the locket retains both original frames and glass covers. Tested and guaranteed 14K gold.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, a few pinpoints on the back side, no monogram. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 5.9 grams.

A very attractive 18K yellow gold fob charm in the Etruscan Revival style. The lantern-shaped charm is set with four oval cabochons of amazonite. The gold surfaces are heavily decorated with applied rosettes and wirework. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” long (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amazonite, 12.75 carats.

An extremely desirable pair of of Edwardian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks set with reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting American birds, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch. The faces have beautifully rendered depictions of a ruffed grouse, a sandpiper, a standing mallard duck, and a mallard duck in flight. Each of the birds is brilliantly colored and set against a mother-of-pearl background. The connectors are marked "14K" and are signed "AF" for Abercrombie & Fitch.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.1 gr.

A very heavy 14K yellow gold tie bar set with a blue sapphire by Tiffany & Co. The classic design features engraved lines arranged in a sunburst pattern emanating from the gypsy-set sapphire at one end. The sapphire is graded as medium strong very slightly breenish blue (vslgB 5/5), very good cut and Type II eye-clean clarity. The back is marked by Tiffany & Co. and also “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 7.9 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .221 carat.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pair of cufflinks as Item #1001372.

A very fine and rare Bohemian garnet pendant featuring an openwork butterfly pave set with rose-cut garnets and enclosed within a heart-shaped gilt metal frame. Most Bohemian garnet jewelry was made in the more traditional styles popular in England and America, but this pendant--in the more stylized Germanic Jugendstil--is particularly striking. Some of the butterfly's wings are set with large, deeply colored stones, while others are set with smaller, brighter stones to provide contrast. The pendant is completed with a 20-inch gold-filled chain.

Origin: Bohemia, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; chain is a later addition. Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/2 x 2-7/8".

An interesting vintage 14K yellow gold ring featuring a heart-shaped amethyst in an ornate prong setting with a clustered accent of cultured pearls and another small amethyst at the top. The gallery under the stone echos the heart motif. The amethyst has good, even coloring and is eye-clean. The interior of the shank is engraved "Until Eternity." Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: one prong lacking near the bottom point of the heart; amethyst has a 1 millimeter nick in the girdle (visible under magnification). Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: 1" x 3/4". Weight: 9.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: amethyst, 14.35 cts.

Very nice Victorian 18K yellow gold stick pin in the form of a coiled snake. The head is set with an old European cut sapphire. The engraved detailing is very nice. The snake motif in Victorian jewelry, often used to represent eternal love, became popular after Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria a snake ring as her betrothal gift. Hallmarked with the French "tete de cheval" and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: France, circa 1850. Condition: all original, the pinstem has the usual bends that are not visible when being worn. Size: 2-1/2” overall length; snake, 9/16” x 9/16”. Weight: 1.5 grams.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

An absolutely stunning Art Deco cross pendant in 18K yellow gold accented with diamonds and sapphires. The body of the cross is worked in pierced yellow gold, centering a nearly 2/3-carat round old European cut diamond collet-set in platinum. The piercing lightens the appearance of the cross and creates the visual effect of rays emanating from the central diamond. Each of the four arms of the cross is bordered with caliber-cut natural blue sapphires of fine quality, and terminates in a band of round brilliant-cut diamonds bead-set in platinum. The corners of the junctions of the arms are ornamented with small diamonds collet-set in platinum and cabochon sapphires prong-set in gold. The overall design is very angular, heightening the strong Art Deco treatment of this most traditional of designs. The center diamond is estimated at G color, SI2 clarity, and the smaller diamonds are of similar quality. The sapphires have excellent color saturation and clarity. This is, without a doubt, the finest Art Deco cross we’ve seen. The cross is stamped with the French “tete d’aigle” for 18K gold and has an indistinct maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2” x 1-9/16” (excluding bale). Weight: 11.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 2.5 carats; sapphire, 3.6 carats.

An attractive pair of 18K yellow gold baton-style cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut G/H color diamonds and channel-set square rubies. The gold surfaces have a semi-matte finish that accents the brilliance of the gemstones very nicely. Solid bridges connect the faces to hinged backs. The bridges are marked “750” and also have serial numbers, but no maker’s mark.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 11/16” x 3/8”. Weight: 16.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 ct; ruby, 1.28 cts.

