Catalog (2449)

A stunning bombe-form ring, worked in 18K yellow gold and platinum. The center of the ring is set with 63 square cut blue sapphires invisibly-set into platinum, flanked on either side by a total of 62 round brilliant cut diamonds pave-set in gold. Mystery-setting, accomplished by cutting a thin groove into the girdle of each stone and then sliding it along a complex network of fine platinum wires, was invented jointly by Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier in the 1930s. Today, it remains one of the most technically difficult stone-setting techniques and is tackled by very few houses. The platinum and gold components were fashioned separately and then assembled with a screw mechanism after the sapphires and diamonds were set. The design of the mounting itself locks the stones in place. The sapphires are well-matched and are color-graded as dark, strong blue (B7/5) and overall clarity-graded as eye-clean. The diamonds are of similarly high quality, with H color and VS2 to SI1 clarity. The interior of the shank has a worn maker’s mark. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 7. Dimensions: shank tapers from 1/4" width at the back to 19/32” at the crown. Weight: 17.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: sapphire, 5.25 carats; diamond, 2.17 carats.

A superb modernist bracelet in 18K yellow gold set with multi-colored gemstones by Bruno Guidi. Guidi was the lead designer and chief goldsmith the the acclaimed Brazilian jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx for more than 30 years. Each piece was created entirely by hand starting from a piece of gold, without the aid of any molds or pre-made elements. In this bracelet, each of the ten links features a colorful cabochon gemstone native to Brazil—amethyst; citrine; moonstone; and blue, pink and green tourmaline. The links are individually hinged so the bracelet is flexible and comfortable. The clasp is stamped "Brazil 18J Bruno Guidi."

After Burle Marx's death in 1972, Bruno Guidi and his brother Flavio continued working for a few years, making many of the designs they had originally created for Burle Marx.

Origin: Brazil, ca. 1992. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1/2" wide; 6-1/2" long. Weight: 41.9 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 7.7 cts.

A magnificent vintage platinum brooch formed as a floral bouquet featuring three primary blossoms tied at the bottom with a ribbon, and set with a mix of old single cut, old Swiss cut, old European cut, old mine cut, early modern brilliant round cut and French cut diamonds and round brilliant cut sapphires. The center flower features a .83-carat, old mine cut diamond of fancy cognac color and SI2 clarity; surrounded by sapphires. A flower bud is represented just above by a prong-set .34-carat old European cut diamond of fancy light cognac color and VS2 clarity. Leaves are bead-set with mixed cut white diamonds, all in the E-G color range with VS1 to SI2 clarity. Berries are represented by collet-set blue sapphires. The sapphires display P2B zone 30 color (moderate purplish blue) on the Gem Dialogue scale and have VS clarity. The hinged double pinstem is worked in 14K white gold, but the body of the brooch is tested and guaranteed platinum.

The range of different diamond cuts in this brooch clearly indicates it was specially made to order for a customer using the diamonds already in her possession. Such commissioned pieces are often not fully hallmarked, hence the lack of a mark for platinum or a maker's mark. The quality of workmanship is superb.

The brooch is accompanied by a June 2008 written appraisal (GIA & NAJA) conforming to the above description and assigning a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: America, ca. 1950. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: 2" x 1-1/4". Weight: 16.3 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.84 carats (1.17 carats of fancy colored diamonds); sapphire, 2.1 carats.

A stunning Mikimoto 18K yellow gold ring set with a 10.50 mm South Sea Akoya pearl surrounded by curved rows of round brilliant cut diamonds. The pearl has white body color with slight rose overtones. The nacre has bright luster. The surface is free of blemishes. The diamonds are D/E color and VVS clarity, with good symmetry and polish. The quality of workmanship, materials and overall design are so obviously special, that the ring is immediately identifiable as Mikimoto. The interior of the shank is fully hallmarked for 18K gold and bears Mikimoto’s oyster shell mark. The ring is presented in its original box and is accompanied by its original Mikimoto grading certificate. It is also accompanied by a 2010 independent NAJA appraisal confirming the above information and stating a replacement value of $16,500.

