Catalog: Estate Jewelry: Gold (1010)

A very fine 18K gold watch pin depicting a mythological griffin grasping a pearl in its mouth. The back-swept wings are bordered with rose cut diamonds set in silver. The detailing for the feathers and scales is superb, and even the reverse is realistically engraved. The design is deeply three-dimensional. Mythological subjects were particularly popular in at the beginning of the Art Nouveau period. The reverse is stamped with an 18K hallmark. The back also retains the original watch hook, clasp and pinstem. A bail could easily be added for wear as a pendant.

• Origin: Europe, ca 1880
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 1-1/4" diameter
• Weight: 17.5 grams

A rare pair of large 18K yellow gold Sputnik earrings by H Stern. The domes are bezel-set with round amethysts, citrines, aquamarines, peridot, green tourmalines, pink tourmalines, and garnets. The Sputnik design was created in the 1950s to highlight the range of colored gemstones available from Stern's Brazilian mines. It later came to be called "Sputnik" for its resemblance to the spiky Soviet satellite launched in 1957. Each piece has a unique appearance depending on the specific colors of the stones and their arrangement. These earrings are of a particularly large size. The earrings currently have posts, but those could be removed if desired. Marked for 18K.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1955. Condition: no dings or chips to stones. Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter. Weight: 16.6 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 16.34 cts.

A gorgeous and generously sized Art Nouveau 14K gold and diamond locket by Carter, Gough & Co. The cover features a maiden emerging from a bouquet of flowers. The choice of flowers in the bouquet sends a very specific hidden meaning in Victorian floral symbolism. The iris on the left means, "I have a message for you," and the jonquil on the right means, "I desire a return of affection." The flowers and the maiden's hair are studded with six old mine cut diamonds. The background is worked in a stippled pattern that contrasts beautifully with the hand-chased design. The back of the locket has a period three-letter monogram "MCR". The interior retains the original frame and is engraved "June 30, 1903." The interior is stamped with Carter, Gough's hallmark.

• America, 1903
• 1-1/2" diameter (excluding the bail and jump ring)
• 22.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .15 carat

A vintage 18K yellow gold and diamond ring in the "Tiffany Signature Series" created by Tiffany & Co. in 1992. The classic design is the form of three reeded bands studded with round brilliant-cut diamonds to create a sort of basketweave pattern. The diamonds are F/VVS1. The interior of the shank is marked "1992 Tiffany & Co. 750".

Tiffany Signature Series pieces were made with and without diamonds. Princess Diana purchased the earrings and bracelet, both without diamonds, in 1993.

Origin: America, 1992. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 6-1/4. Dimensions: 7/16" wide. Weight: 9.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

NOTE: We are offering a matching pair of earrings, as well (Item #1353096).

This exceptional verre eglomise rock crystal panel depicts a maiden in classical dress playing with a hound. She sits on a plinth in a clearing with cypress trees in the background. The scene is backed with grayish mother-of-pearl that seems to create a sky of swirling clouds. The reverse of the pendant is simply finished with pale grayish-blue silk. The plaque is simply mounted in an 18K yellow gold frame with a bail at the top. Verre eglomise was most often used in mourning jewelry, but nothing about the composition of this scene suggests it was created for memorial purposes. In fact, the unusually playful interaction of the dog and the maiden, the latter with a delicately painted smiling face, suggests just the opposite. The pendant was found in France, but the absence of a hallmark suggests England as a more likely place of origin. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

Origin: England or France, ca. 1800. Condition: excellent, a 1/8" flake on one edge of the front crystal and a couple of 1/8" faded areas to black border, all visible only with strong, raking light. Size: 1-3/8" x 1-3/4" (excluding bail).

A fascinating 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The amethyst chosen for this ring has distinct color zoning that creates an interesting interplay of deep and light purple coloring. The setting is finished in the florentine style typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior is stamped "750" for 18K. The ring is unsigned, but is definitely by Burle Marx.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of Indian. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1965
• Very good condition; very light wear consistent with age to the stone visible under 10x magnification
• Crown Dimensions: 1-3/16 long; 7/8" wide; 3/4" high.
• Shank tapers to 1/4" at the back
Finger Size: 5-1/4
• Weight: 23.4 grams.

A very large, heavy 18K gold Venetian Etruscan fob charm pendant set with oval red coral cabochons and pearls. The gold surface is heavily decorated with applied wirework and rosettes. The coral has intense, even color, and the pearls display good luster with a slightly creamy color that nicely accents the coral. The jump ring is marked “Italy 18K.” This is among the largest and heaviest Venetian Etruscan fob/charm/pendant we’ve had.

• Origin: Italy, ca. 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 15/16” x 2” long (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 26.5 grams

A 14K white gold ring set with a .77-carat round brilliant-cut diamond (I color, SI2 clarity, VG cut) surrounded by a horseshoe motif set with .25 carats of rose cut diamonds over a pierced gallery. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Finger Size: 5-3/4. Dimensions: crown, 1/2" x 5/8". Weight: 4.2 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: featured stone, .77 ct; mine cuts, .25 ct.