A classic pair of heavy 18K yellow gold earrings by Gucci. The earrings are in a triangular shape with gently rounded corners and are worked in an open basketweave pattern. The design incorporates both matte and polished surfaces to create a greater sense of depth. The earrings retain their original Omega clips, but the posts could easily be removed for wear as earclips. Each earring is marked 18K and is signed “Gucci”.

Origin: Italy, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 7/8” x 7/8”. Weight: 17.9 grams.

A delightful vintage 18K yellow gold brooch in the form of a leopard by Fred of Paris. The leopard's spots a created of black enamel and his eyes are set with round emeralds flanked by round single-cut diamonds. The gemstones are of superb quality, as expected from one of the world's great jewelry houses. The brooch has a two-prong clip on the back. It bears French 18K gold hallmarks and is signed "Fred-Paris."

Origin: France, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 2-3/8" x 1-9/16". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .13 ct; emerald, .04 ct. Weight: 27.8 gr.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold and beveled crystal porte-photo (“photo carrier”), the gold rim simply decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. It is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair or a memento such as a pressed flower on the other. They could also be used to display a "public" photo on one side and a more "private" photo on the reverse. These lovely little pieces are becoming increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent; very minor surface scratching on crystal consistent with age and a small roughness of the edge of the crystal (not visible when inside the frame). Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.3 grams.

A stunning pair of platinum and 18K yellow gold earrings set with diamonds and rubies by Tiffany & Co. Each earring features four marquise cut diamonds set in the traditional “Victoria” crossed pattern, suspending a prong-set round mixed-cut ruby. The diamonds are set in platinum, while the rubies are set in 18K yellow gold, as tradition dictates. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The rubies, of equally superb quality, are graded as medium vivid red color (R 5/6), excellent cut, and Type II eye-clean clarity. The quality of the rubies suggests they are Burmese in origin. Tiffany has not sold Burmese gems since 2003, so earrings such as these cannot be replaced. The posts are marked “T&Co PT950”. Victoria earrings, set only with diamonds, are currently available at Tiffany for $4650 (.72 ct) and $6500 (1.28 ct).

Origin: America, ca. 1995. Condition: excellent. Size: 15/32” x 5/16”. Weight: 3.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .98 ct; ruby, .88 ct.

A delightful Victorian 10K yellow gold figural ring in the form of a genie. The genie's hands are folded across his chest and grasp a old European cut yellow sapphire. The use of a fancy color sapphire in a piece such as this is quite original. The stone is graded as very light, very slightly grayish Yellow-Green (YG 2/3). The ring's shank is in the form of sinuous snake whose head peers over the genie's shoulder and gazes at the glimmering sapphire. The design is just beautifully thought out and the detailing is excellent. The interior of the shank is marked "10K".

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, sharp detail; wear consistent with age to the facet junctions on the crown of the sapphire. Finger Size: 8-1/2. Size: 13/16" wide at widest. Weight: 9.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.53 ct.

An outstanding pair of antique 18K yellow gold cufflinks set with diamonds and rubies in the "Japanesque" style produced by Tiffany & Co. for a very brief period following the opening of Japan to western trade in the 1850s. Pieces in this style were wildly popular and always drew from traditional Japanese natural motifs, in this case chrysanthemum blossoms. Each slightly-domed face is ornately worked in a series of overlapping petals, centering old European cut diamonds and cushion cut rubies. The prongs holding the gemstones are fashioned as tiny flower petals--an element not visible except under magnification. The diamonds are estimated at H color and VS1 clarity, while the rubies are strongly-saturated medium-dark, slightly purplish-red in color. The rubies show no signs of heat treatment and are likely Burmese in origin. The faces are joined by chain links, and the backs are marked "Tiffany & Co." in the old style. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

The chrysanthemum was a symbol reserved exclusively for the use of the Japanese emperor and his immediate family. As a further nod to the Japanesque style, Tiffany chose to use gemstones in shades of red and white--the official colors of the Meiji Imperial dynasty.

Origin: America, 1877-1883. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 5/8" diameter. Weight: 11.4 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .172 ct; ruby, .367 ct.

A very nice extended set of cufflinks and shirt studs, worked in 14K yellow gold and mother of pearl by Larter. The double-sided cufflinks have concave oval mother of pearl faces centered by a simple gold disc. Both the large and small studs are made in the same manner, but are in the traditional round shape. Originally, the larger studs would have been used for the waistcoat and the smaller studs for the shirt. When wearing true “white tie”, the set can be used exactly in this way, but for use with a tuxedo, the owner can choose to wear either the large or small set in the shirt’s buttonholes. The mother of pearl has very nice iridescence and a glossy surface. Each piece is marked “14K” and with Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: cufflink faces, 11/16” x 7/16”; large studs, 17/32” diameter; small studs, 5/16” diameter.

