Catalog (2449)

A lovely late Victorian 18K gold locket enhanced with ornate pierced arabesques and pearl-studded laurel wreaths. The pearls have particularly nice color and luster. The cover opens to reveal a glass-enclosed compartment for a portrait or other keepsake. A small piece of cloth soaked in perfume could have been added behind the pierced cover to provide a bit of relief from the smelly Parisian streets of the 1800s. The original bail is also set with seed pearls. Stamped with French 18K gold marks.

• Origin: France, ca. 1880
• Condition: excellent; a small ding on the back cover (more visible from the inside of the locket than the outside
• Dimensions: 1-1/16” x 2” (2-3/8” including the bail)
• Weight: 15.2 grams

A lovely mid-19th century locket worked in 18K yellow gold set with rubies and natural seed pearls. The setting is enhanced with geometric appliques, engine-turned engraving, rope twists, and a beautifully fashioned bow concealing the bail. The rubies have very good color and are unheated. The locket retains its original reeded jump ring, as well. The back is decorated with engine-turned engraving. The interior retains the original gold frame and glass cover. Faintly marked with French 18K gold marks and a maker’s mark.

• Origin: France, ca. 1860
• Condition: excellent, all original
• Dimensions: 1” x 2-1/16” (including jump ring)
• Approximate Total Ruby Weight: .21 carat
• Weight: 14.6 grams

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. set with square cut sapphires. The cufflinks are fashioned in a sort of modified belt buckle motif. The sapphires have very good uniform color and show no indication of heat treatment. The backs are stamped Tiffany & Co. and also have the manufacturing jeweler’s mark for Larter.

• Origin: America, ca. 1940
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 9/16” x 11/16”
• Weight: 13.2 grams
• Approximate Total Sapphire Weight: 1.0 carat

A handsome pair of French Art Deco cufflinks, the faces worked in platinum centering sugarloaf cabochons of moonstone surrounded by rose cut diamonds. The moonstones have matte finish more often used with rock crystal, and the underlying, bright, billowy adularescence creates a very attractive effect. At some point, 18K white gold backs and connecting chains were added. Though there are no maker's marks to substantiate it, the overall quality of design and execution suggests an important maker such as Cartier.

Origin: France, ca. 1915. Condition: faces, excellent; replaced connecting chains and backs. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" x 1/2". Weight: 7.0 grams. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: moonstone, 5.8 cts; diamond, .60 cts.

A very desirable and rare pair of 18K yellow gold and seashell double-sided cufflinks by de Grisogono, one of the world's most creative high-end jewelers. These cufflinks feature beautiful small seashells banded in brown and ivory simply set on gold backgrounds. The faces are joined by chains. The backs of the cufflinks are marked for 18K, are dated for 1995, and are also stamped with de Grisogono's trademark and signature.

Established in 1993, de Grisogono quickly took the jewelry world by storm and its pieces are now coveted along those from the most luxurious jewelry makers in the world. The firm designs many pieces in animal themes, and is particularly well known for its range of cufflinks.

Origin: Switzerland, 1995. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: larger faces, 11/16" x 7/16".

A superb pair of bronze candlesticks from the Jockey Club de Paris. The candlesticks’ trefoil bases are decorated with riding equipment and tackle interspersed with the rosettes awarded to race winners. The edges of the bases are finished with borders that suggest horseshoes. Slender columns rise to a central element featuring three fully three-dimension horseheads capped by a spiraling ribbon engraved “Jockey Club”. Shields bearing coats of arms decorate the candle sockets.

Founded in 1833 ostensibly to promote horse racing, the club was in fact the most exclusive Anglos-French social club in France and among the most prestigious in the world. With the Emperor’s half-brother serving as president, the membership in the 19th century was strictly limited to 297 gentlemen and included the reigning kings of England, Belgium and the Netherlands.

Origin: France, ca. 1880. Condition: excellent, sharp detail. Size: 8-3/4” tall.

A heavy and finely made pair of 18K yellow gold cufflinks in the doorknocker style. The faces are attached with solid curved connectors to flip backs in a Moorish-inspired openwork arabesque pattern. The curved connectors cause the cufflinks to lie very flat against the cuff (despite their weight) for a really elegant appearance. The doorknocker motif has been a recurring element in French jewelry since Cartier introduced it during the Art Deco era. The early 1970s saw a resurgence of the motif in pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and other important houses. The cufflinks are fully stamped with French 18K gold hallmarks and bear an unidentified master goldsmith’s mark.

Origin: France, ca. 1970. Condition: excellent, all original. Size: front faces, 11/16” x 11/16”; back faces, 1/2" x 1/2”. Weight: 18.7 grams.

A fine pair of double baton cufflinks in 18K yellow gold. Each of the front faces is enhanced with a milgrained platinum band set with single-cut diamonds flanked on either side by square cut rubies. The slightly smaller back faces have a band of platinum-set diamonds, but without rubies. The batons are joined by chain connectors. Tested and guaranteed 18K gold and platinum.

Ca. 1930. Condition: excellent. Size: larger faces, 3/4" long. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: diamond, .28 ct; ruby, 1.18 ct. Weight: 10.5 grams.

A fine pair of 14K yellow gold cufflinks, the faces shaped as a convex curve of gold flanked on either side by square cut natural rubies. The superbly-matched rubies have excellent color and clarity, with no indications of heat or other treatment. The nature of the microscopic inclusions suggests Burma as the region of origin. We have seen a duplicate pair of these cufflinks, except set with sapphires, that were signed "Cartier NY". Cartier's New York store retailed jewelry made by various manufacturers such as Larter and Krementz. Sometimes they were marked with Cartier's retailer mark and sometimes not. Stamped "14K".