An impressive and beautifully-crafted large Victorian locket, each face carved from a single piece of onyx. The front cover is adorned with a gold floral spray studded with small natural seed pearls of the best quality. Seed pearls often have a chalky appearance but these have lovely luster and iridescence. The interior of the locket retains its original frame glass, as well as woven hair. The hair, of course, could easily be replaced with a portrait. The locket is suspended from an elegant bail, enameled in black and set with pearls. The bail has a shepherd’s hook closure so it will fit onto even the thickest of chains. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent; all original; no cracks or enamel damage. Dimensions: 1-7/16” x 1-7/8” (2-1/2” including bail). Weight: 34.2 gr.

An elegant Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K gold, each link is the form of a pansy enclosed in a scrolling border. The Victorian floriography (the “language of flowers”), the pansy represented the sentiment “think of me.” Jewels with pansies were often given as a romantic gesture or by the parents of a young woman upon her marriage. The bracelet is stamped with 18K fineness marks and an unidentified goldsmith’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7-7/8” long; 1/2" wide
• Weight: 16.4 grams

A very good French Art Nouveau 18K gold watch pin in the form of a mythological creature that appears to be a dragon with outspread feathered wings. The details are beautifully worked. The reverse is engraved to match the front. The creature grasps an antique cushion cut diamond in its jaws. The pin retains its original watch hook on the back. This piece could easily and inexpensively be transformed into a pendant with the additional of two pendant hooks at the wingtips. The back is marked with French 18K gold hallmarks, an illegible master goldsmith’s mark, and a design number indicating that the piece was made by a renowned maker of the period.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” x 1-1/8”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .10 carat
• Weight: 12.7 grams

An exquisite Art Nouveau enameled 14K yellow gold brooch depicting a peacock. The bird is worked in stunningly applied translucent enamels in shades of rose, blue, green, yellow, black and violet. The curling tail feathers are set with seed pearls and body is surrounded by an assymetrical frame set with seed pearls and suspending a small old European cut diamond and an oval brilliant-cut peridot. This is one of the very finest enameled bird brooches we’ve seen. The original clasp is stamped with Krementz’ hallmark and “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, all original. Size: 1” x 1-5/8”. Weight: 5.5 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .03 carat; peridot, .59 carat.

A striking Art Nouveau 18K gold and pearl necklace in the form of a pendant of chestnut leaves suspended from a cluster of chestnuts. The gold surfaces are entirely hand engraved with very fine detail. The pendant is set with a natural button pearl and suspends a second pearl at the bottom. The chain is enhanced with a series of tiny pearls, as well. Chestnut trees have traditionally represented fertility, but in Victorian flower language, came more to represent “luxury and abundance.” This style of necklace, called a “draperie” was a popular form among Parisian jewelers around 1900-10. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, as well as an illegible maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1905.
• Condition: excellent; sharp detail; all original.
• Dimensions: pendant, 1-1/8” wide x 3” long from the cluster of fruit to the suspended pearl; chain length, 15-7/8”.
• Weight: 10.9 grams.

A beautiful 18K gold fancy-link long chain necklace. The links are fashioned in an ornate Renaissance revival style. The chain can be worn at full length, or the clasp can be attached to an open link partway down the necklace and a pendant suspended from the final link. The necklace is marked twice with French 18K marks and an illegible maker’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 30-1/2” long. Weight: 18.3 grams.

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold stirrup (étrier) cufflinks set with calibre-cut blue sapphires designed by the Russian émigré jeweler Olga Tritt for sale at her Park Avenue boutique in New York. The arches of the cufflinks are set with rows calibre-cut intensely-colored blue sapphires.

Tritt specialized in antique jewelry, but supplemented her selection with an array of her own luxury designs, mostly made in France to her specifications. Her client roster included many luminaries, including the Duchess of Windsor. These cufflinks are unsigned, but the particular elongated figure-8 style of the hinged connectors was unique to Tritt. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• France, circa 1935
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: 3/4" x 15/16" (20 x 24 mm)
• Weight: 14.9 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 2.03 carats

A beautiful Art Nouveau bracelet worked in 18K yellow gold featuring oval blue sapphire cabochons accented with laurel wreath settings and alternating floral plaque links. The gold is very finely worked. The sapphires have medium dark, strong blue color (B6/5) and eye-clean clarity. They show no indications of heat treatment. The bracelet is completed with a concealed box clasp. The clasp is stamped with French gold hallmarks used outside Paris 1847-1919. The maker’s mark is partly obscured, but we have seen the mark before (the goldsmith must have used a damaged punch, because his marks are always partially missing) on expertly-made heavy gold items with intricate piercing, often set with cabochon gemstones, from around 1880-1900.