A magnificent pair of Art Deco 18K white gold earrings set with diamonds and Burma rubies. The oval brilliant cut rubies have pure, vivid red color and good clarity. The do not show indication of heat or other enhancement. The rubies are surrounded by a border of round diamonds intersected by a double band of diamonds on either side of the ruby. These hang freely from a surmount fashioned by a trilliant cut diamond suspending round diamonds set into a triangular plaque echoing the shape of the trilliants. The mountings have a double gallery and the backs surrounding the ruby drops are engraved in a geometric pattern. The .21-ct trilliants are graded as E color, SI1 clarity and the smaller diamonds are G-H color, SI1-I1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

NOTE: We are presenting the matching ring (Item #1306951).

Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: length, 1-3/8"; maximum width, 1/2". Weight: 4.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.5 cts; diamond, 1.74 cts.

A handsome pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the square faces highlighted with a hammered texture and star-set with very good quality antique cushion-cut diamonds, sapphires and rubies. One pair is diamond and ruby and the other is diamond and sapphire. The stones show no indications of heat treatment. The ruby and sapphire are most likely from Burma and Ceylon, respectively. The use of red, white and blue stones was particularly popular around the time of the American Centennial celebration in 1876. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1876. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2” x 1/2”. Weight: 6.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .15 ct; ruby, .05 ct; sapphire, .05 ct.

A very fine five-piece 14K yellow gold and sapphire dress set by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each piece is fashioned as a reeded baton circled by a collar of channel-set blue sapphires. The sapphires are of superb slightly violetish-blue color, with medium tone and vivid saturation. One baton on each cufflink is hinged for ease in putting them through the cuff. Each shirt stud is signed "VCA NY", and is stamped with the serial number and "14K". The cufflinks are marked only "14K". Van Cleef employed several jewelers to manufacture their designs during this era, and it's not uncommon to find sets in which not every piece is marked by VCA.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent. Size: cufflinks, large faces, 15/16" long; small faces, 7/8" long; studs, 9/16" long. Weight: 24.8 grams. Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.37 carats.

A delightful Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold circle pin, the center set with an enameled trillium blossom. The petals are beautifully enameled in translucent shades of ivory and green. The gold surface below the enamel is intricately engraved. The blossom is centered by a pale coral bead. The periphery of the circle brooch is set with small seed pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and clasp marked 14K and bearing the hallmark for Bippart, Griscomb & Osborn.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, the swivel bale has been removed but can be replaced with no solder work necessary. Size: 31/32" diameter. Weight: 3.5 grams.

A wonderful Art Deco 14K yellow gold baton-link long chain, studded at intervals with oval moss agate cabochons. The long chain was a traditional Victorian style, but in this case was updated by replacing the usual small links with long baton-style links. The resulting linear look would have been considered much more modern and stylish. The links are interrupted by nine 7.5x9.0mm moss agate cabochons. The gemstones have very nice medium- to dark-green lacy moss-like inclusions against the colorless transparent background. Notice that the stones are set closer together toward the middle of the chain, and farther apart toward the ends. The clasp is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent. Size: 28” long. Weight: 18.9 grams.

A lovely Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold pendant enhanced with translucent enamels in varying shades of green and a touch of rose. The whiplash curve outlines are studded with seed pearls and the whole suspends a baroque freshwater pearl. The pendant is attached to a fine Etruscan Revival 12K gold chain, the box clasp enhanced with ropetwist and beaded decoration. Both parts tested and guaranteed gold as described.

Origin: pendant, America, ca. 1900; chain, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage. Dimensions: overall chain length, 17-3/4"; pendant, 15/16" x 1-3/8". Weight: 9.9 grams.

A very nice 18K yellow gold ring in the Sputnik style by H Stern. The sphere is bezel-set with round citrines, amethyst, green tourmalines and aquamarines. This design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from the mines of the jeweler’s native Brazil. It later came to be known as “Sputnik” for its resemblance to the spike Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each ring has a unique appearance stemming from the specific combination of gemstones used. This example has a large number of citrines in a fine, golden honey color. Combined with the green shades of tourmaline, the overall appearance is almost autumnal. The shank is signed by Stern and is marked for 18K gold. This example is on the smaller side and is ideal for wear as a pinky ring or on a smaller hand.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: dome, 5/8” diameter. Weight: 2.8 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.10 carats.

