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The seal surface is worked in platinum engraved through to the underlying gold. The crest is that of the Scottish clan Irwin (variously spelled Irvine, Irving, etc.) with the first two words of the family motto, "Sub Sole Sub Umbra Virens."
The Albert swivel clasp is stamped with a French goldsmith's mark, but it's likely that fob is English and the swivel clasp is an addition from the 1920s. The metals are tested and guaranteed as 18K gold and platinum.
Origin: probably England, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent, all original with the likely exception of the swivel clasp. Dimensions: fob length, 1-5/8"; overall length (including Albert clasp), 5-3/4". Weight: 48.9 gr.
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Georges Lenfant was one of the most important Parisian jewelers of the 20th century, supplying pieces to Van Cleef, Cartier, Hermès and Mellerio. The French national prize for young jewelers is named for him and his son Jacques.
Origin: France, 1961. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2" x 1/2"; smaller faces, 13/32” x 13/32”. Weight: 18.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 3.06 cts.
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- Origin: France, ca. 1900.
- Condition: excellent; no damage to mesh.
- Dimensions: 1-11/16" x 1-11/16".
- Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 5.03 carats.
- Weight: 18.9 grams.
Origin: Italy, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 14-1/2"; length of center drop, 2-1/2". Weight: 22.8 grams.
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Origin: America, ca 1860. Condition: excellent, all original, one small pinpoint ding. Dimensions: bangle, 9/16" wide; buckle 1" wide; interior circumference, 6-3/4". Weight: 36.9 grams.
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Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw, before opening his own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but Oakes' mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.
Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stays at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.
Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 9/16" wide at crown. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 6.5 gr Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.54 cts.
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- Origin: America, ca. 1970.
- Condition: excellent.
- Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-5/8”.
- Weight: 57.3 grams.
- Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.14 carats.
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Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, clasp replaced, no enamel damage. Dimensions: pendant drop, 1-1/4” x 2-1/8”. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.56 cts.
Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.
- Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
- Condition: excellent
- Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
- Weight: 16.8 grams,
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Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.
Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.
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Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 29-1/4" long. Weight: 27.1 gr.
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Origin: America, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, no enamel loss; extremely minor abrasions to the gold edge of one cufflink from normal wear. Dimensions: larger faces, 3/4" x 19/32"; smaller faces, 1/2" x 3/8". Weight: 20.1 gr.
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Origin: France, ca. 1970s. Finger Size: 54/55 (European), 7-1/8 (American). Band Width: 1/2”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .32 carat. Weight: 15.7 grams.
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Fred Samuelson established his Paris boutique in 1936, and quickly became a favored jeweler to Marlene Dietrich and many other luminaries of the time. Today, there are a few boutiques worldwide, but Fred is still considered an understated luxury of quintessentially Parisian style.
- France, circa 1980
- 16" long; 3/16" wide
- 27.3 grams
- 1.1 carats approximate total diamond weight
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Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 5/8” x 3/4"; chain, 16” long. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.
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Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.
- Brazil, ca 1970
- Excellent condition
- 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
- Finger Size: 5-3/4
- 17.0 grams
- Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats
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Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.
NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.
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Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.
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Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.
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Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" x 5/8". Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 1.17 cts. Weight: 14.1 gr.
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The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”
- Origin: England, 1877
- Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
- Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
- Weight: 26.2 grams.
Jean ascended to the throne in 1350 at a time when France was suffering from the Black Death and was thirteen years into the Hundred Years’ War with England. He was captured by the Black Prince at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 and taken to the Tower of London. A treaty with King Edward III promised Jean his freedom if he could pay a ransom equal to three times France’s entire annual revenue. He was granted freedom in exchange for offering his son as a captive while he returned to France to raise the ransom. On December 5, 1360, he issued an order to create an entirely new gold coin to be used for the ransom. The word “franc” meant “freedom,” and thereafter French currency has always been known as the franc. Jean’s son escaped captivity in England in 1363, but in chivalric gesture, the King volunteered to take his place, saying “If good faith were banned from the Earth, it ought to find asylum in the hearts of kings.” He returned to England, where he died the following year.
- Origin: France, 1350-54
- Condition: excellent, sharp detail
- Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
- Weight: 8.2 grams
- Origin: France, ca. 1900
- Condition: excellent, all original
- Dimensions: 7/16” wide; 7-1/2” long
- Weight: 29.1 grams
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; ruby, .44 carat
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Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create gifts for visiting heads of state and their wives, including Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.
Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 7/8" diameter. Weight: 12.8 gr. Estimated Gemstone Weight: 5.8 cts.