Origin: France, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/8” wide; 7 -1/4” long. Weight: 11.5 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.6 cts.

A vintage 18K yellow and white gold ring set with a .33 ct round brilliant cut diamond by Cartier. The colored gold is worked in a geometric design around the diamond. The diamond is graded G color, VS2 clarity. The ring has a substantial presence due to the width of the band. The interior is signed "Cartier", is marked "750", is dated "1989" and has the serial number "278QO.25".

Origin: America, 1989. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide at front, tapering to 3/8" at back. Finger Size: 5-1/2. Weight: 11.1 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .33 ct.

A superb pair of Victorian drop earrings featuring old European cut diamonds in buttercup settings surrounding oval mixed-cut rubies. The diamonds are separated with radiating lines of black taille d'epargne enamel. The rubies have a classic slightly purplish-red color with good intensity and eye-clean clarity. All rubies fluouresce in natural sunlight to some degree, and these rubies have a particularly strong reaction in bright sunlight, turning an intense red. The microscopic inclusions in the rubies indicate that they are unheated, and the probable source is Burma. The diamonds are F/VVS2. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1890
• Condition: no damage to stones or enamel; replaced wires
• Dimensions: 11/16" diameter; 1" long from top of wire
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, .50 carat; diamond, .60 carat
• Weight: 5.8 grams

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly opals in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The moonstones have bluish overtones with broad flashes of pinkish-orange. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1” x 5/8”
• Weight: 15.8 grams

A delightful Victorian reverse carved crystal pendant set in 12K yellow gold. The pendant depicts a Yorkshire terrier (Yorkie). He’s beautifully and deeply carved and painted in shades of brown and cream. The texture of his fur comes across very nicely in the design. The dog wears a blue ribbon around his neck and displays quite a lot of character with a bit of tongue sticking out to one side and one drooping ear. The crystal is backed in gold rather than the mother of pearl that typically appears in later crystals. The pendant is bordered with a double ropetwist border. Tested and guaranteed 12K gold.

Origin: England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no moisture damage. Size: 1-1/4” x 7/8” excluding bail.

An exquisite openwork pansy brooch in 18K yellow gold topped with platinum. The portions representing the outer edges of the petals are set with 48 rose cut and table cut diamonds (averaging J color and ranging from SI2 to I2 clarity), while the flower is centered with a half-carat old European cut diamond (J/SI2) in a bezel mounting. The pin has an overall sparkly appearance and looks stunning against dark fabric. The back of the setting is stamped with French gold and platinum marks, as well as with the master’s mark for the Bordeaux jeweler Dagens.

Origin: France, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent; original clasp and pinstem. Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 1-1/16”. Weight: 8.3 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.46 cts.

A heavy 14K gold curb link watch chain, finished with a movable t-bar, a dog clip, and a spring ring. The chain would be perfect to match up with one or more other heavy watch chains to create a unique layered look with multiple charms. Marked 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 12-3/4" long
• Weight: 37.9 grams

An elegant late Victorian or early Edwardian 14K yellow gold long chain with opal double-cabochon stations at regular intervals. The stations are carefully arranged so that the opals are alternately spaced whether the necklace is worn at full-length or doubled. The clasp can also be used to suspend a pendant. The opals are good quality with even play-of-color, mostly in the blue/green range with occasional bursts of orange/red. The clasp is marked "14K."

• Origin: America, ca. 1900.
• Condition: excellent; one opal has minor crazing to the back surface.
• Length, 52-1/2" plus the pendant clasp as a single strand; 27" as a double strand; opals, 8mm diameter.
• Weight: 16.8 grams.

A very heavy 18K yellow gold bracelet worked in the form of interlaced knots, the center of each set with an old mine cut diamond. The diamonds are set in silver in the traditional manner of the 19th century. The stones have good J/K color and SI1 clarity. At 8-1/4" long the bracelet is very generously sized. The box clasp is marked "Waler 18K".

Origin: America, ca. 1890. Condition: excellent. Weight: 41.0 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.0 ct.

An elegant Belle Epoque 18K yellow gold negligee pendant necklace, the old mine cut diamond drops formed as pansies. Pendant necklaces of this type, called negligees (from the French word for "careless"), were so called because of their assymetry. The subtle pansy design is achieved by combining three larger diamonds at the top of each cluster to represent larger petals, and two smaller petals at the bottoms. The knife edge bars suspending the clusters keeps the focus on the stones and create wonderful movement. The old mine cut diamonds (J/K color; SI1 clarity) have excellent fire for antique stones. The clasp and the pendant are stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca 1890
• Condition: excellent; all original
• Dimensions: pendant length, 1-5/8"; chain length, 17-3/8"
• Weight: 6.5 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats.

