Catalog: Estate Jewelry (1603)

A very fine round platinum, diamond and pearl brooch depicting a flower in full blossom being visited by a small insect. The flower’s leaves and petals are set with mine-cut diamonds, as are the insect’s wings. The insect’s body is formed from a small natural pearl and pearls also adorn the flower in several places. The delicacy of the design is amazing. The diamonds are very good quality and the pearls have lovely iridescence. The brooch retains its original safety clasp and 18K gold pinstem. The brooch is signed “Tiffany & Co.” and has an engraved inventory number. Tested and guaranteed platinum. This piece could be worn as a pendant simply by passing a fine platinum chain through one of the openings or by adding a folding bail.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 4.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the "forma livre" (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of large gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than being faceted, a technique he invented in 1948. The color of this aquamarine is quite nice—almost a Prussian blue. The gold mounting is decorated with the fine florentined engraving often seen on Marx pieces. Some of Marx's rings are quite bulky, but the narrowness of this ring truly flatters the hand. The ring is an iconic piece and would be immediately recognizable by any Burle Marx collector. The interior of the shank is signed “Burle Marx” and is stamped “750” and “Ind. Bras”.

Marx worked in his native Brazil, but his only boutique was located at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Indian Prime Minister Indira Gandhi. He was also a favored jeweler to Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon. On of his most important commissions was a gem-encrusted cross made for Pope John Paul II.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Finger Size: 5-3/4”. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/16”; shank tapers to 5/32” at the back. Weight: 10.8 grams.

A stunning French Belle Epoque platinum negligee necklace set with old European and single-cut diamond and calibre cut blue sapphires. The fancy platinum chain, interrupted at regular intervals with natural seed pearls, joins to a gracefully arched diamond-set bar suspending old European cut diamonds leading an asymmetrical pair of semicircular plaques, each finished with a tassel of natural seed pearls. The term “negligee”, technically meaning “careless”, refers to the seemingly careless, uneven arrangement of the drop elements. The diamonds are graded as J/K color and I1 clarity. The necklace is stamped with French “tete de chien” marks for platinum.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: necklace length, 17-1/2”; pendant drop length, 2-1/4”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .85 ct; sapphire, .16 ct. Weight: 9.5 grams.

A lovely double-sided 18K yellow gold crystal “porte-photo” (photo carrier), the gold rim elegantly decorated with a bound reed design in the Louis XVI style. The crystal covers are faceted in a star design on both sides. The locket is cleverly constructed with a hidden screw mechanism that allows the gold frame to expand so the crystal covers can be removed for adding or changing the contents. Double-sided porte-photos were often used to display a photo on one side and a tiny lock of hair, a pressed flower or other memento. They could also be used to display a “public” photo on one side and a more “private” image on the other. They are usually round or oval; a hexagonal example is rather uncommon. These lovely little pieces have become increasingly difficult to find. The porte-photo is fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, no chips or cracks to crystal. Size: 1-3/32” diameter (excluding bale).

A handsome pair of Art Deco 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces collet-set with jasper chalcedony cabochons. The stones display a nice variety of swirling colors in hues of rust, grayish-green and cream. The figure-eight connectors are marked “14K” and have Larter’s hallmark.

Origin: America, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1/2" diameter. Weight: 8.5 grams.

An unusually fine pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “stirrup” (“etrier”) style popularized by Cartier in the late Art Deco period. Rather than the usual triangular shape, however, the cufflinks display a double cyma-curve shape. Each of the sides is decorated with an angular ridged pattern at the edges. The solid bar is hidden inside the cuff when the cufflinks are being worn. Most “etrier” cufflinks have a hinged opening at the bar, but this pair opens at the point where the two sides meet. The mechanism is invisible when closed and the style gives the cufflinks considerably more appeal than their cousins. Each cufflink is fully hallmarked with French “tete d’aigle” hallmarks for 18K gold and with a master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8” x 15/16”. Weight: 13.0 grams.

A handsome, classic pair of Art Deco cufflinks with octagonal green chrysoprase plaques mounted with 18K yellow gold to chrysoprase torpedo backs. The gemstones have natural color (not dyed) and excellent translucency. The faces are slightly concave and are finished with a beveled edge. The connectors are stamped with European hallmarks for 18K gold.

Origin: Europe, ca. 1920. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: faces, 9/16” diameter; torpedo backs, 3/4" long. Weight: 4.2 grams.

A classic, heavy pair of sterling silver cufflinks by Hermes. Each sphere is enhanced with multiple engraved letters, randomly arranged. The letters—“H”, “E”, “R”, “M”, “E”, and “S”—are those found in “Hermes”. The connectors are slightly arched so the sphere lay tightly against the cuff. Each cufflink is signed “Hermes”, is marked “925” and bears the French “tete d’Athene” mark for sterling silver and the silversmith’s hallmark. This vintage design is no longer available at Hermes.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: spheres, 3/8” diameter. Weight: 25.1 grams.