Origin: Japan. Condition: excellent. Finger Size: 5 (could be enlarged with disturbing the marks). Size: crown, 3/4” wide; 9/16” high. Total Diamond Weight: 1.37 carats.

An imposing Victorian butterfly brooch of exceptional quality and grand dimensions, the fore- and hindwings studded with rose cut diamonds set in silver-topped 18K gold and bordered with oval cabochon rubies set in gold. The thorax is formed of a round opal and the abdomen is a large squarish cabochon pink tourmaline. The design is completed with diamond antennae and emerald eyes. The opal has excellent fire with a good deal of orange and green in the flashes of light. The rubies outlining the wings have medium-light color and are well-matched to the large tourmaline forming the butterfly’s abdomen. The back of the brooch shows masterful à jour work with well-finished piercing to allow light through the stones. The back also retains the original gold pinstem and c-clasp that can be removed with a gold screw assembly. The brooch most likely originally had a comb attachment so the butterfly could be worn in the hair. The brooch is stamped with French gold hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1875. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 2” x 2-7/8”. Weight: 27.2 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight (by estimation and formula): diamond, 2.39 cts; ruby, 14.26 cts; tourmaline, 6.87 cts; opal, .97 cts.

A stunning pair of lage Georgian or early Victorian transitional earrings worked in 18K gold and silver. The earrings, each in form of a convolvulus (morning glory) blossom feature a variety of antique cut diamonds, mostly cushion and mine cuts. The smallest stones are rose cuts. The diamonds are of excellent quality, mostly eye clean and with superb, warm sparkle as the earrings dangle freely. The expert craftsmanship that allowed the diamonds to be set very close together with little metal showing gives the earrings a dramatic appearance when being worn. Most of the diamonds are set “a jour” (open to the light at the back), but the largest center diamonds in the rosettes at the top of each earring are set in cut-down mountings which suggests the earrings were made in the transitional period between the Georgian and Victorian eras. The backs of the rosettes have a layer of 18K gold so the silver wouldn't tarnish the wearer's earlobes. The wires are 18K gold and are probably replacements of the originals.

• Origin: likely English or possibly French, ca 1830-40
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-1/2” x 11/16”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 6.16 carats
• Weight: 8.8 grams

An exquisite platinum and diamond brooch in the form of a turtle by Tiffany & Co. In the 1990’s, Tiffany created a small line of nature-themed jewels loosely based on antique pieces in its design archives. The turtle pin was one of the most luxurious pieces in the series. The domed back is pave-set with 90 2.5-point round brilliant cut diamonds and the legs and head are set with additional 28 1.5-point diamonds. The eyes are collet-set blue sapphires. The back has a pendant hook, so it can be worn suspended from a chain. The reverse is marked “1996 Tiffany & Co. PT950”. The original selling price was $15,750.

Origin: America, ca. 1996. Condition: mint. Size: 29/32” x 1-3/8”. Weight: 14.5 grams. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.67 carats.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum pendant in the form of a rose set with old mine cut, old European cut, single cut and pear cut diamonds. The design is delicately worked in a sort of stencil effect, the negative spaces between diamond-set areas appearing as the veins of leaves or the deeper recesses of the rose blossom. The center of the rose is set with a .96-ct pear shaped diamond, H/VVS2. The smaller diamonds are well-matched in the H range SI clarity. A diamond-set leaf-shaped bail completes the design. The mounting is stamped with European platinum marks.

Origin: Europe, possibly Poland, ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: 1-3/4" x 1-3/16". Weight: 9.4 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 4.6 cts (.96 ct pear).

Exceedingly rare custom-made sterling silver golf trophy by Shreve & Company, California's premier 19th century silversmiths. The trophy, in the form of wine ewer or pitcher and displaying the sinuous curves of the Art Nouveau style, is fainly reminiscent of some of Gorham's Martélé pieces. The body is decorated with a superb applied design cast in the form of a laurel wreath woven with golf clubs. The quality is breathtaking. Notice that one club is a putter, and the other is an wood. The body is raised on an assymetrically lobed foot decorated with applied thistle blossoms and foliage--reminding the viewer of golf's Scottish heritage. The ewer is finished with an exagerated curving handle. The trophy was never engraved. The bottom is marked "Shreve & Co./San Francisco/Sterling". This is a simply phenomenal piece of earlier California silver and a phenomenal piece of silver trophy art.