A fine modernist 18K yellow gold ring by Burle Marx set with an intricately carved aquamarine in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Haroldo Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of Brazilian gemstones, often fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The aquamarine’s deep, dusky blue color contrasts beautifully with the gold, which is worked with florentined engraving typical of Burle Marx’s pieces. The shape of the stone also creates a wonderful linearity that looks beautiful on the finger. The interior of the shank is fully signed and marked for 18K.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India. He was also a favorite jewelry of Hollywood stars Natalie Wood and Merle Oberon.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965.
• Dimensions: crown, 1-1/8” x 1/2".
• Finger Size: 4 (can be enlarged).
• Condition: excellent; no abrasions; no dings.

A stunning Art Nouveau 18K gold brooch featuring an enameled and engraved portrait of Pallas Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, horses and olives. Her beautifully engraved helmet is adorned with a small rose cut diamond. Her armor and the embroidery along the edges of her gown are also engraved. The quality of the painted enamel facial details and the background champleve enamel in royal blue is gorgeous. The edges of the medallion are enhanced with natural pearls. The back retains the original pinstem and c-clasp, both stamped with French 18K marks. A folding bail could easily be added to the piece can be worn as a pendant.

• Origin: France, ca 1890.
• Condition: excellent; all original; no enamel damage.
• Dimensions: 1-3/32" diameter.
• Weight: 8.4 grams.

A wonderful Victorian/Art Nouveau pendant and brooch in the form of a mythological griffin grasping a diamond in its jaws. The creature’s open-winged pose is somewhat unusual for this type of jewel, as they tend to be more curled up in a more circular position. The pose, however, makes for wear as a dramatic pendant hanging from the pendant loops on each wing. The back also has a removable fitting so it can also be worn as a brooch. And finally, there is a watch hook at the bottom that could suspend a watch or a dangling gemstone. The griffin is worked with in great detail and even the back is enhanced with engraved feathers and scales. The old mine cut diamond has good color and VS1 clarity. The pin stem is stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Dimensions: 2-3/4” x 1-3/8”
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Weight: 18.1 grams
• Approximate Diamond Weight: .33 carat

A lovely 18K yellow gold bracelet designed as floral plaques separated by bezel set blue sapphire cabochons. Each elegantly pierced gold plaque depicts a rose encircled by scrolls and flanked by additional flowers. The backs of the plaques are engraved in a matching motif. The high-domed cabochons have fine deep blue coloring and show no indications of heat treatment. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1890
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 9/16” wide; 7-3/8” long
• Weight: 22.8 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 3.12 carats

An elegant Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet comprising individual links fashioned as abstract bellflowers, each set with an oval cabochon rhodolite garnet. Each link is further enhanced with appliques to suggest leaves, tendrils and seed pods. The overall design is very much in the Jensen expression of Skonvirke. The rhodolite garnets have lovely purple coloring. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: possibly Denmark, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 3/4†wide; 8†long. Weight: 29.7 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 6.95 cts.

A wonderful Victorian 18K yellow gold curb link chain interrupted at regular intervals with bi-color ("watermelon") tourmaline beads. The chain is finished with a fantastic clasp in the form of a lady's hand grasping floral-engraved loop. At 39" in length, the necklace can be worn doubled or perhaps even tripled. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Ca. 1890. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 39" long. Weight: 67.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 215.0 carats.

An uncommon pair of large "X" earrings by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. One arm of each earring is worked in platinum and set with round brilliant diamonds (G/VS1). This design is uncommon in the large size and very difficult to find with diamonds. The earrings retain the original posts and omega clips. The earrings are marked by Tiffany, signed by Picasso and dated 1988.

Origin: America, ca 1988

Condition: excellent

Dimensions: 1-1/4" x 15/16"

Weight: 13.0 grams

Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .36 carat.

A stunning French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold necklace comprising three large and four small gold plaques ornately engraved in a pattern of daisies and foliage. The links are set off at either end with a fancy baton-link chain. The plaques are exquisitely detailed and even the backs are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the daisies—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. In Victorian flower symbolism, the daisy was used to communicate innocence, purity and loyal love. The necklace is delicate, yet has surprising weight because the floral plaques are solid. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible maker's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1895. Condition: excellent, sharp detail, all original. Dimensions: overall length, 17"; large plaques, 1" x 1/2". Weight: 17.2 gr.

A very fine Victorian 14K yellow gold chain necklace made of fancy open-work links with diamond plaque appliques alternating with reeded circular links. The reeded surfaces gift the gold a soft, shimmering appearance rather highly reflective. The large spring ring can be used simply as a clasp or to suspend and locket or pendant. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

Origin: America, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 20-1/2” long. Weight: 29.5 gr.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earrings with lapis lazuli inlay by Angela Cummings. The designer pioneered modern hardstone mosaic techniques when she was a lead designer at Tiffany & Co. She began working at Tiffany in 1967, but was not allowed to sign her own designs until 1974. These earrings are definitely her design, but are unsigned, indicating that they date from the period 1967-74. The earrings are marked “T&Co 18K”.

