Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1605)

A handsome pair of 14K white gold cufflinks, each face formed from a plaque of lapis surrounded by smaller lapis batons. The canted corners are set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, as are the centers of the faces. The diamonds are graded as H/I color and SI1 clarity. The lapis is finely colored with only a minimal amount of the mica inclusions. The toggle backs are marked “585” for 14K.

Origin: probably Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 21/32” x 1/2". Weight: 10.9 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 ct.

An 18K white gold ring in classic Van Cleef & Arpels style, set with round brilliant diamonds and round sapphires. The sapphires are intensely colored and have eye-clean clarity. The diamonds are E/F color and VVS2 clarity. The interior of the shank is signed and bears complete serial numbers, maker’s mark and French 18K guarantee stamps.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 8.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.00 ct; diamond, .24 ct.

A colorful 18K gold and gemstone ring from the “Rainbow Collection” by H Stern. Made in the 1980’s, the collection was intended to show off the variety of colored gemstones available from Stern’s Brazilian mines and also the artistry of the company’s designers in the subtly graduated colors that reproduce the colors of the rainbow spectrum. The selection includes amethyst, iolite, green tourmaline, peridot, citrine, pink tourmaline and garnet. The interior of the shank is marked “750” for 18K and bears Stern’s hallmark.

NOTE: We are also offering a matching pair of earrings (Item #1381057).

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1985.
• Dimensions: 1/4" wide at front, tapering to 1/8” at the back.
• Finger Size: 7 1/2.
• Weight: 5.5 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: not accurately measurable due to setting, but estimated around 5 carats
• Condition: excellent; all original.

An outstanding pair of modernist 18K yellow gold and blue topaz cufflinks by exclusive Brazilian jewelry designer Haroldo Burle Marx. He is known for his bold use of colorful, large gemstones native to Brazil. His designs for men's jewelry are extremely uncommon. Each cufflink is roughly formed as a highly-polished "c" enclosing a Florentine-finished background. A brilliant oval blue topaz completes each cufflink. The gemstones are fine quality, graded as very slightly bluish-green hue with medium tone and very slightly grayish saturation (vslgB 5/3). Both stones are eye-clean and have good cut. Each cufflink is signed "Burle Marx" and is stamped "18K" and "No Bras".

Marx was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including the Empress Nagako of Japan, the Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margrethe of Denmark, and Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler of Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. One of his most famous commissions was a gem-set cross for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 29.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 28.5 cts.

An extraordinarily fine pair of 18K yellow gold double-sided cufflinks, the oval faces pave-set with round blue sapphires and round brilliant diamonds. The gemstones are of extremely high quality. The diamonds are graded as E/F color, VVS1 clarity and the sapphires as vivid, pure blue. The sapphires are set in black gold to further intensify the color. Each cufflink is marked "750" for 18K and is signed "Apogée". We have been unable to find any reference to this mark, but the cufflinks came from a private collection that was mostly by Cartier Buccellati, Bulgari, etc. These cufflinks are clearly of equal quality.

Origin: Continental Europe, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: larger faces, 9/16" x 13/16"; smaller faces, 7/16" x 9/16". Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 2.74 cts; diamond, 1.0 ct.

An extremely fine pair of 18K yellow gold half-hoop earrings channel-set with princess cut diamonds and square cut blue sapphires. Like all of Wayne’s jewelry, the gemstones are of the very top quality. The diamonds are F color and VVS2 clarity. The sapphires are extra-fine quality, with strongly saturated pure blue color and eye-clean clarity. The earrings have the original posts with omega backs. Each earring is marked with the model number “4”, the serial number “188156” and “750”. Each is also has Wayne’s signature.

Origin: America, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 9/16” wide; 3/4” long. Weight: 11.3 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .8 ct; sapphire, 1.54 cts.

Vintage 18K yellow gold brooch designed by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. The “Scribble” design (sometimes called “Graffiti” or “Squiggle”) is Picasso’s most famous creation and became one of Tiffany’s most desirable designs. The pin was available in several sizes. The design first appeared in 1983 and was available for many years. Earlier examples, such as this pin, are heavier than later pieces. The back is signed “Paloma Picasso” and is marked “1983 Tiffany & Co. 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1983. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-7/8 x 1-5/16”. Weight: 10.2 grams.

A classic vintage Mikimoto 14K yellow gold pin featuring ten cultured Akoya pearls, ranging in size from 6.25 to 7.58 millimeters. The pearls are estimated at A+ quality, with cream body color and rose overtones, and strong orient. The nacre is thick and lustrous and the surfaces are blemish-free. The back is signed with Mikimoto’s hallmark.

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Size: 1-7/8” x 1-1/4”. Weight: 12.1 grams.

An outstanding, oversized pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks fashioned as lengths of bamboo by Cartier. The surfaces are worked in the Florentine finish popular in mid-century jewelry. The "notches" in the bamboo are polished for nice contrast. The back faces are hinged. The cufflinks are marked "Cartier/18K/Italy" and have the serial number "26464".

Origin: Italy, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent. Size: front faces, 1-5/16" x 5/8"; back faces, 15/16" x 5/16". Weight: 23.3 grams.

A fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, fashioned as a comet, each of the heads set with a cabochon pink tourmaline and the tails set with a string of graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds. The diamonds are graded as J color, SI2 clarity. Comet jewelry has been intermittently popular since the early 19th century, and it usually appears on the scene around the same time as a close encounter with a major comet such as Halley's, which appeared in 1986. These cufflinks roughly date to that period. The backs are marked "18K" and have a maker's mark that appears to be that of Goodman & Co. of Indianapolis.

Origin: America, ca. 1986. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-3/8" x 1/2". Weight: 15.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .40 ct; tourmaline, 4.88 ct.

A nice pair of sterling silver cufflinks with an subtle Art Deco engraved floral motif. The solid connectors are joined to hinged backs. Each connector is stamped with Polish sterling marks and an unidentified maker's mark.

Origin: Poland, ca. 1986 (the pattern is likely from the 1920s). Condition: excellent; sharp detail; unpolished. Dimensions: 13/16" x 1/2". Weight: 10.6 gr.

A fine, heavy pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces set with round brilliant-cut rhodolite garnets. The gemstones have very good color with a strong purplish-red component that is accented nicely with the gold setting. The faces are connected with solid arched bridges to flat oval backs. The bridges are marked “18K” and one is signed “A Shoon” (?).

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Size: faces, 7/16” diameter. Weight: 15.1 grams.

A lovely 18K yellow and white gold, ruby and enamel love pendant (“medaille d’amour”) with a rebus spelling out Plus qu’hier, moins que demain,” (“More than yesterday, less than tomorrow.”) a line from the love poem written by Rosemonde Gérard to her husband Edmond Rostand (author of “Cyrano”) in 1889. The word “plus” is symbolized by a plus sign in white gold and the word “moins” by a minus sign set with rectangular cut synthetic rubies. In 1907, the Lyonnais jewelry Alphonse Augis created a love token based on the poem. This example has the starburst textured background paired with a bright-cut border in a style introduced in 1969. It is signed “A.A.” The medium size is perfect for either a neck chain or a charm bracelet. The pendant is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and with Augis’ maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, 1970.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail.
• Dimensions: 11/16” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring).
• Weight: 2.2 grams.
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .04 carat.

A fine pair of double-faced cufflinks fashioned from large South Sea black pearls set in 18K yellow gold. The pearls, with excellent luster and only very lightly blemished surfaces, are graded as AA quality. Their body color is grayish-silver with rose and faint green overtones. South Sea pearls of this dark color are especially attractive for men’s jewelry and look good with a wide range of shirt colors. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Weight: 9.1 gr.

A wonderful and very rare pair of signed Eva Segoura ladybug earrings worked in 18K yellow gold, and set with hematite and rubies. Segoura was a very exclusive Parisian jewelry designer at 20 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré for a short time. Many of her jewels were rather whimsical and featured animals such as ladybugs, caterpillars, mice and blowfish. Segoura made ladybug earrings in several variations using different precious and semi-precious stones. These ladybug earrings have bodies of carved hematite set in gold frames. The sides of each ladybug are adorned with collet-set cabochon rubies, as are the eyes. The little creatures are completed with alert antennae and ball feet. The clips are marked with the maker’s mark, the French 18K guarantee mark, and a partially obscured serial number. The backs of the frames are signed “Eva Segoura” in script.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-1/4” x 15/16”. Weight: 28.25 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 2.15 carats.

An elegant 18K yellow gold and diamond 5-piece dress set from the “Vannerie” collection by Tiffany & Co. The double-faced cufflinks and studs are worked in an open basketweave pattern into a slightly domed shape. The larger cufflinks faces and the studs are centered with bezel-set brilliant round diamonds (F/VVS2). Each piece in the set if fully marked by Tiffany. The cufflinks are marked “1995” and the studs “1996.” This design is no longer in production. The set is presented in its original dark blue fitted Tiffany box and with the original light blue paperboard outer box.

• Origin: America, 1995/96
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: large cufflink faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; studs, 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 26.75 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .60 carat

A very handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a strongly linear, architectural style. The faces are set at one end with iolites cut as sugarloaf cabochons and at the other with bluish-violet chalcedonies cut as triangular cabochons. The use of transparent, intense bluish-violet iolites with softer translucent chalcedonies in the same color family is an inspired choice and really sets these cufflinks apart. The faces are connected by solid bridges to hinged backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 1/2". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: iolite, .38 carat; chalcedony 1.14 carats.

Beautiful 29.75” strand of pearls by Mikimoto. The 6.0-6.5mm pearls are joined with a 14K yellow gold clasp set with a 3.3mm pearl. The strand comprises 113 pearls having medium cream-rose body color with Mikimoto’s classic rosé overtones. The nacre is thick and the luster is very fine. The quality is appraised at fine AA, indicating that they just border on the elusive AAA quality. The clasp is marked with Mikimoto’s hallmark. The strand is presented in its original white satin folio marked "Mikimoto Fifth Avenue".

Origin: Japan, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, securely strung; the satin folio has a champagne stain in the interior. Size: 29.75”, 6.0-6.5mm.

Accompanied by a June 2005 Bailey, Banks & Biddle written appraisal for $6,500.