An exceptionally fine Victorian 18K yellow gold and turquoise locket in the Etruscan Revival taste. The outside of the sphere is encrusted with ornate wirework decoration against a stippled background. Small Persian turquoise cabochons, some set in star-shaped mountings, add a touch of color. The clasp is cleverly hidden to be nearly invisible when the ball is closed. Indistinctly marked; tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: England or America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter (excluding bail). Weight: 11.2 grams.

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces collet-set with jasper chalcedony cabochons. The stones display a nice variety of swirling colors in hues of rust, grayish-green and cream. The figure-eight connectors are marked “14K” and have Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

A superb modernist 18K yellow gold pendant set with a large bi-color tourmaline. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his bold use of very large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting. The color of this tourmaline shades from deep green to deep purplish-red. The gold mounting which slightly mimics the outline of the tourmaline is decorated with stippling and Florentine engraving. The back is is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “18K” and “No Bras”.

Marx exclusive boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC but he maintained close ties to his native Brazil. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-encrusted cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8” x 2” (excluding jump ring). Weight: 21.1 grams.

A classic pair of Art Deco 18K yellow gold flip-up stirrup cufflinks, the ends set with blue sapphire sugarloaf cabochons. The flip-up stirrup cufflinks were popularized by Cartier during the Art Deco era. The sapphires have dark, vivid blue hue and very good clarity. The cufflinks are signed “Cartier”, have the maker’s mark, the serial number and the French “tete d’aigle” hallmark for 18K gold.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: ends, 1/2" x 7/16”; overall length, 1-1/4”. Weight: 13.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.96 carats.

A very handsome, heavy 18K yellow gold ring set with a rectangular cushion cut synthetic ruby. The angularity of the setting is particularly attractive. The use of synthetic rubies in the era immediately after World War II is very typical, and this ring would have been expensive. Such stones are often an unattractive, bright orangey-red color. This ruby has a deeper red color modified with a little purple for a very rich look. The stone is well cut, with very good brilliance. The interior of the shank is engraved "Y.M. 9 Decembre 1950", and the back of the shank is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

Finger Size: 8. Dimensions: crown, 15/32" x 3/4". Weight: 11.7 grams. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 1.64 ct.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

A very nice vintage H. Stern style "Sputnik" charm or pendant worked in 18K yellow gold and collet-set with a variety of colorful gemstones including amethyst, citrine, aquamarine, pink tourmaline and green tourmaline. This design was popularized by Stern, the world's largest source of colored gemstones, to show off the range of colored stones available from Brazilian mines. The pointy design was reminiscent of the first Soviet satellite and was nicknamed "Sputnik". A variety of pieces were made in this style, but charms and pendants are among the most difficult to find. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" diameter (excluding jump ring). Weight: 5.2 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.07 cts.

A wonderful Art & Crafts sterling silver bracelet by the Kalo Workshop of Chicago. The bracelet is formed of six plaques, each centering an oval buff-cut citrine. The plaques are somewhat diamond-shaped, with beadwork at either end, and are joined by double oval links. The citrines have very dark amber coloring, with superb evenness and clarity. The smooth domed tops reflect the faceted cutting on the bottoms of the stones to very nice effect. The clasp is finished with a simple domed silver cabochon. The back of the clasp is stamped “Hand Wrought Sterling Kalo”. Kalo pieces set with gemstones are particularly rare.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7-1/2” long; 3/4" wide. Weight: 51.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 13.14 carats.

A handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the rectangular faces facet engraved in a diamond pattern. The intersections of the engraved lines are set with round blue sapphires. The sapphires have medium-light violetish-blue color that contrasts nicely with the gold. The backs are marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1960. Condition: excellent. Size: 15x19mm. Weight: 13.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: .34 ct.

A heavy and attractive pair of 14K yellow gold Art Deco cufflinks in the flip-up style. The round faces are decorated with engraved lines in a herringbone pattern. After being inserted in the button hole, the ends are flipped up to secure the cuff. This style is rather uncommon in cufflinks from North America, being much more prevalent in French cufflinks from the period. The connectors are signed by Birks and are marked “14Kt”.

Origin: Canada, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 19/32” diameter. Weight: 14.3 grams.