Origin: America, 1967-74. Size: 7/8” x 3/4". Weight: 15.6 grams.

A wonderful 18K yellow gold cocktail ring featuring a "forma livre" (free-form) green tourmaline by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx invented the technique of carving and tumbling forma livre stones in 1948, and the style became his signature. The tourmaline has a deep green color with just a tiny hint of blue undertones, and is set in a florentined finished typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed with Burle Marx's marks.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba or Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, and Prime Minister Indira Gandhi or India. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jewelry of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: crown, 1-1/4" long x 11/16" wide x 1/2" deep; shank tapering to 1/8". Finger Size: 5 (the signature is placed in a way that the ring can be sized up). Weight: 16.5 gr. Approximate Gemstone Weight: 26.0 cts.

A very attractive Retro bracelet worked in 18K yellow, rose and white gold. The design has the industrial look typical of French Retro pieces. The gold is strongly colored, so there is very good contrast in the design. The clasp is stamped with French 18K marks and an unidentified master goldsmith's mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1935. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 5/8" wide; 7-5/8" long. Weight: 46.0 gr.

A wonderful Victorian 14K gold fancy watch chain featuring large links that we’d now call “Gucci links” in rose gold, alternating with smaller connector links in a slightly more yellow shade. Each of the large links is pierced with a star motif and the edges are enhanced with a fluted and ribbed pattern. The smaller links are chased in a floral pattern. The chain is finished with a ring and t-bar closure. The chain has a very substantial, “chunky” appearance, but is of moderate weight and comfortable for regular wear. Tested and guaranteed 14K.

• Origin: America, ca. 1880.
• Dimensions: large link width, 13/32”; overall length, 18”.
• Weight: 38.4 grams.

A classic sporting bracelet featuring three reverse-carved Essex crystals depicting a fox and a pair of horses. The gold mountings are formed from snaffle bits, horseshoes, riding crops, saddle belts and stirrups. The Essex crystals are expertly carved and painted with fine depth. The reverse is stamped with 14K marks and the maker’s mark for Carter, Gough & Co.

• America, ca. 1900.
• Excellent condition; no water damage or scratches.
• Dimensions: 7 1/2” long; 15/16” maximum width.
• Weight: 26.9 grams.

An elegant 18K yellow gold ring set with a faceted amethyst by famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. The sculptural quality of the design is highlighted by the contrast of wire-brushed and polished surfaces surrounding the deep violet amethyst. The interior of the shank is fully signed "Burle Marx 18K" and has Brazilian hallmarks.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

Haroldo Burle Marx is well-known for jewels set with stones in "forma livre" (free-form) designs, but occasional pieces turn up with traditionally-cut stones. Some believe these designs were created in partnership with his brother, the noted landscape architect Roberto.

• Origin: Brazil, ca 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1" wide at crown tapering 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 9
• Weight: 15.8 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 6.72 carats

A very fine French Art Nouveau 18K yellow gold festoon necklace comprising three gold plaques exquisitely engraved in a pattern of roses and their foliage. The plaques are curved to create a "festoon" look, and are suspended from a gold chain set with natural seed pearls. The backs of the plaques are lightly engraved with a reverse image of the roses—a hidden luxury that speaks to the quality of the piece. Each plaque also includes stems with pronounced thorns, perhaps as a reminder of the selflessness of love. Victorian floriography adoped red roses to represent love from the myth of Aphrodite and Adonis. As she raced to the side of her fallen mortal lover, Aphrodite pricked her toe on the thorn of a white rose and her blood forever stained the flower red. The necklace is stamped with French 18K gold marks, and with an illegible maker's mark.

• Origin: France, ca 1895
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: necklace length, 16-3/4"; central plaque, 1-7/8" wide, 1-1/4" high
• Weight: 21.9 grams

A stunning Georgian 18K gold textured chain necklace suspending a graduated series of nineteen carved hardstone hearts. The colorful stones include lapis lazuli, moonstone, opal, carnelian, moss agate, porphyry, chrysoprase, banded agate, jasper and more. Stones such as these would have been mined in many different parts of the globe, and wearing a necklace of such "specimens" would have indicated wealth as well as a certain curiosity and intelligence about the world. The heart theme expressed the sentimental side of Georgian jewelry. The chain is entirely handmade and is fastened with the original barrel clasp decorated with beading in the Etruscan manner. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

Origin: France or England, ca. 1800. Condition: very good, several of the hearts have minor roughnesses to the edges consistent with two centuries of wear. Length: 16-3/4". Weight: 19.0 gr.

A 14K white gold pendant featuring a prong-set 1.04 carat diamond (H/I1). The diamond has very good cut and brilliance. The pendant is accompanied by an 18-3/4" white gold chain.