Origin: America, ca. 1940. Condition: excellent, all original. Dimensions: 17/32" x 3/4". Weight: 9.0 gr. Approximate Total Gemstone Weight: 1.92 cts.

A stunning enameled 14K yellow gold pendant/brooch and matching earrings by Krementz. The flowers and leaves are expertly worked in the iridescent translucent enamel characteristic of the best pieces from Newark. The violets are centered with small pearls. The pendant/brooch is stamped with Krementz' 14K mark.

• Origin: America, ca. 1915
• Condition: excellent, no enamel damage
• Dimensions: brooch, 1-7/16" x 1-7/16"; earrings, 1-3/8" long from top of wire x 3/4". Weight: pendant/brooch, 9.8 gr; earrings, 6.0 gr

A very nice late Victorian hinged bangle bracelet worked in a pierced scrolling design. The front features a row of three square cabochon rhodolite garnets set diagonally. The rhodolites have a lovely purplish hue that distinguishes them from their more common all reddish-brown garnet cousins. The bangle is fairly wide, but the piercing gives it an elegant lightness. The clasp is marked “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 7/16” wide; inner circumference, 7-1/4”
• Approximate Total Rhodolite Garnet Weight: 3.3 carats
• Weight: 23.8 grams

A heavy pair of mid-century double-sided cufflinks, the faces woven from gold rope. The overall look is similar to the Parisian work of Georges Lenfant. The back faces are smaller for ease in putting them through the cuff. The faces are joined by figure-8 connectors stamped “14K.”

• Origin: America, ca. 1965
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: larger faces, 1/2” x 1/2" x 1/2”; smaller faces 3/8” x 3/8” x 3/8”
• Weight: 23.4 grams

A beautifully detailed 18K gold tombstone-shaped pendant dedicated to St. George. The front shows George on horseback killing the dragon with his spear. The sun is depicted in the background with a glowing red ruby cabochon. The reverse depicts a fishing boat carrying Jesus and several disciples across the stormy Sea of Galilee, with the Latin motto “In Tempestate Securitas” (“safety in the storm”). St. George medallions do not always include the ship imagery, but when it’s there, the piece was intended to protect against the perils at sea. Generally, St. George is the patron saint of knights, soldiers, scouts, fencers, and archers, but he apparently also had a knack with the plague, leprosy, and venomous snakes.

• Origin: France, ca. 1900
• Condition: excellent, sharp detail
• Dimensions: 15/16” x 1-1/16” (excluding jump ring)
• Weight: 14.4 grams
• Approximate Gemstone Weight: .05 carat.

Set of 12 extraordinarily rare sterling silver lobster forks by Puiforcat. Both the handles and the blades are silver and are fully hallmarked with the 1st standard mark, the maker's mark and the town mark. The handles are simply decorated with acanthus leaves and beading. France, circa 1900. Excellent condition; no monogram. Size: 6-5/8" long.

Superb and extremely rare silverplated cocktail shaker in the "Ile de France" pattern by Meriden Britannia Plate Co. This is one of the most desirable of the high style Art Deco shakers. The ocean liner "Ile de France" was launched in 1926--not as the largest ship afloat, but intentionally as the most elegant ship in the world. This shaker was intended to celebrate that achievement and took its streamlined design elements from the ship itself. The pour spout protrudes from the side of the shaker at an angle and is strongly suggestive of the liner's angled bow. The shaker is severe in its decoration, using only stepped concentric rings to relieve the plain surfaces. The angular handle and cap are carved from strongly figured rosewood. The bottom of the shaker is marked with the pattern name and Meriden's marks.

Origin: America, 1927. Condition: excellent, extremely light surface wear to plating and a little bit of roughness are the edges of the pouring spout. Size: 9" tall.

A wonderful and very rare vintage 14K gold charm depicting a golf course under a glass cover. The clubhouse is at the top and the 18th hole is at the bottom. In between, there’s a sand trap and water hazard. There’s also a small ball bearing and just like the old-fashioned kids’ game, the idea is to gently manipulate the charm to get the ball to drop into the 18th hole cup while avoiding the sand trap and water hazard. The details are highlighted with colored enamels. But most charming of all is the engraved inscription on the reverse: “April 15, 1950 to April 15, 1975 25 years of playing a ‘round’ with you. Love Joe” The rim is marked with Dankner’s hallmark.

• Origin: America, 1975
• Condition: excellent, no enamel loss or dings
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” diameter (excluding bail).
• Weight: 18.4 grams

A large Etruscan style 18K gold fob charm an a crown form, set with emerald and round cut citrines. The gold surfaces are decorated with twisted wire and rosettes, and the lower portion has a Florentine finish with engraved details. Tested and guaranteed 18K.

• Origin: Italy, ca, 1955
• Condition: excellent
• Dimensions: 1-3/8” x 1-3/16” x 1-3/8” (excluding jump ring)
• Approximate Total Citrine Weight: 37.4 carats
• Weight: 22.6 grams

A handsome pair of 18K yellow gold and lapis lazuli cufflinks from the "Bvlgari Bvlgari" collection by Bvlgari. The faces are set with round lapis lazuli plaques surrounded by a gold border engraved with the jeweler's exclusive logo. This design was made with several stones, including onyx and mother-of-pearl, but lapis is the most difficult to find. The cufflinks are finished with toggle backs. Each is marked "750" for 18K gold and with Bvlgari's "2337AL" hallmark.

Origin, Italy, ca. 1990. Condition: excellent. Dimensions: faces, 1/2" diameter. Weight: 10.6 gr.