A very fine matched pair of Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelets presented in their original fitted box. Each bracelet is fashioned with a buckle design and accented with ornate engraved and basse taille enamel decoration in a foral pattern. The edges of the bangles have bright cut engraving that lends a little glitter. The bracelets are generously sized with 3/4" width.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: the exterior of both bangles are in mint condition with absolutely no enamel damage or dings; the interiors of both have a very few, shallow pinpoints; one bracelet retains the original patented safety mechanism (dated 1870), while the other has been replaced with a safety chain; the original fitted case shows considerable wear. Size: 3/4” wide; interior opening, 2-1/8” x 1-11/16”. Weight: 68.4 grams.

A fine and very lovely Art Nouveau pendant or brooch worked in platinum and 18K yellow gold, every visible surface is set with old mine cut and old European cut diamonds of various sizes. The design depicts are central flower surrounded by foliage twisted into whiplash curves and sprinkled with flower buds. The construction is very solid and quite heavy, but the openwork maintains a feeling of lightness. The back retains the original pinstem and safety clasp as well as a folding bale so the jewel can be worn as either a brooch or pendant. Tested and guaranteed platinum and 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1905. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1-13/32” x 1-3/32” (excluding bale). Weight: 10.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.4 carats.

A fine pair of double baton cufflinks in 18K yellow gold. Each of the front faces is enhanced with a milgrained platinum band set with single-cut diamonds flanked on either side by square cut rubies. The slightly smaller back faces have a band of platinum-set diamonds, but without rubies. The batons are joined by chain connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: larger faces, 3/4" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; ruby, 1.18 ct. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A very good pair of 14Kyellow gold cufflinks, the oval faces enhanced with foliate engraving around the edges and centering .25-carat old European diamonds. The torpedo backs are decorated with matching foliate engraving. The diamonds are unusually large for cufflinks of this period and are of excellent quality, graded as I color and VS1 clarity. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 1/2” x 3/4”. Weight: 8.7 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 carat.

A fine pair of heavy 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the “horsebit” (“mors de filet”) style. The visible surfaces are covered in rich dark green translucent enamel overlaid with a yellow gold ropetwist motif. When being worn, only the enameled discs are visible. Each cufflink is marked “France/18K”.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, one cufflink has a superficial enamel nick visible only under 10x magnification. Weight: 13.5 grams.

A very handsome pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks in a strongly linear, architectural style. The faces are set at one end with iolites cut as sugarloaf cabochons and at the other with bluish-violet chalcedonies cut as triangular cabochons. The use of transparent, intense bluish-violet iolites with softer translucent chalcedonies in the same color family is an inspired choice and really sets these cufflinks apart. The faces are connected by solid bridges to hinged backs. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 7/8" x 1/2". Weight: 16.7 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: iolite, .38 carat; chalcedony 1.14 carats.

A lovely Art Nouveau pendant worked in silver and 10K yellow gold. The pendant consists of an openwork triangular silver plaque with a pair of plique-a-jour enameled mistletoe leaves below a band of opals and above a band of brilliant green moldavites, themselves over a square-cut pink tourmaline suspending a semi-baroque pearl drop. The whole is suspended from a round brilliant cut pink tourmaline set in gold. The combination of colored gemstones is lovely and nicely accents the enamel. The opals have a particularly nice play of color in tones of blue and reddish-orange. The overall design strongly suggests the work of the Pforzheim studios in Germany, but the “Sterling” markings on the back indicate an American origin.

Ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; no enamel damage. Size: 1-5/16” x 2” (to top of bale). Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: tourmaline, .96 ct; opal, .33 ct; moldavite, .20 ct. Weight: 4.4 grams.

A very handsome pair of Victorian cufflinks, the faces fashioned from carved bloodstone discs centered with gold fox’s heads. The bloodstone, carved with a concave surface, is finely colored in a strong green with noticeable red flecks. The fox heads are beautifully detailed. The faces are connected with chains to decorative torpedo backs. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: very good, each bloodstone disc has a small rim nick visible under magnification, but not visible during normal wear. Size: 9/16” diameter. Weight: 6.8 grams.

An elegant 5-piece dress set worked in 14K yellow gold and platinum by Carrington. The set, comprising a pair of double-sided cufflinks and three shirt studs, features round mother-of-pearl faces enclosed within engraved platinum borders and centered with small natural pearls. Both the mother-of-pearl and the pearls have very nice luster and color overtones. Each piece is hallmarked by Carrington, one of the leading American manufacturing jewelers at the turn of the 20th century.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent; all original. Size: cufflink faces, 9/16” diameter; studs, 11/32” diameter.

A good pair of pre-War Mexican silver cufflinks in a traditional strapwork motif. The square faces are joined to spherical backs. The surface retains an attractive old patina. One cufflink is marked “Sterling Taxco”, thus pre-dating the eagle system of marks introduced in 1948.

Origin: Mexico, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent; old patina. Size: 5/8” x 5/8”. Weight: 10.0 grams.