An exceptional pair of Victorian carved ivory and 9K yellow gold earrings. The earrings are fashioned as exquisitely detailed cherubs, each suspending three elongated drops. The drops are arranged in the typical girandole style with the central piece hanging lower than the outer elements. The cherubs are fully three-dimensional and the feathered carving on the backs is as fine as that on the front. The ivory has a very nice patina. The style and exceptional quality of carving indicates the ivories were likely carved in Italy, whereas the use of 9K gold suggests they were mounted as jewelry in England. Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter can be seen wearing an ivory cherub brooch quite similar to these in one of her portraits. The girandole style emerged in French jewelry in the early 1700s and remained popular throughout the century. The ornate style returned to popularity during the Rococo Revival around 1870. The wires are stamped with French import marks for 9K. Victorian ivory earrings of this quality are quite uncommon, and we were fortunate to acquire two exceptional pairs from the same source.

Origin: Italy/England, ca. 1870. Condition: excellent, all original, no cracking. Size: length from top of wire, 2-3/4”; length from top of cherub, 2-1/8”; width, 1-1/16”.

NOTE: This item cannot be shipped outside the United States or to California.

A fine Art Nouveau 14K yellow gold bracelet designed as a chain of daisies. Each flower is centered by a mine cut diamond. Each plaque is pierced to delineate individual flower petals and the back of each plqaue is engraved in a matching pattern. The reverse engraving is a technique sometimes seen on very high-end French jewels of the period, but rarely on American pieces. The diamonds have bright color (G/H) and SI1 to I1 clarity. The back of the clasp is engraved with the date March 3, 1910.

Origin: America, 1910. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Dimensions: 3/8" wide: 7-7/8" long. Weight: 19.8 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: .50 ct.

A very fine and moving 18K gold and enamel locket in loving memory of Francis Mary, Viscountess Forbes who died on Christmas Day, 1877. She married the Viscount Forbes, 26 years her senior when she was just 21 years old. She was predeceased by her husband, and though she never became a Countess, their son inherited the title Earl of Granard. The locket was likely made for her granddaughter-in-law, Beatrice Mills Forbes, an American heiress who was Viscountess Forbes at the time of Francis Mary’s death. Lady Forbes led a rather fascinating life, as Queen Victoria’s confidante and one of her longest-serving Women of the Bedchamber (1837-1874). Even in her later years, she remained an Extra Woman and was called to Court for special occasions.

The front of the locket is beautifully worked with a black enameled cypher surmounted by an Earl’s coronet against a bloomed gold finish. The back is similarly decorated with an engraved cypher and coronet. The interior features an area for a portrait on one side, and a glass compartment enclosing a twisted lock of Francis Mary’s hair on the other. The frame surrounding the hair is engraved “Francis Mary Viscountess Forbes/Whom the Lord loveth He chasteneth/b. 21st Oct. 1811/d. Christmas day 1877.”

• Origin: England, 1877
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage, dings, etc.
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-5/8” (2-1/4” with bail)
• Weight: 26.2 grams.

A classic coin pendant in a simple 18K gold frame, but featuring a spectacularly rare and beautiful “Franc a cheval” coin from the reign of Jean II “le Bon” (“the Good.”) The coin was minted in Paris for just a little more than three years, December 1360-April 64. The front of the coin depicts the king charging on horseback, wearing full armor and a fleur-de-lis crown and with his broadsword raised. The horse, too, is decked out in armor decorated with fleurs-de-lis. The image is surrounded by a Latin inscription translated as “Jean, by grace of God, King of the Franks.” The obverse features a cross surrounded by fleurs-de-lis, in turn surrounded by the Latin motto, “Christ vanquishes, Christ reigns, Christ commands.” The coin is 24K gold and is mounted in a non-invasive 18K frame. The frame probably dates to the mid-20th century and bears French 18K gold hallmarks. The pendant came from the family that owned the Medieval and Renaissance French coin bracelet in our collection.

Jean ascended to the throne in 1350 at a time when France was suffering from the Black Death and was thirteen years into the Hundred Years’ War with England. He was captured by the Black Prince at the Battle of Poitiers in 1356 and taken to the Tower of London. A treaty with King Edward III promised Jean his freedom if he could pay a ransom equal to three times France’s entire annual revenue. He was granted freedom in exchange for offering his son as a captive while he returned to France to raise the ransom. On December 5, 1360, he issued an order to create an entirely new gold coin to be used for the ransom. The word “franc” meant “freedom,” and thereafter French currency has always been known as the franc. Jean’s son escaped captivity in England in 1363, but in chivalric gesture, the King volunteered to take his place, saying “If good faith were banned from the Earth, it ought to find asylum in the hearts of kings.” He returned to England, where he died the following year.