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Origin: France or England, ca. 1800. Condition: very good, several of the hearts have minor roughnesses to the edges consistent with two centuries of wear. Length: 16-3/4". Weight: 19.0 gr.
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- America, ca. 1900.
- Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
- Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
- Weight: 26.9 grams.
- Origin: America, ca. 1880.
- Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
- Weight: 38.4 grams.
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Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.
Haroldo Burle Marx is well-known for jewels set with stones in "forma livre" (free-form) designs, but occasional pieces turn up with traditionally-cut stones. Some believe these designs were created in partnership with his brother, the noted landscape architect Roberto.
- Origin: Brazil, ca 1970
- Condition: excellent
- Dimensions: 1" wide at crown tapering 3/16" at the back of the shank
- Finger Size: 9
- Weight: 15.8 grams
- Approximate Gemstone Weight: 6.72 carats
- Origin: France, ca 1895
- Condition: excellent
- Dimensions: necklace length, 16-3/4"; central plaque, 1-7/8" wide, 1-1/4" high
- Weight: 21.9 grams
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Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.
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Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.
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Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.
Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.
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Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 17"; large plaques, 1" x 1/2". Weight: 17.2 gr.
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Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.
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Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.
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Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.
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Origin: America, ca 1988
Condition: excellent
Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 15/16"
Weight: 13.0 grams
Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.
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- Origin: France, ca. 1890
- Condition: excellent, sharp detail
- Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
- Weight: 22.8 grams
- Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats
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- Origin: France, ca 1890.
- Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.
- Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter.
- Weight: 8.4 grams.
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Known throughout his career as a costume designer and illustrator, Erté began designing jewelry in 1979. At the time of his death in 1990, he had produced just over 300 different designs, most of them made in rather small limited editions. Only 100 examples of the "La Dentelle-State I" cufflinks were made. The backs are signed "Erté", "CFA 14K", and "11/100".
- Origin: America, ca. 1980.
- Dimensions: 2 1/8" x 7/8".
- Weight: 20 Condition: excellent. Size: 2-1/8" x 7/8". Weight: 20.1 grams.
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: lapis, 4.8 carats; diamond, .42 carat.
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Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jewelry of Hollywood stars Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon.
- Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965.
- Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” x 1/2".
- Finger Size: 4 (can be enlarged).
- Condition: excellent; no abrasions; no dings.
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- Origin: France, ca 1890
- Condition: excellent; all original
- Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
- Weight: 6.5 grams
- Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.
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Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Weight: 41.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.
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Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.
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Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.
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- Origin: Switzerland, ca. 1950.
- Condition: excellent.
- Dimensions: 3/8” (10mm) wide.
- Weight: 22.7 grams.
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .05 carat; sapphire, 1.45 carats.
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- Origin: America, ca. 1900.
- Condition: excellent; one opal has minor crazing to the back surface.
- Length, 52-1/2" plus the pendant clasp as a single strand; 27" as a double strand; opals, 8mm diameter.
- Weight: 16.8 grams.
- Origin: America, ca. 1900
- Condition: excellent
- Dimensions: 12-3/4" long
- Weight: 37.9 grams
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Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.
- Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
- Condition: excellent
- Dimensions: 1” x 5/8”
- Weight: 15.8 grams
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Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 1” diameter. Weight: 4.6 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .30 carat.
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Origin: France, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 7/8" diameter; 1/4" wide. Weight: 17.9 grams.
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Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” wide; 7 -1/4” long. Weight: 11.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.
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Origin: America, 1989. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at front, tapering to 3/8" at back. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.
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Tritt specialized in antique jewelry, but supplemented her selection with an array of her own luxury designs, mostly made in France to her specifications. Her client roster included many luminaries, including the Duchess of Windsor. These cufflinks are unsigned, but the particular elongated figure-8 style of the hinged connectors was unique to Tritt. Tested and guaranteed 18K.
- France, circa 1935
- Condition: excellent; all original
- Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16" (20 x 24 mm)
- Weight: 14.9 grams
- Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.03 carats
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- Origin: France, ca. 1950.
- Condition: excellent.
- Dimensions: batons, 7/8" long.
- Weight: 10.7 grams.
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- Condition: no damage to stones or enamel; replaced wires
- Dimensions: 11/16" diameter; 1" long from top of wire
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .50 carat; diamond, .60 carat
- Weight: 5.8 grams
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Origin: America, ca. 1900. Dimensions: 3/4 x 3/8". Weight: 10.4 grams.
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Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 30-1/2” long. Weight: 18.3 grams.
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- Origin: America, ca. 1950.
- Dimensions: cufflink faces, 1/2” diameter; stud faces, 5/16” diameter.
- Weight: 13.3 grams.
- Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 53.48 carats.
- Condition: excellent; all original; excellent box.