Origin: America, ca. 1900. Condition: excellent, a 1/2" flat ding on one side (could be professionally removed). Size: 12-3/4" tall. Weight: 941.0 grams.

An exquisite Art Deco platinum filigree ring set with a 1.14 carat old European cut diamond surrounded by caliber-cut onyx and coral in a sort of Moorish design. The diamond is graded as H color and SI1 clarity. All the stones are set in millgrained bezel settings. The surrounded coral has very saturated, even coloring that contrasts beautifully with the onyx and the sparkle of the diamond. Strong color contrast is especially associated with Art Deco jewels. The shank is set with three small diamonds to each side of the crown. The ring is completed with an ornately pierced gallery.

Origin: Ca. 1925. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: crown, 3/4" diameter. Finger Size: 7-3/4. Weight: 4.8 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.2 cts.

An extremely rare and very fine Imperial Russian gold and diamond anchor brooch by Viktor (Victor) Aarne. The anchor is surmounted with the Imperial Russian crown and the cypher of Czar Nicholas II is superimposed over the stem of the anchor. The brooch is set throughout with old mine and rose cut diamonds. The diamonds are set in silver over gold, as was typical of Russian jewels of the period. The quality of piercing and millgraining indicate hand fabrication. Certain portions of the design, notably the crossbar of the anchor, the horizontal element of the cyrillic letter "N" and the numerals representing "II" are worked only in yellow gold as a contrast to the surrounding surfaces. THe principal diamonds average J color and SI1 clarity. A jewel of this quality, bearing the Imperial cypher, would certainly have been given as a gift by the Imperial family. The pinstem is marked for 56 zlotniks (14K) and bears the workmaster's mark used by Johann Viktor ( Johan Victor) Aarne during his St. Petersburg period, 1891-1904.

Origin: Russia, 1891-1904. Dimensions: 52 x 27 mm (2-1/16" x 1-1/16"). Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.84 cts.

A stunning 18K yellow gold Retro necklace designed as a series a barbell-shaped links, interspersed at the center with a row of bezel-set old European cut diamonds. The links conceal a hidden stretch mechanism that allows the lower edge of the necklace to spread a bit so that it sits comfortably on the body without buckling or twisting. The diamonds are graded in the setting as J color, with clarity ranging from VS1 to I1 (mostly in the VS1 and VS 2 range). The necklace has extraordinary heft, but is very comfortable to wear. The clasp is stamped with French 18K hallmarks.

Origin: France, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 16†long; 5/8†wide. Weight: 128.6 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.50 cts.

A fabulous pair of mid-century 18K yellow gold and platinum earclips by Cartier set with brilliant round cut diamonds. The gold surfaces are cast in a rough texture that contrasts beautifully with the bright diamonds set in platinum. The diamonds, as expected of Cartier, are extremely fine quality (E color/VVS2 clarity). French jewelry became more flamboyant in the 1960s, as wartime restrictions eased. Most importantly, jewels were designed for the "modern woman" who wanted to transition her look seamlessly from day to evening. When worn, these flame-like earrings cradle the entire earlobe and rise up gently along the back side of the lobe. Each earring bears French hallmarks and is signed "Cartier."

• Origin: France, 1960s
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 5/8" x 1-1/4"
• Weight: 12.3 grams
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 1.5 carats

One of the nicest Retro buckle bracelets we’ve seen, this 18K gold and platinum example comprises a strap of honeycomb-shaped links set off with a large buckle pave-set with rose cut and single cut diamonds in platinum. The buckle’s tongue, frame and loop are set with calibre cut synthetic rubies. This bracelet has a particularly sculptural appearance. Rubies from the Retro period are nearly always synthetics because the usual shipping lanes from the gem mines of southeast Asia were cut off because of World War II. The bracelet bears French marks for 18K and platinum.