• Origin: France, 1350-54
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 1-1/4” diameter (excluding bail and jump ring)
• Weight: 8.2 grams

An elegant modernist long chain necklace worked in 18K yellow gold and featuring black onyx and green nephrite jade beads. The onyx beads are carved in a melon motif, while the jade beads are left smooth. The jade has even, lightly-mottled color and good translucency. At 33”, the necklace is long enough to be worn at full length or doubled. The combination of strong colors with the yellow gold is very chic. The clasp is marked by an unidentified maker “Ste F”.

Origin: France, ca. 1965-70. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: onyx beads, 11.7mm diameter; nephrite beads, 8.1mm; overall length 33-1/4”. Weight: 43.6 gr.

A lovely 18K gold bracelet in the Louis XVI style, the links fashioned as floral and foliate wreaths alternately centered with old European cut diamonds and round cut rubies. The pierced design lends a light appearance despite the bracelet’s substantial weight. The clasp is stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; 7-1/2” long
• Weight: 29.1 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .24 carat; ruby, .44 carat

A very attractive 18K yellow gold ring set with an amethyst by the famed mid-century Brazilian designer Haroldo Burle Marx. Burle Marx is well-known for his free form designs, but his collaborations with his brother, the landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, had a much more linear, abstract feel as in this piece. The amethyst at the center is of the very finest quality, with intensely purple color and excellent clarity. The gold is completed with the finely worked florentined finish typical of Burle Marx's work. The interior of the shank is fully signed.

Burle Marx worked in his native Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. He was chosen by the Brazilian government to create state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Empress Nagako of Japan, Empress Farah Diba of Iran, Queen Margarethe of Denmark, Prime Minister Indira Gandhi of India, and many others. In Hollywood circles, he was a favored jeweler to Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Brazil, ca 1970
• Excellent condition
• 1-1/16" wide at crown, tapering to 3/16" at the back of the shank
• Finger Size: 5-3/4
• 17.0 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: 3.08 carats

A beautiful 18K white gold start pendant set with diamonds and sapphires from Chanel’s haute joaillerie “Comete” collection. Coco Chanel’s first jewelry designs were based on celestial themes and when the house re-entered the luxury jewelry business they reinvented many of her early designs. This star pendant features four round brilliant diamonds and three blue sapphires in different fancy cuts—square, marquise and pear. The diamonds are G color with VS1 clarity. The sapphires are B5/5 color and eye-clean clarity. The different shapes and apparently random arrangement of the gemstones was intended to mimic the placement of stars in the galaxies. The back of the pendant is signed “Chanel”, has the serial number “7E1232” and has appropriate 18K gold hallmarks. The chain clasp is also signed and marked. The original retail price of this pendant was $5,100.

Origin: France, ca. 2000. Condition: excellent. Size: pendant, 5/8” x 3/4"; chain, 16” long. Weight: 9.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .25 ct; sapphire, .25 ct.

An 18K yellow gold and diamond necklace for the French luxury jeweler Fred of Paris. The design features a series of bar-shaped chain links interrupted by stations collet-set with round brilliant diamonds of G color and VVS2 clarity. The necklace is 16" long and is designed to curve gently around the lower neck. This length is very versatile for either evening or day wear. The necklace is signed "Fred" and is fully hallmarked with French 18K marks.

Fred Samuelson established his Paris boutique in 1936, and quickly became a favored jeweler to Marlene Dietrich and many other luminaries of the time. Today, there are a few boutiques worldwide, but Fred is still considered an understated luxury of quintessentially Parisian style.

• France, circa 1980
• 16" long; 3/16" wide
• 27.3 grams
• 1.1 carats approximate total diamond weight

An elegant and exceptionally high quality pair of earclips in 18K yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires by A Péry et Cie. The earrings feature fields of pave-set round brilliant diamonds bisected by bands of rectangular cut blue sapphires. The diamonds are E color and VS2 clarity; the sapphires are medium-dark strong blue (B6/5) color and eye-clean clarity. Each earring is fully stamped with French 18K gold marks and is signed by A. Péry et Cie. The clips have holes, so posts could be added without disrupting the integrity of the earrings.

Péry worked as manufacturer for Van Cleef & Arpels, but also worked for Boivin, Mellerio and other important French jewelers. Péry was responsible for some of VCA most iconic 20th century designs including the Ludo bracelet and the zipper necklace. The Péry ateliers are now owned by VCA.

Origin: France, ca. 1980. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 14 x 24 mm (9/16 x 15/16 in). Weight: 17.4 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.5 ct; sapphire, 3.25 ct.

A fine Victorian 18K yellow gold fancy link long chain necklace. The chain comprises alternating large and small oval links, each inset with an ornate scrolling pattern with millgrained accents. The design is reminiscent of the stone tracery separating the panels in a Gothic stained glass window. Necklaces of this style are distinctly French and were popular throughout the Second Empire and into the Belle Epoque. The necklace is stamped with French 18K marks and an illegible goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 29-1/4" long. Weight: 27.1 gr.

A handsome 18K yellow gold ring by Cartier in the "Lanières" design, set with diamonds and rubies. The wide gold band is decorated in an engraved checkerboard pattern, with certain squares filled in with either a brilliant round cut diamond or a round cut ruby. The ring is set with stones on only one side, so it can be turned around and worn as an handsomely geometric wide gold band. The ring can be worn by either a man or woman. The diamonds are graded as F color, SI1 clarity; the rubies are of equally fine quality with good color saturation and minimal inclusions. The inside of the ring is signed “Cartier”, marked “750” for 18K, marked “54” for the European size (the ring actually measures a 55), and has the serial number “949696”.

Origin: France, ca. 1970s. Finger Size: 54/55 (European), 7-1/8 (American). Band Width: 1/2”. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .20 carat; ruby, .32 carat. Weight: 15.7 grams.

An elegant pair of 18K yellow gold earclips by Haroldo Burle Marx set with intricately carved jelly tourmalines in the “forma livre” (free form) style. Burle Marx was particularly known for his use of stones fashioned by carving or tumbling rather than faceting, a technique he invented in 1948. The tourmalines have greenish blueish overtones. The elongated shape of the stones, mirrored by the shape of the settings looks very good on the ear. The gold surfaces are worked in both the stippled and brushed textures often seen in Burle Marx jewels. Each earring is stamped with Burle Marx’ complete markings. Posts could be easily added to compliment the omega clips.

Burle Marx worked in Brazil, and his only international boutique was at the Watergate Hotel in Washington, DC. The Brazilian government commissioned him to make state gifts for Queen Elizabeth, Japan’s Empress Nagako, Iran’s Empress Farah Diba, Denmark’s Queen Margarethe, India’s Indira Gandhi, and many others. Among Hollywood royalty, he was a favorite of Merle Oberon and Natalie Wood.

• Origin: Brazil, ca. 1970
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 3/4”
• Weight: 16.8 grams,

A beautiful Art Nouveau pendant necklace featuring a drop centering an oval opal surrounded by a wreath of translucent green-enameled laurel leaves. Further enameling accents the bottom and top of the drop. The pendant also incorporates pearls that are echoed at intervals along the chain. The natural pearls along the chain alternate in shades of vivid, pale pink and bluish-white. The opal has fine play of color, mostly in the blue and green parts of the spectrum with some flashes of orange and red. The chain is constructed so the necklace can be worn at 15-1/2” or 14-1/2” lengths (it could easily be lengthened). The pendant is marked “14K”.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, clasp replaced, no enamel damage. Dimensions: pendant drop, 1-1/4” x 2-1/8”. Weight: 6.1 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: opal, 1.56 cts.

A very attractive vintage 14K yellow gold link bracelet, each link set with round brilliant cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are textured to resemble the tree bark. The diamonds are graded as I/SI1. The clasp is stamped with a French mark for imported 14K gold.

• Origin: America, ca. 1970.
• Condition: excellent.
• Dimensions: 13/16” x 7-5/8”.
• Weight: 57.3 grams.
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.14 carats.

An exceptional and extremely rare 14K yellow gold and green tourmaline ring by Edward Everett Oakes. The shank is fashioned as serrated leaves that gradually open to enclose a prong-set round brilliant-cut green tourmaline at the crown. The tourmaline is graded as medium dark, strong, lightly yellowish Green (slyG 6/6); excellent cut; and Type I eye-clean clarity.

Edward Everett Oakes (1891-1960) was perhaps the foremost Arts & Crafts jeweler in America. He was a member (and medallist) of the Boston Arts & Crafts Society, and became the first living artist to have a work acquired for the permanent collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He trained with Frank Gardner Hale and worked for three years with Josephine Hartwell Shaw, before opening his own studio in 1917. Oakes' work shows a certain similarity to both Hale and Shaw, but Oakes' mature style is noticeably original. Most of his pieces are unsigned, but can be identified based on their unique decorative motifs and construction techniques.

Oakes regularly visited Camp Deephaven and Camp Rockywold on Squam Lake in New Hampshire. The original owner of this ring purchased it directly from Oakes during one of her 68 consecutive annual summer stays at the camps. The purchaser will be supplied with a copy of a letter from the original owner's niece describing her aunt's purchases.

Origin: America, ca. 1930. Condition: excellent, has been sized. Size: 9/16" wide at crown. Finger Size: 6. Weight: 6.5 gr Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 2.54 cts.

An outstanding Victorian 14K yellow gold hinged bangle bracelet worked with a double buckle motif enhanced with opaque royal blue enamel and seed pearls. The buckle is further set off with a corset-lacing motif. The gold of the buckles is polished, but the bangle has the softer semi-matte finish of bloomed gold. The overall design is stately, yet not oversized. The interior is stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca 1860. Condition: excellent, all original, one small pinpoint ding. Dimensions: bangle, 9/16" wide; buckle 1" wide; interior circumference, 6-3/4". Weight: 36.9 grams.