• Circa 1940
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions 7” circumference; strap, 1” wide; buckle, 1-1/2” wide
• Weight: 90.7 grams
• Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: ruby, 4.5 carats; diamond, 1.0 carat

A stunning mid-century 18K yellow gold strap (or buckle or jarretière) bracelet enhanced with diamonds set in platinum by the Parisian jeweler Sabban & Azoulay. The strap is worked in an ornately constructed open weave design called “maille polonaise” or “Polish mesh” and is finished in a contrasting braided pattern. The strap ends with a row of graduated diamonds mounted in a v-shaped platinum setting finished with foxtail fringe. The clasp features two swirled gold clips, each with a triple row of diamond set in platinum. Unlike most strap bracelets, this example is constructed without closure holes so it is highly customizable to any wrist size. The diamonds are I color and VS1 clarity. The bracelet is stamped with the master goldsmith’s mark for Sabban & Azoulay and with 18K and platinum marks.

• Origin: France, 1950
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: strap width, 1-1/16”; clasp width, 1-5/8”; length excluding fringe, 9-1/4”; length including fringe, 10-1/4”
• Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 2.0 carats
Weight: 97.4 grams

A large Edwardian puffed heart pendant/brooch worked in finely pierced platinum and set with nearly six carats of old European cut diamonds. Most Edwardian hearts are somewhat smaller than this generously-sized example. The design depicts a central blossom surrounded by scrolls around the edge of the heart. The center diamond is .60 carat, L color and SI2 clarity. The remaining 36 diamonds, totaling approximately 5.27 carats, are I/J color and SI1-I1 clarity. The back of the heart has a removable 14K yellow gold brooch fitting, as well as a platinum folding bail, so the piece can be worth as either a pendant or brooch. This fitting is very distinctive, and we have see puffed heart brooches of this sort signed Tiffany & Co. Tested and guaranteed platinum.

Origin: America, ca. 1910. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 35 x 35 mm (1-3/8 x 1-3/8 in). Weight: 21.2 gr. Approximate Total Diamond Weight: 5.87 cts.

A stunning early Victorian snake necklace in 18K gold. The body is worked in a graduated series of scaled links terminating in an ornate emerald- and garnet-set head suspending an emerald-set foliate drop. The construction of the snake’s body is very flexible and feels silky like a true snake. The ornate head with repoussé and chased decoration is more fanciful and resembles a Chinese dragon. The eyes are set with bright garnet cabochons and the head features a row of collet-set emerald cut emeralds. The stones have fine bluish green coloring. The head suspends a drop in the form of leafy twigs set with additional emeralds. A box clasp is cleverly hidden in the head for a seamless appearance when being worn. Following Prince Albert’s proposal to Queen Victoria with a snake ring in 1839, a snake grasping its own tail came to represent the seamlessness or eternity of love and became wildly popular in jewelry. The necklace is presented in its original burgundy velvet, silk and leather fitted case. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold.

• Origin: England, ca 1840
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: overall length, 19-1/4”; length when clasped, 16-1/2”; drop length, 1-1/4”
• Weight: 32.5 grams
• Approximate Total Emerald Weight: 3.77 carats

Fabulous 1960's David Webb seven-strand emerald bead torsade necklace finished with an 18K yellow gold clasp featuring a cushion-shaped rock crystal plaque centering a oval cabochon emerald flanked at the top and bottom with round brilliant-cut diamonds. This design is so evocative of the classic chunky Webb style, and the workmanship is of the finest quality. The diamonds are F color, VVS2 clarity. The 305 carats of fully-faceted emerald beads are fully faceted and are beautifully matched to the 27.28-carat cabochon emerald in the clasp. The emeralds, graded as "medium, moderately-strong, slightly yellowish green" (slyG 4/4), have a very pleasing and lively appearance. The clasp is signed "Webb" and is marked "18K".

When worn with the clasp, the necklace can be worn with the clasp at the front, back or to the side (our favorite). The torsade may also be worn without the clasp. For an even simpler, more modern look, the clasp may be threaded on a black silk cord as a pendant.

Origin: America, ca. 1965. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: overall length, 17-5/8"; clasp, 1-3/8" x 1-3/16". Weight: clasp, 26.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, 1.16 carats; emerald, 332.28 carats.